Beauty Aids

Section IV Beauty Aids

55

56

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

A H A - C l a r i - f v i n q Face Mask Formula P r o f i l e : Veegum F i s used i n t h i s f a c e mask. T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s and t a k e s a d v a n t a g e o f t h e a b s o r b i n g and c l e a n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f p u r i f i e d B e n t o n i t e . T h i s f o r m u l a c o n t a i n s humecta n t s t h a t w i i l i m p r o v e t h e r e s i d u a l s k i n f e e l . The s u r f a c t a n t a i d s i n t h e r i n s a b i l i t y o f t h e d r i e d mask.

&.?2Ce_d_l:.e.n& 5.:

wto/, 44.75 7.0

B: G l y c e r i n B u t y l ene G1 y c o l Vancl ay ( K a o l i n ) T a l c ( C o s m e t i c Grade) Vanseal NALS-30 (Sodium L a u r o y l S a r c o s i n a t e )

5.0 3.0 20.0

A:

Water Veegum F (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e )

C:

Preservative

D:

Glycolic Acid

E:

Fragrance

5.0 5.0 qs

7.0

qs

F: Triethanolamine

C i t r i c Acid

3.25

A d j u s t p H t o 3.7t-0.2

cis

Procedure: S t e p 1 : S i f t Veegum F i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n w a t e r . Veegum F w i l l need a p p r o x i m a t e l y 60 m i n u t e s f o r h y d r a t i o n u s i n g a homogenizer o r up t o 3 h o u r s u s i n g a p r o p m i x e r . A d d i t i o n a l e n e r g y , such as an i n c r e a s e i n m i x i n g i n t e n s i t y o r w a t e r tempe r a t u r e , w i l l reduce h y d r a t i o n t i m e . The a d d i t i o n o f any o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum F and w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d b y t h e Magnesi um A 1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e , S t e p 2 : Add r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s l i s t e d i n P a r t B. S t e p 3 : Add P a r t C - P r e s e r v a t i v e . S t e p 4 : Add P a r t D - A H A - G l y c o l i c A c i d . S t e p 5 : Add P a r t E - F r a g r n c e . S t e p 6 : A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 7 w i t h P a r t F . Product S e c i f i c a t i o n s : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LVT D V I I S p i n d l e #TF @ 0.3 RPM:

1,000,OOOt100,000 cps

pH: 3.5-3.9 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e p r o d u c t t h a t passes 3 month s t a b i l i t y t e s t i n g a t R T , 5 C , 38C, 5 0 C and 3 c y c l e F / T .

SOURCE:

R.T.

Vanderbilt Co.,

I n c , : Formula

No. 471

Beauty Aids

Aloe Vera G e l M o i s t u r i z e r T h i s c l e a r a l o e Vera g e l , t h i c k e n e d w i t h C a r b o p o l ETO 2020, i s an e x c e l l e n t g e l f o r s o o t h i n g s u n b u r n and o t h e r s k i n i r r i t a t i o n s and may p r o m o t e h e a l i n g . I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/Carbopol ETO 2020 DMOM H y d a n t o i n / G l y d a n t Sodium H y d r o x i d e (18%) Part B: Dei o n i zed Water D i m e t h i cone Cop01 yo1 Wax/Si 1 wax WS D i s o d i u m EOTA/Versene NA A l o e Vera Gel ( 4 0 : 1 ) / A l o e Vera Gel DC 40 Sodium H y d r o x i d e (18%) O & C Green No. 8 ( 1 . 0 % ) D&C Green No. 5 ( 0 . 1 % )

wts/, 88.20 0.80 0.30 0.60 5.00 1 .oo 0.20 2.50 1.00 0,20 0.20

P r o p e r t i es : Appearance: T h i c k , b r i 11 i a n t g r e e n g e l pH: 7 . 0 - 7 . 5 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 45,000-60,000 C l a r i t y ( I T ) : 75-82 Preparation Procedure: P a r t A: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l E T D 2020 p o l y m e r i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r (20-5OC). M i x u n t i l p o l y m e r i s d i s p e r s e d . 2 . Add G l y d a n t . 3 . P a r t i a l l y n e u t r a l i z e C a r b o p o l and w a t e r m i x t u r e w i t h NaOH M i x u n t i l smooth. Part 8: 1 . I n a s i d e v e s s e l , h e a t w a t e r t o 5 0 - 5 5 C , add S i l w a x WS ( p r e m e l t ) . Mix u n t i l w e l l dispersed. 2 . D i s s o l v e d i s o d i u m EDTA i n m i x t u r e . 3 , Add a l o e ( 4 0 : l ) t o m i x t u r e . 4 . Add NaOH (18%) t o m i x t u r e . 5 . When m i x t u r e i s u n i f o r m , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x u n t i l uniform. 6 . Add d e s i r e d c o l o r . 7 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e (18%) f o r optimum c l a r i t y .

SOURCE: B . F , Goodrich C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n COO62

57

58

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Amohoteric Facial Cleanser Insredients: Wt% Water 85.95 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10 Citric Acid (25% Solution) to pH 6.0 Dimethicone Propyl-PG Betaine (Abil B 9950) 1.25 Caprylamido/Capramidopropyl Betaine (Tego Betaine 810) 7.50 Propylene Glycol 2.00 Butylene Glycol 2.00 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Tegosoft GC) 0.75 Sodium Lactate (and) Sodium PCA (and) Glycine (and) Fructose (and) Urea (and) Niacinamide (and) Inositol (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Lactic Acid (Lactil) 0.45 Preservatives Q.S. Color Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: Mix ingredients in order given. SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulation O/W-Moisturizins Milk Raw Materials: A : Hostaphat KL 340 N (Trilaureth-4 Phosphate) Hostacerin DGS (Polyglyceryl-2 PEG-4 Stearate) Mineral oil, low viscosity Cetiol V (Decyl Oleate) Walnut oil Isopropyl isostearate Antioxidant B: Carbopol 980 (Carbomer C: Aquamollin BC pdr.h.c. (Ethylene Diamine Tetraacetic Acid Sodium Sa t) Citric acid (10%) Glycerin Caustic soda solution (10%) Water Preservative D: Collagen KD Fragrance Procedure: 1. Melt A at ca. 7OC, then add B. 2 . Heat C to ca. 70C. 3. Stir 2 into 1 and stir until cool. 4. At ca. 35C add the components of D to 3 . 5 . Homogenize the emulsion. SOURCE: Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft: Formula A VI/3015

WtO

1.00 4.00

3.00 4.00 4.00 4.00

q.s.

0.30

0.10 0.25 3.00

1.20

69.85

q.s.

5.00 0.30

Beauty Aids

59

Anhydrous Deep P e n e t r a t i n g V i t a m i n Gel F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : L i g h t , smooth, and q u i c k p e n e t r a t i n g b e s t d e s c r i b e s t h i s g e l . Use o f t h i s g e l w i l l d i m i n i s h t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g by c o n d i t i o n i n g and t r e a t i n g t h e s k i n w i t h a n t i - i n f l a m m a t o r y a g e n t s . T h e a c t i v i t y comes f r o m p h y t o s t e r o l and b i o f l a v o n i d e s i n D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax. T h i s c l a s s o f c h e m i c a l s i s a l s o a s t r o n g a n t i - o x i d a n t w h i c h w i l l scavenge f r e e r a d i c a l t h e r e b y p r e v e n t i n g p o t e n t i a l premature aging.

wt%

Raw M a t e r ia1 s : S i l i c o n e O i l 556 I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e F i t o d e r m - V e g e t a l Squalane Hexanedi o l Behenyl Beeswax R i c e Bran O i 1 D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax

56.0 5.0 10.0 14.0 2.0 10.0

Vitamin A Palmitate Vitamin E K80-D22

0.5 0.5 2.0

Procedure: M e l t and m i x a l l components t o 7 5 C , i n t o container.

c o o l t o 60C and pour

A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : D i f f e r e n t o i l s may b e used, t h e g e l c o n s i s t e n c y can b e r e g u l a t e d b y c h a n g i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f K80-D22 a c c o r d i n g t o the desired r e s u l t .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Gel w i t h T h i o s o m e m

Raw M a t e r i a1 s : a ) H i s p a g e l 200 K e l t r o l , 1% aqueous s o l u t i o n Water, d i s t i 1 l e d Phenoni p C e t i o l J 600

b ) Thiosome ( P )

Q 20 I 0 0

30.00

40.70

0.30

4.00

5.00

Manufacture: a ) M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e ; b) S t i r i n . Perfume

SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r , K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: F o r m u l a

60

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

B l a c k s t a r E y e Shadow I N C I N a m e / T r a d e Name: Phase A , Talc/Supra A Lithium Stearate K a o l i n 2457 Calcium S i l i c a t e / M i c r o c e l E B i s m u t h O x y c h l o r i d e / B i r o n B-50 M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben

Wt%

25.70 2.50

5.00 0.50

3.00 0.20 0.10

Phase B : I r o n Oxides (and) Mica/Colorona B ackstar Colors

so. 0 0

Phase C : M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l Amerchol L-101 11.00 Lanolin Alcohol/Super Hartolan 1.oo White Petrolatum 1.oo Procedure: C o m b i n e Phase A . P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i l l , p a s s i n g t w i c e t h r o u g h a 0 , 0 2 7 " h e r r i n g b o n e s c r e e n . Add P h a s e B w i t h g e n t l e agitation C o m b i n e P h a s e C. H e a t t o 7 0 C . S p r a y o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g b u l k . Pass e n t i r e b a t c h t h r o u g h a jump gap, F o r m u l a AS1 - 3 E y e Shadow w i t h T i m i r o n MP-60,

MP-65

I N C I Name/Tr_ade Name: Phase A : Talc/Supra A L i t h i um S t e a r a t e K a o l i n 2457 Calcium S i l i c a t e / M i c r o c e l E Bismuth O x y c h l o r i d e ( a n d ) C a r m i n e / B i c r o n a Carmine B i s m u t h O x y c h l o r i d e / B i r o n 8-50 M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben Phase 8 : Mica (and) I r o n Oxides (and) T i t a n i u m Diox de/Ti m i r o n MP-60, MP-65

W t%

24.10 2.50 5.00 0.50 2.00 2.60

0.20 0.10

50.00

Phase C : M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l / A m e r c h o l L-101 11 .oo Lanolin Alcohol/Super Hartolan 1.oo White Petrolatum 1.oo Procedure: C o m b i n e P h a s e A . P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i l l , p a s s i n g t w i c e t h r o u g h a 0 . 0 2 7 " h e r r i n g b o n e s c r e e n . Add P h a s e B w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . C o m b i n e P h a s e C . H e a t t o 70C. S p r a y o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g b u l k . Pass e n t i r e b a t c h t h r o u g h a jump g a p . F o r m u l a AS1-5 SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c a ! S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

61

Body Mask W i t h L i p o s i l t Green A n o n - d r y i n g body mask f o r s k i n c l e a n s i n g and n o u r i s h m e n t . The L i p o s i l t Green is t h e s o u r c e o f n u t r i e n t s w h i c h y i e l d s n o u r i s h ment and l e a v e s t h e s k i n w i t h a smooth s o f t a p p e a r a n c e .

Secl: 1 2 2 3 3 4

5

5 5 6 7 7

Raw M a t e r i a l / I N C I Name: Dei o n i zed Water K e l t r o l / X a n t h a n Gum Mineral C o l l o i d BP/Montmorillonite Uniphen P-23 L i popeg 6000-DS/PEG-150 Di s t e a r a t e L i p o s i 1t Green/Si 1 t L i p o m u l s e 1 6 5 / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 Stearate L i p 0 GMS-450/Glyceryl S t e a r a t e L i p o v o l SES/Sesame O i 1 Kaol i n D e i o n i z e d Water U n i c i d e U - I 3 / I m i d a z o l i n y l Urea

yf&?

37.33 0.12 0.10 0.60 0.05 30.00 5.00 3.00 15.00 7.50 1 .oo 0.30

Procedure: 1 . Heat Sequence # I t o 78C u s i n g o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium speed. 2 . D r y m i x Sequence #2, add s l o w l y t o Sequence # I and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y h y d r a t e d . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 78C. 3 . Add Sequence #3 i n o r d e r o f a d d i t i o n t o b a t c h u s i n g o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium speed. M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 78C. 4 . Add Sequence # 4 t o b a t c h u n d e r homomixer. H o l d t e m p e r a t u r e 78C. 5 . Heat and m e l t a t 80C Sequence # 5 and add t o b a t c h on homom i x e r . S w i t c h t o sweep b l a d e on o v e r h e a d m i x e r and c o o l t o 42C. 6 . A t 42C add Sequence #6 and m i x u n t i l t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d . Cool t o 3 5 c . 7 . A t 35C add p r e m i x e d Sequence #7 t o b a t c h and c o o l t o 25C Specifications: pH: 6.0+-0.2 V i s c o s i t y : T - D @ 3 . 0 rpm=36,000 cps+-10% The enhancement o f e p i d e r m a l c e 1 r e n e w a l i n f o r m u l a t i o n has been c o n f i r m e d .

SOURCE:

L i p 0 C h e m i c a l s I n c , : Forrnu a t i o n

No, 8 7 0

62

Cosmetic and Toletry Formulations

Cleansing G e l (Wash o f f t y p e )

Wt%

Raw M a t e r i a l s : T E m a l e x O.T.G. Emal ex CC-168 Emalex OD-25 J J B u t y l paraben

56.4 5.0 16.0 0.2

4.0 1.7 9.0 7.3 0.1

B: Glucam E-10 Glycerin S o r b i t o 1 (70% a q . ) Water Methyl paraben Colorant C:

q.s. 0.3

Perfume

Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) and ( 8 ) up a t 80C and add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) g r a d u a l l y . Cool down t h e m i x t u r e w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and add perfume a t 50C. Cool down t o b e l o w 45C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Note: T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s g e l a t 45-5OC. I f water c o n t e n t reduces by e v a p o r a t i o n d u r i n g p r o d u c t i o n , g e l c a n n o t be o b t a i n e d . P r e v e n t w a t e r e v a p o r a t i o n o r compensate w a t e r c o n t e n t i n advance. F o r m u l a A-390-18 Make up Remover (wash o f f t y p e ) Raw M a t e r i a l s : A c y l g l u t a m a t e CT-12 A c y l g l u t a m a t e CK-11 A c y l g l u t a m a t e CA Squal ane A m i t e r LGOD-5 Sodium C h l o r i d e Methyl paraben B u t y l paraben Fragrance ~~

WtO/o

40.0 8.0 8.0 21 . o

21 . o

1.5 0.2 0.1 0.2

Procedure: D i s s o l v e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s ( e x c e p t f r a g r a n c e ) a t 80C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool down w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Add f r a g r a n c e a t 40C and c o n t i n u e t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a No. MRJ-11

SOURCE: A j i n o r n o t o U . S m A . , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

63

C l e a n s i n g 01 . 1 1-ngredi e n t s : Macadam?a 01 1 Vegetable O i l (Panacete 8 1 0 ) P.O.E. (30) Sorbitol Tetraoleate Vitamin E Perfume M i n e r a l 01 1-70

y t 04

10.0 10.0 13.0 0.2 q.s 56.8

Mi 1k Lotion

I n g r ed ien t.s : A) P . O . E . S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e S o r b i t a n Monostearate Stearic Acid Cetanol Polysynlane Macadamia O i l B u t y l Paraben B) Glycerin X a n t h a n Gum ( 2 % s o l ) Methy I Paraben O i s t . Water C ) Perfume

wtya 2

.o

1. o

2.0

0.25 7.0

3.0 0.1 3.0

10.0

0.1 71.55 q. s

Procedure o f M i 1 k L o t i o n : 1 . H e a t A and 6 , up to 8 0 C . 2 . Add 5 t o A , and c o n t i n u e t o m i x u n t i l down t o a r o u n d 40'2. 3 . Add C . Remarks :

P . O . E . = polyoxyethylene = quantum s u f f i c i t

9,s.

A t y p i c a l p r e s c r i p t i o n example o f P o l y s y n l a n e f o r c l e a n s i n g o i l and m i l k l o t i o n . As a f a c i a l c l e a n s e r P o l y s y n l a n e i s more e f f i c i e n t t h a n g e n e r a l c l e a n s i n g creams on t h e m a r k e t , l e a v i n g an a p p r o p r i a t e o i l b a s e w h i c h h e l p s s o f t e n t h e s k i n . This m i l k l o t i o n i s designed f o r d r y s k i n , but i s a v a i l a b l e f o r normal s k i n b y a d j u s t i n g t h e c o n t e n t s o f the base o i l .

SOURCE: P o l y e s t e r C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

64

C l e a r F~ a c i a l C l_e a n s i n g _Gel

~

A c l e a r , m i l d , foaming f a c i a l c l e a n s e r designed t o p r o v i d e s t a b l e s u s p e n s i o n o f added a b r a s i v e a r t i c l e s . The Jordapon ACI-30G p r o v i d e s e x c e l l e n t f o a m i n g , g e n t l e c l e a n s i n g , and a s o f t , smooth a f t e r f e e l on t h e s k i n . -~ Part:

I n Q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Dei o n i zed Water Nonoxynol-9/Macol NP-9.5 Carbomer/Carbopol 1342

WtYQ 50.00 0.01 1.oo

B

Dei o n i zed Water TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e / S t e p a n o l WAT M e t h y l Paraben I m i d a z o l i d i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l 11 5 P E G - I 50 D i s t e a r a t e / M a p e g 6000 DS

20.00 3.50 0.15 0.15 0.50

C

Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n A C I - B O G Soyamide DEA/Mazamide SS-10 Cocami de DEA/Mazami de J T - I 2 8 Na4 EDTA

16.80

A

D

D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne

1.50

1.50 0.10 3.39 1.40

pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d # 4 @ 25C (shear s e n s i t i v e ) v e r y l o w s h e a r : 166,000 low shear: 56,400 medium s h e a r : 21,700 moderate shear: 7,620 Appearance: C l e a r , v i s c o u s y e l l o w l i q u i d

cps cps cps cps

@ 0.3 @ 1.5 @ 6 @ 30

rpm rpm rpm rpm

Procedure: D i s p e r s e t h e carbomer i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r p l u s Macol N P - 9 . 5 , s t i r r i n g f o r about 20 m i n u t e s . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e m i x t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t i n g t o 65C t o d i s s o l v e t h e Mapeg 6000 DS. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Premix t h e p a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o a d j u s t t h e pH and t h i c k e n t h e p r o d u c t .

SOURCE:

PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc,:

F o r m u l a t i o n K-107

Beauty Aids

65

Conceal ing St i ck F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s p r o d u c t c o v e r s f i n e f a c i a l l i n e s and b l e m i s h e s n a t u r a l l y , l e a v i n g a f l e x i b l e b a r r i e r w h i c h a l s o r e t a i n s m o i s t u r e and c o n d i t i o n s t h e s k i n . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) i s used as a p i g m e n t d i s p e r s e r w h i c h makes t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n e a s i e r and t h e r e b y a v o i d i n g t h e expense o f m i l l i n g . Raw M a t e r i a l s : Phase A : Castor O i l Petrolatum, White Synthetic Candelilla I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e Carnauba Wax D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax J o j o b a Wax P a r a f f i n Wax 130/135 O z o k e r i t e 170 Squal ane Vitamin E

27.3 22.0 10.0 6.0 5.0 5.0 4.0 1.5 1.o 1.o 0.5

Phase B : Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) T i t a n i um D i o x i d e Cosmetic Tan I r o n O x i d e Brown I r o n O x i d e

9.0 5.0 1.5 0.2

Phase C : Liquapar

1.o

Procedure: Heat and m i x Phase B t i l l p i g m e n t s a r e e v e n l y d i s p e r s e d . Weigh Phase A and i n d i v i d u a l l y add t o Phase B w h i l e m i x i n g . Heat A&B t i l l homogeneous, add Phase C, c o o l and p o u r a t 60C. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n t h i s p r o d u c t can be p o u r e d i n t o a compact t r a y . L a r g e v a r i a t i o n s can b e made i n wax and o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n s t h a t a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d i n s t i c k p r o d u c t s and s t i l l p r o d u c e a s i m i l a r f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t .

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen I n c a : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

66

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Creamy Liauid Make-UD Inqredients: Phase A: Ceteareth-15 and Glyceryl Stearate (Tego Care 215) Cetyl Alcohol (Tego Alkanol 16) Stearoxy Dimethicone (Abil Wax 2434) Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0 s ) Octyl Palmitate (Tegosoft OP) Isoeicosane Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Tegosoft CT) Phase B: Water Preservatives Glycerin Butylene Glycol

Wt% 2.20 1.75 0.25 3.00 3.00 5.00 5.00 60.60

Q.S.

1.00 3.00

Phase C: Carbomer 941 Octyl Palmitate (Tegosoft OP)

0.20 0.80

Phase D: Titanium Dioxide Mica Talc Iron Oxides

9.00 2.00 2.00 1.20

Phase E: Sodium Hydroxide (10%) Fragrance

to pH 6.0 Q.S.

Procedure: 1. Heat the ingredients of Phase A to 80C. Mix well. 2 . Heat the ingredients of Phase B to 8OC. Mix well to dissolve preservatives. 3 . Add B to A or A to B with mixing. Cool to 60-65C. 4. Continue mixing. Add Phase C. 5. Homogenize. 6. While homogenizing, add pigments. 7. After homogenization, cool to 40-45C with sweep mixing. 8. Adjust pH. Fragrance. SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulation

Beauty Aids

67

Dark Beiqe Makeup with Teqo Care 4 5 0 Ingredients: Wt% Phase A: 2.0 Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care 450) Almond Oil 2.0 Cyclomethicone 3.5 Cetyl Dimethicone (Abil Wax 9 8 0 1 ) 1.0 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (Tegosoft CT) 4.0 1.5 Iron Oxides Titanium Dioxide 6.0 Phase B: Glycerin 2.0 Water 76.6 Phase C: 0.2 Carbomer 941 Isopropyl Palmitate (Tegosoft P) 0.8 Phase D: Sodium Hydroxide (10% solution) 0.4 Phase E: Preservative Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1. Heat the ingredients of Phase A to 8OC. Disperse Iron Oxides and Titanium Dioxide into Phase A with sufficient agitation. 2 . Heat the ingredients of Phase B to 8OC. 3. Add A to B with agitation. 4 . Homogenize. 5. Disperse Carbomer into the oil/ester add to A/B. Homogenize. 6. Cool to 35-40C with stirring. 7 . Add Phase D/E. Stir. 8 . Mix until viscosity profile is obtained. Facial Cleaner and Toner Inqredients: Water Tetrasodium EDTA Aloe A1 1antoin PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (Tegosoft GMC 6) Caprylamido/Capramidopropyl Betaine (Tego Betaine 810) Lactil Organic Extracts Propylene Glycol SDA Alcohol 40 Preservatives Color Fragrance Procedure: Mix ingredients in order, mixing until clear.

Wts,

83.40

0.10 1.00

0.30 1.50 3.70

2.00 2.00 1.00 5.00 Q.S. Q.S.

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulations

Q.S.

68

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Deep E x t r a Body C o n d i t i o n e r F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s formula u t i l i z e s t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e Hexanediol Behenyl Beeswax i n a s i l i c o n e o i l and t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s o f Bee's M i l k .

__ Raw M a t e r i a1 s :

K

O i l Phase A : E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF S i l i c o n e O i 1 245 S i 1 i cone O i 1 556 Hexanedi o l Behenyl Beeswax Lecithin

O

3.0 2.5 2.0 1.0 1.o

Water Phase B : Carbopol 940 (2% s o l u t i o n ) Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e Triethanolamine Cocami de S i l k Powder M a r i n e Dew S i l k Soluble Liquid Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d )

68.3

Phase C : Bee's M i l k Germaben I 1 Fragrance

10.0 1.o 0.2

10.0 0.5 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1

Procedure: M i x and h e a t w a t e r phase t o 70-75C. M e l t o i l phase and add t o w a t e r phase a t 70-75C under a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 45C add Phase C and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r a t 35C. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Changes i n t h e a c t i v e s and t h e c o n d i t i o n e r s a r e s t r a i g h t f o r w a r d , s i m p l e r e p l a c e m e n t s . G a f q u a t ' s w o u l d be a c l a s s o f c o n d i t i o n e r s would f i t t h i s formula w e l l . SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Beauty Aids

69

E m o l l i e n t L i q u i d Make-Uq F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : Conceals m i n o r s k i n i m p e r f e c t i o n s , y e t m o i s t u r i z e s , g i v i n g s k i n a s o f t dewy f i n i s h . T h i s p r o d u c t has tremendous endurance through very vigorous a c t i v i t i e s . Raw M a t e r ia1 s : ______

Phase A : Xanthan Gum Gel 1u l ose Gum Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne PEG 1450 M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l P o l y s o r b a t e 60

wts/, 0.33 0.23 50.55 0.70 2.35 0.28 1.08 0.47

Phase 8 : Titanium Dioxide Brown I r o n O x i d e Y e l l o w BC I r o n O x i d e s Orange Wax Cera B e l l i n a

8.44 2.35 0.94 6.10 4.69

Phase C : Octyl Palmitate S i l i c o n e 245 I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e Hydrogenated Castor O i l Isostearic Acid Jojoba O i l Propylene Glycol Stearate P r o p y l Paraben

6.57 2.00 6.10 1 .41 1 .50 0.94 1.89 0.28

Procedure: D i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s i n t h e Orange Wax and Cera B e l l i n a i n a b e a k e r w i t h a g l a s s s t i r r i n g r o d , a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y . Repeat s o - a s - t o b r e a k u p v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n s . M i x and h e a t t o 75C Phase C u n t i l u n i f o r m , add t o Phase B u n d e r a g i t a t i o n , maint a i n i n g t h e t e m p e r a t u r e t i l l homogeneous. Add t h e m i x e d and m e l t e d Phase B and C t o t h e m i x e d and m e l t e d Phase A . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g , p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 50C. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Sunscreens, v e g e t a b l e o i l s and b r a n c h e d o i l s can be s u b s t i t u d e d i n m i n o r amounts s i n c e p r o d u c t s such as t h e s e a r e sensi t i v e t o s m a l l changes t h a t w i l l a f f e c t s t a b i l i t y .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

70

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

E s t e r Based. L i p s t i c k Ingredients: WtYO Phase A : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g i n M) 40.00 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 3.00 Cetearyl Octanoate (Tegosoft L i q u i d ) 3.00 Mineral O i l 4.00 Castor O i l 19.50 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 1 4 ) 0.50 Petrolatum 6.00 Carnauba 5.00 Ozokeri t e 2.00 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 2.00 Phase B : Pigments i n Castor O i l ) 15.00 Castor O i l ) Phase C: Antioxidants Q.S Fragrance Q.S F1 a v o r Q.S Procedure: 1 . M e l t t o g e t h e r t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A ( 8 0 9 O C ) . M i x u n t i uniform. 2 . Add t h e p i g m e n t g r i n d s a n d t h e r e m a i n i n g C a s t o r O i l 3 . Add Phase C . 4. Mold. Sheer L i q u i d Foundation Ingredients: Phase A : I r o n Oxides (micron z e d / s i l i c o n e t r e a t e d ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (m c r o n i z e d / s i l i c o n e t r e a t e d ) T a l c ( s i l i c o n e t r e a ed) Cyclomethicone Cetearyl Octanoate (Tegosoft L i q u i d ) Pol ydecene Phase B : D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 EM 9 7 ) Cyclometh cone Phenyl T r methicone ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) Fragrance Phase C : P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Water S o d i u m Ch o r id e Preservat ves Procedure: 1 . M i x Phase A . M i 1 1 . 2 . M i x Phase B. Add t o Phase A . 3 . M i x Phase C , a d d s l o w l y t o A/B 4 . Homogeni z e . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l

Wt%

1.60 6.00 4.00 9.00 2.00 3.00

2.80 9.00 1 .oo Q.S. 6.00 54.35 1.25 Q.S.

Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

Eye C o n t o u r u

r

n

F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and Advantages: T h i s p r o d u c t i s d e s i g n e d t o r e d u c e t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g and f a t i g u e a r o u n d t h e e y e s . The p r o d u c t ' s a c t i v i t y comes f r o m B a r l e y Beta Glucan which h e l p s promote t h e h e a l i n g o f s k i n t h r o u g h t h e r e d u c t i o n o f i r r i t a t i o n . D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax m o i t u r i z e s and p r o t e c t s t h e s k i n f r o m t h e sun due t o t h e strong antioxidant properties. Raw M a t e r i a l s : O i l Phase: O y s t e r Nut O i l S i 1 i c o n y l Beeswax R i c e Bran O i l Saf f 1ower O i 1 D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax Isostearic Acid Isopropyl Palmitate Vitamin E Isostearic Acid C e t y l s t e a r y l Alcohol Squal ane Isopropyl Palmitate Hydroxy P o l y e s t e r Liquapar Water Phase: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) A1 1 a n t o i n Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 icat.e Sodi um B o r a t e M e t h y l Paraben Xanthan Gum B a r l e y 1 - 3 B e t a G l u c a n 70%

Wt% 2.0 5.0 2.0

6.0 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 2.5 1.5 1.o 2.0 1.2 0.4

76.1 1.o 1.2 0.8 1.2 1,2 0.2

Procedure: Weigh o u t i n g r e d i e n t s f o r Water Phase. Heat t o 8OC w h i l e m i x i n g v i g o r o u s l y ( w i t h o u t a d d i n g a i r ) . Heat O i l Phase t o 80C w h i l e m i x i n g . Add O i l Phase t o Water Phase under r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and i t I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : N a t u r a l p r e s e r v a t i v e s may be s u b s t i t u t e d f o r t h e s y n t h e t i c s i n t h e f o r m u l a . D i f f e r e n t o i l s may b e s u b s t i t u t e d .

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

71

72

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

__ Ingredients:

YL%

Phase A : H20 C a r b o p o l 934

79.80 0.35

Phase B: P r o d u c t S E - 1 0 0 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e & PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) Petrolatum Super H a r t o l an Canol i n H e s t CSO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) H e s t IS-2-0 ( I s o c e t e a r e t h - 2 O c t a n o a t e ) Hest L-2-0 (Laureth-2 Octanoate) Cocoa B u t t e r

3.00 3.50 2.40 2.00 1.70 1.40 1 .40 1.70

Phase C: H20, D e i o n i zed T E A 99%

1 .oo 0.75

Phase D : Germaben I 1 E

1 .oo

Specifications: pH: 7 . 5 0 V i s c . #4/12:

40,000

cps

Procedure: 1 I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e , d i s p e r s e Carbopol 934 i h t o H20 using a l i g h t n i n ' type mixer. 2 When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d a n d f r e e o f l u m p s , h e a t t o 75C while mixing. 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e , c o m b i n e P h a s e B a n d h e a t t o 75C w h i l e mixing. 4 . A t 75C, a d d P h a s e 8 t o P h a s e A . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 5 . Add p r e m i x e d P h a s e C . M i x w e l l . 6 . C o o l t o b e l o w 40C a n d a d d P h a s e 0 .

. .

SOURCE:

Heterene, I n c . :

F o r m u l a t i o n HC94-147

Beauty Aids

73

F a c i a l Scrub No. .__ Phase: I n g r e d i e n t : 1 A Carbomer 15.00 2 A Deionized water 57.75 3 A Propylene g l y c o l 2.50 A A l o e Vera g e l 0.25 4 5 B Cyclomethicone 5.00 6 B O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l 2.50 7 B S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 3.50 6 B Emulsifier 1.oo 9 B Isopropyl myristate 10.00 10 C T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% 1.00 11 D P o l y e t h y l e n e AC-9A 1.50 12 E Preservative QS Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n t o w a t e r w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 75'2. Add P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and A l o e Vera g e l . Phase B: Heat o i l phase t o 75C. Add t o w a t e r phase. Phase C : Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o o i l / w a t e r m i x t u r e . Cool t o 40C. Phase D : Add P o l y e t h y l e n e AC-9A. Phase E : Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . Carbomer i s t h e s u s p e n d i n g a g e n t . T h i s s c r u b i s d e s i g n e d f o r p e o p l e w i t h o i l y s k i n and needs t o have a d r y i n g e f f e c t . Uses t w o v e r y d r y emollients-cyclomethicone and i s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e . They l e a v e a d r y f e e l i n g s k i n . The O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l l e a v e s t h e s k i n w i t h a f r e s h , m o i s t a f t e r f e e l . Kukui n u t o i l w o u l d a l s o work v e r y w e l l i n t h i s f o r m u l a . SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

_-~__ C l e a r Faci a1 C1 ____. eanser Moderatelv D r i c e d formula. Verv m i l d f a c i a l c l e a n s e r t h a t conditions t h e ' s k i n while i t cleans. V i s c o s i t y : 600 t o 1100 c p s pH: 6 . 0 I. ngredients: D e i o n i z e d Water 65.12 2.50 Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e ( 8 0 % a c t i v e ) Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (33% a c t i v e ) 13.32 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne (35% a c t i v e ) 14.29 Ucare Polymer LR-400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 0.10 1.25 Sodium X y l e n e s u l f o n a t e (40% a c t i v e ) Ucon 50-HB-660 (PPG-12-Buteth-16) 0.02 1.oo Glucam E - 1 0 ( M e t h y l G l u c e t h - 1 0 ) G l u c q u a t 125 ( L a u r y l M e t h y l G l u c e t h - 1 0 H y d r o x y p r o p y l Dimonium C h l o r i d e ) 2.00 DMDM H y d a n t o i n 0.40 Procedure: Add t h e sodium x y l e n e s u l f o n a t e t o t h e w a t e r w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e s p r i n k l i n g i n t h e U c a r e Polymer LR-400. Once t h e p o l y m e r i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , h e a t t o 70C. When t h e p o l y m e r i s h y d r a t e d , add t h e sodium c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e , cocamidop r o p y l b e t a i n e and ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , i n t h a t o r d e r , w a i t i n g f o r each t o d i s s o l v e b e f o r e a d d i n g t h e n e x t . Once u n i f o r m , add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e i n t h e o r d e r shown. A l l o w t o c o o l t o a t l e a s t 40C, t h e n add p r e s e r v a t i v e . SOURCE: Amerchol: F o r m u l a t i o n T 8 2 - 2 6 7 - 5

74

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

F a c i a l Wash w i t h S a l i c y l i c A c i d

Wt%

Insredients: Water Sodium C14-16 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e Monalac MA0 Phosphol ip i d G L A Sodium C h l o r i d e S a l i c y l i c Acid

44.0 40.0 10.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 0 - 3 . 5 V i s c o s i t y 13,500 c p s Clear Viscous F l u i d Procedure: Add f i r s t t h r e e i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h m i l d h e a t . S e q u e n t i a l l y , b l e n d i n r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and package. F o r m u l a t i o n F-685 M i 1 k En_r_l_chedFacj-Sl-Cleanser

(Clear)

ytx

Raw -Mater ia 1-: Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (250/) Monalac MPL Monalac M O Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance Monalac MAB

55.00 35.00 2.00 2.00 1 .oo qs 5.00

Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and a d l u s t pH t o 6 . 5 t o 7 . 5 P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t ies : Appearance: C1 e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C ( c P ) : 5 , 0 0 0

t o 10,000 v a r i e s w i t h pH

Formulation F-723

SOURCE:

Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

75

Foami nq F a c i a1 C1 e a n s e r

Raw M a t e r i a1 si A m i s o f t CT-12s ( 3 0 % ) Cocamide DEA ( A m i s o l CDE) Butylene Glycol PEG-40 H y d r o g e n a t e d C a s t o r O i l PCA I s o s t e a r a t e ( P y r o t e r CPI-40) A j i d e w N-50 (50%) Methyl paraben Sodium b e n z o a t e Water

W

X

33.0 2.0 5.0

2.0 1. o 0.2 0.2

qs

1 . A l l i n g r e d i e n t s d i s s o l v e a t 70-80C w i t h s t i r r i n g 2 . Cool down t o 30C.

pH: 5 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 6 . 1 mPa-s Formula SP-01

( B type\No

1 \ 3 0 rpm\30

sec.\25C)

Skin Tonic

_______ Raw M a t e r i a l s : A j i d e w N-50 A1 1a n t o i n

L - S e r i ne D i p o t a s s i um G l y c y r r h i z i n a t e Butylene g l y c o l Methyl paraben Ethanol Water

Wt%

3.0 0.1 0.5 0.1 2.0 0.05 8.0 86.25

Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e above i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t e t h a n o l a t 70-80C and c o o l down t o 50C. Add e t h a n o l t o t h e s o l u t i o n and c o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formula No. L-100

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

76

Cosmetic and Toi/etry Formulations

Glisteninq Body Colosne This formula is a soft, shimmering fragrance lotion with Velsan D8P-3 liquid which leaves the skin luxuriously soft. Inqredients: Wt% Phase A: Isopropyl Palmitate 4.00 Stearic Acid 1.00 Mineral Oil 2.00 Velsan D8P-3 (l)(Isopropyl PPG-2 Isodeceth-7 Carboxylate) 3.00 Glyceryl Monostearate 1.50 Propyl Paraben 0.10 Timica (2) (Mica and Titanium Dioxide) 3.00 Phase B: Deionized Water Glycerin Carbopol 941 (3) (Carbomer-941) Triethanolamine 99% Dow Corning 200 Fluid (4) (Dimethicone) Dimethicone Copolyol Phase C: Fragrance Dye

74.65 5.00 0.25 1.00 2.00 0.20 2.50 qs

Procedure: Heat Phase A to 77C. Separately heat Phase B to 77C. Add Phase A to Phase B. Cool with stirring to 45C. Add Phase C, continue cooling and stirring to 40C. Appearance: White pearly lotion pH: 7.0+-0.3 Viscosity: 33OOt-500 cps Notes : (1) Clariant Corp. (3) BF Goodrich

(2) Mearl Corp.

( 4 ) Dow Corning

SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Technical Bulletin CMP-O9/Ref: CL15-19C

Beauty Aids

77

Liqht Face Fluid with Emulqade PL 6 8 / 5 0 ComDonent: I Emulgade PL 68/50/Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol Monomu 1s 60-35C/Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Cetiol J 600/01evl Erucate Myritol 331/Cocoglycerides Cetiol OE/Dicaprylyl Ether Baysilon M 350/Dimethicone Copherol 1250/Tocopheryl Acetate I1

Glycerin 86% Carbopol 5984/Carbomer KOH 5%

I11 Water

Preservative/Perfume

wt% 2.7

1.6 3.0 4.0 2.0

0.5 1.0 3.0 0.05

0.2

79.95

q.s.

Viscosity mPas: 15,600 Preparation in the Laboratory: Heat phase I to 80C. Heat phase I1 to 80C and add the oil phase while stirring. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring. The stirring rate must be selected in such a way that the emulsion is kept in continual motion without developing a socalled "stirring cone". Add the 2 % Carbopol swelling at 50C. Neutralization at 40C. Add preservative and perfume at room temperature. Formulation No.: 96/164/4 Facial Cleansinq Gel with Gluadin WO Component: Plantacare PS 10/Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Lauryl Glucoside Gluadin WQ/Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein NaCl Water Preservative/Perfume

12.0

2.0 2.0

84.0 q.s

pH-Value: 5.6 WAS: 8 . 0 Viscosity Brookfield mPas, RVT, 20C, Rotor 4, 10 rpm: 6,000 Preparation in the Laboratory: Mix ingredients at room temperature Hint: Kind and amount of perfume may influence the viscosity of the product. Formulation No.: 94/138/40

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations

78

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

LiDcare Wt$ Component: I Myritol 318/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 14.0 Myritol PC/Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate Dicaprate 6.5 Ultra Lantrol HP 2074/Lanolin Oil 2.7 IPP/Isopropyl Palmitate 13.0 Candelilla Cera 7.0 Lunacera M/Microcrystalline wax 2.7 Carnauba Cera 1.0 Cera Alba 4.3 Lanolin 7.5 Monomuls 60-35C/Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides 3.7 Controx KS 0.05 Hombitec L5/Titanium dioxide 5.4 22.15 Ricinus communis/Castor oil I1 Hydagen CMF/Chitosan Glycolate 10.0 Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Melt the components listed under I at 80-85C and stir until the pigments are completely incorporated. Homogenize once with a triple roll press and heat up again to 80-85C. 2. Add the ingredients of phase I1 one after the other and stir for 5 minutes at 8OC. Pass mixture twice more through the triple roll press and melt again at approx. 80C. 3. For a pearl-shine lipstick add the pearliser and stir until homogeneous. 4. Cast with stirring into the moulds. Allow to cool down to approx. 30C and keep in the refrigerator over night. Formulation No.: 94/056/146

Lipstick

Wt% ComDonent: I Myritol 318/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 14.0 Myritol PC/Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 6.0 17.0 Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol Candelilla Wax 5.0 Carnauba Wax 7.0 Bienenwachs 8100 5.0 Dehymuls PGPH/Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 4.0 3.0 Monomuls 90 L 12/Glyceryl Laurate Castor oil 18.0 Color pigments q.s. I1 Hydagen CMF/Chitosan Glycolate 10.0 Copherol F1300/Tocopherol 2.0 Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Melt the components listed under I at 80C and stir until homogeneous. 2. Add components listed under I1 at room temperature. Stir for 5 minutes at 80C. 3. Homogenise twice with a triple roll press and heat up again to 80C. 4. Add phase 111. Stir until homogeneous and immediately pour the formulation hot in the form and allow them to cool down over night. Formulation No. 94/056/181 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations

Beauty Aids

79

Liposome Emu 1 s iE This l i g h t , m i l k y w h i t e emulsion c o n t a i n s liposomes t h a t d e l i v e r Evening Primrose O i l , which a r e r i c h i n gamma-linolenic a c i d and p r o v i d e e x c e l l e n t m o i s t u r i z i n g and s o f t e n i n g b e n e f i t s . I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: P a r t A: Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ Pemulen T R - 1 Carbomer/Carbopol U l t r e z 1 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e / C e t i o l 868 Mineral O i l

0.25 0.20 8.00 10.00

P a r t B: Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i n

75.55 2.00

wts/,

Part C: Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 8 % )

0.50

P a r t D: Phenoxyethanol ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) B u t y l p a r a b e n (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben/Phenonip L e c i t h i n ( a n d ) E v e n i n g P r i m r o s e O i l / B r o o k s o m e EPO

0.50 3.00

P r o p e r t ie s : pH: 6 . 2 - 6 . 6 V i scosi t y (cP) : 11,000-1 4 , 0 0 0 Appearance: M i 1ky-whi t e emu1 s i on Preoaration Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A i n t h e c o n t a i n e r t h a t w i l l h o l d t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t . Mix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s w e l l t o disperse t h e polymers. 2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B and mix u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Add 3 / 4 o f P a r t B t o P a r t A s l o w l y w i t h s t r o n g m i x i n g . M i x f o r a b o u t 15 m i n u t e s t o s w e l l t h e p o l y m e r s . 4 . When t h e e m u l s i o n i s smooth and w h i t e , add p a r t o f t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e and b r i n g t h e pH t o a b o u t 7 . 0 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . 5 . S l o w l y add t h e r e m a i n d e r o f P a r t B w i t h m o d e r a t e m i x i n g . 6 . Add remai n i ng s o d i um h y d r o x i d e . 7 . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t h e l i p o s o m e s u s i n g slow a g i t a t i o n t o a v o i d r u p t u r i n g liposomes. Mix u n t i l uniform.

SOURCE:

B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a PO050

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

80

Lipstick F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and Advantages: T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k h a s a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g w e a r i n g . The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s t a b l e , a l t h o u g h i t h a s a h i g h o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Cera B e l l i n a a l l o w s f o r h i g h c o l o r a t i o n w i t h o u t l a r g e p i g m e n t l o a d and i m p a r t s a s a t i n l i k e f e e l t o t h e l i p s . Raw M a t e r ia1 s : 1 . C e r a B e l l i n a ( P g - 3 Beeswax) 2 . C a n d e l i 11 a 3 . O z o k e r i t e 160/164 4 . Carnauba # I Y e l l o w 5. Castor O i l 6. P a r a f f i n O i l 7. Isopropyl Palmitate 8 . Jojoba O i l 9. Vitamin E IO.D&C Red # 7 11 E s c a l o l 5 0 7 12.Titanium Dioxide 1 3 . P r o p y l Paraben

.

Wx/n

16.70 3.10 4.20 1.20 45.70 16.30 6.20 1.oo 0.50 4.00 0.75 0.25 0.10

Procedure: Add 1 , 1 0 , a n d 1 3 i n t o a v e s s e l l a r g e e n o u g h t h a t w i l l a l l o w t h e o t h e r components t o b e added a f t e r t h e C e r a B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) and p i g m e n t s have been m e l t e d (75C) and m i x e d t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down a s many o f t h e v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n s . A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n s have been s e p a r a t e d add 2 , 3 a n d 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e m i x i n g . I n c r e a s e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e s l i g h t l y i f n e e d e d t o m e l t t h e c a r n a u b a . Then t h e r e m a i n d e r o f t h e components c a n be added and m i x e d a t a tempe r a t u r e o f 70C. A f t e r t h e p r o d u c t i s homogeneous, u s e a s h e a r m i x e r a t l o w s p e e d f o r 45 t o 60 m i n u t e s , m a i n t a i n i n g a s i m i l a r temperature. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a a n d i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Other o i l s n a t u r a l o r s y n t h e t i c can e a s i l y be s u b s t i t u t e d t o meet t h e f o r m u l a t o r ' s n e e d s , c o s t , a v a i l a b i l i t y , e t c . w i t h o u t s i g n i f i c a n t l y changing t h e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . Higher m e l t i n g p o i n t s can e a s i l y be achieved w i t h o n l y s l i g h t a l t e r a t i o n s i n wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . B i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e compounds a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e f o r m u l a s . D e p e n d i n g on t h e d e s i r e d c o l o r and t h e b l e n d o f p i g m e n t s used, t h e r e w i l l be a need f o r s m a l l i n g r e d i e n t c o n c e n t r a t i o n changes i n t h e f o r m u l a due t o t h e p i g m e n t ' s e f f e c t on t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e m i x t u r e .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Beauty Aids

81

L ips t ic & Component: .W - t% I.M y r i t o l 318 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 14.0 6.0 M y r i t o 1 PC P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 17.0 Candel i 11 a Cera 7.0 Carnauba Cera 5.5 Cera A l b a 6.5 2.5 G e n e r o l 122 N Soya S t e r o l Dehymuls PGPH P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e 4.0 3.0 Monomuls 9 0 L 12 H y d r o g e n a t e d Palm G l y c e r i d e s 18.0 R i c i nus communi s C a s t o r o i 1 Color pigments q.s. 1 I . H y d a g e n CMF C h i t o s a n G l y c o l a t e 10.0 I I I . C o p h e r o 1 F 1300 T o c o p h e r o l 2.0 Preparation i n the Laboratory: 1 . M e l t t h e components l i s t e d under I a t 80-85C and s t i r u n t i l t h e p i g m e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . Homogenise once w i t h a t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and h e a t up a g a i n t o 80-85C. 2 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase 1 1 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r and s t i r f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t 8OC. Pass m i x t u r e t w i c e more t h r o u g h t h e t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and m e l t a g a i n a t a p p r o x . 80C. 3 . F o r a p e a r l - s h i n e l i p s t i c k add t h e p e a r l i s e r and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Cast w i t h s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e m o u l d s . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o a p p r o x . 30C and keep i n t h e r e f r i g e r a t o r o v e r n i g h t . F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 94/056/178 . Component: .-

L -i p~s

tick

y/t/ M y r i t o 1 31 8 C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 14.0 6.0 M y r i t o 1 PC P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e 17.0 Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 5.5 Candel i 11 a Cera Carnauba Cera 7.0 Bienenwachs 8100 Cera A l b a 6.5 G e n e r o l 122 N Soya S t e r o l 2.5 Dehymul s PGPH P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e 4.0 Monomuls 90 L 12 H y d r o g e n a t e d Palm G l y c e r i d e s 3.0 Castor o i l 18.0 9,s. Color pigments I 1 Hydagen CMF C h i t o s a n G l y c o l a t e 10.0 2.0 I I I C o p h e r o l F 1300 T o c o p h e r o l Preparation i n the Laboratory: 1 . M e l t t h e components l i s t e d under I . a t 80-85C and s t i r u n t i l t h e p i g m e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . Homogenise once w i t h a t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and h e a t up a g a i n t o 80-85C. 2 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase I 1 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r and s t i r f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t 8OC. Pass m i x t u r e t w i c e more t h r o u g h t h e t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and m e l t a g a i n a t a p p r o x . 80C. 3 . F o r a p e a r l - s h i n e l i p s t i c k add t h e p e a r l i s e r and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Cast w i t h s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e m o u l d s . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o a p p r o x . 30C and keep i n t h e r e f r i g e r a t o r o v e r n i g h t . F o r m u l a t i o n No.: 94/056/179

I.

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

82

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

L-is _s_t_l:ck wto/, 30.0 3.0

R&W-M3!SIi3.lS_1 A : Castor o i l D&C Red #7 Amihope LL Mica T i 02 B:

1.o 12.0 4.0

22.4 5.7 1.8 4.0 9.0 2.0 0.1 5.0

Castor o i l Candellila Carnauba Cereci n M y r i t o l 318 Mineral o i l Propyl paraben Eldew CL-301

Procedure: M i x ( A ) p i g m e n t s w i t h Amihope L L i n a h i g h speed m i x e r f o r several minutes, then disperse t h e t r e a t e d pigments i n c a s t o r o i l with t r i p l e r o l l m i l l . D i s s o l v e a l l ( B ) i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h h e a t i n g and add t o ( A ) i n t r i p l e r o l l m i l l . M o l d and c o o l down. F o r m u l a LP-205 Lipstick WJ R 55.0 4.8 2.0 4.0 15.0 5.0

Ingredients: Castor o i l C a n d e l i l 1 a wax Carnauba wax Ozokeri t e C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i de Eldew CL-301

A:

B:

7.4 2.2 3.0 1.6

Mica ron oxide Ye1 1 ow D&C Red # 7 A m i hope LL

Procedure: M i x ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 80C. M i x ( B ) i n g r e d i e n t s i n a t u r b o a f i n e & homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d . Add mixer u n t i ( B ) t o ( A ) and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m , t h e n p o u r i n t o m o l d s . Features: Eldew CL-301 i m p r o v e s s p r e a d a b i l i t y , colors i n lipsticks. F o r m u l a LP-203 SOURCE:

Ajinomoto U . S . A . ,

g l o s s and v i v i d n e s s o f

I n c . : Eldew CL-301 A p p l i c a t i o n s

Beauty Aids Lipstick with Mialvol Gel Raw Materials: A) Miglyol Gel B (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate) Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) Softisan 649 (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) Miglyol 829 (Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride) Imwitor 780K (Isostearyl Diglyceryl Succinate) Softigen 767 (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) Lanolin Oil Beeswax Candelilla Wax

Wt% 10.00 5.00 10.00 6.00 6.00

5.00

10.00 7.00 8.00

B) Rewopal PIB 1000 (Polyisobutene) Lanolin Wax Sodium Stearate Antioxidants

22.00

C) Color Fragrance

10.00

10.00 1.00

g.s.

0.50

Preparation: (A) is melted and stirred until homogeneous. (B) is melted and added to (A). (C) is added, and the mass is poured into molds. Formulation Z.ZB(1)

Creamy LiDstick Base (With AHA-Ester1 Raw Materials: Imwitor 370 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Imwitor 380 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Softisan 100 (Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides) Softisan 649 (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) Castor Oil Beeswax/Carnauba Wax Antioxidants

Wt%

5.00

8.00

28.00 15.00 12.00 15.00 17.00

q.s.

Preparation: All ingredients are melted together at about 75 degrees C. Formulation 2.2R SOURCE: Creanova I n c . : Suggested Formulations

83

84

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lip Stick with Softisan Gel Raw Materials:

A ) Softisan Gel (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1 (and)

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate) Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) Softisan 649 (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) Softisan 100 (Hydrogenated Cocoglycerides) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) White Soft Paraffin Hard Paraffin Beeswax

B) Color

4.50 2.50 5.50

27.00

16.00 9.00 14.00 10.50 10.00 1.00

Fragrance

Preparation: (A) is melted and stirred until homogeneous. (B) is added, and it is poured into molds. Formulation 2.2M(2) Lip Care Stick with SPF ca.6 Raw Materials: wt% A) Miglyol 840 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate) 11.00 4.00 Softisan 649 (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) 9.00 Beeswax 4.00 Candelilla Wax 2.00 Paraffin Oil 56.00 Castor Oil 6.00 Sachtotec LA 10 (Zinc Oxide) 4.00 Eusolex 6007 (octyl Dimethyl PABA) 1.00 Timiron Silk Red (Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide) B) Fragrance Antioxidants

q.s. q.s.

Preparation: (A) is heated up to 80 degrees C, and stirred until homogeneous. (€3) is added, and the mass is poured into molds. Formulation 2.29 SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Beauty Aids

L i p s t i c k w i t h T i m i r o n M P - 6 0 , MP-65 I N C I Name/Trade Name: Wt% Phase A : Castor O i l 7.00 D&C Red #7 C a l c i u m L a k e / C I S - O l l R u b i n e L a k e 1.50 D&C Red # 6 B a r i u m L a k e ( a n d ) R o s i n / C 1 9 - 0 2 2 L i g h t R u b i n e Lake 1.50 Phase B: Castor O i l 33.70 C a n d e l l i 1 a Wax 5.70 C a r n a u b a Wax 1.80 O z o k e r i t e Wax #77W 1.50 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax # 2 1 4 3.00 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e / M y r i t o 1 318 16.00 M i n e r a l O i 1 90 SUS/Blandol 2.00 O c t y l d o d e c y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e / C e r a p h y l 847 5.00 O c t y l Dodecanol/Eutanol G 5.00 H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n/OH1 a n 1.oo M e t h y l Paraben 0,20 P r o p y l Paraben 0.10 Phase C : Mica (and) I r o n Oxides (and) T i t a n i u m Dioxide/ T i m i r o n MP-60, MP-65 15.00 Procedure: Combine Phase A . S t i r w i t h a h i g h i n t e n s i t mixer u n t i l homogeneous. P a s s a c r o s s a t h r e e r o l l m i l l u n i 1 a g g l o m e r a t e s a r e r e d u c e d t o l e s s t h a n 25 urn. Combine Phase 8 . H e a t t o 80-85C w i t h Lightnin' mixer agitation, s t i r r i n g u n t i c l e a r . Add Phase A . Add Phase C , m a i n t a i n i n g a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d s p e r s e d . P o u r i n t o ambient t e m p e r a t u r e molds a t 72-74C. F o r m u l a AS1 - 9

____ Blackstar Lipstick I N C I Name/Trade Name: _ W _t % Phase A : Castor O i l 39.40 C a n d e l l i 1 a Wax 6.30 C a r n a u b a Wax 2.00 O z o k e r i t e Wax #77W 1.80 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax # 2 1 4 3.30 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e / M y r i t o l 318 17.70 M i n e r a l O i l 90 S U S / B l a n d o l 2.20 O c t y l d o d e c y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e / C e r a p h y l 847 5.55 Octyldodecanol/Eutanol G 5.55 Hydroxylated Lanolin/OHlan 1. l o M e t h y l Paraben 0.20 P r o p y l Paraben 0.10 Phase B: I r o n O x i d e s and M i c a / C o l o r o n a B l a c k s t a r C o l o r s 15.00 Procedure: Combine Phase A . H e a t t o 80-85C w i t h L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add Phase B, m a i n t a i n i n g a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Pour i n t o a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e m o l d s a t 72-74C. F o r m u l a AS1 - 7 SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

85

86

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Liauid Crystal Make-up Inqredients: Wt% A) Water 58.70 Arlatone 2121, Sorbitan Stearate (and) Sucrose Cocoate 2.50 Glycerin 4.00 B) Ultrafine Titanium Dioxide, Titanium Dioxide 12.00 Yellow Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 2.00 Red Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 0.40 Black Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 0.25 C) Xanthan Gum 0.15 D) Arlamol S7, Cyclomethicone (and) PPG-15 Stearyl Ether 20.00 E) Preservative, Quaternium-15 Q.S. Preparation Method: 1) Heat and stir (A) to BOC. 2) Blend (B) well at room temperature. 3 ) Slowly add (B) at RT to (A) at 80C with good agitation. 4) When the temperature of (AB) drops to 75C, add (C) with moderate stirring. 5) When (ABC) is uniform, add (D) to (ABC) and homogenize for a few minutes (until temperature drops to 65C). 6 ) Return to propeller stirring and continue stirring until temperature drops to 45C. At this point add (E) and any water lost due to evaporation. Switch to sweep type agitation and stir to room temperature. Formula CP1207 Water-in-Oil Make-uv Inaredients: Wt% A) Arlacel P135, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00 Arlamol 57, Cyclomethicone (and) PPG-15 Stearyl Ether 6.00 Arlamol HD, Isohexadecane 12.00 B) Atlas G-2330, Sorbeth-30 4.00 MgS04-7H20, Magnesium Sulfate 0.70 Water 60.65 C) Ultrafine Titanium Dioxide, Titanium Dioxide 12.00 2.00 Yellow Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide Black Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 0.25 Red Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 0.40 D) Preservative, Quaternium-15 Q.S. Preparation Method: 1) Heat and stir (A) to 75C. 2) Heat and stir (B) to 85C. 3 ) Blend (C) well at room temperature. 4) Slowly add (B) to (A) with good agitation. 5 ) After (A) & (B) are mixed begin adding (C) at room temperature to (AB) using propeller agitation. 6) Homogenize (ABC) for a few minutes and then switch back to sweep type agitation and stir to room temperature. Add (D) to (ABC) at any temperature below 50C. Formula CP1208 SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations

Beauty Aids

L i q u i d Foundation w i t h Extender W I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water H y d r o x y l a t e d L e c i t h i n / A l c o l e c 2-3 Phase B : M i c a ( a n d ) T i t a n i um D i o x i d e / E x t e n d e r W M i ca/Mi c a MRP M i c a ( a n d ) Red I r o n O x i d e / T r a n s p a r e n t Red M i c a ( a n d ) Iron O x i d e s / T r a n s p a r e n t Y e l l o w Ochre M i c a ( a n d ) B l a c k Iron O x i d e / T r a n s p a r e n t B l a c k Phase C : Propylene Glycol Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e / V e e g u m Phase D : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l C e l l u l o s e Gum/CMC 7H3SF Phase E : Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% Phase F : S u c r o s e C o c o a t e / C r o d e s t a SL40 M e t h y l Paraben D i s o d i um EDTA Phase G: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e D i c a p r a t e / E d e n o l 302 I s o s t e a r y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e / H e t e s t e r ISS S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e / A r l a c e l 20 C e t y l A1 coho1 Stearic Acid Oleic Acid BHA P r o p y l Paraben Phase H : DMDM H y d a n t o i n 55%/Glydant D e i o n i zed Water

48.92 0.10 4.84 4.61 2.40 1.90 0.25 4.00 1 .oo 4.00 0.15

5.00 1.oo

.so

1 0.20

0.05

10.00 2.00 2.50 1.25 1 .50 0.50 0.05 0.10

0.18 2.00

Procedure: Water Phase: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. Add Phase B, h o m o g e n i z i n g u n t i l no u n d i s p e r s e d p i g m e n t r e m a i n s . Combine and add Phase C . Homogenize and h e a t t o 9OC for 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 75C. Combine and add Phase D and Phase E , m a i n t a i n i n g homogeni z e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i 1 no u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l e s r e m a i n . Add Phase F . O i l Phase: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase G s e p a r a t e l y f r o m t h e w a t e r phase. Heat t o 75-8OC w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l homogeneous. E m u l s i f i c a t i o n : Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase w i t h homogenizer a g i t a t i o n . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e and h o m o g e n i z a t i o n f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 45C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Combine and add Phase H . Cool t o 30C.

SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c , : F o r m u l a EM3-39-1

87

88

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

L i q u i d F o u n d a t i o n w i t h Low L u s t r e Piament C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : D e i o n i z e d Water H y d r o x y l a t e d L e c i t h i n / A l c o l e c 2-3 Phase B : Low L u s t r e P i gment/Rona Phase C : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Magnesi um A 1 umi num S i 1 icate/Veegum Phase D : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l C e l l u l o s e Gum/CMC 7H3SF Phase E : Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 9 9% Phase F : S u c r o s e Cocoate C r o d e s t a SL40 M e t h y l Paraben D i s o d i urn EDTA Phase G : P r o o v l e n e G l v c o D i c a p r y l a t e D i c a p r a t e / E d e n o l 302 Isostearyl Stearoyl Stearate/Hetester I S S S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e / A r l a c e l 20 C e t y l A 1 coho1 Stearic Acid Oleic Acid BHA P r o p y l Paraben Phase H : DMOM H y d a n t o i n 5 5 % / G l y d a n t D e i o n i z e d Water

IN

W

O

52.92 0.10

10.00 4.00 1.oo 4.00 0.15 5-00 1.oo 1.50 0.20 0.05

10.00 2,OO 2.50 1.25 1 .50 0.50 0.05 0.10 0.18 2.00

Procedure: Water Phase: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. Add Phase B , h o m o g e n i z i n g u n t i l no u n d i s p e r s e d p i g m e n t r e m a i n s . Combine and add Phase C . Homogenize and h e a t t o 9OC f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 75C. Combine and add Phase D and Phase E , m a i n t a i n i n g homogenizer a g i t a t i o n u n t i l no u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l e s r e m a i n . Add Phase F . O i l Phase: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase G s e p a r a t e l y f r o m t h e w a t e r phase. Heat t o 75-8OC w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l homogeneous. E m u l s i f i c a t i o n : Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase w i t h homogenizer a g i t a t i o n . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e and h o m o g e n i z a t i o n f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 45C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Combine and add Phase H . Cool t o 30C.

SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.: F o r m u l a EM3-21-4

Beauty Aids

L i q u i d Makeup F o r m u l a t i o n - 2 Ingredients. MAS T y p e I A D e i o n i z e d Water Triethanolamine G1 y c e r e t h - 2 6 P i gment B1 e n d Isopropyl Isostearate Mineral O i l (and) L a n o l i n Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate Isopropyl Myri s t a t e H y d r o g e n a t e d Soy G l y c e r i d e Stearic Acid D i o c t y l A d i p a t e (and) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (and) O c t y l Palmi t a t e Cocoyl S a r c o s i ne L i t h i um S t e a r a t e Preservative B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y @ 12 rpm A f t e r A g i n g 1 Day, 2000 1300 A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks. 1 2 0 0 Y i e l d Value,

Dynes/Sq.

Cm.

Wt% 1.oo 53.00 0.75 10.50 5.29 9.06 6.50 4.00 2.50 2.10 1 .60

cps'

90

F o r m u l a pH: 6 1 A f t e r A g i n g 1 Day 6 2 A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks. 6 2 S t a b i l i t y Observations: A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ Room Temp A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ Room Temp

OK OK

A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week (a 6C O K A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 6'2. OK A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ 3 8 C . OK OK A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 38C A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ 50C. O K A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 5 0 C . S e p a r a t i o n

SOURCE:

R.T.

Vanderbilt Co.,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

2.10 1.oo 0.10 0.50

89

90

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lona L a s t i n a L i p s t i c k Wt% Go mpo n e nt: 13.0 I.M y r i t o l 318 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 6.0 M y r i t o l PC P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e D i c p r t e U i t r a L a n t r o l HP 2074 L a n o l i n O i l 2.5 IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 12.0 C a n d e l i l l a Cera 6.5 L u n a c e r a M M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 2.5 Carnauba Cera 1.o Cera A l b a 4.0 Lanol i n 7.0 1. o A n t a r o n WP 6 6 0 G e n e r o l 122N Soybean S t e r o l 3.5 0.05 C o n t r o x KS T i t a n i urn D i o x i d e 0.5 19.95 R i c i nus communi s C a s t o r o i 1 n . 8 . /q.s . Color pigments 1 I . H v d a a e n CMF C h i t o s a n G l y c o l a t e 10.0 I . M e l t - t h e components l i s t e d u n d e r I a t 80-85C and s t i r u n t i 1 t h e p i g m e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . Homogenise once w i t h a t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and h e a t up a g a i n t o 80-85C. 2 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase I 1 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r and s t i r f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t 8OC. Pass m i x t u r e t w i c e more t h r o u g h t h e t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and m e l t a g a i n a t a p p r o x . 8OC. 3 . F o r a p e a r l - s h i n e l i p s t i c k add t h e p e a r l i s e r and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Cast w i t h s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e m o u l d s . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o a p p r o x . 30C and keep i n t h e r e f r i g e r a t o r o v e r n i g h t . F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 94/056/151 _ Care __ Ld _s _ tick . Component: Wt% I . M y r i t o l 318 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 14.0 6.5 M y r i t o l PC P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e D i c a p r a t e U l t r a L a n t r o l HP 2074 L a n o l i n O i l 2.7 I P P Isopropyl Palmitate 13.0 7.0 Candel i 11a Cera 2.7 L u n a c e r a M M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax Carnauba Cera 1 .o Cera A l b a 4.3 Lanol i n 7.5 Monomuls 60-35C H y d r o g e n a t e d Palm G l y c e r i d e s 3.7 0.05 C o n t r o x KS Homobi t e c L5 T i t a n i um d i o x i d e 5.4 R i c i nus communi s C a s t o r o i 1 22.15 1 I . H y d a g e n CMF C h i t o s a n G l y c o l a t e 10.0 1 . M e l t t h e components l i s t e d u n d e r I a t 80-85C and s t i r u n t i l t h e p i g m e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . Homogenise once w i t h a t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and h e a t up a g a i n t o 80-85C. 2 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase I 1 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r and s t i r f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t 8OC. Pass m i x t u r e t w i c e more t h r o u g h t h e t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and m e l t a g a i n a t a p p r o x . 8OC. 3 . F o r a p e a r l - s h i n e l i p s t i c k add t h e p e a r l i s e r and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Cast w i t h s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e m o u l d s . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o a p p r o x . 30C and keep i n t h e refrigerator overnight. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 94/056/146 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

91

L u x u r i o u s Makeup (W/O) Inqredients: A:

. W-t.%

1.2 37.9

Veegum Water Magnesium S u l f a t e

0.4 5.5

8: T a l c Kaol i n Titanium Dioxide I r o n Oxides C:

1.5

5.0 3.0

15.0 8.0 8.0 7.0 5.0 1.5

Mineral O i l Light Polysynlane R i tachol Lanapene 70% S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n W i t c a m i de 5 1 1 Preservatives

9,s.

Procedure: Add t h e Veegum t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y u n t i l smooth ( f o r d e t a i l e d p r e p a r a t i o n recommendations, see Veeaum s m o o t h ) . G r i n d B and add t o A , m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add-A and B t o C and m i x u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Packing: T h i s f o r m u l a i s a f l u i d l o t on s u i t a b l e f o r d i s p e n s i n g f r o m a s t a n d a r d l i q u i d makeup b o t t l e . Comment s : T h i s f o r m u l a c o n s t i t u t e s an e c o n o m i c a l , c o l d p r o c e s s W / O e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i z e d b y t h e use o f Veegum. I t i s an e l e g a n t m o i s t u r i z i n g makeup f o r d r y s k i n . Veegum s e r v e s t o n o t o n l y s t a b i l i z e t h e e m u l s i o n and h e l p c o n t r o l v i s c o s i t y , b u t a l s o t o i n s u r e u n i f o r m c o l o r t h r o u g h o u t t h e p r o d u c t w i t h no c o l o r s t r e a k i n g o r s e t t l i n g . By f o r m u l a t i n g t h e p i g m e n t s i n t o t h e i n t e r n a l phase, where t h e y a r e suspended by t h e Veegum, t h e s t a b i l i t y o f t h e e m u l s i o n i t s e l f i n s u r e s t h a t no p i g m e n t s e t t l i n g can o c c u r . The makeup s p r e a d s s m o o t h l y w i t h a r i c h , n o n - g r e a s y f e e l , l e a v i n g a u n i f o r m pigment f i l m p l u s t h e e f f e c t i v e e m o l l i e n t s and m o i s t u r i z e r s o f t h e e x t e r n a l p h a s e . T h i s f o r m u l a w o u l d b e a s u i t a b l e base f o r a l i n e o f l u x u r i o u s makeups f o r t h e m a t u r e woman w i t h d r y s k i n p r o b l e m s . The CTFA a d o p t e d name f o r Veegum is magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1ic a t e . SOURCE: P o l y e s t e r C o r p . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

92

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ma k e u e p ___ emover (Wash o f f t y p e )

Wt%

__.__ Raw M a t e r i a l s : A c y l g l u t a m a t e CT-12

20.0

2-Alkyl-N-Carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethyl

Imidazolidinium Betaine Coconut f a t t y a c i d d i e t h a n o l a m i d e G1 y c e r i n A j i d e w N-50 L a u r y l monophosphoric a c i d T r i e t h a n o l ami n e Ethylene glycol d i stearate Citric acid P y r o t e r CPI-40 P y r o t e r CPI-60 Methylparaben Perfume Water

28.0 5.0 1.8 1.o 2.0 1.o 2.0 1.2 1.5 1.5

0.2

0.2 balance

Procedure: D i s s o l v e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and g l y c e r i n i n w a t e r and h e a t u p t o 60C, t h e n a d d l a u r y l m o n o p h o s p h o r i c a c i d g r a d u a l l y . Add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s a n d d i s s o l v e a t 70C. C o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h s t i rri ng. pH: 5 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 2600 c p s F o r m u l a MRW-08 Makeup Remover (wash o f f t y p e )

__Wt%

Raw M a t e r i a l s : A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 Water Methyl paraben

A-r

4.0

23.8 0.2

B: M i n e r a l o i l G l y c e r y l monostearate S . E . B u t y l paraben

70.4 1.5

0.1

Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) b y h e a t i n g a t 80-85C a n d c o o l down t o 30C q u i c k l y . M i x ( 8 ) a t 25C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add (5) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h h o m o g e n i z i n g . C o o l down t o 1OC w i t h s t i r r i n g . F o r m u l a MRE-06

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

Make-up Remover ( L i q u i d Crystal Gel ) MRJ-R1 c o n t a i n s much o i l and w a t e r . As MRJ-R1 uses g e n t l e a n i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t , we f e e l v e r y r e f r e s h e d a f t e r washing o u r s k i n . Raw M a t e r i a l s : A m i s o f t CT-12s A m i s o f t CK-11 NaC1 Water Preservative

A:

Wt%

(30%)

21.6 2.9 1.4 qs

qs

8 : PEG-I0 G l y c e r y l T r i s o s t e a r a t e (Emalex GWIS-310) PEG-20 G l y c e r y l T r i s o s t e a r a t e (Emalex GWIS-320) Mineral O i l (Silko P 5 5 ) ( v i s c o s i t y 29 C P S ) O c t y l dodecanol Preservative Fragrance

5.8 23.0 26.9 3.8

qs

qs

1 . Heat A t o 50-60C a d s t i r up u n t i l i t c o m p l e t e l y becomes uniform. 2 . Heat B t o 50-60C and s t i r up u n t i l i t c o m p l e t e l y becomes uniform. 3 . Add A s l o w l y t o B and s t i r u p . 4 . S t a r t vacuuming ( 7 0 0 mm Hg) and c o o l i n g down t o 30C. F o r m u l a N o . MRJ-R3

Make

UP

Remover

Raw Materials:. A : A c y l g l u t a r n a t e HS-21 Isosteari c acid B: Mineral o i l Emalex GWIS-320 Emalex GWIS-330

Wt%

2.2 6. 7

77.7 6.7 6.7

Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) and ( B ) a t 80C. Add ( A ) t o ( B ) w i t h s t i r r i n g Cool down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a No. MRJ-07

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U , S . A , , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

93

94

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mascara T h i s mascara e y e l a s h makeup cream a p p l i e s b e a u t i f u l l y f r o m an a u t o m a t i c mascara u n i t c o n t a i n i n g a b r u s h f o r a p p l i c a t i o n . The u r e t h a n e p o l y m e r ( A v a l u r e UR 450 p o l y m e r ) c o n t r i b u t e s b u l k and adherence t o t h e eye1 ashes a1 1owi ng f o r a 1ong-1 a s t i ng plump l o o k . I t a l s o e l i m i n a t e s t h e need f o r any o f t h e o t h e r gums s u c h as gum a r a b i c i n t h e p r o d u c t . L n S r e d i . e n t i l r ade--Narne~ WAS/, Part A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 59.50 2 . M e t h y l p a r a b e n NF 0.10 3 . H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e / M e t h o c e l 40-202 0.20 2.80 4. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ( 9 9 % ) 5 . DL-Panthenol USP 0.50 6 . U r e t h a n e P o l y m e r / A v a l u r e UR 450 Polymer 6.00 7 . PVP-K3O 2.00 Part 8 : 8 . I r o n Oxides/C33-7734 Cosmetic B l a c k 2.00 Part C: 9 . S t e a r i c A c i d / E m e r s o l 132 5.50 10.Baybet-ry Wax 1.80 1 1 . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e / P r o t a c h e m GMS-450 1.70 12.Beeswax, W h i t e 4.50 2.70 13.Carnauba Wax, P r i m e # I Y e l l o w , R e f i n e d F l a k e s 14.WW Gum R o s i n 1.80 1 5 . P r o p y l p a r a b e n NF 0.10 Part D: 1 6 . S i m e t h i cone/Mi r a s i 1 SM 0.10 17.Wheat Germ O i l / L i p o v o l WGO 0.10 1 8 . Phenoni p 0.10 0.50 19.Germaben I 1 Preparation Procedure: Part A : 1 . Add t h e d e i o n i z e d w a t e r t o a s u i t a b l e k e t t l e and b e g i n h e a t i n g t h e w a t e r t o 40C. Add t h e m e t h y l p a r a b e n and m i x u n t i l d i s solved. 2 . T u r n t h e h e a t o f f and add t h e M e t h o c e l . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m l y d i s p e r s e d and u n t 1 no lumps a p p e a r . 3 . Add t h e t r i e t h a n o amine and m i x u n t i l t h e gum i s h y d r a t e d and clear. 4. Add t h e P a n t h e n o l and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 5 . Add t h e A v a l u r e UR 450 p o l y m e r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l t h e mixture i s uniform. 6 . Add t h e PVP powder and mix u n t i l a l l o f t h e powder i s i n s o l u t i o n and P a r t A i s u n i f o r m . M a i n t a i n t h e t e m p e r a t u r e b u t r a i s e i t t o 75C j u s t b e f o r e c o m b i n i n g w i t h P a r t s B & C . P a r t 8 & C: 7 . Mix a l l o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C ( o i l phase) i n a s u i t a b l e k e t t l e and m e l t t o 75C. 8 . When a l l o f P a r t C has been m e l t e d , add t h e p i g m e n t o f P a r t B t o i t and m i x u n t i l t h e p i g m e n t i s c o m p l e t e l y w e t t e d / u n i f o r m . 9 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and b e g i n c o o l i n g and a t 50C add S i m e t h i c o n e , Wheat Germ O i l and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g t o R T . SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h S p e c i a l t y C h e m i c a l s : F o r m u l a t i o n A0002

Beauty Aids

95

M o i s t u r i z i n q M i l k Creme w i t h M o n a s i l PCA T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s a h i g h d e g r e e o f s u b s t a n t i v i t y and c o n d i t i o n i n g . I t helps t o minimize o r a l l e v i a t e dry s k i n condit i o n s w h i l e l e a v i n g a smooth n o n - g r e a s y a f t e r - f e e l . Part: A A

A A A

B B

B

B

Raw M a t e r i a l : Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 Water P o t a s s i urn H y d r o x i d e (45%) M o n a s i l PCA Monafax MAP 1 6 0 Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e

3.0 5.0 57.7 0.2 4.0

0.5

20.0 5.1

2.0

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and h e a t t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize. S t i r - c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 t h e n f i l l . Appearance: H i g h m o i s t u r i z i n g m i 1 k y creme F o r m u l a t i o n F-717 Pump D i s o e n s i b l e L u x u r i o u s Body M o i s t u r i z e r

__ Part: A

A

A A A

Raw M a t e r i a l :

Dei o n i zed Water Monalac MPL Monalac MO Monaquat SL-5 Glycerin

W 2 71 . 3 4.0 5.0 3.0 4.0

B

B

Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol 01 e y l A1 coho1

6.0 4.0 2.0

C C

Fragrance Preservative

0.2 0.5

€3

Procedure: Heat b o t h p a r t s (A and B ) s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Add P a r t 6 t o P a r t A and homogenize w e l l a t 70-75C. S t i r c o o l w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n t o 40-45C and add f r a g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e , e t c . A d j u s t t h e pH t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 t h e n f i l l . Odor and Appearance: P l e a s a n t l y s c e n t e d , pump d i s p e n s i b l e , m i 1 ky creme/l o t ion F o r m u l a t i o n F-730

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

96

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizinq Milk Creme Lotion F-712 with Silicone PLN and Hiqh Fracrrance Level Part: A A A A A

Raw Material: Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 Water Potassium Hydroxide (45%) Monasil PLN

Wt% 5.0 5.0 55.7 0.2 4.0

B B B

Monafax MAP 160 Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate

0.5 20.0 5.1 2.0

C C

Fragrance Preservative

B

2.0

0.5

Procedure: Combine ingredients in both phases separately and heat to 75C. Add (B) to (A) and continue to homogenize. Stir-cool, with minimal aeration, to 40C, add fragrance, color and preservative. Adjust pH to 6.0 then fill. Physical Properties: Appearance: Flowable high moisturizing milky lotion Formulation F-712 Flowable Moisturizinq Milk Creme F-713 with High Fraqrance Level Part: A A A A

Wt%

Raw Material Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 Water Potassium Hydroxide (45%)

5.0 5.0 59.7

B

B B B

Monafax MAP 160 Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate

0.5 20.0 5.1 2.0

C C

Fragrance Preservative

0.2

2.0 0.5

Procedure: Combine ingredients in both phases separately and heat to 75C. Add (B) to (A) and continue to homogenize. Stir-cool, with minimal aeration, to 40C, add fragrance, color and preservative. Adjust pH to 6.0 then fill. Physical Properties: Appearance: High moisturizing flowable milky creme. Formulation F-713

SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Beauty Aids

N o n i o n i c L i q u i d Makeup

IE g r ed.1 e n t s : A ' Veegum Keltrol Water Glycerin C i t r i c acid

Wt% 0.75 0.15 67.10 4.00 0.30

8: Talc Titanium dioxide I r o n oxides

5.00

C:

5.00 2.50 2.00

5.00 3.70

Ritachol C r o d a m o l MM Polysynlane Oleyl alcohol Cosmowax Tween 8 5

2.00 2.00 0.05

Preservative

9,s.

Procedure: Add t h e d r y b l e n d o f Veegum a n d K e l t r o l t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y w i t h t h e h i g h e s t shear a v a i l a b l e u n t i l s m o o t h . Add t h e g l y c e r i n and c i t r i c a c i d and m i x u n t i l s m o o t h . M i x B ( g r i n d i f n e c e s s a r y ) u n t i l homogeneous. Add B a n d A a n d m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . H e a t A a n d B t o 6 0 - 6 5 C . H e a t C t o 60-65C. Add C t o A a n d B a n d m i x u n t i l c o o l . Moisturizing Skin Milk n gredl en t_.s Polysynlane I ,P.M L a n o l i n Wax Stearic Acid Cetanol G l y c e r y l Mono S t e a r a t e PEG-200 Mono S t e a r a t e S o l u l a n 16 Triethanolamine Propylene Glycol Perfume & P r e s e r v a t i v e s Water

SOURCE:

P o l y e s t e r Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

w t Yo 6.0 4.0 1.o 2.5

0.5 1.o 1.5 1.o 0.3 6.0

ad.

q.s. 100.0

97

98

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil-in-Water

Hydro-Gel

f o r S e n s i t i v e S k i n (Paqe 1 )

The f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a t i o n i l l u s t r a t e s t h e o u t s t a n d i n g v e r s a t i l i t y o f A r l a t o n e 2121 compared w i t h c l a s s i c HLB-type e m u l s i f i e r s . Two d i f f e r e n t f o r m u l a t i o n s a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r t o o b t a i n an end f o r m u l a t i o n w i t h o u t s t a n d i n g l i g h t n e s s , smoothness and s t a b i l i t y . T h i s t y p e o f f o r m u l a t i o n , w i t h a l o w o i l phase and an e x t e n d e d amount o f bound m o i s t u r e , f i t s v e r y w e l l i n t h i s new c o n c e p t o f " g e l - c r e a m s " . O i 1-in-Water Hydro-Gel

f o r Sensitive Skin

ytv 50.0 50 0

Inqredients: A O i l - i n - w a t e r m o i s t u r i s i n g m i l k F41-5-16A B H y d r a t i n g g e l F41-5-168

I

Manufacture: M i x b o t h f o r m u l a t i o n s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 16,692 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e D, 6 rpm) Energy i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-16 The s e p a r a t e components a r e : H y d r a t i na Gel

Inqredien-;

wto/, 89.3 0.4

A Water Alpantha

10.0 9.s

B A t l a s G-2330

Preservative

0.3

C C a r b o p o l ETD 2001* D NaOH (30% s o l u t i o n )

to pH 6 . 5 - 7

Manufacture: 1 . M i x A a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . 2 . Add B w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . 3 . S l o w l y add C and s t i r u n t i l a homogeneous s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d 4. N e u t r a l i s e product by adding D . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 42,120 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e C , * C a r b o p o l ETD 2001 (Carbomer, INC1)-BF G o o d r i c h F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-166

SOURCE: I C I A m e r i c a s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

6 rpm)

Beauty Aids Oi

1-in-Water

Hydro-Gel

f o r S e n s i t i v e S k i n p a g e 2)

O i 1 -in - w a t e r .Moi s t u r i z i n g M i 1 k

Innredients: M812 F i n s o l v TN* E u t a n c l G* Laurex CS* Lanolin alcohol Jojoba o i l

A Arlamol

B A r l a t o n e 2121

8utylene glycol Preservative Water

Wt% 2.0 4.0 2.0 1.5 1. o 0.5

~

2.0 3.0 q.s 78.8

C Keltrolx

0.2

D Ethanol

5.0

Manufacture: 1 . Disperse K e l t r o l i n c o l d water w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . 2 . H e a t o i l p h a s e t o 75C. 3 . Heat w a t e r p h a se t o 85C. 4 . S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase w h i l s t s t i r r i n g in t e n s i v e l y . 5 . H o m o g e n i s e t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r o n e m i n u t e . 6. Allow t o cool w h i l s t s t i r r i n g moderately. 7 . Add e t h a n o l b e l o w 40C. 8 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 3 , 1 2 0 rnPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T , s p i n d l e B, 6 r p m ) E n e r g y i n p u t i s r e l a t e d to f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . * F i n s o l v TN ( C 1 2 - C l 5 A l k y l B e n z o a t e , I N C 1 ) - F i n e t e x E u t a n o l G ( O c t y l d o d e c a n o l , INC1)-Henkel L a u r e x CS ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l , I N C 1 ) - A l b r i g h t & W i l s o n K e l t r o l ( X a n t h a n Gum, I N C I f - K e l c o SOURCE:

I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u l a F41-5-16A

99

700

Cosmetic and Toiletty Formulations

__-_______---~ O i 1-in - W a t e r Mi 1k w i t h " N a t u r a l " L r e s e r v a t i - B wto/, 3.0 3.0 5.0 2.0 5.0 q.s.

Ingredients: A A r l a m o l HD Arlamol E Avocado o i l Wheat germ o i l * Sunflower o i 1 Anti -oxidant

B C a r b o p o l 5984* (3% s o l u t i o n ) R h o d o p o l SC* G1 y c e r o l A r l a t o n e 2121 Demi n e r a l i s e d w a t e r Propylene g l y c o l

C NaOH ( 3 0 % )

5.0 0.15 3.0 3.5 53.35 2.0 t o pH 6 - 6 . 5

D Ethanol

15.0

Ma1i u f a c t u r e : 1 . M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t h e h e a t e d w a t e r p h a s e a t 80C u n d e r m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s formed. 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d aqueous phase a t 75C w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add t h e h e a t e d o i l p h a s e t o t h e a q u e o u s p h a s e u n d e r i n t e n s i v e s t i r r ing. 4 . Homogense t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r one m i n u t e . 5 . Add p h a s e D a t +-50C a n d c o n t r o l p H . 6 . C o o l t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . 7 . Add h e a t - s e n s i t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 1 2 , 4 0 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e E , 6 r p m ) Energy i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . E t h a n o l i s i n c o r p o r a t e d as " n a t u r a l " p r e s e r v a t i v e . *Wheat g e r m o i 1 - S i n e r g a C a r b o p o l 5984 (Carbomer, INC1)-BF G o o d r i c h R h o d o p o l SC ( X a n t h a n Gum, I N C 1 ) - R h o n e P o u l e n c

SOURCE:

ICI

Surfactants:

F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-11

Beauty Aids

01 1 - I

n-Water

M o l s - t g r i s i ng M i 1 k

LMLKuQ.. A Avlarol HD P a r a f f i n o i l perliquldua* Almond o i l Avocado o i l V i t a a i n E acetate* Anti-oridant

2.0 2.0 2.0 i . 0 q.5.

3.0 2.5 q.r. 70.0

8 Arlatone 2121 Propylene g l y c o l Prescrvattva Water C Carbopol 934,

(2% w/w

D NaOH (10%

in s o l u t i o n )

WW ;

101

7.5

d.i.)

t o pH 0 . 5

M8nutacturo: 1. M i x the Arlatone 2121 i n t h o hertcd water phase a t 8OC under moderate s t l r r i n y u n t i l I hmgenctous dlspersion i s foraed. 2. Dlsporso the hydrocollold iii tho he.tad aqueous phase a t 75C w l t h aoderate s t i r r i n g . 3. Add the heated o i l phase t o t h e rquctour phase under Intenelve stlrriny. 4. ~ n o g e n i s ethe mixture I n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C for one minute. 5 . Add phase 0 a t -GOC and c o n t r o l pH. 0 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g aoderately. 7. Add heat-sensitive ingredients w h i l s t s t i r r i n g aoderately. Comaont : Viscosity; 14,070 nPa s ( B r u u k f i a l d LVT, spindle 0, 6 rpm) Enrryy input i s r r l a t e c i t o fin+: formulation v i s c o s i t y . * P a r a f f i n o i l p e r l i g u i d u r (Mineral O i l , IlUC1)-Werck VStamin E acetate (Tocopheryl Acetatc, INC1)-Roche Carbopol 934 (Carbonmr 934, INC1)-BF b o d r i c h

SOURCE: I C I Surfactant,.

Formulbtlon F41-6-0

102

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Powder Eyeshadow

wt%

I N C I Name/Trade N m Phase A : I t a l i a n Talc/Supra Talc B i s m u t h O x y c h l o r i d e / B i r o n LF-. z o o 0 Calcium S i l i c a t e / M i c r o c e l E N y l o n - l Z / O r g a s o l 2 0 0 2 UD N a t c o s Manganese V i o l e t 43001 U l t r a m a r i n e B l u e 43W1810 B l a c k I r o n O x i d e C33-5198 M i c a M-RP M a g n e s i um M y r i s t a t e M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben

9.70 20.00 1.oo 5.00 15.00 15.00 2.00 15.00 9.00 0.20 0.10

Phase 8 : O c t y l d o d e c y l S t e a r o y l Stearate/Ceraphyl 847 6.95 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 D i is o s t e a r a t e / E m e r e s t 2 4 5 2 0.50 C e t y l Palmi t a t e 0.50 T o c o p h e r o l ( a n d ) A s c o r b y l P a l m i t a t e / O x y n e x LM 0.05 Procedure: Combine t h e p i g m e n t s and f i l l e r s w i t h t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . P u l v e r i z e u s i n g a hammer m i l l t w i c e t h r o u g h a n 0 . 0 2 7 ' ' s c r e e n . Combine t h e o i l p h a s e . H e a t t o 70C u n t i l homogeneous. S p r a y o n t o batch whi l e agitating. Formula P4-25-1

Eye Shadow _.__ INCI NaW

T r a d e Name: Phase A : T a l c 141 Lithium Stearate K a o l i n 2457 C a l c i um S i 1 i c a t e / M i c r o c e l E Bismuth Oxychloride (and) Carmine/Bicrona B i s m u t h O x y c h l o r i d e / B i r o n 6-50 M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben ~

Carmine

Phase B : M i c a ( a n d ) I r o n O x i d e / C o l o r o n a P a s s i o n Orange

19.10 2.50 5.00 0.50 2.60 2.00 0.20 0.10 55.00

Phase C : M i n e r a l O i 1 ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l / A m e r c h o l L-101 11 . o o L a n o l in A 1 c o h o 1 / S u p e r H a r t o l a n 1.oo White Petrolatum 1.oo Procedure: Combine Phase A . P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i l l , p a s s i n g t w i c e t h r o u g h a 0 . 0 2 7 " h e r r i n g b o n e s c r e e n . Add P h a s e B w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Combine Phase C . H e a t t o 70C. S p r a y o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g b u l k . Pass e n t i r e b a t c h t h r o u g h a jump g a p . F o r m u l a P3-79-3 SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . ; S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

103

P r e s s e d Powder ia Lz: T a l c Supra A Nylon-12 Lecithin treated sericite L e c i t h i n t r e a t e d mica Amihope L L Zinc stearate Isopropyl lanolate Hydroxylated l a n o l i n Isopropyl isostearate E l d e w CL-307 Butyl stearate Germall I1 Methylparaben Propylparaben C o s m e t i c brown 3277 C o s m e t i c Brown 1 9 8 5 C o s m e t i c brown 1654 O&C r e d 3 0 l a k e F o r m u l a PP-EL01

Ra_w_Y3t-e-r

wt

QJO

53.54 10.00 10.00 10.00 5.00 3.00 2 , 70 1 .50 1.20 1 .oo 0.60 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.34 0.32 0.18 0.02

P r e s s e d Powder Raw M a t e r i a1 s : T a l c Supra A Nylon-12 Lecithin treeated s e r i c i t e L e c i t h i n t r e a t e d mica Amihope LL 21 n c s t e a r a t e Isopropyl lanolate Hydroxylated l a n o l i n Isopropyl isostearate E l d e w CL-301 Butyl stearate Germall I 1 Methylparaben Propylparaben C o s m e t i c brown 3277 C o s m e t i c brown 1985 Cosmetic brown 1654 O&C r e d 3 0 l a k e F o r m u l a PP-EL03 SOURCE: AJlnOmOtO U , S . A . ,

Wt% 52.49 9.80 9.80 9.80 4.90 2.94 2.65 1.47 1.18 2.95 0.59 0.29 0.20 0.10 0.33 0.31 0.18 0.02

Inc.:

E l d e w CL-301 A p p l i c a t i o n s

104

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

P r e s s e d Powder __

yt./,

Raw M a_ t e_ r i a~ l s_ : . T a l c Supra A Nylon-12 Lecithin treated sericite L e c i t h i n t r e a t e d mica Amihope LL Zinc stearate Isopropyl lanolate Hydroxylated l a n o l i n Isopropyl isostearate E l d e w CL-301 Butyl stearate Germall I 1 Methyl paraben Propyl paraben C o s m e t i c b r o w n 3277 C o s m e t i c brown 1985 C o s m e t i c brown 1654 O & C r e d 30 l a k e F o r m u l a PP-EL01

Raw M a t e r i a l s : A: Castor o i l C a n d e l i 1 1 a wax Carnauba war Ozokeri te Capryl i c / c a p r i c

53.54 10.00 10.00 10.00 5.00 3.00 2.70 1.50 1.20 I. o o 0.60 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.34 0.32 0.18 0.02

Wt%

60.0 4.8 2.0 4.0 15.0

triglyceride

7.4 2.2 3.0 1.6

B: M i c a Ye1 l o w i r o n o x i d e D & C Red # 7 A m i h o p e LL

Procedure: M i x ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 80C. M i x (6) i n g r e d i e n t s i n a t u r b o m i x e r u n t i l a f i n e & homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m , t h e n p o u r i n t o m o l d s . F o r m u l a LP-203B

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A , ,

Inc.:

Amihope LL A p p l i c a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

105

. . e u ~ ~_n_g..C_1ay_.Eace__M_ask l l ~ F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and Advantages: T h i s p r o d u c t removes imbedded i m p u r i t i e s w h i c h smooths s k i n , c l e a n s p o r e s , b r i n g s a g l o w and removes d u l l i n g c e l l s f o r a f i n e r t e x t u r e so s k i n has a r a d i a n t g l o w . Raw M a t e r i a1 s : Phase A : 1 0 2 M a g n a b r i t e HV Xanthan G u m Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) Glycerin A l o e Vera Gel P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Tween 60 M e t h y l Paraben

Wt%

4.5 0.2 63.2 4.0

0.5 1.5 0.6 0.5

Phase 8 : E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF Cetylstearyl Alcohol K e s t e r War K-48 P r o p y l Paraben

5.0 0.5 2.0 0.5

Phase C. C e r a B e l l i n a ( P y - 3 Beeswax) G r e e n C h r o m i um 0 x 1 d e Titanium Dioxide

4.5 0.5 2.0

Phase D . Titanium Dioxide 6 7 0 B e n t o n i t e NFBC

4.0 6.0

Procedure: H e a t a n d m i x t i l l homogeneous, Phase A t o 8 O C . H e a t and m i x Phase B t o 8 O C . H e a t a n d m i x Phase C t i l l p i g m e n t s a r e d i s p e r s e d . M i x Phase B w i t h Phase C , a d d BC t o A a t 8OC u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When e m u l s i f i e d , s p r j n k l e a m i x e d P h a s e D i n t o t h e AB&C p h a s e and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g t i l l t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d , a l l o w t o c o o l w h i l e m i x i n g . P o u r a t 55-6OC. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a a n d i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Changes i n c l a y c o n c e n t r a t i o n w i l l r e d u c e o r i n c r e a s e d r y i n g t i m e on t h e s k i n , w h i c h a l s o c h a n g e s t h e r e s p e c t i v e p u r i f y i n g q u a l i t i e s toward t h e s k i n . M o i s t u r i z i n g agents and/or o t h e r a c t i v e s c a n be added t o enhance t h e p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s p r o d u c t .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen I n c . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

706

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

R e j u v e n a t i n g S k i n Gel (Aqueous)

I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : A1 1 a n t o i n/Rona S o r b i t o l / H y s t a r CG

0.20 5.00 0.17 qs t o 100.00

Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate

Water,

demi n e r a l ized

Phase B : Carbomer/Carbopol 940 demineralized Water

1.20 38 8 0

Phase C : T r ome hami n e / T r i s Amino demi n e r a l ized Water

1.80 13.20

Phase D : L e c i t h i n , D i p a l m t o y 1 H y d r o x y p r o l i n e , PhenoxyWater T a l l O i 1 S t e r 1 , L i n o l e i c A c i d , Tocooherol. e t h a 01 Sodi um A s c o r b a t e , M e t h y l p a r a b e n , B u t y l p a r a b e n ' , E t h y l paraben, Propylparaben, Mannitol/ASC I I I / R o n a I

-

4.00

Procedure: D i s s o l v e Phase A . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 940 i n t h e w a t e r o f Phase B and homogenize. D i s s o l v e t h e Tromethamine i n t h e w a t e r o f Phase C . Combine Phases B and C and homogenize. I n c o r p o r a t e Phase A w h i l e s t i r r i n g and homogenize. F i n a l l y , i n c o r p o r a t e Phase D and homogenize a g a i n . Notes: Ye1 l o w i sh-opaque g e l V i s c o s i t y : 63,000 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d R V T , SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

Sp. C ,

Inc.: Formula 32-33/E

5 rpm) a t 24C

Beauty Aids

107

Rep1 e n i s h i ng M i 1 k C1 e a n s e r This cleanser i s formulated s p e c i f i c a l l y f o r f a c i a l skin. I t s g e n t l e c l e a n s i n g and f o a m i n g p r o p e r t i e s a r e a c h i e v e d w i t h o u t t h e use o f soap-based i n g r e d i e n t s and i t i s o i l f r e e . The Cremer01 HMG i m p r o v e s t h e r u b - i n o f t h e p r o d u c t and t h e t e x t u r e o f t h e foam and l e a v e s a smooth a f t e r f e e l . Added e m o l l i e n c e and m o i s t u r i z a t i o n i s c o n t r i b u t e d by t h e c a t i o n i c f i l m - f o r m i n g a b i l i t y o f Ucare Polymer JR-3OM w h i c h l e a v e s a l a s t i n g smoothness t o t h e s k i n d e s p i t e r i n s i n g . Glucamate DOE-I20 works s y n e r g i s t i c a l l y w i t h t h e o t h e r s u r f a c t a n t s t o b u i l d v i s c o s i t y , i m p r o v e foam and a c t as an a n t i - i r r i t a n t . D i r e c t i o n s f o r Use: Wet hands and f a c e . Work a s m a l l amount o f c l e a n s e r i n y o u r hands t o p r o d u c e a l a t h e r . Massage l a t h e r i n t o f a c e , and t h e n r i n s e . V i scosi t y : 2,500 cps pH: 6 . 8 - 7 . 2 Ingredients: D e i o n i z e d Water M i r a c a r e 2MCAS ( C o c o a m p h o d i a c e t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( a n d ) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ) Ucare Polvmer JR-30M (1% aaueous), (.P o l v_a u , aternium-10) Cocamide D E A Glucamate DOE-I20 (PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e ) Glycol D i stearate Glucam E-10 ( M e t h y l G l u c e t h - 1 0 ) Cremerol HMG ( H y d r o x y l a t e d M i 1 k G1 y c e r i d e s ) Preservative C i t r i c Acid

Wt%

35.0

35.0 20.0 2.0 3.0 1.5 3.0 0.5

q.s. q.s.

Procedure: I n a s e p a r a t e p r e m i x c o n t a i n e r , p r e p a r e a 1% s o l u t i o n o f Ucare Polymer JR-30M u s i n g t h e s t a n d a r d p r e p a r a t i o n method f o r t h i s raw m a t e r i a l . I n t h e main c o n t a i n e r , add t h e M i r a c a r e 2MCAS and w a t e r and m i x w i t h moderate t o s l o w a g i t a t i o n w i t h a sweep b l a d e . H e a t t o 70-8OC. When u n i f o r m , s l o w l y add t h e f o r m u l a w e i g h t o f t h e U c a r e s o l u t i o n t o t h e s u r f a c t a n t . When u n i f o r m , d i s s o l v e remaining ingredients i n t h e order l i s t e d , w a i t i n g f o r each t o d i s s o l v e b e f o r e a d d i n g t h e n e x t . Keep h e a t i n g w i t h a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n f o r 10-15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and a d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d t o 6 . 8 - 7 . 2 .

SOURCE: A m e r c h o l :

Formulation T74-52-1

108

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin CleameI T h i s i s an opaque l o t i o n f o r m u l a w h i c h i s s o a p - f r e e . Foaming and c l e a n s i n g o f o i l y s k i n i s p r o v i d e d by t h e Avanel S-35 CG, w h i l e a blend o f e m o l l i e n t i n g r e d i e n t s s o f t e n dry areas. Part: A

Name: Dei o n i zed Water Methyl Cellulose/Methocel

Wt%

Ingredient/Trade

A4M

B

D e i o n i z e d Water

C

Sodium O c t o x y n o l - 2 Avanel S-35 CG Sodium Benzoate T e t r a s o d i um EDTA

D

Petrolatum Octoxynol-3 Mineral O i l Lanol i n Alcohol 01 e y l A l c o h o l Cocamide DEA/Mazamide 8 0

E

I m i d a z o l i d ?n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l Dei o n i zed Water

F

Fragrance C i t r i c A c i d o r T E A t o pH 6 . 0 - 7 . 0

10.00 0.10 32.00

Ethane S u l f o n a t e /

45.00 0.20 0.10 5.00 1.30 1 .30 0.50 0.50 1.25

1 15

0.25 0.25 Q.S. Q.S.

Procedure: Heat t h e p a r t A w a t e r t o >8OC. D i s p e r s e t h e m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t h e h o t w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add t h e p a r t B w a t e r a s i c e o r as f r e e z i n g c o l d w a t e r . H o l d t h e b a t c h t e m p e r a t u r e <5C f o r 30-40 m i n u t e s t o g e t c o m p l e t e h y d r a t i o n o f t h e m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e . Add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r and h e a t t h e b a t c h t o 65-70C. B l e n d t h e p a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s i d e v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 65-7OC. Add p a r t D t o t h e b a t c h w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n t o form t h e emulsion. M a i n t a i n t h i s a g i t a t i o n a s t h e batch i s c o o l e d t o 40-45C. B l e n d t h e p a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s i d e v e s s e l and add t o t h e b a t c h . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6.0-7.0.

SOURCE:

PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n K-105

Beauty Aids

109

S k i n C1 e a n s e r T h i s i s an opaque l o t i o n f o r m u l a w h i c h i s s o a p - f r e e . Foaming and c l e a n s i n g o f o i l y s k i n i s p r o v i d e d by Avanel 5-35 CG and Mafo C A B , w h i l e a b l e n d o f e m o l l i e n t i n g r e d i e n t s s o f t e n d r y areas.

_ P a_ rt: A

I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: D e i o n i z e d Water Hydroxypropyl Methyl c e l l u l ose/Methocel T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA T r i e t h a n o l ami ne

Wtt

40-1 00

B

Sodium O c t o x y n o l - 2 E t h a n e S u l f o n a t e / Avanel S-35 CG Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB

C

Petrolatum L a n o l i n A1 coho1 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate/Mazon 159 C e t e a r y l Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20/Macol Cocami de DEA/Mazami de 8 0

D

Preservative Fragrance C i t r i c A c i d or TEA t o pH 6 . 0 - 7 . 0

Procedure:

47.70 0.10 0.10 0.05

32.00 10.00

124

5.00 0.50 1 .30 2.00 1.25 Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.

Disperse the hydroxypropyl methylcellulose i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e by m i x i n g f o r > I 0 m i n u t e s . Add t h e t e t r a s o d i u m EDTA and t h e TEA t o r a i s e t h e pH above 8 . 5 and i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n o f t h e h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e . M i x f o r a t l e a s t 20 m i n u t e s w h i l e h e a t i n g t h e b a t c h t o 60-65C. Add t h e p a r t 6 i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m a i n t a i n i n g t h e b a t c h a t 60-65C. B l e n d t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s i d e v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 60-65C. Add p a r t C t o t h e b a t c h w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n t o f o r m t h e e m u l s i o n . M a i n t a i n t h i s a g i t a t i o n as t h e b a t c h i s c o o l e d t o 40-45C. Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e , and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6.0-7.0.

SOURCE:

PPG Industries, I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n K-106

110

Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations

Skin Gel(O/W) with ASC I11 Raw Materials: Wt$ A Almond oil (Sweet Almond (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) Oil 7.00 Miglyol 812 neutral oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 4.00 OxGnex K liquid (Art. No. 108324) (PEG-8 (and)-Tocopherol (and) Ascorbyl Palmitate (and) Ascorbic Acid (and) Citric Acid) 0.50 Luvitol EHO (Cetearyl Octanoate) 4.50 Eutanol G (Octyldodecanol) 5.00 Cetiol V (Decyl Oleate) 5.00 4.00 B Sorbitol F liquid (Art. No. 102993) Tris(hydroxyrnethy1)-aminomethane (Art. No. 108386) 0.40 (Tromethamine) Preservatives q.s Water, demineralized ad 100.00 C Pemulen TR-1 (Acrylates/ClO-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) Water, demineralized

D ASC I11 (Art. No. 110154) (Lecithin (and) Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (and) Beta-Sito-Sterol (and) Linoleic Acid (and) Tocopherol (and) Sodium Ascobate (and) Mannitol

0.40 29.60

4.00

Procedure: Disperse the Pemulen TR-1 in the water of phase C and let swell. Incorporate phase B into phase C while homogenizing. Dissolve phase A and add small amounts to phases B/C during homogenization. Add phase D and homogenize again. Note : pH23C=6.3 Viscosity 21,000 mPas (Brookfield RVT, spindle C, 5 rpm) Samples contain as preservatives: 0.05% Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 107427) 0.15% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 106757)

SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Formulation 14-37/G

@

23C

Beauty Aids

11 1

Skin Reiuvenatinq Emulsion The Glucate SS/Glucamate SSE-20-based emulsion has an enriched oil phase with moisturizers and emollients such as Cremerol HMG. This composition provides a long-lasting softness to the skin. Kytamer PC has superior humectant properties. Viscosity: 6,300 cps (20C, LVT, 3, 12 rpm) pH: 5.5 to 6.5 Inqredients: Phase A : Glucate SS (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) Glucamate SSE-20 (PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) Promulgen D (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20) Glyceryl Stearate Cetearyl Octanoate Squalane Cremerol HMG (Hydroxylated Milk Glycerides)

Wt% 1.50 1.50 2.00 1.00 6.00 4.00 1.00

Phase B: Kytamer PC (Chitosan PCA) Deionized Water Glucam P-10 (PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether)

0.15

Phase C : Saccharide Isomerate Preservative

1.00

q.s.

1.00

9.S.

Procedures: Disperse the Kytamer PC with gentle heating (approx. 50C). Heat phase A and phase B to 75C and add phase B to phase A. Cool while stirring to 35C. Add other ingredients. Adjust pH. SOURCE: Amerchol: Formulation E952-101-2 Cleansins Emulsion for Towelettes (With

AHA

Ester)

Raw Materials: Imwitor 380 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Ampholyt JB 130K (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) Preservative Water up to

Wt%

1.00 1.00

q.s. 100.00

Preparation: All ingredients are mixed together at high speed with Ultra Turrax. SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Formulation 1.4F

7 12

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

S k i n Smoother Gel Concept S t a t e m e n t : A s k i n s m o o t h i n g g e l c o n t a i n i n g R i t a HA C - I - C h e l p c o v e r w r i n k l e s and f i n e l i n e s .

and T e n s i n e t o Wt%

Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 ( C a r b o m e r ) 3 . SD A l c o h o l 40 4 . Methyl paraben 5 . D i s t 11 1 e d / D e i on1 z e d W a t e r 6 . D i a z o l id i n y l U r e a 7 . R i t a PEO-3 (PEG-23M) 8 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 9 . R i t a HA C-1-C ( S o d i u m H y a l u r o n a t e ) 10.NaOH 20% 1 1 . T e n s i n e (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 1 2 . F D & C B l u e # 1 B 1% 13.Fragrance

70.15 0.50 10.00 0.10 10.00 0.15 0.50 1 .oo 2.00 1.10 5.00 q.s. q.s.

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Disperse item 2 i n i t e m 1 . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h i t e m 10. Dissolve i t e m 4 i n i t e m 3 and add t o g e l . D i s s o l v e i t e m s 6 and 7 i n i t e m 5 , a d d i t e m s 8 a n d 9 a n d a d d t o g e l . Add i t e m s 1 1 - 1 3 a n d m i x u n t i 1 uniform. F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 123-166

L i posome S e r u m Concept S t a t e m e n t : A h e a v y l o a d l i p o s o m e s e r u m c o n t a i n i n g R o v i some C , and R e f f e r m i n e f o r f a c i a f i rming a t t r i b u t e s .

Tensi ne,

Ingredients: 1. Distilled/Deionized W t e r 2 . Rovisome C (Magnesium A s c o r b y l Phosphate & L e c i t h i n ) 3 . T e n s i n e (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 4 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) 5. G l v c e r i n e 6 . R i i a PEO-3 (PEG-23M) 7 . DMDM H y d a n t o i n

Wt% 63.75 20.00 5.00 3.00 5.00 3.00 0.25

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n i t e m 1 . M i x u n t i 1 un f o r m . Add i t e m s 2 - 5 and i t e m 7 and m i x . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 123-558

SOURCE:

R.I.T.A. C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t on s

Beauty Aids

113

S p a r k l i n g Skin M o i s t u r i z i n g F l u i d w i t h Microcapsules T h i s i s a f l u i d c o n t a i n i n g a t t r a c t i v e m o i s t u r i z i n g beads i n a 1 i g h t , g r e a s e l e s s aqueous base w h i c h e x h i b i t s s p a r k 1 i ng c l a r i t y and smooth f e e l . I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: G1 y c e r i n H y d r o g e n a t e d S t a r c h H y d r o l y s a t e ( 7 0 % ) / H y s t a r CG Methyl paraben Part B: D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer/Carbopol

I

i n Gelatin M crocapsules/LipoPearls

Properties: pH: 5 . 3 - 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) a t 25C Y i e l d V a l u e : 140-200 C l a r i t y ( % T ) : 90-94

2.50 2.50 0.10 83.35 0 25

ETD 2 0 5 0

P a r t C: D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium H y d r o x y m e t h y l G l y c i n a t e / S u t t o c i d e A PVP ( ~ 3 o j D i s o d i um EDTA Benzophenone-4 Part D: Mineral O i l

Wt%

10.00 0.30 0.10 0.05 0.05

0.80

1,500-3,000

Preparation Procedure: 1. P a r t A : Using a g i t a t i o n , d i s s o l v e methylparaben i n a m i x t u r e o f t h e g l y c e r i n and H y s t a r u s i n g s h e a r . 2 . P a r t B : I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , d i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l ETD 2 0 5 0 p o l y m e r i n t o t h e v o r t e x o f r a p i d l y a g i t a t i n g w a t e r . When d i s p e r s e d , r e d u c e a g i t a t i o n and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Add P a r t A t o P a r t B ( C a r b o p o l d i s p e r s i o n ) . 4. I n a separate vessel, blend P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix u n t i l homogeneous. 5 . U s i n g p a d d l e - t y p e a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t C t o P a r t B . M i x t o produce a c l e a r f l u i d . 6 . U s i n g p a d d l e t y p e a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t D t o n e u t r a l i z e d f l u i d u n t i l microcapsules are well dispersed.

SOURCE: B , F .

Goodrich C o . : Foamulation

COO55

114

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

SuDer Moisturizinq G e l This clear gel provides moisture to the skin. The addition of Hypan SA lOOH in this formulation helps stabilize the viscosity of the product while adding to the clarity of the gel, eliminates tackiness and leaves the skin with an elegant feel. Lipo/DNS Completech MBAC-EA helps smooth out the skin and eliminate wrinkles in the area of the eye. Sequence : 1 1

Raw Material: Deionized Water Methylparaben

wtqi

21.75 0.25

2 2

Liponic EG-1 Hypan SA-100H

3

Carbopol ETD 2001 ( 2 % Aq. Disp'n.1

4 4

Deionized Water Triethanolamine, 99%

5

Lubragel MS

6 6

Deionized Water Unicide U-13

0.30

7

Hylacure, 1% Sol'n

5.00

8 8

Deionized Water DNS Completech MBAC-EA

8.50

5.00

0.10 30.00

1.00 0.60

25.00

1.00

1.50

Procedure: 1. Premix Sequence #1 with overhead mixer while heating to 80C until Methylparaben is solubilized. 2 . Premix Sequence # 2 and add to Sequence #1 at 80C on overhead mixer using medium/high agitation. 3. Add Sequence #3 to batch holding temperature at 80C. 4 . Premix Sequence # 4 and add to batch at 80C mixing with overhead mixer at medium speed until completely hydrated without (fish eyes) noticed (approximately 2 0 minutes). Cool to 70C. 5 . Add Sequence #5 without heating to batch held at 70C with medium speed on overhead mixer. Reduce temperature to 3 5 C . 6. At 35C add premixed Sequence # 6 to batch at low speed while cooling to 25C. 7 . At 25C add Sequence # 7 to batch at low speed. 8. Premix Sequence # 8 until into solution and add to batch while mixing at low speed with sweep blade. SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals, Inc.: Formulation No. 867

Beauty Aids

T-i m i r on-.SLl_k_Color

Cor r ec t oy

INCI Name/Trade Name:

Phase A * C e t e a r e t h - 6 ( a n d ) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l / C r e m o p h o r A6 Ceteareth-25/Cremophor A25 G l y c e r y l Monostearate, Pure C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e / L u v i t o l EHO M i n e r a l 01 1 L i g h t 9 0 S U S / B l a n d o l Cetyl Alcohol D i m e t h i c o n e / l OOcs. /Dow C o r n 1 n g 2 0 0 F1 u i d P r o p y l Paraben Phase 6 : Dei o n i z e d Water G1 y c e r i n e USP M e t h y l Paraben T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( a n d ) M i c a / T i m i r o n S i l k Green Phase C : Fragrance Phase D : I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l Deionized Water

115

w t% 1 .oo

1 .oo 2.50 7.00 3.00 1.50 0.10 0.10

73.05 3.00 0.20 5.00

0.25 0.30 2.00

115

Procedure: H e a t Phase A a n d Phase 6 s e p a r a t e l y t o 70-75C w i t h s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, t h e w a t e r p h a s e i s a d d e d t o t h e o i l p h a s e a t 70-75C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a g i t a t i o n . A f t e r m a i n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e f o r 1 5 m i n u t e s , c o o l t o 55C. H o m o g e n i z e . C o n t i n u e t o c o o l t o 45C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add Phase C a n d c o m b i n e d Phase D . C o o l t o 30C. Notes : The T i m i r o n S i l k G r e e n c o l o r c o r r e c t o r i s u s e d u n d e r makeup t o h i d e r e d b l o t c h y a r e a s on t h e f a c e . T i m i r o n S i l k G o l d w i l l mask b l u i s h d i s c o l o r a t i o n s , a n d c o m b i n e d w i t h T i m i r o n S i l k Red, p r o v i d e a b r i g h t e r appearance t o t h e complexion.

SOURCE:

Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a EM3-45-1

7 16

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Under Eye Gel Concept Statement: A skin smoothing gel containing Rita HA C-1-C and Tensine to help cover wrinkles and fine lines. Insredients: 1. Distilled/Deionized Water 2. Acritamer'940 (Carbomer) 3. SD Alcohol 40 4. Methylparaben 5. Distilled/Deionized Water 6. Diazolidinyl Urea 7. Ritasil 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) 8. Rita HA C-1-C (Sodium Hyaluronate) 9. NaOH 20% 10.Tensine (Wheat Protein)

Wt%

70.15 0.50 10.00

0.10 10.00 0 .1 5

1.00 2.00

1.10 5.00

Compounding Procedure: Disperse item 2 in item 1. Neutralize with item 9. Dissolve item 4 in item 3 and add to gel. Dissolve item 6 in item 5, add items 7 and 8 and add to gel. Add item 10 and mix until uniform. Formulation Ref. No. 123-7A S k i n Smoother Gel

Concept Statement: A skin smoothing gel containing Rita HA C-1-C and Tensine to help cover wrinkles and fine lines. Inaredients1 Distilled/Deionized Water Acritamer 940 (Carbomer) SD Alcohol 40 Methylparaben Distilled/Deionized Water Diazolidinyl Urea Ritasil 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) Rita HA C-1-C (Sodium Hyaluronate) NaOH 20% 10.Tensine (Wheat Protein) ll.FD&C Blue # 1 @ 1% 12.Fragrance

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Wt$

70.15 0.50 10.00 0.10 10.00 0.15 1.00 2.00

1.10 5.00

q.s. q.s.

Compounding Procedure: Disperse item 2 in item 1. Neutralize with item 9. Dissolve item 4 in item 3 and add to gel. Dissolve item 6 in item 5, add items 7 and 8 and add to gel. Add items 10, 11 and 12 and mix until uniform. Formulation Ref. 123-78 SOURCE:

R.I.T.A. Corp.: Suggested Formulations

Beauty Aids

Under-eye and Spot Conc-eaj

117

e r _Ma_keup

T h i s u n d e r e y e a n d s p o t c o n c e a l e r makeup c a n b e a p p l i e d e i t h e r f r o m a n a u t o m a t i c u n i t c o n t a i n i n g a b r u s h f o r a p p l i c a t i o n or f r o m a tube w i t h a narrow opening The u r e t h a n e p o l y m e r c o n t r i b u t e s t o the long l a s t i n g f i l m forming properties while providing i m p r o v e d a d h e s i o n t o t h e s p o t or a r e a b e i n g c o v e r e d . I t i s a l s o a good s u b s t i t u t e f o r t h e p i g m e n t s u s p e n d i n g c a p a b i l i t i e s o f c o l l o i d a l c l a y , so common t o t h e s e t y p e s o f p r o d u c t s

hci-cedie n t f Trade-.-[\lam-e L Part A: 1 , Deionized Water 2 . M e t h y l p a r a b e n NF 3 . H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e / M e t h o c e l 40-202 4 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 5 . D L - P a n t h e n o l USP 6 . U r e t h a n e P o l y m e r / A v a l u r e UR 445 P o l y m e r 7 . G l y c e r e t h - 2 6 / P r o t a c h e m GL-26 P a r t 8: 8 . M i c a / S e r i c i t e GMS-4C

9 . K a o l i n 2457 1 0 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 3 3 2 8 USP A n a t a s e t y p e 1 1 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 1 5 C o s m e t i c Brown 1 2 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 3 8 Cosmet c R u s s e t 1 3 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 7 3 Cosmet c Y e l l o w 1 4 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 7 5 Cosmet c Red 1 5 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 3 4 Cosmet c 81 a c k Part C: 1 6 . S t e a r i c A c i d / E m e r s o l 132 1 7 . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e / P r o t a c h e m GMS-450 1 8 . I s o p r o p y l Palmitate/Protachem IPP 1 9 . O c t y l d o d e c y l N e o - P e n t a n o a t e / E l f a c 1205 20.0ctyldodecanol/Eutanol G 21 . G r a p e Seed O i l / L i p o v o l G 22.Jojoba Oil/Lipovol J 23.Propylparaben P a r t D: 2 4 . C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 245 F l u i d 25.Tocopheryl Acetate/Vitamin E Acetate 26.Retinyl Palrnitate/Vitamin A Palmitate 2 7 . A l o e E x t r a c t / A c t i p h y t e o f A l o e Vera 28.Germaben I 1 P r e s e r v a t i v e P r o p e r t i es : C o l o r , Odor,

Appearance:

pH: 7 . 5 - 8 . 0 V i s c o s i t y c p a t 25C:

N t% 58.95 0.10 0.20 1 .oo 0.30 2.50

4.50

5.00

0.50 3.20 0.50 0.10 0.40 0.10

0.05 3.00 3.00 2.00 1 .oo 2.00

0.50 3.00 0.10

7.00 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.50

Pigmented, moderately t h i c k cream w i t h s l ig h t wax-1 i k e o d o r

5,000-6,000

SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h S p e c i a l t y C h e m i c a l s :

F o r m u l a t i o n A0003(Cont)

118

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Undereve and Spot Concealer MakeuD (Continued] Preparation Procedure: Part A: 1. Add the deionized water to a suitable kettle and then add the methylparaben. 2 . Heat the water to 35C to dissolve the methylparaben and then add the methocel. 3 . Continue mixing until the methocel is dispersed and no lumps appear. 4. Add the triethanolamine and mix until the solution is clear. Add the Panthenol and mix until dissolved. 5 . Add the Avalure UR 445 polymer and mix until it is dispersed and a colloidal white solution occurs. 6. Add the Glycereth-26 and heat to 75C. Part B: I. Mix all of the powders together and mill if necessary until the blend is uniform and no streaks or particles of pigment are present. 0 . Add this powder blend to Part A and mix until ready to combine with Part C. Part C: 9. Mix all of the ingredients of Part C in a suitable vessel and heat to 15C. 10.After all of the ingredients are completely melted, add Part C to Parts A & B and continue mixing until the emulsion forms. Part D: 11.Begin cooling the combined batch to IOC and add the cyclomethicone. Mix well to insure that the cyclomethicone is brought into the emulsion and is uniformly dispersed. Continue cooling and mixing. l2.Add vitamins at 45C and mix well. 13.Add aloe and mix well. 14.Add the Germaben I1 and continue cooling to room temperature.

SOURCE: BF Goodrich Specialty Chemicals: Formulation A0003

Beauty Aids

119

__---_

W a t e r - i n - O i 1 M i 1k --__ Inaredi ents: A : A r l a c e l 582 Arlatone T A r l a m o l HD Paraffin o i l Isopropyl myri s t a t e 8 : A t l a s G-2330 P r o p y l ene g l y c o l MgS04-7H20 Preservatives Water C : Perfume Manufacture: 1 . Heat A and B t o 65C s e p a r a t e l y . 2 . Add B t o A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y , 3 . Homogenise. 4 . Cool t o 35C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s h o m o g e n i s a t i o n . 5 . Add p e r f u m e . Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 22,000 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T , s p i n d l e E , Formul a t i on F44-12-1 O i l - i n Water T r o p__ ic M i

Wt9:

4.0 1.o 8.0 5.5 7.0 1.25 1.25 0.7 9 . S .

71 . 3 9.s.

6 rpm)

Innredi ents: . W_ t% A r l a t o n e 983 I .1 B r i j 76 1.o A r l a m o l HD 2.0 A r l a m o l S7 3.0 B : A t l a s G-2330 1.25 Propylene g l y c o l 1 .25 Preservatives 9,s. C a r b o p o l 934 ( a ) 0.3 Demi n e r a l i sed w a t e r 90.1 C : Perfume q.s. ( a ) N e u t r a l i s e t h e m i x t u r e w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n t o pH 6 . 5 Manufacture: 1 . Heat A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 7 0 C . 2 . Add A t o B w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 3 . Homogeni s e . 4 . N e u t r a l i s e w i t h a 30% NaOH s o l u t i o n t o pH 6 . 5 . 5 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y . 6 . Add C . Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 34,000 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e F, 6 rpm) T h i s v e r y l i g h t e m u l s i o n i s l o w i n o i l phase and e m u l s i f i e r c o n t e n t and g i v e s a s t r o n g c o o l i n g e f f e c t on t h e s k i n . F o r m u l a t i o n F44-12-5

A:

SOURCE:

ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

120

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W a t e r - i n - O i 1 - i n-W-r Face M o i s t u r i s ( 2 - S t e p Production)

WtS/a

Inqredients: P r i m a r y E m u l s i o n W1/0: A A r l a c e l 1690 A t l a s SCS 2 0 5 4 A r l a m o l HD A r l a m o l M812

3.3 3.0 15.0 14.0

B Water Preservative

64.7 q.s.

S e c o n d a r y Emu1 s i o n W1 / O / W 2 A P r i m a r y E m u l s i o n W1/0

(50/50) :

50.0 5.0 q.s. 44.6 0.4

B A r l a t o n e 2121 Preservative Water Keltrol*

Manufacture: P r i m a r y E m u l s i o n W1/0: 1 . S l o w l y a d d B t o A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y ( a t room t e m p e r ature). 2 . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 5 m i n u t e s . S e c o n d a r y E m u l s i o n Wl/O/W2: 1 . Heat B ( w i t h o u t t h e K e l t r o l ) t o 6 0 C . 2. Disperse t h e K e l t r o l i n B w h i l s t s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y (keep t h e temperature a t 60C). 3 . S l o w l y add A t o B w h i l s t s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . 4 . A l l o w t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i l s t s t i r r i n g g e n t l y . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 1 5 . 9 0 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T , * K e l t r o l ( X a n t h a n Gum, I N C 1 ) - K e l c o

s p i n d l e D,

SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u l a t i o n F 4 1 - 5 - 1 7

6 rpm)

Beauty Aids

121

W a t e r p r o o f S p e c i a l E f f e c t s Mascara IN

C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : C9-11 I s o p a r a f f i n / S o l t r o l 1 0 0 P o l y e t h y l e n e 6A Candel i 11 a Wax H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n/OH1 an

Wt% 3 0 95 11 . o o 4.50 0.25 I

Phase 6 : Pentaerythri t y l Rosinate/Pentalyn C C9-11 I s o p a r a f f i n / S o l t r o l 1 0 0

2.00 5.00

Phase C : M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben

0.20 0.10

Phase D : Zinc Stearate

1.oo

Phase E : P e t r o l e u m D i s t i l l a t e s ( a n d ) Quaternium-18 H e c t o r i t e ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e C a r b o n a t e / B e n t o n e Gel SS71

35.00

Phase F : P e a r l P i gment/Rona

10.00

Procedure:

P r e p a r e Phase B i n advance; combine i n a c l o s e d v e s s e l . Heat t o 65-70C w i t h c o n s t a n t L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c l e a r . Combine Phase A i n a c l o s e d v e s s e l . Heat t o 90-95C w i t h L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n . When c l e a r , add t o r e m a i n i n g phases i n o r d e r , i n s u r i n g t h a t each i s f u l l y d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e p r o c e e d i n g . Cool t o 30C w i t h sidesweep a g i t a t i o n . A t 55C, c h e c k f o r s o l v e n t l o s s and a d j u s t i f n e c e s s a r y .

Note:

P e a r l Pigment C o m b i n a t i o n s : A: D i c h r o n a BG 6 : C o l o r o n a Dark B l u e C : C o l o r o n a Magenta D : C o l o r o n a M a j e s t i c Green E: C o l o r o n a Dark B l u e

SOURCE: Rona/EM Industries, I n c , : F o r m u l a AN251