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Contents volume 11 (1987)
629
Contents
Coastal Engineering, Volume 11 (1987) Research Papers 2DH mathematical modelling of morphological evolutions in shallow water H.J. de Vriend (Emmeloord, The Netherlands) ....................................................................... 1 A numerical modelling study of low-frequency circulation on the West Florida Shelf C.K. Cooper (Ponca City, OK, U.S.A.) ..................................................................................... 29 Bethymetric and shear stress effects on an island's wake: a computational model study R.A. Falconer and L. Mardapitta-Hadjipandeli (BirminghRm~ England) ............................. 57
Discussion An approximate model for nonlinear dispersion in monochromatic wave propagation models, by J.T. Kirby and R.A. Dalrymple • Discussion - T.S. Hedges (Liverpool, England) .................................................................... 87 • Reply - J.T. Kirby and R.A. Dalrymple (Gainesville, FL, U.S.A.) ..................................... 89
Research Papers
Source generation on nonlinear gravity waves with the boundary integralequation method M. Brorsen (Aalborg, Denmark) and J.J. Larsen (Horsholm, Denmark) ............................ 93 The continuity equation for longshore current velocitywith breaker angle adjusted for a wave-current interaction C. Galvin (Springfield,VA, U.S.A.) .......................................................................................... 115 Long-term variation of longshore sediment transport Xie Shi-Leng and Liu Teh-Fu (Tianijn, P.R. China) ............................................................. 131 Long-wave transmission through porous breakwaters P.D. Scarlatos (West Palm Beach, FL, U.S.A.) and V.P. Singh (Baton Rouge, LA, U.S.A.) .......................................................................................................................................... 141 An energy approach to non-breaking wave-induced motion of bottom sediment particles M.A. Losada, J.M. Desir~ and J. Merino (Santander, Spain) ................................................ 159
Discussion Sediment by-passing across coastal inlets, by R. Sflvester • Discussion - P. Brunn (Trondheim, Norway) ....................................................................... 175 • Reply - R. Silvester (Nedlands, W.A., Australia) ................................................................. 178
Book Reviews Developments in Hydraulic Engineering, 2, by P. Novak - S. Vigander ..................................... 183 Design and Construction of Mounds for Breakwaters and Coastal Protection, P. Bruun (Editor)-R. Silvester ..................................................................................................................
185
Wave Energy: A Design Challenge, by R. Shaw - G.T. Hebenstreit ............................................ 186 Announcement ...................................................................................................................................
188
Research Papers Forces on a smooth submarine pipeline in random waves - Comparative study N. Jothi Shankar, H.-F. Cheong and K. Subbiah (Singapore) ............................................... 189 Stability of breakwater armour layers - Design formulae J.W. van der Meer (Emmeloord, The Netherlands) ................................................................ 219 Analysis of wave fields generated by a directional wavemMeer Y.C. Wu (Taiwan, Republic of China) and R.A. Dalrymple (Newark, DE, U.S.A.) ............ 241 Laboratory studies of breaking wave forces acting on vertical cylinders in shallow water C.J. Apelt and J. Piorewicz (St. Lucia, Qld., Australia) .......................................................... 263
630 Scaling the rate of wind-blown sand transportby parameterization of the turbulent energy equation S.A. Hsu (Baton, LA, U.S.A.) .................................................................................................... 283
Discussion Model and prototype tests for wave impact and run-up on a uniform 1:4 slope, by A. Fiihrb~ter • D i s c u s s i o n - P. Bruun (Trondheim, Norway) ....................................................................... 291 • Reply - A. F0hrb~ter (Braunschweig, F.R. Germany) ......................................................... 293
Research Papers Measurements of forces resulting from normal and oblique wave approaches to small scale
sea walls A.F. Whillock (Wallingford,U.K.) ............................................................................................ 297 Measuring waves with pressure transducers C.T. Bishop and M.A. Donelan (Burlington,Ont., Canada) .................................................. 309 An efficientfinite-differenceapproach to the mild-slope equation P.A. Madeen and J. Larsen (Horshoim, Denmark) ................................................................. 329 Sediment concentration measurements by transversesuction J.J.Bosman (Emmeloord, The Netherlands), E.T.J.M. van der Velden (Delft,The Netherlands) and C.H. Hulsbergen (Emmeloord, The Netherlands) ................................... 353 Calculatingbottom orbitalvelocitybeneath waves R.L. Soulsby (Wallingford,U.K.) .............................................................................................. 371 Wave power variationin the near-shore regions M.M. Purandare and P.A. Aswatha Narayana (Madras, India) ............................................ 381 Special
Issue
J O N S M O D ' 8 6 - - P.P.G. Dyke (Editor) Editorial .............................................................................................................................................. 391 Comparison of 2-D and 3-D models of the steady wind-driven circulation in shallow waters B.M. Jamart and J. Ozer (Libge, Belgium) ............................................................................... 393 Formulation of a continuously stratified sea model with three-dimensional representation of the upper layer G.K. Fumes (Nygaardstangen, Norway) and M. Murk (Bergen, Norway) .......................... 415
On extractingcurrent profdes from verticallyintegratednumerical models A.M. Davies (Merseyside, Great Britain) ................................................................................. 445 Tidal sea mathematical modelling: Current applicationsand future developments Y. Co~ff~,S. Courtier and B. Latteux (Chatou, France) ......................................................... 479 A Lagrangian model for wind- and wave-induced near-surfacecurrents A.D. Jenkins (Trondheim, Norway) ......................................................................................... 513 A swellmodel of the German Bight J.W. Dippner (Hamburg, F.R. Germany) ................................................................................. 527 Computation of the drivingforcesof wave-induced currents M.W. Dingemans (Delft,The Netherlands), A.C. Radder (Rijswijk,The Netherlands) and H.J. de Vriend (Delft,The Netherlands) .................................................. 539 Quasi-3D modelling of nearshore currents H.J. de Vriend and M.J.F. Stive (Delft,The Netherlands) .................................................... 565 Implementation and testingof a lateralboundary scheme as an open boundary condition in a barotropic ocean model E.A. Martinsen and H. Engedahl (Oslo,Norway) ................................................................... 603
Contents
Coastal Engineering, Volume 11 (1987) Research Papers 2DH mathematical modelling of morphological evolutions in shallow water H.J. de Vriend (Emmeloord, The Netherlands) ....................................................................... 1 A numerical modelling study of low-frequency circulation on the West Florida Shelf C.K. Cooper (Ponca City, OK, U.S.A.) ..................................................................................... 29 Bethymetric and shear stress effects on an island's wake: a computational model study R.A. Falconer and L. Mardapitta-Hadjipandeli (BirminghRm~ England) ............................. 57
Discussion An approximate model for nonlinear dispersion in monochromatic wave propagation models, by J.T. Kirby and R.A. Dalrymple • Discussion - T.S. Hedges (Liverpool, England) .................................................................... 87 • Reply - J.T. Kirby and R.A. Dalrymple (Gainesville, FL, U.S.A.) ..................................... 89
Research Papers
Source generation on nonlinear gravity waves with the boundary integralequation method M. Brorsen (Aalborg, Denmark) and J.J. Larsen (Horsholm, Denmark) ............................ 93 The continuity equation for longshore current velocitywith breaker angle adjusted for a wave-current interaction C. Galvin (Springfield,VA, U.S.A.) .......................................................................................... 115 Long-term variation of longshore sediment transport Xie Shi-Leng and Liu Teh-Fu (Tianijn, P.R. China) ............................................................. 131 Long-wave transmission through porous breakwaters P.D. Scarlatos (West Palm Beach, FL, U.S.A.) and V.P. Singh (Baton Rouge, LA, U.S.A.) .......................................................................................................................................... 141 An energy approach to non-breaking wave-induced motion of bottom sediment particles M.A. Losada, J.M. Desir~ and J. Merino (Santander, Spain) ................................................ 159
Discussion Sediment by-passing across coastal inlets, by R. Sflvester • Discussion - P. Brunn (Trondheim, Norway) ....................................................................... 175 • Reply - R. Silvester (Nedlands, W.A., Australia) ................................................................. 178
Book Reviews Developments in Hydraulic Engineering, 2, by P. Novak - S. Vigander ..................................... 183 Design and Construction of Mounds for Breakwaters and Coastal Protection, P. Bruun (Editor)-R. Silvester ..................................................................................................................
185
Wave Energy: A Design Challenge, by R. Shaw - G.T. Hebenstreit ............................................ 186 Announcement ...................................................................................................................................
188
Research Papers Forces on a smooth submarine pipeline in random waves - Comparative study N. Jothi Shankar, H.-F. Cheong and K. Subbiah (Singapore) ............................................... 189 Stability of breakwater armour layers - Design formulae J.W. van der Meer (Emmeloord, The Netherlands) ................................................................ 219 Analysis of wave fields generated by a directional wavemMeer Y.C. Wu (Taiwan, Republic of China) and R.A. Dalrymple (Newark, DE, U.S.A.) ............ 241 Laboratory studies of breaking wave forces acting on vertical cylinders in shallow water C.J. Apelt and J. Piorewicz (St. Lucia, Qld., Australia) .......................................................... 263
630 Scaling the rate of wind-blown sand transportby parameterization of the turbulent energy equation S.A. Hsu (Baton, LA, U.S.A.) .................................................................................................... 283
Discussion Model and prototype tests for wave impact and run-up on a uniform 1:4 slope, by A. Fiihrb~ter • D i s c u s s i o n - P. Bruun (Trondheim, Norway) ....................................................................... 291 • Reply - A. F0hrb~ter (Braunschweig, F.R. Germany) ......................................................... 293
Research Papers Measurements of forces resulting from normal and oblique wave approaches to small scale
sea walls A.F. Whillock (Wallingford,U.K.) ............................................................................................ 297 Measuring waves with pressure transducers C.T. Bishop and M.A. Donelan (Burlington,Ont., Canada) .................................................. 309 An efficientfinite-differenceapproach to the mild-slope equation P.A. Madeen and J. Larsen (Horshoim, Denmark) ................................................................. 329 Sediment concentration measurements by transversesuction J.J.Bosman (Emmeloord, The Netherlands), E.T.J.M. van der Velden (Delft,The Netherlands) and C.H. Hulsbergen (Emmeloord, The Netherlands) ................................... 353 Calculatingbottom orbitalvelocitybeneath waves R.L. Soulsby (Wallingford,U.K.) .............................................................................................. 371 Wave power variationin the near-shore regions M.M. Purandare and P.A. Aswatha Narayana (Madras, India) ............................................ 381 Special
Issue
J O N S M O D ' 8 6 - - P.P.G. Dyke (Editor) Editorial .............................................................................................................................................. 391 Comparison of 2-D and 3-D models of the steady wind-driven circulation in shallow waters B.M. Jamart and J. Ozer (Libge, Belgium) ............................................................................... 393 Formulation of a continuously stratified sea model with three-dimensional representation of the upper layer G.K. Fumes (Nygaardstangen, Norway) and M. Murk (Bergen, Norway) .......................... 415
On extractingcurrent profdes from verticallyintegratednumerical models A.M. Davies (Merseyside, Great Britain) ................................................................................. 445 Tidal sea mathematical modelling: Current applicationsand future developments Y. Co~ff~,S. Courtier and B. Latteux (Chatou, France) ......................................................... 479 A Lagrangian model for wind- and wave-induced near-surfacecurrents A.D. Jenkins (Trondheim, Norway) ......................................................................................... 513 A swellmodel of the German Bight J.W. Dippner (Hamburg, F.R. Germany) ................................................................................. 527 Computation of the drivingforcesof wave-induced currents M.W. Dingemans (Delft,The Netherlands), A.C. Radder (Rijswijk,The Netherlands) and H.J. de Vriend (Delft,The Netherlands) .................................................. 539 Quasi-3D modelling of nearshore currents H.J. de Vriend and M.J.F. Stive (Delft,The Netherlands) .................................................... 565 Implementation and testingof a lateralboundary scheme as an open boundary condition in a barotropic ocean model E.A. Martinsen and H. Engedahl (Oslo,Norway) ................................................................... 603