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Influence of wave dispersion on directional tsunami propagation
OLR (1988)35 (6)
A. PhysicalOceanography
Mesoscale Air-Sea Interaction Group, Florida State Univ., Tallahassee, FL 32306, USA. 88:3263 Michida, Yutaka, Masayuki Tokuda, Yoshizo Ueno and Haruo Ishii, 1987. A Tucker type ship-borne wave recorder. II. Comparative experiment with the visual observation and a buoy wave meter. Rept natn. Res. Cent. Disaster Prevent., Tokyo, 39:171-182. (In Japanese, English abstract.) Hydrographic Dept., Maritime Safety Agcy. of Japan, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104, Japan. 88:3264 Nielsen, Peter (comment), 1988. Discussion of 'Wave number of linear progressive waves,' by ChungShang Wu and E,B. Thornton. J. Wat Way Port coast. Ocean Engng, Am. Soc. cir. Engrs, 114(1): 115-116. 88:3265 Reason, C.J.C., L.A. Mysak and P.F. Cummins, 1987. Generation of annual-period Rossby waves in the South Atlantic Ocean by the wind stress curl. J. phys. Oceanogr., 17(11):2030-2042. The forcing wind field for 15°-51°S, 45°W-41°E was used to drive a linear, reduced-gravity model of the South Atlantic and southwest Indian oceans. In the South Atlantic, the response consists of long Rossby waves, which generally propagate southwestward and exhibit refraction of wave energy toward the Equator. Short Rossby waves with eastward energy propagation are generated in the small area of the Indian Ocean included in the model. Medium to short waves generated southeast of Africa reflect their energy into the Indian Ocean. The most efficient wave generators are the wind stress curl maxima (1) off the Namibian coast near 25°S, 10°E; (2) near the Agulhas Plateau at 38°S, 25°E; and (3) in the South Atlantic Ocean interior near 38°S, 10°W. Dept. of Geogr., Univ. of British Columbia, Vancouver, BC V6T IW5, Canada. 88:3266 Resio, D.T., 1988. Shallow-water waves. II: Data comparisons. J. WatWay Port coast. Ocean Engng, Am. Soc. cir. Engrs, 114(1):50-65. Predicted spectral shapes appear to agree well with those measured under storm conditions. Results indicate that, under such conditions, a dynamic balance between wind input and nonlinear fluxes dominates the shape of a spectrum and controls the total energy level and related energy losses in waves propagating into shallow water, even into depths less than 33 ft. Nonlinear flux estimates provide a quantitative means of evaluating energy losses, even
521
in nonequilibrium conditions, particularly important in modeling waves in complex bathymetries, in situations of mixed sea-swell, or when wave generation is taking place at very oblique angles to the coast, and in very shallow water where nonlinear fluxes can no longer maintain an equilibrium. Offshore and Coastal Tech., Inc., 911 Clay St., Vicksburg, MS 39180, USA. 88:3267 Sebekin, B.I., 1986. Influence of wave dispersion on directional tsunami propagation. Izv. Atmos. Ocean Phys. (a translation of Fiz. Atrnos. Okeana), 22(9):743-748. Inst. of Oceanol., Acad. of Sci., USSR. 88:3268 Slabakov, H.D., 1986. Assessment of the parameters of the autocorrelation and spectral functions of sea motion. Oceanology, Sofia, 16:74-83. (In Bulgarian, English abstract.) 88:3269 Smith, O.P., 1988. Duration of extreme wave conditions. J. WatWay Port coast. Ocean Engng, Am. Soc. cir. Engrs, 114(1):1-17. Statistical trends of the duration of extreme wave conditions, as characterized by hindcast wave information, are investigated at five sites along the U.S. coast. Identification of events and definition of their durations are based on a threshold for zero moment wave heights; the percentage exceedance above a specified threshold is roughly 30% of the average number of events per year, regardless of geographical location. The extremal type I distribution function is applied to model both the distribution of durations and of peak zero moment wave heights. The assumption of independence of duration from peak event intensity is proposed for estimating durations of zero moment wave heights above a threshold, given a peak zero moment wave height. 2130 Pony Farm Rd., Clayton, NC 27520, USA. 88:3270 Wtlbber, Chresten, 1986. [A numerical model for the investigation of baroclinic Rossby waves in the North Atlantic.] Bet. Inst. Meeresk. ChristianAlbrechts-Univ., 159:96pp. (In German, English abstract.) A linear, quasigeostrophic model describing windinduced, baroclinic Rossby waves in a closed basin is applied to the North Atlantic between 5 ° and 45°N, using the annual cycle of the wind stress curl as forcing function. Due to the large spatial scales of the wind field, Rossby waves are only generated
A. PhysicalOceanography
Mesoscale Air-Sea Interaction Group, Florida State Univ., Tallahassee, FL 32306, USA. 88:3263 Michida, Yutaka, Masayuki Tokuda, Yoshizo Ueno and Haruo Ishii, 1987. A Tucker type ship-borne wave recorder. II. Comparative experiment with the visual observation and a buoy wave meter. Rept natn. Res. Cent. Disaster Prevent., Tokyo, 39:171-182. (In Japanese, English abstract.) Hydrographic Dept., Maritime Safety Agcy. of Japan, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104, Japan. 88:3264 Nielsen, Peter (comment), 1988. Discussion of 'Wave number of linear progressive waves,' by ChungShang Wu and E,B. Thornton. J. Wat Way Port coast. Ocean Engng, Am. Soc. cir. Engrs, 114(1): 115-116. 88:3265 Reason, C.J.C., L.A. Mysak and P.F. Cummins, 1987. Generation of annual-period Rossby waves in the South Atlantic Ocean by the wind stress curl. J. phys. Oceanogr., 17(11):2030-2042. The forcing wind field for 15°-51°S, 45°W-41°E was used to drive a linear, reduced-gravity model of the South Atlantic and southwest Indian oceans. In the South Atlantic, the response consists of long Rossby waves, which generally propagate southwestward and exhibit refraction of wave energy toward the Equator. Short Rossby waves with eastward energy propagation are generated in the small area of the Indian Ocean included in the model. Medium to short waves generated southeast of Africa reflect their energy into the Indian Ocean. The most efficient wave generators are the wind stress curl maxima (1) off the Namibian coast near 25°S, 10°E; (2) near the Agulhas Plateau at 38°S, 25°E; and (3) in the South Atlantic Ocean interior near 38°S, 10°W. Dept. of Geogr., Univ. of British Columbia, Vancouver, BC V6T IW5, Canada. 88:3266 Resio, D.T., 1988. Shallow-water waves. II: Data comparisons. J. WatWay Port coast. Ocean Engng, Am. Soc. cir. Engrs, 114(1):50-65. Predicted spectral shapes appear to agree well with those measured under storm conditions. Results indicate that, under such conditions, a dynamic balance between wind input and nonlinear fluxes dominates the shape of a spectrum and controls the total energy level and related energy losses in waves propagating into shallow water, even into depths less than 33 ft. Nonlinear flux estimates provide a quantitative means of evaluating energy losses, even
521
in nonequilibrium conditions, particularly important in modeling waves in complex bathymetries, in situations of mixed sea-swell, or when wave generation is taking place at very oblique angles to the coast, and in very shallow water where nonlinear fluxes can no longer maintain an equilibrium. Offshore and Coastal Tech., Inc., 911 Clay St., Vicksburg, MS 39180, USA. 88:3267 Sebekin, B.I., 1986. Influence of wave dispersion on directional tsunami propagation. Izv. Atmos. Ocean Phys. (a translation of Fiz. Atrnos. Okeana), 22(9):743-748. Inst. of Oceanol., Acad. of Sci., USSR. 88:3268 Slabakov, H.D., 1986. Assessment of the parameters of the autocorrelation and spectral functions of sea motion. Oceanology, Sofia, 16:74-83. (In Bulgarian, English abstract.) 88:3269 Smith, O.P., 1988. Duration of extreme wave conditions. J. WatWay Port coast. Ocean Engng, Am. Soc. cir. Engrs, 114(1):1-17. Statistical trends of the duration of extreme wave conditions, as characterized by hindcast wave information, are investigated at five sites along the U.S. coast. Identification of events and definition of their durations are based on a threshold for zero moment wave heights; the percentage exceedance above a specified threshold is roughly 30% of the average number of events per year, regardless of geographical location. The extremal type I distribution function is applied to model both the distribution of durations and of peak zero moment wave heights. The assumption of independence of duration from peak event intensity is proposed for estimating durations of zero moment wave heights above a threshold, given a peak zero moment wave height. 2130 Pony Farm Rd., Clayton, NC 27520, USA. 88:3270 Wtlbber, Chresten, 1986. [A numerical model for the investigation of baroclinic Rossby waves in the North Atlantic.] Bet. Inst. Meeresk. ChristianAlbrechts-Univ., 159:96pp. (In German, English abstract.) A linear, quasigeostrophic model describing windinduced, baroclinic Rossby waves in a closed basin is applied to the North Atlantic between 5 ° and 45°N, using the annual cycle of the wind stress curl as forcing function. Due to the large spatial scales of the wind field, Rossby waves are only generated