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The art of perfumery, and the methods of obtaining the odors of plants, &c., &c.
BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.
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in its parts, and as cheap in its construction~ as that commonly era. ployed. By order of the Committee: WILI~IA~t th~II~TON, Actuary: Sub-committee of Examination : Washington Jones, S. Lloyd Wiegand, Emile Geyelin, Robert H. Lamborn. I'hiladc]l)hia , January 19th, 1867.
TItE AI~T 0~F PERFUMERY, and the Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants, &c., &c., with an appendix on preparing Artificial :Fruit, Essences, &c. By G. W. Septimus Piesse. Second American, from the third London edition. Lindsay & Blakiston, Philadelphia, 1867. The above work may be regarded as a hand-book and dictionary for the practical perfumer, offering him a vast amount of information as to the source and preparation of his ingredients, and many receipts and directions for their judicious combination; together with a theoretical discussion on odors and perfumery in general, by way of an introduction. With regard to this theoretical portion, we think that little can be said in commendation, though this, perhaps, is less the fault of the author than of the subject. About tile c~use of smell we know next to nothing ; theorizing is therefore dangerous, because unguided. The particular theory here discussed and advocated, is that of an analogy between odor and music, similar to that which exists between light and sound. This is peculiarly unfortunate, for the little knowledge which we do possess as to odor, points in quite another direction. Heat, light and sound are all affections, or strictly, motions of matter, all and any of which, in all their individual variations, may exist in the same body in succession, without necessity of change in its material. Thus an iron wire may vibrate in succession a thousand different notes, may then emit a thousand various temperatures, and may, lastly, be caused to radiate every sort of light, and yet be nothing but an iron wire from beginning to end; but where is the body that will, unchanged, give us more than one perfume ? The reason is clear. Perfume is not tile result of a motion, which any mass of matter may assume, but the consequence of some special property, some peculiar form and arrangement of atoms (we know not what) which belongs in each case to a special substancc, and cannot
424
BIBLIOGRAPIIICAL NOTICES.
be transferred to or fl'om another. To arrange "smells," therefore, on a musical scale is a mere matter of fanciful and far-fetched analogy, without the shadow of ~ support in scientific fact. :Far worse is it to confuse known actions ~'ith assumed nonentities, and to compare the mutual absorption of volatile acids and alkalies (which, becoming solid, in place of being gaseous, fail for tMs reason to affect the sense of smell) with tile phenomena of "interference" in light and sound. These theories, we are happy to say, however, occupy but a small space in the present work, and whatever is deficient in them is largely made up in the subsequent portions, which are filled with exactly what those purchasing such a book would look for and expect to find : facts and not faneies, statistics, not similies. "~Vefirst find, in alphabetical order, full descriptions of all the perfume )~ielding substances, and their mode of preparation, embodying the various improvements which have been made in tlfis direction, of late years. We have then, directions for the manufacture of smelling salts, perfumes, essences, soaps, cosmetics, oils, &e., &e., with every detail. Among these we notice some novelties, which are curious. Thus, at page 340, we read of a cosmetic which, rubbed upon the cheek or lips, though colorless at first, gradually turns to a deep rose color, from the action of the air. Among many other valuable suggestions, we note the following, on page 363. Sponge can decompose soap and clog itself with the grease. When rendered useless by this means, it may be cleaned by soaking for twenty-four hours in a lye of soda, and after rinsing and a second ~'ashing in water with a little muriatie acid, will be restored to perfect condition. Of the typography anti binding we cannot speak too highly. It is ~verything that the most fastidious author or reader could ask. It is~ indeed, such as would do credit to a merely ornamental publication. WILL'S TAnLES F01t. QUALITATIVE ANALYSIS. Translated by Prof. Charles F. Himes, Ph.D., of Dickir~son College, Carlisle, Penna.: ttcnry C. :Baird. TltE~E are some books, like some men, whom " t o name is to praise ;" and, moreover, in both eases, the exteni~ of the fame and the simple goodness of the subject, sometimes makes the duty of the critic far from easy. Everybody knows the great and good. man. How shall we rehearse his virtues and not be trite, especially if his good. heSS has kept him out of mischief and exciting incidents ? Somewha~
4~3
in its parts, and as cheap in its construction~ as that commonly era. ployed. By order of the Committee: WILI~IA~t th~II~TON, Actuary: Sub-committee of Examination : Washington Jones, S. Lloyd Wiegand, Emile Geyelin, Robert H. Lamborn. I'hiladc]l)hia , January 19th, 1867.
TItE AI~T 0~F PERFUMERY, and the Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants, &c., &c., with an appendix on preparing Artificial :Fruit, Essences, &c. By G. W. Septimus Piesse. Second American, from the third London edition. Lindsay & Blakiston, Philadelphia, 1867. The above work may be regarded as a hand-book and dictionary for the practical perfumer, offering him a vast amount of information as to the source and preparation of his ingredients, and many receipts and directions for their judicious combination; together with a theoretical discussion on odors and perfumery in general, by way of an introduction. With regard to this theoretical portion, we think that little can be said in commendation, though this, perhaps, is less the fault of the author than of the subject. About tile c~use of smell we know next to nothing ; theorizing is therefore dangerous, because unguided. The particular theory here discussed and advocated, is that of an analogy between odor and music, similar to that which exists between light and sound. This is peculiarly unfortunate, for the little knowledge which we do possess as to odor, points in quite another direction. Heat, light and sound are all affections, or strictly, motions of matter, all and any of which, in all their individual variations, may exist in the same body in succession, without necessity of change in its material. Thus an iron wire may vibrate in succession a thousand different notes, may then emit a thousand various temperatures, and may, lastly, be caused to radiate every sort of light, and yet be nothing but an iron wire from beginning to end; but where is the body that will, unchanged, give us more than one perfume ? The reason is clear. Perfume is not tile result of a motion, which any mass of matter may assume, but the consequence of some special property, some peculiar form and arrangement of atoms (we know not what) which belongs in each case to a special substancc, and cannot
424
BIBLIOGRAPIIICAL NOTICES.
be transferred to or fl'om another. To arrange "smells," therefore, on a musical scale is a mere matter of fanciful and far-fetched analogy, without the shadow of ~ support in scientific fact. :Far worse is it to confuse known actions ~'ith assumed nonentities, and to compare the mutual absorption of volatile acids and alkalies (which, becoming solid, in place of being gaseous, fail for tMs reason to affect the sense of smell) with tile phenomena of "interference" in light and sound. These theories, we are happy to say, however, occupy but a small space in the present work, and whatever is deficient in them is largely made up in the subsequent portions, which are filled with exactly what those purchasing such a book would look for and expect to find : facts and not faneies, statistics, not similies. "~Vefirst find, in alphabetical order, full descriptions of all the perfume )~ielding substances, and their mode of preparation, embodying the various improvements which have been made in tlfis direction, of late years. We have then, directions for the manufacture of smelling salts, perfumes, essences, soaps, cosmetics, oils, &e., &e., with every detail. Among these we notice some novelties, which are curious. Thus, at page 340, we read of a cosmetic which, rubbed upon the cheek or lips, though colorless at first, gradually turns to a deep rose color, from the action of the air. Among many other valuable suggestions, we note the following, on page 363. Sponge can decompose soap and clog itself with the grease. When rendered useless by this means, it may be cleaned by soaking for twenty-four hours in a lye of soda, and after rinsing and a second ~'ashing in water with a little muriatie acid, will be restored to perfect condition. Of the typography anti binding we cannot speak too highly. It is ~verything that the most fastidious author or reader could ask. It is~ indeed, such as would do credit to a merely ornamental publication. WILL'S TAnLES F01t. QUALITATIVE ANALYSIS. Translated by Prof. Charles F. Himes, Ph.D., of Dickir~son College, Carlisle, Penna.: ttcnry C. :Baird. TltE~E are some books, like some men, whom " t o name is to praise ;" and, moreover, in both eases, the exteni~ of the fame and the simple goodness of the subject, sometimes makes the duty of the critic far from easy. Everybody knows the great and good. man. How shall we rehearse his virtues and not be trite, especially if his good. heSS has kept him out of mischief and exciting incidents ? Somewha~