A model for assessing economic and environmental sustainability dimensions of a fashion supply chain and a case study

9th IFAC Conference on Manufacturing Modelling, Management and 9th IFAC 9th IFAC Conference Conference on on Manufacturing Manufacturing Modelling, Modelling, Management Management and and Control Available online at www.sciencedirect.com 9th IFAC Conference Modelling, Management and 9th IFAC Conference on on Manufacturing Manufacturing Modelling, Management and Control Control 9th IFAC Conference on Manufacturing Modelling, Management and Berlin, Germany, August 28-30, 2019 Control Control Berlin, Germany, August 28-30, 2019 9th IFAC Conference on Manufacturing Modelling, Management and Berlin, Germany, August 28-30, 2019 Control Berlin, Berlin, Germany, Germany, August August 28-30, 28-30, 2019 2019 Control Berlin, Germany, August 28-30, 2019 Berlin, Germany, August 28-30, 2019

ScienceDirect

IFAC PapersOnLine 52-13 (2019) 361–366

A model for assessing economic and environmental sustainability dimensions of aa A model for assessing economic and environmental sustainability dimensions of A model for assessing economic and environmental sustainability dimensions of aa A model for assessing economic and environmental sustainability dimensions of fashion supply chain and aa case study A model for assessing economic and environmental sustainability dimensions of fashion supply chain and case study A model for assessing fashion economic and environmental sustainability dimensions of aa supply chain and aa case study fashion supply chain and case study fashionLetizia supply chain andLazzari case**study study Eleonora Bottani* Tebaldi* Isabella Giorgia Casella* fashion supply chain and aa case

Eleonora Bottani* Bottani* Letizia Letizia Tebaldi* Tebaldi* Isabella Isabella Lazzari Lazzari ** ** Giorgia Giorgia Casella* Casella* Eleonora Eleonora Bottani* Letizia Tebaldi* Isabella Lazzari ** Giorgia Casella* Eleonora Bottani* Letizia Tebaldi* Isabella Lazzari ** Giorgia Casella* Eleonora Bottani* Letizia Tebaldi* Isabella Lazzari ** Giorgia Casella* ** University of Parma, Department of Engineering and Architecture, Viale delle Scienze 181/A, 43124, Parma, Italy (e-mail: Eleonora Bottani* Letizia Tebaldi* Isabella Lazzari ** Giorgia Casella* University of Parma, Department of Engineering and Architecture, Viale delle Scienze 181/A, 43124, Parma, Parma, Italy Italy (e-mail: (e-mail: ** University of Parma, Department of Engineering and Architecture, Viale delle Scienze 181/A, 43124, of Parma, Department of Engineering and Architecture, Viale delle Scienze 181/A, 43124, Parma, Italy (e-mail: [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]) ** University University of Parma, Department of Engineering and Architecture, Viale delle Scienze 181/A, 43124, Parma, Italy (e-mail: [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]) University of Parma, Department of Engineering and Architecture, Viale delle Scienze 181/A, 43124, Parma, Italy (e-mail: [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]) [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]) ** Oiki Acciai Inossidabili S.p.A., Via Paradigna 95/A, 43122, Parma, Italy (e-mail: [email protected]) * University of Parma, Department of Engineering and Architecture, Viale delle Scienze 181/A, 43124, Parma, Italy (e-mail: [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]) ** Oiki Oiki Acciai Acciai Inossidabili Inossidabili S.p.A., Via Via Paradigna [email protected], 95/A, 43122, 43122, Parma, Parma, Italy Italy (e-mail: [email protected]) [email protected]) [email protected], [email protected]) ** S.p.A., 95/A, (e-mail: ** Oiki Acciai Inossidabili S.p.A., Via Paradigna 95/A, 43122, Parma, Italy (e-mail: [email protected]) [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]) ** Oiki Acciai Inossidabili S.p.A., Via Paradigna 95/A, 43122, Parma, Italy (e-mail: [email protected]) ** Oiki Acciai Inossidabili S.p.A., Via Paradigna 95/A, 43122, Parma, Italy (e-mail: [email protected]) ** OikiAbstract: Acciai Inossidabili S.p.A., Via Paradigna 95/A, Parma,issues Italy (e-mail: [email protected]) by 43122, sustainability in the the context context of supply supply chains, chains, the the Abstract: Due Due to to the the recent recent attention attention gained gained by by sustainability issues in in of Abstract: Due to the recent attention gained sustainability issues the context of supply chains, the Abstract: Due to the recent attention gained by sustainability issues in the context of supply chains, the aim of this study is to present a model developed under Microsoft Excel™ for the assessment of Abstract: Due to the recent attention gained by sustainability issues in the context of supply chains, the aim of of this thisDue study is to torecent present model developed under Microsoft Microsoft Excel™ for the the assessment of the the Abstract: to the attention gained by sustainability issues in the context of supply chains, aim study is present aaa model developed under Excel™ for assessment of aim of thisand study is torecent present developed under Excel™ for the assessment of the economic and environmental dimensions of fashion supplyMicrosoft chain, sector thatcontext deserves particular attention Abstract: Due to the attention gained by sustainability issues in the of particular supply chains, aim of study is aa model model developed under Microsoft Excel™ for assessment of economic environmental dimensions of aa fashion fashion supply chain, sector that deserves attention aim of this thisand study is to to present present model of developed under Microsoft Excel™ for the the particular assessment of the the economic environmental dimensions a supply chain, sector that deserves attention economic and environmental dimensions of a fashion supply chain, sector that deserves particular attention being one of the most polluting in the world. The assessment of the economic dimension is made through aim ofone thisand study is topolluting present a model developed under Microsoft Excel™ for the particular assessment of the economic environmental dimensions of supply sector that attention being of the most in the world. The assessment of the economic dimension is made through economic and environmental dimensions of aa fashion fashion supply chain, chain, sector that deserves deserves particular attention being one of the most polluting in the world. The assessment of the economic dimension is made through being one of the polluting in the world. The assessment of thesector economic dimension is madeattention through the evaluation evaluation of most the total total costdimensions incurred inof each process of the thechain, supply chain,that while the environmental environmental aspect economic and environmental a fashion supply deserves particular being one most polluting in The assessment of dimension is the of the cost incurred in each process of supply chain, while the aspect being one of of the the most polluting in the the world. world. The assessment of the the economic economic dimension is made made through through the evaluation of the total cost incurred in each process of the supply chain, while the environmental aspect the evaluation of the total cost incurred in each process of the supply chain, while the environmental aspect is evaluated in terms of the carbon dioxide emissions generated. Specifically, in this paper the modelling being one of the most polluting in the world. The assessment of the economic dimension is made through the evaluation of the cost incurred in process of chain, the environmental aspect is in terms of the carbon dioxide emissions Specifically, in this paper the modelling theevaluated evaluation of the total total cost incurred in each each processgenerated. of the the supply supply chain, while while the environmental aspect is in terms of the dioxide emissions generated. in this paper the modelling is evaluated in terms of the carbon dioxide emissions generated. Specifically, in this paper the modelling of evaluated the warehouse function iscarbon detailed. To test the effectiveness ofSpecifically, thechain, modelwhile a case case study is carried carried out on the evaluation of the total cost incurred in each process of the supply the environmental aspect is evaluated in terms of the carbon dioxide emissions generated. Specifically, in this paper the modelling of the warehouse function is detailed. To test the effectiveness of the model a study is out is in terms of theis dioxide emissions generated. in this paper the modelling of evaluated the warehouse warehouse function iscarbon detailed. To test test the effectiveness effectiveness ofSpecifically, the model model aa case case study is carried carried out on on of the function detailed. To the of the study is out on aa fashion fashion company based in the North of Italy; the key results are reported in the manuscript, showing is evaluated in terms of the carbon dioxide emissions generated. Specifically, in this paper the modelling of the warehouse function is detailed. To test the effectiveness of the model a case study is carried out on company based in in the North NorthToof oftest Italy; the key results resultsofare are reported in thestudy manuscript, showing of the warehouse function is detailed. the the effectiveness thereported model a in case is carried out on aa fashion company based the Italy; key the manuscript, showing fashion based the North Italy; the key results the manuscript, where the company majorityfunction of costsin and emissions are generated. Information obtained from this is tool canshowing support of the warehouse isand detailed. Toof test the effectiveness ofare thereported model a in case study carried out on aawhere fashion company based in the North of Italy; the key results are reported in the manuscript, showing where the majority of costs emissions are generated. Information obtained from this tool can support fashion company based in the North of Italy; the key results are reported in the manuscript, showing the majority of costs and emissions are generated. Information obtained from this tool can support where the majority of costs and emissions are generated. Information obtained from this tool can support thefashion company’s management in their operational decisions and show where to focus their attention to athe company based in the North of Italy; the key results are reported in the manuscript, showing where the majority of costs and emissions are generated. Information obtained from this tool can support company’s management in emissions their operational operational decisions and show showobtained where to to focus their attention to where the majority of costs and are generated. Information from thistheir tool can support the company’s management in their decisions and where focus attention to the company’s management in their operational decisions and show where to focus their attention to enhance the economic and environmental sustainability. Copyright © 2019 IFAC where the majority of costs and emissions are generated. Information obtained from this tool can support the company’s management in their operational decisions and show where to focus their attention to enhance the economic economic and environmental environmental sustainability. Copyright © 2019 2019 IFAC the company’s management in their operational decisions and show where to focus their attention to enhance the and sustainability. Copyright © IFAC enhance the economic and environmental sustainability. Copyright © 2019 IFAC Keywords: fashion supply chain; sustainability; case study; economic and environmental the company’s management in their operational decisions and show where to focus their assessment; attention to enhance the economic and sustainability. Copyright © IFAC Keywords: supply chain; sustainability; case study; economic and environmental enhance thefashion economic and environmental environmental sustainability. Copyright ©by2019 2019 IFAC Keywords: fashion supply chain; sustainability; case study; economic and environmental assessment; © 2019, IFAC (International Federation of Automatic Control) Hosting Elsevier Ltd. All rights assessment; reserved. Keywords: fashion supply chain; sustainability; case study; economic and environmental assessment; modeling. enhance thefashion economic and environmental sustainability. Copyright © 2019and IFAC Keywords: supply chain; sustainability; case study; economic environmental assessment; modeling. Keywords: fashion supply chain; sustainability; case study; economic and environmental assessment; modeling. modeling. Keywords: fashion supply chain; sustainability; case study; economic and environmental assessment; modeling. modeling.   modeling.  1. INTRODUCTION ecosystem 1. INTRODUCTION INTRODUCTION ecosystem by by reducing reducing polluting polluting emissions emissions and and waste waste 1. ecosystem by reducing polluting emissions and waste  1. INTRODUCTION ecosystem by reducing polluting emissions and waste production, and the social sustainability is defined as the  Sustainability has nowadays become a fundamental issue as 1. INTRODUCTION ecosystem by reducing polluting emissions and waste production, and the social sustainability is defined as the Sustainability has nowadays become a fundamental issue as 1. INTRODUCTION ecosystem by reducing polluting emissions and waste production, and the social sustainability is defined as the Sustainability has nowadays become a fundamental issue as production, and the social sustainability is defined as the ability to ensure equity in quality of life and human well-being 1.as INTRODUCTION ecosystem by reducing polluting emissions and waste Sustainability has nowadays become a fundamental issue as production, and the social sustainability is defined as the important for society it is for the business context and for Sustainability has nowadays become a fundamental issue as ability to ensure equity in quality of life and human well-being production, and the social sustainability is defined as the important for society as it is for the business context and for ability to ensure equity in quality of life and human well-being Sustainability has nowadays become a fundamental issue as ability important for society as it is for the business context and for to ensure equity in quality of life and human well-being conditions, regardless of class and gender (Capone et al., important for society as it is for the business context and for production, and equity the social sustainability is (Capone defined as the to quality of and well-being the itself. The realities of change, Sustainability has nowadays become a fundamental issue as ability important for society as it is for the business context and for conditions, regardless of class and et al., ability to ensure ensure equity in in quality of life lifegender and human human well-being the environment environment itself. The realities of climate climate change, conditions, regardless of class and gender (Capone et al., important for society as it is for the business context and for the environment itself. The realities of climate change, conditions, regardless of class and gender (Capone et al., 2016). The challenge is to achieve a balance between these the environment itself. The realities of climate change, ability to ensure equity in quality of life and human well-being conditions, regardless of class and gender (Capone et al., depletion of resources, increasing in pollution and the various important for society as it is for the business context and for the environment itself. The realities of climate change, 2016). The challenge is to achieve a balance between these conditions, regardless oftoclass and agender (Capone etthese al., depletion of resources, resources, increasing in pollution pollution and the the change, various 2016). The challenge is achieve balance between the environment itself. The realities of climate depletion of increasing in and various 2016). The challenge is to achieve a balance between these dimensions. depletion of resources, increasing in pollution and the various conditions, regardless of class and gender (Capone et al., accidents occurred in past it necessary for companies 2016). the environment itself. Themake realities of climate change, depletion of in and various accidents occurred in the theincreasing past make itpollution necessary for the companies 2016). The The challenge challenge is is to to achieve achieve aa balance balance between between these these dimensions. depletion of resources, resources, increasing init pollution and the various dimensions. accidents occurred in the past make necessary for companies dimensions. 2016). The challenge is to achieve a balance between these accidents occurred in the past make it necessary for companies to adopt major innovations so that they can operate in a dimensions. depletion of resources, increasing initpollution the various accidents in for companies has recently gained to adopt adopt occurred major innovations so that that they can canand operate in aa Sustainability dimensions. accidents occurred in the the past past make make it necessary necessary for companies to major innovations so they operate in Sustainability in in the the fashion fashion industry industry has has recently recently gained gained in the fashion industry dimensions. to adopt major innovations so that they can operate in aa Sustainability responsible way, satisfy demand for ecoaccidents occurred in the consumers' past make itgrowing necessary for companies to adopt major innovations so that they can operate in Sustainability in the fashion industry has recently attention but, even so, has not yet been properly deepen (Yang responsible way, satisfy consumers' growing demand for ecoin the fashion industry has recently gained to adopt major innovations so thatgrowing they can operate responsible way, satisfy consumers' consumers' growing demand for in eco-a Sustainability attention but, even even so, has has not yet yet been properly properly deepen gained (Yang satisfy demand for ecoSustainability in the fashion industry has recently gained (Yang responsible way, friendly products and services and comply with regulations attention but, so, not been deepen satisfy consumers' growing demand for ecoto adopt major innovations so that they can operate in a responsible way, attention but, even so, has not yet been properly deepen (Yang et al., 2017). Achieving sustainable practices in the fashion and friendly products and services and comply with regulations Sustainability in the fashion industry has recently gained attention but, even so, has not yet been properly deepen (Yang responsible way, satisfy consumers' growing demand for ecofriendly products and services and comply with regulations et al., 2017). Achieving sustainable practices in the fashion and friendly products and services and comply with regulations attention but,Achieving even so, has not yet been properly deepen (Yang sustainable practices in the fashion and (Hojnik et al., 2018). et al., 2017). friendly products and services and comply with regulations responsible way, satisfy consumers' growing demand for ecoet al., 2017). Achieving sustainable practices in the fashion and textile industries is difficult since they are made up of long (Hojnik et al., 2018). attention but, even so, has not yet been properly deepen (Yang al., 2017). Achieving sustainable practices in the fashion and friendly products and services and comply with regulations et (Hojnik et al., 2018). textile industries is difficult since they are made up of long et al., 2017). Achieving sustainable practices in the fashion and (Hojnik et al., 2018). textile industries is difficult since they are made up of long friendly products and services and comply with regulations (Hojnik et al., 2018). textile industries is difficult since they are made up of long supply chains (Shim et al., 2018), but at the same time it is et al., 2017). Achieving sustainable practices in the fashion and textile industries is difficult since they are made up of long Supply chain models were traditionally designed in order to (Hojnik et al., 2018). supply chains (Shim et al., 2018), but at the same time it is textile industries is difficult since they arethe made uptime of long Supply chain chain models were traditionally traditionally designed designed in in order order to to supply chains (Shim et al., 2018), but at same it is (Hojnik et al., 2018). Supply models were supply chains (Shim et al., 2018), but at the same time it is essential, being considered among the world’s most polluting textile industries is difficult since they are made up of long Supply chain models were traditionally designed in order to minimize total costs without taking into account their harmful supply chains (Shim et al., 2018), but at the same time it is Supply chain models were traditionally designed in order to essential, being considered among the world’s most polluting minimize total costs without taking into account their harmful supply chains (Shim et al., 2018), but at the same time it is essential, being considered among the world’s most polluting Supply chain models were traditionally designed in order to essential, minimize total costs without taking into account their harmful being considered among the world’s most polluting industries (Boström & Micheletti, 2016). There is little doubt supply chains (Shim et al., 2018), but at the same time it is minimize total costs without taking into account their harmful emissions; in recent studies this last issue has been included essential, being considered among the world’s most polluting Supply chain models were traditionally designed in included order to essential, minimize total costs without taking into account their harmful industries (Boström & Micheletti, 2016). There is little doubt emissions; in recent studies this last issue has been being considered among the world’s most polluting industries (Boström & Micheletti, 2016). There is little doubt minimize total costs without taking into account theirincluded harmful industries emissions; in recent studies this last issue has been (Boström & Micheletti, 2016). There is little doubt that considering the three aforementioned pillars of essential, being considered among the world’s most polluting emissions; in recent studies this last issue has been included industries (Boström & Micheletti, 2016). There is little doubt (Elhedhli & Merrik, 2012) due to the trend of the last years minimize total costs without taking into account their harmful emissions; in recent this last issue has been included that considering considering the three aforementioned aforementioned pillarsdoubt of industries (Boström the & Micheletti, 2016). There is little (Elhedhli & 2012) due the trend of the last years that three pillars of emissions; inMerrik, recent studies studies this to last issue has been included (Elhedhli & Merrik, 2012) due to the trend of the last years that considering the three aforementioned pillars of sustainability is critical to their success et little al., 2018). industries (Boström & Micheletti, 2016). (Choi There is doubt (Elhedhli & 2012) to the trend of the last years that considering the three aforementioned pillars of towards the study studies of thedue effects of supply chains on emissions; inMerrik, recent this last issue has been included (Elhedhli & Merrik, 2012) due to the trend of the last years is critical to their success sustainability (Choi et al., 2018). that considering the three aforementioned pillars of towards the effects of supply chains on is critical to their success study of the sustainability (Choi et al., 2018). (Elhedhli & Merrik, 2012) due to the of trend of thechains last years towards the effects supply on study of the sustainability is critical to their success (Choi et al., 2018). Interesting issues are given by Karaosman et al. (2016), who towards the study of the effects of supply chains on that considering thegiven three aforementioned pillars of sustainability is critical to their success (Choi et al., 2018). environmental questions (Von der Gracht & Darkow, 2016). (Elhedhli & Merrik, 2012) due to the trend of the last years towards the study of the effects of supply chains on Interesting issues are by Karaosman et al. (2016), who sustainability is critical to their success (Choi et al., 2018). environmental questions (Von der Gracht & Darkow, 2016). Interesting issues are given by Karaosman et al. (2016), who towards the study of the effects of supply chains on environmental questions (Von der Gracht & Darkow, 2016). Interesting issues are given by Karaosman et al. who reviewed the on the integration of environmental questions (Von der Gracht & Darkow, 2016). sustainability is existing critical toliterature their success (Choi et(2016), al., 2018). This also led to introduce the term sustainable supply chain Interesting issues are given by Karaosman et al. (2016), who towards the study of the effects of supply chains on environmental questions (Von der Gracht & Darkow, 2016). reviewed the existing literature on the integration of This also led to toquestions introduce(Von the term term sustainable supply2016). chain reviewed Interesting the issuesexisting are given by Karaosman et al. (2016), who literature on the integration of environmental der Gracht & Darkow, This led introduce the sustainable supply chain also reviewed the existing literature on the integration of sustainability in fashion operations including the supply chain This also led to introduce the term sustainable supply chain Interesting issues are given by Karaosman et al. (2016), who management (SSCM), i.e. the management of material, reviewed the existing literature on the integration of environmental questions (Von der Gracht & Darkow, 2016). This also led to introduce the term sustainable supply chain sustainability in fashion operations including the supply chain management (SSCM), i.e.thethe the management of material, material, reviewed thein existing literature including on the the integration of fashion operations supply chain This also led to introduce term sustainable supply chain sustainability management (SSCM), i.e. management of sustainability in fashion operations including the supply chain level confirming that the implementation of sustainability reviewed the existing literature on the integration of management (SSCM), i.e. the management of material, information and capital flows as well as cooperation among sustainability in fashion operations including the supply chain This also led to introduce the term sustainable supply chain management (SSCM), i.e. the management of material, level confirming that the implementation of sustainability information and and capital flows flows as well well as cooperation cooperation among level sustainability in fashion operations including of thesustainability supply chain confirming that the implementation management (SSCM), i.e. the management of material, information capital as as among level confirming that the implementation of sustainability positively influence supply chain itself and firms’ sustainability in fashion operations including the supply chain information and capital flows as well as cooperation among level confirming that the implementation of sustainability companies along the supply chain while taking goals from all management (SSCM), i.e. chain the management of material, information and flows as as cooperation among positively influence supply chain itself itself and firms’ firms’ level confirming that the implementation of sustainability companies the supply while goals from all positively influence supply chain and informationalong and capital capital flows as well well astaking cooperation among companies along the supply chain while goals from all positively influence supply chain itself and firms’ performance. Desore Narula (2018) also gave an overview level confirming that& the implementation of sustainability companies along the supply chain while taking goals from all positively influence supply chain itself and firms’ three dimensions of sustainable development into account information and capital flows as well astaking cooperation among companies along the supply chain while taking goals from all performance. Desore & Narula (2018) also gave an overview positively influence supply chain itself and firms’ three dimensions of sustainable development into account performance. Desore & Narula (2018) also gave an overview companies along the supply chain while taking goals from all performance. three dimensions of sustainable development into account Desore & Narula (2018) also gave an overview on corporate response towards sustainability issues in this positively influence supply chain itself and firms’ three dimensions of sustainable development into account performance. Desore & Narula (2018) also gave an overview which are derived from customer and stakeholder companies along the supply chain while taking goals from all three dimensions of sustainable development into account on corporate response towards sustainability issues in this performance. Desore & Narula (2018) also gave an overview which are derived from customer and stakeholder on corporate response towards sustainability issues in this three dimensions of sustainable development into account on which are derived from customer and stakeholder corporate response towards sustainability issues in this context, showing that&companies are also taking active steps to performance. Desore Narula (2018) gave an overview which are derived from customer and stakeholder requirements (Seuring & Müller, 2008). on corporate response towards sustainability issues in this three dimensions of sustainable development into account which are derived from customer and stakeholder context, showing that companies are taking active steps to requirements on corporate response towards sustainability issues in this (Seuring & Müller, 2008). context, showing that companies are taking active steps to which are (Seuring derived & from customer and stakeholder context, requirements Müller, 2008). showing that companies are taking active steps to improve their environmental performance, even if this mainly requirements (Seuring & Müller, 2008). on corporate response towards sustainability issues in this context, showing that are to which are solutions derivedcan from customer andintegrating stakeholder requirements (Seuring & Müller, 2008). improve their environmental performance, evenactive if this thissteps mainly context, their showing that companies companies are taking taking active steps to improve environmental performance, even if mainly Sustainable be achieved through the requirements (Seuring & Müller, 2008). improve their environmental performance, even if this mainly happens in developed countries. Sustainable solutions can be achieved through integrating the context, showing thatcountries. companies are taking active steps to improve their environmental performance, even if this mainly Sustainable solutions can be achieved through integrating the requirements (Seuring & Müller, 2008). happens in developed improve their environmental performance, even if this mainly Sustainable solutions can be achieved through integrating the happens in developed countries. economic, environmental and social dimensions, the so-called Sustainable solutions be through the in developed countries. economic, environmental social dimensions, the so-called improve their environmental performance, even if this mainly happens in developed countries. Sustainable solutions can can and be achieved achieved through integrating integrating the happens economic, environmental and social dimensions, the so-called In with the considerations considerations above, this this study study proposes proposes an happens in developed countries.above, economic, environmental social dimensions, the so-called triple bottom line (TBL) approach which has overcome Sustainable solutions can and be achieved through integrating the economic, environmental and social dimensions, the In line line with the an triple bottom line (TBL) approach has overcome the In line with the considerations above, this study proposes an happens in developed countries. economic, environmental and social which dimensions, the so-called so-called triple bottom line (TBL) approach which has overcome the In line with the considerations above, this study proposes an analytic model developed under Microsoft Excel™ for the triple bottom line (TBL) approach which has overcome the In line with the considerations above, this study proposes an previous single bottom line perspective that only focused on economic, environmental and social dimensions, the so-called triple bottom line (TBL) approach which has overcome the analytic model developed under Microsoft Excel™ for the In line with the considerations above, this study proposes an previous single bottom line perspective that only focused on analytic model developed under Microsoft Excel™ for the triple bottom line (TBL) approach which has overcome the previous single bottom line perspective that only focused on analytic model developed Microsoft Excel™ for the quantitative assessment of the economic environmental previous single bottom line perspective that only focused on In line with the considerations thisand study proposes an analytic model developed under Microsoft Excel™ for financial objectives (Oelze at 2018). The economic triple bottom line (TBL) approach has overcome the previous single bottom line that focused on quantitative assessment of under the above, economic and environmental model developed under Microsoft Excel™ for the the financial objectives (Oelze at al., al.,which 2018). The economic quantitative assessment of the economic and environmental previous single bottom(Oelze line perspective perspective that only only focused on analytic financial objectives at al., 2018). The economic quantitative assessment of the economic and environmental sustainability dimensions of a fashion supply chain. The main financial objectives (Oelze at al., 2018). The economic analytic model developed under Microsoft Excel™ formain the sustainability is defined as the ability to generate durable quantitative assessment of the economic and environmental previous single bottom line perspective that only focused on financial objectives (Oelze at al., 2018). The economic sustainability dimensions of a fashion supply chain. The sustainability is defined defined as the the ability to generate generate durable quantitative assessment ofofthe economic andchain. environmental sustainability dimensions aa fashion supply The main financial objectives (Oelze at ability al., 2018). The economic sustainability is as to durable sustainability dimensions of fashion supply The main processes identified included according to sector sustainability is defined as the ability to generate durable quantitative assessment the economic andchain. environmental growth economic indicators, the ability generate sustainability dimensions of fashion chain. The main financial (Oelze atnotably al., 2018). The to sustainability is as ability to generate durable processes were were identifiedofand and included according to the the sector growth of of objectives economic indicators, notably the ability toeconomic generate sustainability dimensions of aa included fashion supply supply chain. Thesector main were identified and according to the sustainability is defined defined as the thenotably abilitythe to ability generate durable processes growth of economic indicators, to generate processes were identified and included according to the sector in question, i.e. supply, warehousing, production, distribution sustainability dimensions of a fashion supply chain. The main growth of economic indicators, notably the ability to generate income and employment for the population livelihood; the processes were identified and included according to the sector sustainability is defined as the ability to generate durable growth of economic indicators, notably the ability to generate in question, i.e. supply, warehousing, production, distribution income of and employment for the the population livelihood; the in processes were identified and includedproduction, according to the sector in question, i.e. supply, warehousing, production, distribution growth economic indicators, notably the ability to generate income and employment for population livelihood; the question, i.e. supply, warehousing, distribution and reverse logistics. For the sake of brevity, only the model processes were identified and included according to the sector income and employment for the population livelihood; the in question, i.e. supply, warehousing, production, distribution environmental sustainability refers to preserving the natural growth of economic indicators, notably the ability to generate income for the livelihood; the andquestion, reverse logistics. logistics. For the sake sake of of brevity, brevity, onlydistribution the model model i.e. supply, warehousing, production, environmental sustainability to preserving the natural and reverse For the only the income and and employment employment forrefers the population population livelihood; the in environmental sustainability to preserving the natural reverse logistics. For the sake of brevity, only the model in question, i.e. supply, warehousing, production, distribution environmental sustainability refers to preserving the natural and reverse logistics. For the sake of brevity, only the model income and employment forrefers the population livelihood; the and environmental sustainability refers to preserving the natural and reverse logistics. For the sake of brevity, only the model environmental sustainability refersFederation to preserving the natural and reverse logistics. Forrights the sake of brevity, only the model 2405-8963 © 2019,sustainability IFAC (International of Automatic Control) Hosting by Elsevier Ltd. All reserved. environmental refers to preserving the natural

Copyright 2019 responsibility IFAC 366Control. Peer review© of International Federation of Automatic Copyright ©under 2019 IFAC IFAC 366 Copyright © 2019 366 Copyright © 366 10.1016/j.ifacol.2019.11.147 Copyright © 2019 2019 IFAC IFAC 366 Copyright © 2019 IFAC 366 Copyright © 2019 IFAC 366

2019 IFAC MIM 362 Berlin, Germany, August 28-30, 2019

Eleonora Bottani et al. / IFAC PapersOnLine 52-13 (2019) 361–366

for the automated warehouse is presented in detail in this paper. In order to test its effectiveness, the whole model is then applied to all the processes of a company based in the North of Italy, called Company A.

The Microsoft Excel™ spreadsheet can be thought as composed of three tables, each of which dedicated to the three abovementioned activities responsible for costs and emissions; the only exception is the storage of goods, which does not involve emissions and therefore is not taken into account in the relating computation. In the table dedicated to the storage of goods, costs can be divided depending on products’ location in the storage area. Table reporting results derived from facilities heating, cooling and lighting shows in detail data from the three elements. The third table, instead, includes the different types of equipment effectively used. A fourth, final table can be added in order to synthesize obtained values of economic and environmental results.

The remainder of the manuscript is as follows: in section 2 the methodology is described, while section 3 deals with the modelling for the assessment of the warehouse area. The case study results are reported in section 4, followed by discussion, conclusions and suggestions for future research directions (section 5). 2. METHODOLOGY This study deals with the development of a model for the quantitative assessment of the economic and environmental dimensions of a fashion supply chain. After having analysed the existing literature and the existing models for sustainability assessments, five key processes were identified for the supply chain in question, namely: (1) supply, (2) warehousing, (3) production, (4) distribution and (5) reverse logistics.

As far as the computational procedure to quantify costs and emissions is concerned, the notation used is shown in Table 1. Table 1 - Nomenclature for the economic and environmental modelling of the warehouse process. SYMBOL

The economic sustainability is evaluated in terms of the total costs incurred in each process expressed in thousands of euros yearly i.e. TEUR/year, while for the environmental perspective, tons of carbon dioxide (CO2) emitted were determined; appropriate conversion factors were used where different data (e.g. kWh) were available.

CSK csk A

The evaluation model was developed under Microsoft Excel™ and consists of six spreadsheets; each of them represents one of the five supply chain processes and evaluate both the economic and environmental aspects. A final spreadsheet shows the aggregated results.

as CH/C ce

To test its effectiveness, the model was applied to the case study of an Italian company producing medium-high level ladieswear. Data were collected through interviews with the management, and if not available were deduced from literature and previous studies. Specifically, since only the warehouse process has been detailed in the following, only input data dealing with it will be provided.

f h/c CL fl CMMHE

3. MODELLING FOR THE ECONOMIC AND ENVIRONMENTAL ASSESSMENT OF THE WAREHOUSE PROCESSES In this section the modelling for the assessment of the economic and environmental sustainability of the warehouse processes is presented. The model is designed for an automated warehouse (AS/RS); therefore, workers’ contribution is not considered.

me

cme hme CFMHE

Several activities are carried out in this process: receiving, storage, picking and finally organization for shipment.

fe

The two dimensions are evaluated on the basis of the total cost incurred and the carbon dioxide emissions generated from the following activities: -

Storage of goods; Facilities heating, cooling and lighting; Electricity consumption of material equipment.

cfe hfe

handling

CW EH/C

367

DESCRIPTION Storage of goods cost Storage of goods unitary cost Total warehouse area % of storage area in the warehouse Heating and cooling cost Electricity consumption unit cost Heating and cooling factor Lighting cost Lighting factor Mobile material handling equipment cost Mobile material handling equipment (1,..,ME) MMHE hourly cost MMHE operating hours Fixed material handling equipment cost Fixed material handling equipment (1,..,FE) FMHE hourly cost FMHE operating hours Total cost of the Warehouse area Heating and cooling emissions

UNIT OF MEASUREMENT TEUR/year €/m2/year m2 % TEUR/year €/kWh kWh/ m2/year TEUR/year kWh/ m2/year TEUR/year

-

€/h h/year TEUR/year

-

€/kWh h/year TEUR/year tCO2/year

2019 IFAC MIM Berlin, Germany, August 28-30, 2019

E EL EMMHE kme EFMHE kfe

EW

Eleonora Bottani et al. / IFAC PapersOnLine 52-13 (2019) 361–366

Conversion factor kWh  kgCO2 Lighting emissions MMHE emissions MMHE hourly energy consumption FMHE emissions FMHE hourly energy consumption

Total emissions of the warehouse area

363

3.2 Environmental model

tCO2/kWh

The environmental dimension, instead, is evaluated through the tons of carbon dioxide generated by the three elements mentioned in the economic analysis; the only exception is the activity of good storage, which is not considered in the computation. Emissions from heating and cooling as well as those resulting from lighting are computed based on a factor considering consumptions per unit area, while for the material handling equipment, the operating hours and unitary energy consumption are considered. Relating formulae are listed in the following:

tCO2/year tCO2/year kWh/h tCO2/year kWh/h

tCO2/year



emissions from heating/cooling

𝐸𝐸𝐻𝐻/𝐶𝐶 = 𝐸𝐸 ∙ 𝑓𝑓ℎ/𝑐𝑐 ∙ 𝐴𝐴 [tCO2/year]

(7)

3.1 Economic model 

The economic dimension is evaluated in terms of the total costs incurred for the three abovementioned components.

𝐸𝐸𝐿𝐿 = 𝐸𝐸 ∙ 𝑓𝑓𝑙𝑙 ∙ 𝐴𝐴 [tCO2/year]

The first cost item i.e. the storage of goods, is computed using a coefficient that takes into account the area/volume dedicated to the storage. Heating, cooling and lighting costs can be calculated as well through a coefficient expressing the electricity consumption per unit of warehouse area; usually heating and cooling are evaluated together. Regarding the cost for the material handling equipment, it is firstly necessary to distinguish between Mobile Material Handling Equipment (MMHE), e.g. forklift trucks or AGVs, and Fixed Material Handling Equipment (FMHE), e.g. sorters or conveyor belts (Tompkins, et al., 2010). In both cases, one may think to a cost coefficient taking into account the energy consumption and maintenance, if any.









𝐸𝐸𝑊𝑊 = 𝐸𝐸𝐻𝐻/𝐶𝐶 + 𝐸𝐸𝐿𝐿 + 𝐸𝐸𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀 + 𝐸𝐸𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹 [tCO2/year]





(1)

4. CASE STUDY This section presents the results of the application of the whole model to a case study company, called Company A. This company is located in northern Italy and acts as the focal company of its supply chain; it is set within the context of medium-high level ladieswear and production is planned based on orders received from the various point of sales, after they have sight of the new seasonal collection i.e. it is a demand driven supply chain (Iannone et al., 2015). There are two main types of finished products i.e. knitting and jersey, for which different chains are involved due to the substantial difference of raw materials and processes between the two. Only in the distribution phase this difference disappears since all products are shipped together. Around 2,000,000 items per category are produced in one year.

(2)

(3)

cost for MMHE

𝐶𝐶𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀 = ∑𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀 𝑚𝑚𝑚𝑚=1 𝑐𝑐𝑚𝑚𝑚𝑚 ∙ ℎ𝑚𝑚𝑚𝑚 [TEUR/year]

(4)

cost for FMHE

𝐶𝐶𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹 = ∑𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹 𝑓𝑓𝑓𝑓=1 𝑐𝑐𝑓𝑓𝑓𝑓 ∙ ℎ𝑓𝑓𝑓𝑓 [TEUR/year]

(5)

The total cost of the warehouse area consists in the sum of the single contributions of cost items listed above: 𝐶𝐶𝑊𝑊 = 𝐶𝐶𝑆𝑆𝑆𝑆 + 𝐶𝐶𝐻𝐻/𝐶𝐶 + 𝐶𝐶𝐿𝐿 + 𝐶𝐶𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀 + 𝐶𝐶𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹 [TEUR/year]

(11)

The same procedure described for the warehousing activities has been followed for the remaining processes of the fashion supply chain, taking into account their specific features. The different activities and cost/emission components were firstly identified for each activity; then, formulae were determined in order to obtain the two final outcomes investigated.

cost for lighting

𝐶𝐶𝐿𝐿 = 𝑐𝑐𝑒𝑒 ∙ 𝑓𝑓𝑙𝑙 ∙ A [TEUR/year]

(10)

The total emissions are obtained as the sum of the single contributions, i.e.:

cost for heating/cooling

𝐶𝐶𝐻𝐻/𝐶𝐶 = 𝑐𝑐𝑒𝑒 ∙ 𝑓𝑓ℎ/𝑐𝑐 ∙ 𝐴𝐴 [TEUR/year]

(9)

emissions from FMHE

𝐸𝐸𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹 = ∑𝐹𝐹𝐹𝐹 𝑓𝑓𝑓𝑓=1 𝑘𝑘𝑓𝑓𝑓𝑓 ∙ ℎ𝑓𝑓𝑓𝑓 ∙ 𝐸𝐸 [tCO2/year]

cost for the storage of goods

𝐶𝐶𝑆𝑆𝑆𝑆 = 𝑐𝑐𝑠𝑠𝑠𝑠 ∙ A ∙ 𝑎𝑎𝑆𝑆 [TEUR/year]

(8)

emissions from MMHE

𝐸𝐸𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀 = ∑𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀 𝑚𝑚𝑚𝑚=1 𝑘𝑘𝑚𝑚𝑚𝑚 ∙ ℎ𝑚𝑚𝑚𝑚 ∙ 𝐸𝐸 [tCO2/year]

According to the considerations above, the following formulae are used in the computation: 

emissions from lighting

The product flow starts with the procurement of raw materials (supply); these latter can come from Turkey, India, Poland, Egypt and Italy. Once goods are received at the Italian warehouse, they are shipped to the production plants. A key

(6)

368

2019 IFAC MIM 364 Berlin, Germany, August 28-30, 2019

Eleonora Bottani et al. / IFAC PapersOnLine 52-13 (2019) 361–366

characteristic of Company A is that production is carried out by third parties situated abroad (typically in the Far East), in line with the common trend due to globalization of shifting production sites to emerging markets and developing countries (Warasthe & Brandenburg, 2018). Once the items have been manufactured, they are shipped back to the Italian warehouse, and finally they are delivered to the shippers’ logistic platforms; at this point the company’s control ends. This is the reason why no reverse logistics activities are managed by Company A: once finished products reach the different points of sales, these last are responsible for their sale or for managing return flows.

Table 3 - Input data for the storage of goods cost. Numerical Measurement unit Source value 2 csk 142 €/m /year Company A A 5,200.00 m2 Company A as 13 % Company A The storage of goods cost CSK is easy to calculate, and totals around 96 TEUR/year. Parameter

Furthermore, thanks to the detailed subdivision of the storage area between finished products/raw materials and knitting/jersey, it is also possible to determine exactly the costs related to each category using the same formula; detailed results are shown in Table 4. Note that costs are the same for the two categories since each of the two owns exactly 50% of the area dedicated to raw materials and of the one meant to finished product.

For the sake of consistency with the model developed, the analysis has been conducted on all the relevant supply chain processes, namely supply, warehouse, production and distribution; reverse logistics has been excluded from the evaluation as it is of marginal interest for Company A. Results from economic and environmental analysis are shown in the subsections below and, where possible, shared among the knitting and jersey product categories. Since in the previous section the modelling for the assessment of the warehouse area has been explained in detail, only this area will be detailed step by step and input data will be provided.

Table 4 - Storage of goods costs. Cost component Knitting Jersey Raw Material storage cost 16 16 [TEUR/year] Finished Product storage cost 32 32 [TEUR/year] Total cost per product category 48 48 [TEUR/year] Total cost [TEUR/year] 96 The second element generating both costs and emissions is the energy consumption for facilities heating/cooling and lighting, which depends on the warehouse total area. Input data and the relating sources are given in Table 5.

4.1 Supply Once suppliers were identified as well as their geographical location, means of transport used namely road or ship, quantities ordered and purchase costs for each raw material, the results in Table 2 were obtained: Table 2 - Results from supply function. Product type

Knitting Jersey Total

Cost [TEUR/year]

Emissions [tCO2/year]

Raw Transport materials 1,677.16 20.17 1,049.3 16.7 2,763.32

Raw Transport materials 17.12 13.61 30.73

Table 5 - Input data for heating, cooling and lighting costs and emissions. Measurement Source unit ce €/kWh Ricciardi (2015) fh/c kWh/ m2/year Fichtinger et al. (2015) fl kWh/ m2/year Fichtinger et al. (2015) A m2 Company A Emilia-Romagna E 4.332·10-4 tCO2/kWh (2015) In view of the abovementioned values, results are immediate: costs incurred for heating/cooling and lighting of facilities account, respectively, for 180.96 TEUR/year and 32.57 TEUR/year, and total 213.53 TEUR/year. Emissions, instead, amount to 531.62 tCO2/year (450.53 from heating/cooling and 81.09 from lighting). It is clear that most of the expenses and emissions are held for heating and cooling the facilities. Numerical value 0.174 200 36 5,200.00

Costs for the supply are mostly due to the knitting product category. The reason is the very high unitary cost of the yarn used for these items, which is imported from India and shipped by sea. Emissions as well are mainly generated by the knitting product category, since its raw materials have a greater number of deliveries. 4.2 Warehousing Taking as starting point the model described in section 3 for the assessment of the economic and environmental sustainability of the warehouse, results are provided below, step by step. The first activity generating cost is the storage of goods. Input data for its calculation are listed in Table 3.

Finally, costs and emissions related to the material handling equipment need to be determined. The warehouse activities require 5 stacker cranes and 4 fork trucks (MMHE), plus a sorter and a roller conveyor (FMHE). Data for the mobile equipment refers separately to stacker cranes and fork lift trucks; accordingly, we have two components called MMHE1 and MMHE2 respectively. For the fixed equipment, values refer to both elements. The required data are listed in Table 6. 369

2019 IFAC MIM Berlin, Germany, August 28-30, 2019

Eleonora Bottani et al. / IFAC PapersOnLine 52-13 (2019) 361–366

4.4 Distribution

Table 6 - Input data for material handling equipment costs and emissions. Parameter cme MMHE1 cme MMHE2 cfe hme MMHE1 hme MMHE2 hfe kme MMHE1 kme MMHE2

Numerical value

Measurement unit

Source

3.30

€/h

Company A

1.40

€/h

Company A

5.57

€/h

Company A

1,399.50

h/year

Company A

1,866.00

h/year

Company A

2,332.50

h/year

Company A

20.00

kWh/h

Company A

6.39

kWh/h

Company A

The last process analysed is the distribution, which, for the case under examination, is the shipment of the finished items to the transporters, which will then serve the point of sales. Shipment is carried out only by road, and logistic platforms are all located in northern Italy not far from the main warehouse of Company A. The results obtained are shown in Table 8. Note that the distinction between knitwear and jersey disappears at this stage as well, since both product categories are distributed jointly. Table 8 - Results from distribution process. Cost [TEUR/year] 34.8

27.87

kWh/h

The model, developed under Microsoft ExcelTM, takes into account all the typical processes of a fashion supply chain, from raw material procurement up to the shipment of the finished product to the stores. For the sake of brevity, the paper has detailed the warehouse process only, to provide the reader with an idea of the computational procedure followed for the evaluation of the economic and environmental sustainability.

More generally, the costs observed in the warehouse amount to 329.74 TEUR/year and the emissions to 577.07 tCO2 each year. The worthiest component for both economic and environmental analysis is the maintenance of facilities, specifically for heating and cooling.

The whole model has subsequently been applied to an Italian company operating in the fashion industry, for the evaluation of four supply chain processes. The aggregated results of the economic and environmental evaluation are presented in Table 9, including the percentage share of costs and emissions among the different supply chain processes.

4.3 Production Since Company A outsources production, the evaluation is not based on the manufacturing processes themselves, but rather on forward flows (FF), i.e. the shipment of raw materials from the Italian warehouse to the production plants abroad, and backward flows (BF), i.e. the product flow from the production plant abroad to the Italian warehouse. Volumes in the backward flow phase are, of course, higher. Results are depicted in Table 7.

Table 9 - Aggregated results from the economic and environmental analysis of the case study. Emissions Cost % % [TEUR/year] [tCO2/year] Supply 2,763.32 59.1 30.73 1.6 Warehouse 329.74 7.1 577.07 29.7 Production 1,547.75 33.1 1,309.84 67.3 Distribution 34.8 0.7 25.94 1.4 TOTAL 4,675,607.19 100 1,943.6 100 For the tested supply chain, most of the economic impact is generated at the supply stage; the second cost item impacting the total cost to the greatest extent is the production process. Process

Table 7 - Results from production function. Type of product

Cost [TEUR/year]

Emissions [tCO2/year]

Knitting

FF 28.97

BF 758.14

FF 16.50

BF 661.07

Jersey

11.29

749.34

8.42

623.84

Total

1,547.75

Emissions [tCO2/year] 25.94

5. DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSIONS This paper aimed at presenting the economic and environmental sustainability modelling of a fashion supply chain. Total costs were considered as the key performance indicator for evaluating the economic aspect, while carbon dioxide emissions was used to evaluate the environmental dimension.

Fichtinger, et al., 2015 Emilia-4 E 4.332·10 tCO2/kWh Romagna, 2015 The final results show that the total cost for the MMHE corresponds to 7.23 TEUR/year each year, while the cost for FMHE is 12.99 TEUR/year. Emissions, instead, amount to 17.3 tCO2 for the mobile equipment each year, and 28.16 tCO2 for the fixed equipment. kfe

365

The production process turns out to be responsible for most of the emissions despite the fact that the relating evaluation only took into account the logistics processes (i.e. the flows from the main Italian warehouse to the production plant and vice versa), as Company A outsources the true production activity. This result was somehow unexpected, since the emissions of this process are more than forty times higher than those related to the supply, despite the logistics aspect (i.e. transport) only

1,309.84

The cost for the forward flow is definitely lower than the backward flow, since finished products are more numerous. Foreign countries involved are China, Romania, Tunisia, Morocco, Portugal, Turkey and Croatia. Despite the air transport is involved only with China, this is the highest cost and emissions component. 370

2019 IFAC MIM 366 Berlin, Germany, August 28-30, 2019

Eleonora Bottani et al. / IFAC PapersOnLine 52-13 (2019) 361–366

was taken into account for the environmental evaluation of both processes. Of course, it should be mentioned that supply considers only one-way transports (i.e. from the supplier to the company’s warehouse), while for production round trips are involved (i.e. from/to the warehouse to/from the production plants); result is anyway noteworthy. Emissions due to the supply process are as well significantly lower than those due to the warehouse, which are especially generated from the heating and cooling systems. To be more precise, it emerges that air transport, used to cover great distances (i.e. for the relationship with China), has a major impact on both costs and emissions.

Hojnik, J., Ruzzier, M. & Manolova, T., 2018. Internationalization and economic performance: The mediating role of eco-innovation. Journal of Cleaner Production, 171, 1312-1323. Iannone, R., Martino, G., Miranda, S. & Riemma, S., 2015. Modeling Fashion Retail Supply Chain through Causal Loop Diagram. IFAC-PapersOnLine, 48-3, pp. 12901295. Karaosman, H., Morales-Alonso G. & Brun, A. 2016. From a Systematic Literature Review to a Classification Framework: Sustainability Integration in Fashion Operations. Sustainability, 9(30). DOI: 10.3390/su9010030. Oelze, N., Brandenburg, M., Jansen, C. & Warasthe, R., 2018. Applying Sustainable Supply Chain Management Frameworks to Two German Case Studies. IFACPapersOnLine, 51-30, pp. 293-296. Regione Emilia-Romagna, 2015. Indicazioni metodologiche per l’applicazione dei fattori di conversione al metodo di calcolo di cui alla DGR 967/2015 e alla DGR 1275/2015. Ricciardi, R., 2015. Repubblica.it. [Online] Available at: https://www.repubblica.it/economia/2015/05/27/news/ga s_luce_bollette_eurostat-115374108/ [Consulted on 13 December 2018]. Seuring, S. & Müller, M., 2008. From a literature review to a conceptual framework for sustainable supply chain management. Journal of Cleaner Production, 16, 16991710. Shim, S.; Kim, J.; Na, Y., 2018. An exploratory study on upcycling as the sustainable clothing life at home. Fashion and Textiles, 5, article n.14. Tompkins, J.A., White, J.A., Bozer, Y.A., & Tanchoco, J.M.A., 2010. Facilities planning. John Wiley & Sons. Von der Gracht, H.A. & Darkow, I.-L., 2017. Energyconstrained and the low-carbon scenarios for the transportation and logistic industry. International Journal of Logistics Management, 27, 142–166. Warasthe, R. & Brandenburg, M., 2018. Sourcing Organic Cotton from African Countries Potentials and Risks for the Apparel Industry Supply Chain. IFAC-PapersOnLine, 51-30, pp. 297-301. Yang, S., Song, Y., Tong, S. & Xiong, G., 2017. Sustainable Retailing in the Fashion Industry: A Systematic Literature Review. Sustainability, 9(7), (7), 1266. DOI: 10.3390/su9071266.

This set of information may be useful to the management by highlighting those processes where the attention should be addressed and can support operational decisions aimed at decreasing the environmental impact of the company. For instance, in our case study, managers might consider other suppliers or other raw materials, since the majority of costs occurs for their purchase. Similarly, to reduce the emissions, they could reconsider transport to/from production plants or evaluate renewable energy sources to be used in the warehouse. More in general, the model developed in this paper can be taken as a starting point for similar evaluations in other supply chains and can be adapted to scenarios different from the fashion industry, e.g. by changing processes or including other activities, depending on the particular context. Moreover, it can be implemented in companies of different size in order to identify any contingency factors. Among the limitations of this paper, we have to mention that the specific case study could be more thorough if data about the true production process were available and included in the analysis. Moreover, the social dimension of sustainability has been neglected in this study due to the difficulties in its quantitative assessment; nonetheless, its evaluation could be deepened. These aspects form interesting issues for future research activities. REFERENCES Boström, M. & Micheletti, M., 2016. Introducing the Sustainability Challenge of Textiles and Clothing. Journal of Consumer Policy, 39(4), pp. 367-375. Capone, R., El Bilali, H. & Bottalico, F., 2016. Assessing the Sustainability of Typical Agro-Food Products: Insights from Apulia Region, Italy. New Medit, Volume 1, pp. 2835. Choi, T.-M., Cai, Y.-J. & Shen, B., 2018. Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain Management: A System of Systems Analysis. IEEE Transactions on Engineering Management. Desore, A. & Narula, S. A. 2018. An overview on corporate response towards sustainability issues in textile industry. Environ. Dev. Sustain., 20, pp. 1439-1459. Elhedhli, S. & Merrik, R., 2012. Green supply chain network design to reduce carbon emissions. Transportation Research Part D, 17, 370-379. Fichtinger, J., Ries, J., Grosse, E. & Baker, P., 2015. Assessing the environmental impact of integrated inventory and warehouse management. International Journal of Production Economics, 170, 717-729.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS This research was supported by the research Grant No. D92I15000210008 (project code RBSI14L97M), called “ESCALATE—Economic and Environmental Sustainability of Supply Chain and Logistics with Advanced Technologies”, funded by the Italian Ministry of University and Research under the SIR (Scientific Independence of young Researchers) 2014 program (decree of 23 January 2014, No. 197) and awarded to the first author (E. Bottani).

371