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A one-dimensional gravity wave spectrum
Oceanographic Abstracts
31
BHATTACHARYA,R. N., 1962. Shallow water effect on wave resistance of a ship moving in a circular path. Proc. Nat. Inst. Sci. Ind., (A, Physical Science) 28 (5): 820-833. The problem of wave resistance of a symmetrical thin ship moving in a circular path in deep water was discussed in two previous papers (Bhattacharya 1958 and 1961). In this paper the corresponding problem in shallow water has been solved and a resistance formula obtained containing three multiple integrals---fourfold, fivefold and sixfold respectively. A suitable ship model (the same as in the earlier papers) has been taken for which the first two multiple integrals vanish and the third can be completely evaluated. An examination of the resistance for ascertaining shallow water effect has led to the theoretical discovery of a critical angular velocity Qo, analogous to Havelock's (1922) critical linear velocity, such that the shallow water resistance exceeds or falls short of the corresponding deep water resistance according as the angular velocity of the ship is less or greater than ~0. This result calls for experimental verification. BOCQUET-VI~DmNE,J., 1963. Structure du test calcaire chez Chthamalus stellatus (Pol.). C . R . , Acad. Sci., Paris, 257 (6): 1350-1352. L'6tude du test calcaire de Chthamalus stellatus (Poli) montre que la croissance de ce Cirripb,xte Opercul~ ob~it ~t un d~terminisme cyclique tr~s comparable/t celui des autres Crustac~s. BODEN, B. P., 1961. Euphausiacea (Crustacea) from Tropical West Africa. Atlantide Rep. 6: 251-262. The paper deals with twenty-four species many of which are recorded for the first time from West African waters,
BOLTOVSKOY,E., 1961. Foraminiferos de la plataforma continental entre el Cabo Santo Tome y la desembocadura del Rio de la Plata. Revist., Mus. Argent. Cleric. Nat. ' Bernardino Rivadavia,' Cienc. ZooL, 6 (6): 249-346. The foraminiferal fauna from bottom samples collected on the shelf between 21.5°S and 36°S were studied. The total number of species found was 346 (326 benthonic and 20 planktonic). The following species are predominant : Bulimina marginata, Uvigerinaperegrina ( f parvula), Cibicides bertheloti ( f boueana) and Cassidulina eurvata. The following species showed also a rather wide distribution, but not such as the ones given above : Cibicides pseudoungerianus, Nonion affine, Planulina foveolata, Siphonina reticulata, Cassidulina subglobosa, C. crassa ( f media). T h e ' Species number' is an average of forty with a maximum of about ninety. T h e ' Foraminiferal number' is 316 (225 benthonic and 91 planktonic). The analysis of the benthonic, foraminiferal populations leads to the conclusion that the zoogeographical province that could be called subtropical occurs in the region studied from its southern limit to latitude 23°S. The tropical zoogeographical province begins ca. from latitude 23°S. The author reaches several taxonomical conclusions and describes a new subspecies. Bouois, P., 1962. Le cuivre en ~cologie marine. Problemi ecologici delle zone litorali del Mediterraneo 17-23 lugiio 1961. Pubbl. Staz. Zool. Napoli, Vol. 32 Suppl.: 497-514. From published analyses the distribution of copper in the oceans is given. Taking into account percentages of this metal in marine organisms the problem of a deficiency is questioned. Experiments on the toxicity of copper are reviewed. Its effect as an accelerator of larval metamorphosis is studied. BP.~TSCHNEIDER, C. L., 1963. A one-dimensional gravity wave spectrum. In: Ocean Wave Spectra, Proc. Conf., Easton, Md., May 1-4, 1961 Prentice-I/all, N.J., 41-56. A one-dimensional gravity wave spectrum might be interpreted as a frequency analysis of a continuous recording of the sea-surface elevations at a particular point, where the recording mechanism is a blind staff, itself not knowing from which direction or directions the undulations approach. This is of no concern to the recorder since the recorder cannot think for itself. The analysis and the interpretation of the data is the responsibility of the professional scientists. If the spectrum is to be nonlinear, then no higher harmonic components should be present. In nature it is a well-known fact that the sea surface undulations are quite irregular in direction of approach, in the peaks or the maximums, and in successions of zero elevations. There is much use in having a knowledge of the one-dimensional linear spectrum, both in practical engineering works and as a basis for studying actual deviations therefrom as might be required in other scientific problems. The present text is limited primarily to the non-linear, one-dimensional wave spectrum, although it is not always possible to disassociate the non-linear factors. It is not intended to make comparisons of the various proposed wave spectra, which is a separate task in itself. The development of the wave spectra given by Bretschneider (1959) is discussed, together with a brief summary of, and some additions to, the derivation. Although the spectrum of Neumann (1952) is mentioned for illustrative purposes, comparing some of the similarities and dissimilarities with the spectrum of Bretschneider (1959), it is not intended to impede the other proposed wave spectra found in the literature, i.e. Darbyshire (1952, 1955, 1959), Roll and Fisher (1956), among others. A number of seemingly justified assumptions are used to derive the theoretical wave spectrum. These assumptions arc discussed in detail, and a number of computed wave spectra are given to illustrate the principles used in this derivation. No attempt is made to compare the computed
32
Oceanographic Abstracts
wave spectra with a special form of the theoretical wave spectrum, which is also presented. This phase of the investigation is incomplete to date. Finally, it is quite important to understand that the problem of the linear wave spectrum is not yet solved, except perhaps as a weak first approximation. Certainly the nonlinear and directional wave spectrum is far more complicated and difficult to capture from both theoretical and practical points of view. A break-through in this aspect would certainly be of great value for understanding more fully the linear one-dimensional spectrum. For the above reasons it is believed that the present paper offers some encouragement that one should like to find in a progress report, BRlSOU, J., 1962. Survie des bact~ries pathog~nes dans les eaux douces et le milieu marin. Sere.
H6p. Paris, 38: 3913-3915. Ref. in: Bull. Inst. Pasteur, 1963, 61 (8): 2434-2435. Revue g~n~rale des processus d'auto-6puration des eaux douces et des eaux de mer. Ces processus sont, dans les deux cas, identiques; seul varie le r~sttltat final de s61ection. L'eau de mer s61ectionne des e s ~ c e s ou de simples vari~t~s halophiles. La disparition des bact6ries pathog~nes r~sulte de l'action conjugu6e de multiples facteurs notamment : la s6dimentation, l'adsorption des microbes sur des particules inertes ou vivantes qui migrent vers les fonds. La lumi~re agit par ses radiations ultra-violettes, mais cette action reste limit~e /t ta surface ou aux faibles profondeurs, la temp6rature joue un rSle limitant en ralentissant les processus biochimiques et la reproduction des germes hal~itu~s A vivre aux environs de 37°; les pressions ne sont nocives qu'/t des chiffres 61ev6s. Aux facteurs physiques s'ajouteraient des facteurs chimiques, du moins le pensait-on. Or l'exp~rimentation a montr6 que l'eau de mer ne contenait aucune substance nuisible /t la croissance des bact&ies pathog~nes. Toutes les bact~ries courantes de la m&licine humaine cultivent facilement dans les milieux nutritifs pr6par~s avec de l'eau de mer naturelle. Certaines e s ~ c e s comme les Klebsiella, les staphylocoques pathog~nes, les St./aecalis et bien d'autres, sont mSme activ6s par le milieu marin. B. souligne h ce sujet que le classique milieu de Chapman, propos6 pour l'isolement des staphylocoques, contient 7.5 p. 100 de CINa. La survie dans les eaux douces comme dans les eaux de mer est fonction des substrats presents. Pour un aliment ~nerg6tique donn6 la survie est mSme souvent plus longue dans l'eau de mer que dans l'eau douce. S'il existe, dans certaines eaux, des facteurs chimiques nuisibles aux bact6ries ils r6sultent des apports de l'industrie, ou des d6versements biologiques rnassifs. Les facteurs biologiques responsables de la disparition des esp~ces microbiennes pathog~nes sont repr~sent6es par les pr6dateurs tels que les coquillages, v6ritables ravisseurs de microbes (le 1/4 ou le 1/3 de microbes en mati~re s~he). Les 616merits du planeton jouent eux aussi un r61e qui est encore fi l'6tude. I1 se peut u air entre plancton et bact6ries des actions antagonistes qu'il reste /l pr~ciser. Les bact6riophages apportent enfin un concours qui est connu depuis longtemps, peut-~tre plus important qu'on ne le pensait. Enfin B. insiste sur le facteur " d i l u t i o n , " qui impose son action dans toutes les circonstances. La dilution porte ~t la fois sur l'aliment et sur la densit6 microbienne. C'est de toute 6vidence au niveau des mers, des grands lacs, des fleuves/t grand debit quelle atteint son maximum d'efficacit6. C'est en mer que le rapport diluant/dilu6 agit au maximum. BROECKER, W. S., 1963. A preliminary evaluation of uranium series inequilibriunl as a tool for absolute age measurement on marine carbonates. J. Geophys. Res., 68 (9) : 2817-2834. Experimentally determined ratios of ~26Ra to 2zsU for marine carbonates are compared with ratios predicted on the basis of the age of the sample as determined by radiocarbon. The following assumptions are made in computing these ratios : (1) the initial concentrations of 22aRa and Z3°Th are too small to make a significant contribution to the 226Ra currently in the sample, (2) the 2a4U concentration is initially 15 per cent in excess of its equilibrium value, and (3) the samples act as closed systems for U, Th, and Ra. Three major conclusions may be drawn : (a) fossil mollusks contain appreciably more uranium than their contemporary equivalents, (b) acid leach fractions have considerably higher ~6Ra/2asu ratios than the residual material and, (c) the 2~Ra/2asU ratios are either within experimental error of, or in excess of, the predicted ratios (hence ages computed from the 2~Ra/~asU ratio would b= equal to or greater than the corresponding 14C ages). Measurements of ZZ°Th, ~a2Th, aa4u, and ~alPa are necessary before any elaborate interpretation of the observed anomalies is attempted. BROUARDEL, J. and E. RxNcK, 1963. Mesure de la production organique en M6diterran~e, dans les parages de Monaco, h l'aide du 14°C. Ann. Inst. Ocdanogr., Monaco, N.S., 40 (2): 109-164. I1 r6sulte de cette 6rude que la mesure de la productivit6 par la m6thode du 14C est susceptible de donner d'int6ressants r6sultats, mais elle n'est pas d'un emploi aussi simple qu'on pourrait le croire. Elle exige d'Stre utilis~e avec toutes les precautions dont nous avons essays d'indiquer les plus importantes. De route facon l'interpretation des r6sultats reste delicate. Une standardisation des techniques employees serait hautement souhaitable en vue de permettre une comparaison valable des r6sultats obtenus par les diff6rents auteurs.
BROWN, R. S., 1963. Wave propagation through (8): 441--443. Expressions are derived for the mean squared value propagated through a turbulent wake. It is assumed the wake can be approximated as the product of a
a turbulent wake. J. Atmos. Terr. Phys., 25 of the phase fluctuations of a wave which has that the index of refraction fluctuations within r a n d o m function and a decaying exponential.
31
BHATTACHARYA,R. N., 1962. Shallow water effect on wave resistance of a ship moving in a circular path. Proc. Nat. Inst. Sci. Ind., (A, Physical Science) 28 (5): 820-833. The problem of wave resistance of a symmetrical thin ship moving in a circular path in deep water was discussed in two previous papers (Bhattacharya 1958 and 1961). In this paper the corresponding problem in shallow water has been solved and a resistance formula obtained containing three multiple integrals---fourfold, fivefold and sixfold respectively. A suitable ship model (the same as in the earlier papers) has been taken for which the first two multiple integrals vanish and the third can be completely evaluated. An examination of the resistance for ascertaining shallow water effect has led to the theoretical discovery of a critical angular velocity Qo, analogous to Havelock's (1922) critical linear velocity, such that the shallow water resistance exceeds or falls short of the corresponding deep water resistance according as the angular velocity of the ship is less or greater than ~0. This result calls for experimental verification. BOCQUET-VI~DmNE,J., 1963. Structure du test calcaire chez Chthamalus stellatus (Pol.). C . R . , Acad. Sci., Paris, 257 (6): 1350-1352. L'6tude du test calcaire de Chthamalus stellatus (Poli) montre que la croissance de ce Cirripb,xte Opercul~ ob~it ~t un d~terminisme cyclique tr~s comparable/t celui des autres Crustac~s. BODEN, B. P., 1961. Euphausiacea (Crustacea) from Tropical West Africa. Atlantide Rep. 6: 251-262. The paper deals with twenty-four species many of which are recorded for the first time from West African waters,
BOLTOVSKOY,E., 1961. Foraminiferos de la plataforma continental entre el Cabo Santo Tome y la desembocadura del Rio de la Plata. Revist., Mus. Argent. Cleric. Nat. ' Bernardino Rivadavia,' Cienc. ZooL, 6 (6): 249-346. The foraminiferal fauna from bottom samples collected on the shelf between 21.5°S and 36°S were studied. The total number of species found was 346 (326 benthonic and 20 planktonic). The following species are predominant : Bulimina marginata, Uvigerinaperegrina ( f parvula), Cibicides bertheloti ( f boueana) and Cassidulina eurvata. The following species showed also a rather wide distribution, but not such as the ones given above : Cibicides pseudoungerianus, Nonion affine, Planulina foveolata, Siphonina reticulata, Cassidulina subglobosa, C. crassa ( f media). T h e ' Species number' is an average of forty with a maximum of about ninety. T h e ' Foraminiferal number' is 316 (225 benthonic and 91 planktonic). The analysis of the benthonic, foraminiferal populations leads to the conclusion that the zoogeographical province that could be called subtropical occurs in the region studied from its southern limit to latitude 23°S. The tropical zoogeographical province begins ca. from latitude 23°S. The author reaches several taxonomical conclusions and describes a new subspecies. Bouois, P., 1962. Le cuivre en ~cologie marine. Problemi ecologici delle zone litorali del Mediterraneo 17-23 lugiio 1961. Pubbl. Staz. Zool. Napoli, Vol. 32 Suppl.: 497-514. From published analyses the distribution of copper in the oceans is given. Taking into account percentages of this metal in marine organisms the problem of a deficiency is questioned. Experiments on the toxicity of copper are reviewed. Its effect as an accelerator of larval metamorphosis is studied. BP.~TSCHNEIDER, C. L., 1963. A one-dimensional gravity wave spectrum. In: Ocean Wave Spectra, Proc. Conf., Easton, Md., May 1-4, 1961 Prentice-I/all, N.J., 41-56. A one-dimensional gravity wave spectrum might be interpreted as a frequency analysis of a continuous recording of the sea-surface elevations at a particular point, where the recording mechanism is a blind staff, itself not knowing from which direction or directions the undulations approach. This is of no concern to the recorder since the recorder cannot think for itself. The analysis and the interpretation of the data is the responsibility of the professional scientists. If the spectrum is to be nonlinear, then no higher harmonic components should be present. In nature it is a well-known fact that the sea surface undulations are quite irregular in direction of approach, in the peaks or the maximums, and in successions of zero elevations. There is much use in having a knowledge of the one-dimensional linear spectrum, both in practical engineering works and as a basis for studying actual deviations therefrom as might be required in other scientific problems. The present text is limited primarily to the non-linear, one-dimensional wave spectrum, although it is not always possible to disassociate the non-linear factors. It is not intended to make comparisons of the various proposed wave spectra, which is a separate task in itself. The development of the wave spectra given by Bretschneider (1959) is discussed, together with a brief summary of, and some additions to, the derivation. Although the spectrum of Neumann (1952) is mentioned for illustrative purposes, comparing some of the similarities and dissimilarities with the spectrum of Bretschneider (1959), it is not intended to impede the other proposed wave spectra found in the literature, i.e. Darbyshire (1952, 1955, 1959), Roll and Fisher (1956), among others. A number of seemingly justified assumptions are used to derive the theoretical wave spectrum. These assumptions arc discussed in detail, and a number of computed wave spectra are given to illustrate the principles used in this derivation. No attempt is made to compare the computed
32
Oceanographic Abstracts
wave spectra with a special form of the theoretical wave spectrum, which is also presented. This phase of the investigation is incomplete to date. Finally, it is quite important to understand that the problem of the linear wave spectrum is not yet solved, except perhaps as a weak first approximation. Certainly the nonlinear and directional wave spectrum is far more complicated and difficult to capture from both theoretical and practical points of view. A break-through in this aspect would certainly be of great value for understanding more fully the linear one-dimensional spectrum. For the above reasons it is believed that the present paper offers some encouragement that one should like to find in a progress report, BRlSOU, J., 1962. Survie des bact~ries pathog~nes dans les eaux douces et le milieu marin. Sere.
H6p. Paris, 38: 3913-3915. Ref. in: Bull. Inst. Pasteur, 1963, 61 (8): 2434-2435. Revue g~n~rale des processus d'auto-6puration des eaux douces et des eaux de mer. Ces processus sont, dans les deux cas, identiques; seul varie le r~sttltat final de s61ection. L'eau de mer s61ectionne des e s ~ c e s ou de simples vari~t~s halophiles. La disparition des bact6ries pathog~nes r~sulte de l'action conjugu6e de multiples facteurs notamment : la s6dimentation, l'adsorption des microbes sur des particules inertes ou vivantes qui migrent vers les fonds. La lumi~re agit par ses radiations ultra-violettes, mais cette action reste limit~e /t ta surface ou aux faibles profondeurs, la temp6rature joue un rSle limitant en ralentissant les processus biochimiques et la reproduction des germes hal~itu~s A vivre aux environs de 37°; les pressions ne sont nocives qu'/t des chiffres 61ev6s. Aux facteurs physiques s'ajouteraient des facteurs chimiques, du moins le pensait-on. Or l'exp~rimentation a montr6 que l'eau de mer ne contenait aucune substance nuisible /t la croissance des bact&ies pathog~nes. Toutes les bact~ries courantes de la m&licine humaine cultivent facilement dans les milieux nutritifs pr6par~s avec de l'eau de mer naturelle. Certaines e s ~ c e s comme les Klebsiella, les staphylocoques pathog~nes, les St./aecalis et bien d'autres, sont mSme activ6s par le milieu marin. B. souligne h ce sujet que le classique milieu de Chapman, propos6 pour l'isolement des staphylocoques, contient 7.5 p. 100 de CINa. La survie dans les eaux douces comme dans les eaux de mer est fonction des substrats presents. Pour un aliment ~nerg6tique donn6 la survie est mSme souvent plus longue dans l'eau de mer que dans l'eau douce. S'il existe, dans certaines eaux, des facteurs chimiques nuisibles aux bact6ries ils r6sultent des apports de l'industrie, ou des d6versements biologiques rnassifs. Les facteurs biologiques responsables de la disparition des esp~ces microbiennes pathog~nes sont repr~sent6es par les pr6dateurs tels que les coquillages, v6ritables ravisseurs de microbes (le 1/4 ou le 1/3 de microbes en mati~re s~he). Les 616merits du planeton jouent eux aussi un r61e qui est encore fi l'6tude. I1 se peut u air entre plancton et bact6ries des actions antagonistes qu'il reste /l pr~ciser. Les bact6riophages apportent enfin un concours qui est connu depuis longtemps, peut-~tre plus important qu'on ne le pensait. Enfin B. insiste sur le facteur " d i l u t i o n , " qui impose son action dans toutes les circonstances. La dilution porte ~t la fois sur l'aliment et sur la densit6 microbienne. C'est de toute 6vidence au niveau des mers, des grands lacs, des fleuves/t grand debit quelle atteint son maximum d'efficacit6. C'est en mer que le rapport diluant/dilu6 agit au maximum. BROECKER, W. S., 1963. A preliminary evaluation of uranium series inequilibriunl as a tool for absolute age measurement on marine carbonates. J. Geophys. Res., 68 (9) : 2817-2834. Experimentally determined ratios of ~26Ra to 2zsU for marine carbonates are compared with ratios predicted on the basis of the age of the sample as determined by radiocarbon. The following assumptions are made in computing these ratios : (1) the initial concentrations of 22aRa and Z3°Th are too small to make a significant contribution to the 226Ra currently in the sample, (2) the 2a4U concentration is initially 15 per cent in excess of its equilibrium value, and (3) the samples act as closed systems for U, Th, and Ra. Three major conclusions may be drawn : (a) fossil mollusks contain appreciably more uranium than their contemporary equivalents, (b) acid leach fractions have considerably higher ~6Ra/2asu ratios than the residual material and, (c) the 2~Ra/2asU ratios are either within experimental error of, or in excess of, the predicted ratios (hence ages computed from the 2~Ra/~asU ratio would b= equal to or greater than the corresponding 14C ages). Measurements of ZZ°Th, ~a2Th, aa4u, and ~alPa are necessary before any elaborate interpretation of the observed anomalies is attempted. BROUARDEL, J. and E. RxNcK, 1963. Mesure de la production organique en M6diterran~e, dans les parages de Monaco, h l'aide du 14°C. Ann. Inst. Ocdanogr., Monaco, N.S., 40 (2): 109-164. I1 r6sulte de cette 6rude que la mesure de la productivit6 par la m6thode du 14C est susceptible de donner d'int6ressants r6sultats, mais elle n'est pas d'un emploi aussi simple qu'on pourrait le croire. Elle exige d'Stre utilis~e avec toutes les precautions dont nous avons essays d'indiquer les plus importantes. De route facon l'interpretation des r6sultats reste delicate. Une standardisation des techniques employees serait hautement souhaitable en vue de permettre une comparaison valable des r6sultats obtenus par les diff6rents auteurs.
BROWN, R. S., 1963. Wave propagation through (8): 441--443. Expressions are derived for the mean squared value propagated through a turbulent wake. It is assumed the wake can be approximated as the product of a
a turbulent wake. J. Atmos. Terr. Phys., 25 of the phase fluctuations of a wave which has that the index of refraction fluctuations within r a n d o m function and a decaying exponential.