Colouration of textiles using roasted peanut skin- an agro processing residue

Colouration of textiles using roasted peanut skin- an agro processing residue

Accepted Manuscript Colouration of textiles using roasted peanut skin- an agro processing residue Ritu Pandey, Sweta Patel, Pintu Pandit, Shanmugam Na...

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Accepted Manuscript Colouration of textiles using roasted peanut skin- an agro processing residue Ritu Pandey, Sweta Patel, Pintu Pandit, Shanmugam Nachimuthu, Seiko Jose PII:

S0959-6526(17)32572-6

DOI:

10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.10.268

Reference:

JCLP 11060

To appear in:

Journal of Cleaner Production

Received Date: 12 July 2017 Revised Date:

20 September 2017

Accepted Date: 24 October 2017

Please cite this article as: Pandey R, Patel S, Pandit P, Nachimuthu S, Jose S, Colouration of textiles using roasted peanut skin- an agro processing residue, Journal of Cleaner Production (2017), doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.10.268. This is a PDF file of an unedited manuscript that has been accepted for publication. As a service to our customers we are providing this early version of the manuscript. The manuscript will undergo copyediting, typesetting, and review of the resulting proof before it is published in its final form. Please note that during the production process errors may be discovered which could affect the content, and all legal disclaimers that apply to the journal pertain.

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Abstract Textile grade dye was extracted from roasted peanut skin (Arachais hypogaea) through aqueous extraction. The dye was characterised by phyto-chemical, uv visible

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spectroscopy and ftir analysis. Cotton, silk and wool fabrics were dyed at different temperatures as well as using microwave energy without using any mordants. Dyed fabrics were assessed for their colour values, fastness properties and ultraviolet protection factor. All

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the fabrics shown good affinity for the dye. Uniform dyeing was observed in all fabrics; however, the dye exhaustion was higher in silk and wool than cotton. The dyed fabrics

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possessed good to very good fastness properties with and an ultraviolet protection factor up to 65. A comparative evaluation of synthetic dyes required to produce the same shade with that of peanut skin dye was also performed.

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fastness, UV protection

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Keywords – agro waste utilization, natural dye, peanut skin, sustainable dyeing, colour

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Dye solution

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UV Protective

Application of Peanut skin dye at 30°C/60°C/ 90°C/Microwave.

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Cotton/Silk/Wool Fabric

UV A+UV B

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Peanut skin extracted in boiled water

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Peanut skin

Dyed Fabric

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Colouration of textiles using roasted peanut skin- an agro processing residue

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1. Introduction Research efforts are attaining priority for agro-waste utilization which would not only

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reduce agricultural waste but also provide additional income for the farmers or

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processing industries (Hazarika et al., 2017). A number of agricultural wastes are

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identified as a source of naturally occurring dye for a range of applications. Nevertheless,

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only a few of them could firmly bind with the textile fibres. The demand for natural dyed

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fabric is increasing because of the customer concern about skin safety and the

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environment. However, there are only selective brands and shades (are) available in the

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market. This is mainly due to poor dye yield from the dye source as well as lack of

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availability of the raw material (Jose et al., 2016). An agricultural waste can serve as a

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dye in the textile industry if it is abundantly available, provides sufficient dye yield, and

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possesses good fastness properties. Peanut (Arachis hypogaea), an oilseed crop is

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important to the source of oil. It is grown in the semiarid tropical region under rain fed

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conditions. India ranks first in the world with more than 25% (cultivating) cultivated area

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under peanut (cultivation). In 2014-15, India produced 6.68 million tons of groundnut

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from an area of 4.19 million ha with an average yield of 1591 kg/ha (Annual report,

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ICAR-Directorate of Groundnut Research, 2014-15). A major part of the peanut

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production goes to the peanut processing industry, where after shelling the kernel, the

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inner red colour skin of the peanut is normally removed for preparing peanut snacks and

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roasted peanut. The red colour skin is generally thrown as waste or used as low-cost

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fillers in animal feed, although it has astringent taste and anti-nutrient properties (Hill,

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2002). An estimated 35–45 g of peanut skin is generated per kg of shelled peanut kernel.

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Over 0.74 million metric tons of peanut skins are produced annually worldwide as a by-

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ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT product of the peanut processing industry (Sobolev and Cole 2003). India is thus

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producing around 0.3 million kg of peanut skin. A strong correlation was found between

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the colour of peanut skin and polyphenol content, and it was reported that the redness and

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hue angle of the peanut skin increased with increasing (in) total phenolic content

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(Chukwumah et al., 2009). The peanut skin hue angle varies from cultivar to cultivar.

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The flavonoids found in peanut skin are responsible for its colour, help in combating

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oxidative stress and are hepatoprotective, antiviral, antimicrobial, anticancer, anti-

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inflammatory and growth regulator. The chemical composition analysis and antioxidant

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and anti-inflammatory properties of peanut skin have been studied by many workers

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(Constanza et al., 2012, Nepote et al., 2002, Lewis et al., 2013). Various properties of the

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peanut shell, which is another by-product of peanut processing industry, have already

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been studied (Liu et al., 2016, Akgul and Tozluoğlu, 2008, Ramirez-Lopez et al., 2010).

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Peanut husk was used to remove colour from the Indosol Yellow BG dye containing

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waste water and achieved maximum dye removal of 79.7 mg/g (Sadaf and Bhatti, 2014).

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However, despite its abundance, there is no systematic work done on dyeing property of

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the peanut skin.

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In the present work, an attempt was made to extract colour from the roasted peanut

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skin, collected from the peanut processing industry. With the extracted colour, dyeing

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was performed on cotton, silk and wool fabrics using the conventional method and

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microwave energy. The colour values and fastness properties were also studied.The

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objective of this study is to utilise peanut skin as a dye for textiles and give a value

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addition to textiles as well as peanut processing waste.

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2. Materials and Methods

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ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT Cotton and degummed silk fabric were purchased from local market, Kanpur, India. Wool

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fabric was sourced from M/s CSWRI Avikanagar, India. Roasted peanut skin was collected

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from peanut processing industry at Kanpur, India. The skin was thoroughly washed with cold

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water, dried at ambient condition and made free from foreign materials. Other chemicals used

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are acetic acid (assay 99 %), chloroform (assay 99.5%), hydrochloric acid (assay 35-37%),

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sulphuric acid (assay 99.8%), ferric chloride hexahydrate (assay 98%) and ethanol (all

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chemicals were procured from Merck, India), Ultravon JU (wetting agent).

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2.1. Fabric pre-treatment

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The cotton fabric was enzymatically desized using 0.5 g/l amylase, 0.5 g/l wetting agent

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at 70 C for 1 h. The material to liquor ratio (MLR) was kept as 1:20 (Arputharaj et al., 2017).

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The combined scouring and bleaching of cotton fabric was performed using alkaline peroxide

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solution. The previously wetted desized cotton fabric was dipped in a beaker containing 4.0

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g/l NaOH, 6.0 g/l H2O2 and 2.0 g/l sodium silicate. The beaker was heated to 80ºC for 30

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minutes in closed condition. After treatment, the bleached fabric was taken out and washed in

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dilute acetic acid solution and then with water until free from residual acid and alkali. It is the

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dried at ambient temperature. The scouring of wool fabric was performed as follows. 1.0%

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Na2CO3 and 1.0% Ultravon JU (on the weight of fabric) was taken in a beaker. Water was

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added to in the MLR 1:20. The previously wetted unscoured wool fabric was entered in to it

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and the beaker was heated for 30 minutes at 60ºC. After treatment, the scoured wool fabric

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was taken out and washed with water until free from residual alkali. It was then dried at

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ambient temperature. The silk fabric was dipped in dilute acetic acid (5.0%) solution for 30

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minutes at room temperature, keeping the MLR 1:20. It was then taken out, washed with

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water and dried at ambient temperature. This was done to remove the temporary surface

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finishing on silk fabric.

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2.2. Preparation of dye solution

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ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT 150 g of peanut skin was weighed and two litres of water was added to it and boiled for

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half an hour. The solution was then cooled, and the clear solution was filtered. The extraction

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was once again repeated with one liter of water and kept for overnight and filtered. Both the

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first and second extracted solutions were mixed and made up to three litres and used as a

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stock solution (5% dye solution). For calculating the yield of crude dye, the process was

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repeated, and the dye solution was kept at 80ºC in a hot air for evaporation of water. The

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dried extract was then collected, crushed well by the pestle and the yield of the crude dye was

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calculated.

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2.3. Phytochemical analysis of peanut skin extract

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The phytochemical analysis of peanut skin was performed as following (Teli and Pandit,

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2017, Teli et al., 2017).

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2.3.1. Analysis of Saponin: Two ml of peanut dye extract was placed in a test tube and shaken

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vigorously. The formation of stable foam was taken as an indication of the presence of

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saponin.

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2.3.2. Analysis of Phenol and Tannin: Two ml dye extract was mixed with 2 ml of 2%

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solution of ferric chloride. A blue-green colouration indicated the presence of phenol and

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tannin.

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2.3.3. Analysis of Terpenoid (Salkowski’s Test): Two ml dye extract was mixed with 2 ml of

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chloroform. Then 2 ml of conc. H2SO4 was added and shaken gently. A reddish brown

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colouration on the interface was formed to show the presence of terpenoid.

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2.3.4. Analysis of Flavonoid (Zinc-Hydrochloride reduction test): Two ml dye extract was

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mixed with zinc dust and con. HCl was added to it drop wise. It gave red colour after few

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minutes, which indicated the presence of the flavonoid.

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2.3.5. Analysis of Glycoside: Two ml dye extract was mixed with 2 ml of glacial acetic acid

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and 2 drops of 2.0% ferric chloride. The mixture was poured into another test tube containing

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2 ml of conc. H2SO4. A brown ring on the interface indicated the presence of glycoside.

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2.4. Dyeing Bleached cotton, scoured wool and degummed silk fabrics were cut into a size of 15 x

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15 cm. 75% on weight of fabric (owf) of peanut skin was used for dyeing, which is

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equivalent to 5.0% peanut dye extract. The required amount of the dye solution and

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previously wetted fabric samples was taken in a beaker with 15:1 ratio and loaded in the

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Infrared dyeing machine. The dyeing was carried for 30 minutes at 30 °C, 60 ºC and 90 ºC.

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After dyeing, the temperature of the bath was reduced to room temperature. Then the dyed

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samples were taken out, washed thoroughly with water and soaped using 2 g/l soap solution

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(Ultravon JU) for 30 min at 70°C. After soaping, the samples were rinsed with cold water and

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dried at ambient temperature. In the case of dyeing with microwave energy, the dye solution:

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fabric was taken in the ratio 15:1. The dye solution was taken in a glass beaker and

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previously wetted fabrics were added to it. The beaker was closed with a watch glass and

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kept in the microwave oven. The dyeing was carried using the microwave at 360W for 10

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minutes. After dyeing, the samples were taken out, washed thoroughly with water and soaped

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as described earlier. The samples were then rinsed with cold water and dried at ambient

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temperature (Haggag et al., 2014). To analyse the dyeability of peanut skin in bulk scale,

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three garments were prepared with the above-said fabrics. The garments were dyed in a steel

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vessel keeping the temperature 90ºC for 30 minutes. After dyeing, the dyed garments were

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given a soaping treatment and dried at ambient temperature.

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2.5. Analysis of physical properties of the fabric

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Structural parameters of the fabric like ends per inches, (EPI), picks per inches (PPI),

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(ASTM D3775), and areal density (GSM) (ASTM D 3776) were measured by following

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ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT above mentioned standard methods. The tensile properties viz., breaking stress, breaking

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strain %, tensile modulus and specific work of rupture, etc., of the fabric were measured

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using Instron tensile tester (Model 5567) following (ASTM D 5035) method (Jose et al.,

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2017). The water absorbency of the fabrics before dyeing was tested by placing a drop of

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water on the surface of the fabric and calculating the time to absorb the water completely by

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it.

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2.6. Analysis of colour value of dyed samples

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The colorimetric values (l*, a*, b*, hue and K/S) of dyed samples and whiteness

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index of pre-treated fabrics (Hunter scale) were evaluated using Datacolor match computer

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colour matching system at D65 illuminate/ 10° observers according to AATCC Evaluation

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Procedure 6 (AATCC, 2003).

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2.7. Measurement of fastness properties of dyed fabrics

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The washing fastness, rubbing fastness (wet and dry), light fastness and perspiration

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fastness of the dyed samples were measured as per IS: 3361:79, ISO-105-X12, ISO 105-

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BO2:2002 and ISO- E04:2009 methods respectively.

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2.8. Colorimetric analysis and dye uptake

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The colour strength of the dye solution before and after dyeing was measured using

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photo calorimetre, (Microprocessor, Model no 1312). Based on the absorbance value of

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residual dye liquor, the dye concentration (mg/l) was calculated with help of Microcal Origin

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software.

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The percentage of dye uptake by the fabric was calculated by the formula;

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Dye uptake (%) =

A1 – A2 ------------ X 100 A1

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Where A1 and A2 are the quantities of dye (mg/l) in the dye bath before and after dyeing

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respectively.

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2.9. FTIR and UV visible spectrophotometer analysis. FTIR analysis of peanut skin dye was performed using a double beam FTIR

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spectrophotometer by ATR (Attenuated Total Reflectance) attachment (Bruker, model-

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Alpha). The transmittance spectra were recorded at wave numbers from 500 to 4000 cm-1.

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UV-visible spectrophotometer analysis of peanut skin extract was carried out by scanning from 300 to 800 nm wavelength using UV-1800 spectrophotometer (Shimadzu).

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2.10. Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) analysis of dyed fabrics

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The UPF values of the undyed and peanut skin extract dyed fabrics were measured

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using Shimadzu UV-2600 series in the range of 280 to 400 nm, Model UV-2600

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(A11665101436). The UPF value of each fabric was determined from the total spectral

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transmittance based on AS/NZS 4399:1996 method.

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3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

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3.1. Phytochemical analysis of peanut skin extract

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The phytochemical screening of chemical constituents of the peanut skin extract was

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performed by qualitative tests as mentioned before. The results revealed the presence of

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active compounds in aqueous extract. Phytochemical constituents of peanut skin have shown

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the presence of Saponin, Terpenoid, Glycoside, Flavonoid, Phenols and Tannin (Nepote et

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al., 2002).

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3.2. Crude dye extraction from roasted peanut skin

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The selection of the solvent for the extraction of colour from natural dye depends

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upon its affinity to the natural dye. In the present study, the colour components of the peanut

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skin were found to be soluble in hot water. Therefore, the dye was extracted with hot water

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ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT and after the evaporation of water at 80°C, the crude dye yield was found to be 22.8 %, which

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means, it is possible to get 22.8 g of dye from 100 g of roasted peanut skin. Generally, the

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crude dye yield is found to be less (1-20%) in the case of natural dyes (Ammayappan and

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Jose., 2015). However, the above cited figure for dye yield is better than many of the natural

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dye sources. The powdered dye obtained from peanut skin is shown in figure 1. After the

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colour extraction, the colour of the peanut skin faded and became slightly brown in colour.

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This may be because of the removal of auxochromes and chromophore from the skin.

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3.3. Dyeing

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The colour extracted from peanut skin is shown as in figure 1. It is found that the

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natural dye extracted from peanut skin have an affinity for cotton, wool and silk fabrics

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without using any mordant. However, it shows a comparative higher affinity towards protein

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fibres like wool and silk than cellulosic fibre like cotton. The higher affinity of the peanut

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skin dye towards protein fibre may be due to the presence of both amino and carboxylic acids

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group present in the wool and silk fiber. Peanut skin dye contains tannin (Mongkholrattanasit

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et al., 2011), which can form either a covalent bond or ionic bond with protein fibres and

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hydrogen bond with cotton (equations 1, 2 and 3). The colour fixed firmly, without using any

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dyeing auxiliaries or metallic mordants. Thus, dyeing of textiles using the above-said dye is a

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totally ecofriendly process. Tannin is a well known natural mordant, which fixes the colour

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on the fabric. Since peanut skin extract contains tannin, it helped in dyeing without any

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additional mordant (Prabhu and Teli, 2014). The possible reaction mechanism of dyeing of

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peanut skin with wool, silk and cotton is given below.

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Peanut dye- OH + HOOC-Wool/Silk- NH2

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bond formation) ----------

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1

Or

dye - O-OC-Wool- NH2 (Covalent

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Peanut dye- OH + HOOC-Wool/Silk- NH2

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attraction) ---------

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Peanut dye- OH + OH- Cellulose

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(Hydrogen bond formation) ----------

+ HOOC-Wool- NH3 - O - dye (Ionic

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dye - OH - - - OH- Cellulose

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------------Insert Figure 1 here ----------

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The scanned images of shades obtained using peanut skin extract at various dyeing

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conditions are as shown in figure 2. It was observed that the dye uptake was minimal in all

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three fabrics, dyed at 30°C. Peach colour was observed in the samples of cotton and silk, and

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cream shade was observed with wool fabric. At 30°C, no additional energy was provided to

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the dye molecules for exhaustion and fixation which resulted in poor dyeability. The highest

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dye uptake was observed with silk followed by wool and cotton. At 60ºC, the moderate

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temperature was given for dyeing, as a result the dye uptake was enhanced. Bright peach

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shades were observed after dyeing at 60ºC. The dye uptake of silk fabric was found to be

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higher than other two fabrics. The data received from the analysis of colour measurement of

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residual colour liquor as well as K/S value support this information. All dyed samples were

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dyed evenly, i.e. level dyeing was observed. At 90ºC, the dye uptake was found to be at

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saturated level. This is because of high temperature treatment was given, which helped the

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dye molecule to penetrate inside the fibre and fix firmly. At 90ºC, wool and silk showed

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higher colour uptake than cotton fabric. All samples were dyed evenly. Dyeing using

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microwave energy is comparatively a new technique. It was observed that the dye uptake

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was medium and peach shade was obtained in at three fabrics. Some samples were dyed

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unevenly. This is because of lack of agitation given to the samples during the exposure of

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microwave energy. The samples dyed using microwave energy showed almost the same

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colour to the samples dyed at 60ºC. In all cases of dyeing conditions, the physical properties

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of the fabric viz, EPI, PPI, GSM doesn’t mark significant changes. However, there is a

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notable decrease in the tenacity of the fabric was observed in the case of microwave dyed

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samples. ------------------------ Insert Figure 2 here -------------------

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------------------------ Insert Table 1 here -------------------

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Dyeing of peanut skin extract at 90°C gave the best result in terms of dye uptake.

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Thus, it is decided to replicate the recipe in bulk level for dyeing of garments. Three garments

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were prepared with cotton, wool, and silk fabric and dyed with peanut skin extract. The

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dyeing was performed in an open steel vessel at 90°C for the duration of 30 minutes. Here

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also, the deep colour was developed with silk and wool followed by cotton. The dyed

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garments are as shown in figure 3.

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----------------Insert Figure 3 here ---------------

The absorbance data obtained from photo calorimetric analysis of dye liquor before

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and after dyeing is shown in table 1. During dyeing, the fabric uptake the colour from the dye

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solution, as a result, the colour intensity of the dye solution got decreased. Accordingly, there

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is a decrease in absorbance was observed. From the absorbance data, the dye uptake was

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calculated using earlier mentioned formula and given in table 1. It was found that the amount

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of dye uptake is directly proportional to temperature, i.e., as temperature increased, the dye

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uptake also increased. The dye uptake in case of cotton is less than that of wool and silk

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fabric, irrespective of the dyeing condition. This indicates the relatively low affinity of

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cellulosic material towards the peanut skin extract. Maximum dye uptake was observed in the

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sample dyed with silk using microwave energy and the minimum was observed with the

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cotton sample dyed at 30°C.

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3.4. Computer colour matching All the dyed samples were analysed for their colour values using computer colour

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matching software. In table 1, l* value indicates the depth of the shade, a* value indicates the

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tone of the shade in greener or redder region, b* value indicates the tone of the shade in

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yellow or blue region and K/S value indicate the total colour value of the dyed fabric. The

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higher K/S value indicates that the dyed fabric has more colour in it. In all dyed samples at

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30°C, the l* value is on the higher side, which indicates the shade is lighter because of

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minimal dye uptake. The l* value decreased in other methods of dyeing. Silk sample dyed at

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60°C showed the highest value of a* (13.07), ie. the redder tone. Similarly, wool dyed at

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30°C showed the least value of a* (3.57). In the case of wool dyeing using microwave energy

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shown highest b* value of 15.37, ie, the bluer tone. Similarly, minimum b* value observed

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with cotton samples (8.21) dyed at 30°C. The K/S value was highest in silk fabric dyed at

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90°C (27.0) and minimum at cotton sample dyed at 30°C (7.2). In case of silk dyed using

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microwave energy, the dye uptake is 67 % and K/S is 19.2., while in case of 60ºC, dye uptake

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is 35.3 % and K/S is 19.4. Apparently, there is no difference in the colour value of the dyed

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fabrics. This indicates high dye uptake, but poor fixation of dyes on fabric during microwave

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dyeing. The K/S value was taken after giving a soaping treatment to the dyed fabric. Since

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the colour fixation is not very good, the colour may be stripped from the fabric during

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soaping and ultimately resulted in lower colour value in terms of K/S. The reason may be,

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during microwave dyeing, the duration of treatment was only 10 minutes at 360 W, while at

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60ºC, the duration of treatment was 30 minutes. The longer duration at 60ºC helped the dyes

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to penetrate inside the fiber bind firmly on the fabric. The same phenomenon has also been

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inferred in the case of wool dyeing also.

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3.5. Colour fastness analysis The fastness of the dyed materials is an important quality parameter for the

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assessment of dye and dyeing. As mentioned before, all the dyes may not have an affinity to

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all kinds of textile fibres. If the affinity is high, the fastness also will be good. The colour

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fastness is rated by using grey scale. Fastness will be good if the rating is on the higher side

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(Say, 5 rating is given if there is no colour change after fastness test and 1 is for poor

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fastness). Except for light fastness, all the grading is 1-5, and for light fastness, grading is 1-

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8. The fastness report of dyed fabric is as shown in Table 2.

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The washing fastness of the dyed sample refers to the stripping of colour from the

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dyed sample, when the samples are subjected to washing at the alkaline condition. It depends

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upon the affinity of the dye to the fabric as well as dyeing conditions. For all dyed samples,

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the washing fastness rating was found to be in between 3/4 to 4/5. Out of 12 dyed samples, 9

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samples showed a rating of 4 and above. This indicates that the colour is attached firmly to

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the fabric. The light fastness of some of the natural dyes is a reported problem with the dying

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of natural dyes. The UV radiation in sunlight causes photodegradation of auxochromes and

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chromophore, causing fading of colour. In the reported work, the majority of the fabric

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samples show a rating of 5/6 to 7. This shows that the dye has sufficient fastness to light. The

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better light fastness properties of the peanut skin extract may be due to the presence of tannin

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content (Samanta and Agarwal, 2009).

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------------------------ Insert Table 2 here -------------------

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Acid and alkali perspiration fastness indicate the change of the colour of the dyed

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fabric when the fabric is reacting with sweat on the human body. The rubbing fastness

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regarding wet fastness and dry fastness was found in the range of 4 to 4/5, showing good

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result. The good fastness properties of silk and wool fabrics, dyed with peanut skin extract

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are attributed to the fact that these dyes contain tannin, which may help in covalent bond

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formation with the fibre (Mongkholrattanasit et al., 2011).

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3.6. FTIR and UV- visible analysis Figure 4 shows the UV-Visible spectra of peanut skin extract in water which has

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maxima at 440 nm. Anthocyanins absorb strongly in the visible and UV spectral range, with

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maximum absorbance falling in the region of 465-560 nm. Their UV absorbing capacity

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varies depending on their specific aglycones, sugar conjugation, and acylation configuration.

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------------------------ Insert figure 4 here -------------------

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FTIR analysis was performed for understanding the functional groups present in the

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peanut skin extract as shown in Figure 5. The spectrum showed a broad peak at 3344 cm-1,

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assigned to the stretching vibration of phenolic –OH group. The broad peak at 3260-3270 cm-

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acid group, most probably the –OH stretching of hydroxyl moiety of carboxylic acids in

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gallic acid-based tannins (Ricci et al., 2015). A small, but sharp peak at 2912 cm-1 indicate

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the presence of C-H stretching in alkanes (Kumar and Thampi, 2015). The peaks at 1740 cm-1

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is assigned to the aliphatic acetoxyl group present in saponin (Amarowicz et al., 1996). A

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sharp peak at 1646 and 1017 cm-1 cm-1indicated the presence of C=C and C=O-CH3 ester

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group present in the saponin (Sharma and Paliwal, 2013). The peak at 1536 cm-1 corresponds

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to the C=C stretching of the aromatic ring system (Maobe and Nyarango,2013). The

322

characteristic peak of the O-H bending and the aromatic ring vibration of condensed tannin is

323

indicated by 1450-60 cm-1 (Arshad et al., 1969).

324

TE D

311

AC C

EP

, indicate the presence of exchangeable protons, likely from alcohol, amine or carboxylic

14

ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT 325

----------------------- Insert figure 5 here -------------------

326 327

3.7. Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) analysis The extent of the ability of the fabric to protect UV radiation is expressed in UPF

329

(Feng et al., 2007). The UPF values are closely related to fibre properties and dye - fibre

330

interactions. The same dye can give different UPF value on different fibres (Chattopadhyay et

331

al., 2013). UPF also depends on the nature of fibre, its fabric construction, thickness, porosity

332

and moisture content (Shahid and Mohammad. 2013). The UPF value of dyed fabrics was

333

determined from the total spectral transmittance based on AS/NZS 4399:1996 (Table 3).

334

From the table, it is found that the dying does not impart UPF for cotton fabric. Only a slight

335

increase in UPF was observed. However, the wool fabric samples showed an increasing trend

336

in UPF after dyeing with peanut skin extract. The UPF factor was increased up to 37% in

337

comparison with un dyed fabric. A notable increase in UPF value was found in the case of

338

silk fabric also after dyeing with peanut skin extract. The UPF value increased from 7.84 to

339

55.73. In all cases of dyeing, the UPF value increased with increase in temperature and

340

samples dyed at 90°C shown highest UPF. This may be because the dark shade is produced at

341

90°C, will usually absorb UV radiations more than light pastel shades and consequently will

342

have a higher UPF rating. The exact component responsible for protection of UV radiation

343

was not identified, however, based on the reports available in the literature, it can be said that

344

the UV blocking property of peanut skin extract may be a synergistic effect of many of the

345

components of the peanut skin in which saponins, tannins, and polyphenols are having a

346

major role (Anita, 2012). These active components have the free radical scavenging

347

capability. The fabric may also possess antimicrobial properties due to the presence of

348

tannins and flavonoids (Shahid et al., 2012; Cushnie and Lamb, 2005), however, the study is

349

not incorporated in the present work.

AC C

EP

TE D

M AN U

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328

15

ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT 350 351

------------------------ Insert Table 3 here -------------------

352 353

3.8. Economics and future prospects Based on our experiment, 750 g of peanut skin is necessary to dye 1.0 kg of fabric (5 %

355

of extracted dye is capable of giving deep shade to the fabric). If we are calculating the

356

current availability of peanut skin (3.0 lakhs kg) in India, approximately, 4.0 lakhs kg of the

357

fabric can be dyed. This figure is important in the current scenario of Indian textile industry,

358

as the textile industries are facing problems associated with highly polluted discharge from

359

the effluent plant and the government implemented stringent policies for effluent treatment.

360

Many of the small and medium textile industries, which were operated in rural and village

361

level, were closed since they cannot afford high cost water treatment plant like RO. No

362

chemicals were used in the current study and therefore the effluent generated from the

363

process is safe for discharge at agricultural land in a controlled manner. The demand for

364

natural dyed fabric is increasing day by day and it is costlier than synthetic dyed fabric. On

365

the contrary, peanut skin is cheap and abundant agro processing waste material and is

366

available in any part of the country. Thus the technology mentioned in the paper will help to

367

sustain the small and medium scale dyeing industries.

369

SC

M AN U

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AC C

368

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354

4. Conclusion

370

Cotton, silk and wool fabrics were dyed with the dye extracted from the roasted peanut

371

skin. The yield of crude dye was found to be 22.8 %. The colour uptake was highest for silk

372

followed by wool and cotton. The dyed samples possessed good fastness properties. High

373

ultraviolet protection, skin-friendliness, and good wash fastness properties make the dyed

374

garments suitable for sun dresses, formal wears and casual wears. It is concluded that roasted

16

ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT 375

peanut skin, which is an agricultural processing waste can successfully utilise for the dyeing

376

of textiles.

377 378

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Kumar, S. N., Thampi, N., 2015. Phytochemical screening and characterization of the

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Liu, W., Hao, Y., Jiang, J., Zhu, A., Zhu, J., Dong, Z., 2016. Production of a bioflocculant

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Mongkholrattanasit, R., Kryštůfek, J., Wiener, J., Viková, M., 2011. Dyeing, fastness, and

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UV protection properties of silk and wool fabrics dyed with eucalyptus leaf extract by the

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exhaustion process. Fibres Text East Eur. 19, 94-99.

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Nepote, V., Grosso, N.R., Guzman, C.A., 2002. Extraction of antioxidant components from

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peanut skins. Grasas Aceites. 53, 391-395. doi: 10.3989/gya.2002.v53.i4.335

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Prabhu, K.H., Teli, M.D., 2014. Eco-dyeing using Tamarindusindica L. seed coat tannin as a

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natural mordant for textiles with antibacterial activity. J. Saudi Chem. Soc. 18, 864-872.

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doi.org/10.1016/j.jscs.2011.10.014

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Ramirez-Lopez, E.M., Corona-Hernandez, J., Avelar-Gonzalez, F.J., Omil, F., Thalasso, F.,

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2010. Biofiltration of methanol in an organic biofilter using peanut shells as

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medium. Bioresource Technol. 101, 87-91. doi.org/10.1016/j.biortech.2008.10.064.

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Ricci, A., Olejar, K. J., Parpinello, G. P., Kilmartin, P. A., Versari, A., 2015. Application of

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fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy in the characterization of tannins. Appl.

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Spectrosc. Rev. 50, 407-442. doi.org/10.1080/05704928.2014.1000461. Sadaf, S., Bhatti, H. N., 2014. Batch and fixed bed column studies for the removal of Indosol

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Yellow BG dye by peanut husk. J. Taiwan Inst. Chem. Eng, 45, 541-553.

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Samanta, A.K., Agarwal, P., 2009. Application of natural dyes on textiles. Indian. J. Fibre. Text. 34, 384-399.

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Shahid, M., Ahmad, A., Yusuf, M., Khan, M.I., Khan, S.A., Manzoor, N. Mohammad, F., 2012. Dyeing, fastness and antimicrobial properties of woolen yarns dyed with gallnut

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Shahid, M., Mohammad, F.2013. Recent advancements in natural dye applications: a review. J. Cleaner. Prod. 53, 310-331. doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2013.03.031

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Sharma, V. E. E. N. A., Paliwal, R., 2013. Isolation and characterization of saponins from Moringa oleifera (moringaceae) pods. Int J Pharm Pharm Sci. 5, 179-183. Sobolev, V.S., Cole, R.J., 2003. Note on utilization of peanut seed test. J Sci Food Agric. 84,

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105–111. doi: 10.1002/jsfa.1593.

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458

infectoria

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464

Teli, M. D., & Pandit, P., 2017. Development of thermally stable and hygienic colored

465

cotton fabric made by treatment with natural coconut shell extract. J. Ind. Text.

466

1528083717725113. doi.org/10.1177/1528083717725113.

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Teli, M. D., Pandit, P., Basak, S., 2017. Coconut shell extract imparting multifunction

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properties to ligno-cellulosic material. J. Ind. Text. 1528083716686937.

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476 477 478 479 480 481 482 483

Dye solution extracted from Fig.1. (b) Powdered dye extracted from

peanut skin

peanut skin

EP

475

Fig. 1. (a)

AC C

474

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473

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ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT 484 485 486

489 490 491 492 493 494 495

RI PT

Wool -60ºC

Silk -90ºC

Cotton- microwave

Silk- microwave

SC

Wool- 30°C

Cotton- 90ºC

Wool -90ºC

TE D

Silk -60ºC

EP

488

Silk -30°C

Fig. 2. Shades obtained from dyeing of peanut skin

AC C

487

Cotton - 60ºC

M AN U

Cotton - 30°C

Wool -microwave

22

ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT 496 497

Fig. 3. Dyed garment using peanut skin extract 3.(a) Cotton 3.(b) Wool 3.(c) Silk

M AN U

499

SC

RI PT

498

500 501 502

506 507 508 509 510 511 512 513 514 515

EP

505

AC C

504

TE D

503

23

ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT 516 517

M AN U

SC

RI PT

518

519

523 524 525 526 527 528 529 530 531 532

TE D

522

EP

521

Fig. 4. UV spectra of peanut skin extract in distilled water

AC C

520

24

ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT 533 534 535

RI PT

1.02

1

0.98

0.96

1536 1740 1646

3738

0.94

0.92 4000

2912

SC

3340

3590

3182

M AN U

Transmittance

1458

2774

2366

1958

Wave number (cm-1)

536

Fig. 5. FTIR spectra of peanut skin

540 541 542 543 544 545 546 547 548

EP

539

AC C

538

TE D

537

1017

1550

1142

734

25

ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT 549 550

Table 1 Computer colour matching data Dyeing Fabric method

Dye Absorbance of uptake exhausted dyebath (%)

L*

5.04

72.01 11.39

8.21

7.2

60°C

0.8239

10.1

69.35

9.65

9.6

90°C

0.6778

30.48

64.86 11.42 13.27 13.9

Microwave

0.7447

20.61

57.11 10.84 12.69 10.8

30°C

0.7696

17.32

68.63

60°C

0.6383

35.30

59.88 13.07 12.41 19.4

90°C

0.4318

64.47

54.31 13.04 11.52 27.0

Microwave

0.4089

67.10

60.00 10.42 12.10 19.2

30°C

0.8539

5.04

73.73

3.57

14.32

60°C

0.7959

12.5

60.02

9.18

12.42 12.9

90°C

0.6576

32.89

56.26 10.72 11.07 23.7

0.7447

20.61

61.21

555 556 557 558

AC C

Microwave

SC

8.11

M AN U

TE D

EP

Wool

554

K/S

0.8539

Silk

553

b*

30°C

Cotton

552

a*

8.32

7.85

Hue

RI PT

551

11.58

8.8

7.4

15.37 11.6

35.8 49.9 49.3 49.5 54.3 43.5 41.5 49.2 76.0 53.5 45.9 62.9

26

ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT 559 560

Table 2 Fastness properties of peanut skin extract dyed fabrics Fabric

Perspiration

Rubbing

Washing

Light

fastness

fastness

fastness

fastness

4

5/6

4

6

4/5

4

6

4/5

6

60ºC

Alkali

Wet

Dry

Cotton

4

3/4

4

4/5

Silk

4

3

3

4/5

Wool

4

4

4

Cotton

4

4

4/5

4/5

Silk

3/4

3/4

4

4/5

4

6

Wool

4

4

4

4

4

6

Cotton

4/5

4

4

4/5

3/4

5/6

Silk

4

4

4

4/5

3/4

6

4/5

4

4

4/5

4

5/6

4

3/4

4

4/5

3/4

6

Silk

3/4

3/4

3/4

4/5

4

6

Wool

4

3/4

4

4/5

4

6

º

90 C Wool

562 563 564 565 566 567 568

AC C

Microwave

EP

Cotton

TE D

30°C

Acid

M AN U

method

RI PT

Dyeing

SC

561

27

ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT 569 570

Table 3 Ultraviolet protection value of peanut skin extract dyed fabric UV – B

UPF

(315 – 400 nm)

(290 – 315 nm)

(290 – 400 nm)

Bleached cotton

11.70

9.08

10.22

30°C

11.25

8.00

11.22

60°C

10.62

7.64

11.89

90°C

10.62

7.64

11.98

Microwave Degummed silk 30°C 60°C

9.35

6.78

13.52

18.82

10.17

7.84

4.61

2.35

35.33

3.41

1.77

46.22

TE D

Silk

RI PT

Cotton

UV-A Dyeing method

SC

Fabric

M AN U

571

572 573

1.61

55.73

Microwave

3.54

2.18

40.13

Scoured wool

3.21

1.80

47.42

30°C

6.55

1.39

48.92

60°C

4.83

1.24

57.47

90°C

3.40

1.15

65.18

Microwave

3.98

1.20

61.38

EP

2.41

AC C

Wool

90°C

Scale - 15–24: Good, 25- 39: Very good, 40-50>:- Excellent

ACCEPTED MANUSCRIPT Highlights

Textile grade dye was extracted from roasted peanut skin- an agro processing waste



The dye was characterised by using various analytical methods



Cotton, wool and silk fabrics were dyed using the dye without using any mordents



The colour fastness properties of the dyed fabrics were found to be good



The dyed fabric possessed an ultraviolet protection factor up to 65

AC C

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