- Email: [email protected]
Contents volume 7, 1983
397
CONTENTS VOLUME 7, 1983 Research Papers Numerical model of the shoreline change at Oarai Beach N.C. Kraus and S. Harikai (Tokyo, Japan) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The influence of beach porosity on wave uprush and backwash A.R. Packwood (Bristol, Great Britain) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Open-boundary conditions for open-coast hurricane storm surge B.A. Harper (Manly Vale, N.S.W., Australia) and R.J. Sobey (TownsviUe, Qld., Australia) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Initiation o f sand transport over coarse beds in tidal entrances A.J. Mehta and B.A. Christensen (Gainesville, Fla., U.S.A.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
61
No te Review of conditions for uses of the Bruun Rule of erosion P. Bruun (Trondheim, Norway) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
77
Discussion On the structural integrity of dolos units under dynamic loading conditions G.W. Timco (Ottawa, Ont., Canada) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Comments in the paper by G.W. Timco " O n the structural integrity of dolos units under dynamic loading conditions" H.F. Burcharth (Aalborg, Denmark) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Erratum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Research Papers Wave setup/setdown and longshore current on non-planar beaches W.G. McDougal and R.T. Hudspeth (Corvallis, Oreg., U.S.A.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Longshore sediment transport on non-planar beaches W.G. McDougal and R.T. Hudspeth (Corvallis, Oreg., U.S.A.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The effect of an offshore bank in attenuating waves M.J. Tucker, A.P. Carr and E.G. Pitt (Taunton, Great Britain) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Measurements of coastal suspended sediment concentrations S.M. Antsyferov (Moscow, U.S.S.R.), T. BasiSski (Gdaflsk, Poland) and N.V. Pykhov (Moscow, U.S.S.R.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Beach scraping -- it is damaging to beach stability? P. Bruun (Trondheim, Norway) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1 29
41
91
97 102
103 119 133
145 167
Discussions Laboratory study on the shoreline changes behind a coastal structure by K Mizumura and N. Shirashi - - Discussion R. Silvester (Nedlands, W.A., Australia) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Laboratory study on the shoreline changes behind a coastal structure by K. Mizumura and N. Shirashi Discussion P. Bruun (Trondheim, Norway) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
177
Report Mexican Symposium on Port Planning Design and Construction P. Bruun (Trondheim, Norway) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
183
Book Reviews Floods due to High Winds and Tides. D.H. Peregrine (Editor) -- F. Gerritsen . . . . . .
185
-
175
-
398
8tormwater Hydrology and Drainage. D. Stephenson -- W.E. Wyatt . . . . . . . . . . . .
188
Research Papers A note on the accuracy of the mild-slope equation N. Booij (Delft, The Netherlands) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Estimation of multi-modal directional wave spectra from tri-orthogonal measurements J. van Heteren (The Hague, The Netherlands) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Analytical determination of nearshore wave height variation due to refraction shoaling and friction P. Nielsen (Sydney, N.S.W., Australia) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . On rubble-mound breakwaters of composite slope E. Naheer and V. Buslov (Haifa, Israel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A numerical experiment on nearshore circulation in standing edge waves A. Kaneko (Fukuoka, Japan) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Open boundaries in short wave simulations -- a new approach J. Larsen and H. Dancy (Horsholm, Denmark) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Boundary integral equation solutions for solitary wave generation, propagation and run-up S.K. Kim, P.L.-F. Liu and J.A. Liggett (Ithaca, N.Y., U.S.A.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Evaluation of scale effects in hydraulic models by analysis of laminar and turbulent flows O.J. Jensen and P. Klinting (Horsholm, Denmark) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Surfzone currents D.R. Basco (College Station, Texas, U.S.A.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Harmonic generation by waves propagating over a submerged step S.R. Massel (Gdansk, Poland) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wave reflection from a vertical permeable wave absorber P.A. Madsen (Horsholm, Denmark) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
191
205
233 253 27l 285
299
319 331 357 381
CONTENTS VOLUME 7, 1983 Research Papers Numerical model of the shoreline change at Oarai Beach N.C. Kraus and S. Harikai (Tokyo, Japan) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The influence of beach porosity on wave uprush and backwash A.R. Packwood (Bristol, Great Britain) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Open-boundary conditions for open-coast hurricane storm surge B.A. Harper (Manly Vale, N.S.W., Australia) and R.J. Sobey (TownsviUe, Qld., Australia) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Initiation o f sand transport over coarse beds in tidal entrances A.J. Mehta and B.A. Christensen (Gainesville, Fla., U.S.A.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
61
No te Review of conditions for uses of the Bruun Rule of erosion P. Bruun (Trondheim, Norway) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
77
Discussion On the structural integrity of dolos units under dynamic loading conditions G.W. Timco (Ottawa, Ont., Canada) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Comments in the paper by G.W. Timco " O n the structural integrity of dolos units under dynamic loading conditions" H.F. Burcharth (Aalborg, Denmark) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Erratum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Research Papers Wave setup/setdown and longshore current on non-planar beaches W.G. McDougal and R.T. Hudspeth (Corvallis, Oreg., U.S.A.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Longshore sediment transport on non-planar beaches W.G. McDougal and R.T. Hudspeth (Corvallis, Oreg., U.S.A.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The effect of an offshore bank in attenuating waves M.J. Tucker, A.P. Carr and E.G. Pitt (Taunton, Great Britain) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Measurements of coastal suspended sediment concentrations S.M. Antsyferov (Moscow, U.S.S.R.), T. BasiSski (Gdaflsk, Poland) and N.V. Pykhov (Moscow, U.S.S.R.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Beach scraping -- it is damaging to beach stability? P. Bruun (Trondheim, Norway) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1 29
41
91
97 102
103 119 133
145 167
Discussions Laboratory study on the shoreline changes behind a coastal structure by K Mizumura and N. Shirashi - - Discussion R. Silvester (Nedlands, W.A., Australia) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Laboratory study on the shoreline changes behind a coastal structure by K. Mizumura and N. Shirashi Discussion P. Bruun (Trondheim, Norway) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
177
Report Mexican Symposium on Port Planning Design and Construction P. Bruun (Trondheim, Norway) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
183
Book Reviews Floods due to High Winds and Tides. D.H. Peregrine (Editor) -- F. Gerritsen . . . . . .
185
-
175
-
398
8tormwater Hydrology and Drainage. D. Stephenson -- W.E. Wyatt . . . . . . . . . . . .
188
Research Papers A note on the accuracy of the mild-slope equation N. Booij (Delft, The Netherlands) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Estimation of multi-modal directional wave spectra from tri-orthogonal measurements J. van Heteren (The Hague, The Netherlands) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Analytical determination of nearshore wave height variation due to refraction shoaling and friction P. Nielsen (Sydney, N.S.W., Australia) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . On rubble-mound breakwaters of composite slope E. Naheer and V. Buslov (Haifa, Israel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A numerical experiment on nearshore circulation in standing edge waves A. Kaneko (Fukuoka, Japan) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Open boundaries in short wave simulations -- a new approach J. Larsen and H. Dancy (Horsholm, Denmark) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Boundary integral equation solutions for solitary wave generation, propagation and run-up S.K. Kim, P.L.-F. Liu and J.A. Liggett (Ithaca, N.Y., U.S.A.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Evaluation of scale effects in hydraulic models by analysis of laminar and turbulent flows O.J. Jensen and P. Klinting (Horsholm, Denmark) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Surfzone currents D.R. Basco (College Station, Texas, U.S.A.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Harmonic generation by waves propagating over a submerged step S.R. Massel (Gdansk, Poland) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wave reflection from a vertical permeable wave absorber P.A. Madsen (Horsholm, Denmark) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
191
205
233 253 27l 285
299
319 331 357 381