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Development of new high oil contained powder (powder gel) and application to powder make-up
Studies in Surface Science and Catalysis 132 Y. Iwasawa, N. Oyama and H. Kunieda (Editors) cc) 2001 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.
1021
Development of new high oil contained powder (powder gel) and application to powder make-up Hajime Hotta, Yuko Yago, Ryuta Tsuchiya, Mitsuhiro Sasaki, Hiroki Sugasawa, Koji Minami, Takahide Minami and Toshiyuki Suzuki Kao Corporation, Tokyo Research Lab., 2-1-3, Bunka, Sumida, 131-8501 Japan The application of the funicular state that consisted of the continuous phases of powder and oil with dispersed air was succeeded by the control of oil bridging force between spherical porous powder. We named this state powder gel. This product-technology was developed by formulation study of widely available ingredients without special materials and achieved both characters of a liquid and a powder in one foundation. Make-up cosmetics consisted of powder gel were quite different from conventional powdery, oil-gel and liquid foundations. These looked like pressed powder but applied like cream make-up without oily feeling. This novel powder gel formula was applicable widely as a basic powder make-up base. IJntroduction There are many types of foundations such as pressed powder, oil gel, and liquid. Each type has individual characters based on its composition with oil volume [1]. Powdery foundations consist of the pendular state and these are silky to the touch, but lack adhesion and dry the skin with a powdery feeling. Oil gel foundations consist of the slurry state and these give a moist feeling and adhere smoothly, but are oily with a greasiness feeling. Liquid foundations are emulsified by the slurry state. These give a moist feeling, but can not be spread evenly and give too much shiny-finish to require additional face powder. We expected to develop the foundation that adhered with both a silky and a moist feeling. The funicular and the capillary states contain large volume of oil without showing fluidity. But these are not applied to make-up base. In the capillary state, particles are wetted by oil completely without air phase, so a powdery feeling disappears. Therefore in order to achieve both characters of a liquid and a powder in one foundation, it was necessary to investigate in detail about the funicular state. The funicular state consists of continuous networks of powder and oil [1]. Generally flexible network formula are called gel. So we called this continuous networks of powder and oil powder gel, 2. Mixing Properties of Powder in Oil and Analysis of Void Fraction The mixing properties of powder in oil were investigated in mixing resistance with additive volume of oil to powder, using the measuring instrument of oil absorption amount to powder (Frontex, S410D) [2]. Generally ordinary powder in the funicular state aggregated tightly and mixing resistance changed remarkably depend on a few change of oil content. Therefore it was difficult to apply the funicular state to powder make-up base with stability. During
1022 detailed investigation in physical properties of Absorption amount Diameter several powders (Table Shape ofoil(ml/100g) (urn) 1), we found out that Mica 106 7 Flat plate spherical porous powder that can absorb large Mica 84 29 Flat plate amount of oil only Titanium dioxide 28 0.2 Fine particles satisfy required Spherical Nylon beads 62 6 properties. Using the 39 Silica 9 Spherical spherical porous powder, we became to be able to Silica Spherical 282 12 apply the funicular state to powder make-up base with stability, because the change of mixing resistance was small and powder did not aggregate tightly in the funicular state. TTie void fraction of a powder bed was determined by the mercury porosimeter (Shimadzu, Autopore 9220) [3]. The void fraction of pores in particles was distinguished by the change of pore volume at some pre-pressed conditions. Fig.l showed that the void fraction decreased with oil volume increasing. In spherical nonporous silica without pores in particle, oil got into the inter-space between individual particles. And the void fraction decreased suddenly by a few changes of oil volume. As a result, using spherical nonporous silica, the funicular state held only a few air phase and physical properties in the funicular state were not stable. On the other hand in spherical porous silica, the void fraction decreased by absorbing oil to pores. With the holding oil on pores, the funicular state held large air phase in powder and oil networks using spherical porous silica. So air phase decreased moderately by the increase of oil volume with the stability of properties.
Table 1 Characteristics of several powder using in this experiment
3. Part of Oil in a Powder Bed and Characteristics of Powder Gel
0 1 2 Additive volume of oil to powder (ml/g) Figure 1 Void fraction of a powder bed ; (a) Spherical porous silica (b) Ordinary nonporous silica
The part of oil in a powder bed was investigated with the intrusion method using a conical rotor [4,5]. In this case, the shearing force at the contact point between two particles was estimated by the shearing stress measured with this intrusion method [5]. In spherical nonporous silica, the shearing force increased rapidly by the increase of oil content. But in spherical porous silica, the shearing force was stable and small in wide oil content (Fig.2). The shearing force at the contact point between two particles would be explained as the adhesive force of the bridging oil between particles [6]. Next we considered the adhesive
1023
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O Oil gel
o gel Powder
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1 .3^ 30 60 Oil content (wt%) Figure 2 Changes in the shearing force with the ratio of oil to powder (a) Spherical porous silica (b) Ordinary nonporous silica
1^ 0 ) 10 20 30 (1 / Coefficient of dynamic friction • silky feeling
Figure 3 Characteristics of foundations by the sticking force and the dynamic friction
force of the bridging oil between particles, to understand this stable and small shearing force. The spherical porous silica had many large pores, in which the diameter was 0.24^m, so its surface was rough. When the powder was applied with oil absorbing to pores on the rough surface, the oil- bridge was formed between particles using the oil absorbed to pores too. Because the previous articles reported that the adhesive force of bridging oil on the rough surfaces was smaller than that on the flat surfaces [7], we speculated that the shearing force was stable and small in wide oil content using spherical porous silica. As a result of those investigations in the funicular state, we found that the properties of powder gel depended on the adhesive force of oil between particles. And using porous powder the oil held in pores controlled the adhesive force of bridging oil on the rough surfaces. For the evaluation of the characteristics, powder gel type model foundation was prepared. When the shearing and friction properties were measured using the Peeling/Slipping/Scratching TESTER (Shinto-Kagaku, HEIDGN-UR), this model 150 Liquid / Oil gel: foundation showed a silky feeling too shiny to the touch like a pressed powder c Powder gel: ^^/'h (Fig.3). And the sticking property, suitable shiny 100 k Pressed powder: calculated by the moment of the powdery. friction force, showed a moist o feeling like an oil gel foundation. § 50 According to its flexible and continuous networks, the powder gel type foundation achieved both a silky and a moist feeling well 0 -40 -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 30 40 and adhered smoothly to a skin Angle (degree) even without make-up base creams. Figure 4 Reflection profile of foundation applied surface Consequently iht powder gel type
I
1024
before
after
foundation achieved both characters of a powder and a liquid in one foundation as we expected. The reflection properties of foundations depended on angles were measured by the gonio-photometer (Murakami-Shikisai, GCMS-3, Fig.4) [8]. Liquid foundations gave too much shiny and an oily finish and these showed strong specular reflection. Figure 5 Example of finish impression applied P^^^^n^ foundations showed only diffused ofpowder gel to mature woman reflection at ahnost all angles. Because of the intense reflection on wide angles with the powder gel type foundation, the finish impression was looked suitable shiny. According to its flexible and continuous networks, the powder gel type foundation spread evenly and showed a suitable shiny-finish. 4. Application of Powder Gel Type Foundation to Mature Women This nowel powder gel formula was applicable widely as a basic powder make-up base. For example we applied this powder gel type foundation for the mature women. The mature women have a distinctive skin by analytical researches of surface configuration and optical properties. Their skin surfaces become hard to unevenly-texture and lack fine-roughness. In addition to these properties, their skins lack elasticity to saggy and the coarse-roughness like wrinkles increase remarkably. Because of the surface properties of the mature women's skin, make-up cosmetics did not hold well. When we applied Ms powder gel type foundation for the mature women, the novel characteristics ofpowder gel were acknowledged in-house used test on the points of smoothness, adhesion, moistness, and a soft use feeling without a dry feeling. Example of the finish impression applied oipowder gel to the mature woman was shown in Figure 5. In particular the result of finish was obtained the impression assumed to be living alive with a sticking feeling to the skin. References l.a)Kubo K.,Jmibo G.,et.al., Funtai(Ver.2), Maruzen, pp.565(1979). b)Funtai Kougaku-kai, Funtai Kougaku Binran, Nikkan Kougyo Shinbunsha, pp.596(1986). 2.a)Funtai Kougakukai, Funtai Kougaku Binran, Nikkan Kougyo Shinbunsha, pp.364(1986). b)Kubo K.,etal., Funtai(Ver.l), Maruzen, pp.501(1962). 3. Asaki M,Morimoto M,et.al., J.Soc.Powder Technol.,Japanai,366(1998). 4.a)Satoh M.,Iwasaki T.,et.al., J.Soc.Powder Technol. Japanai,783,789 (1994). b)Satoh M.,Iwasaki T.,Miyanami K., J.Soc.Powder Technol.,Japana2,510(1996). 5.a)Rump H., Chem.Eng.Tech.aQ,44(1958). b)Rump H., J.SocPowder Technol.,JapanA3(1972). 6.a)Fisher R.A., J.Agric.Sci.a6,492(1926). b)Nihon Funtai Kougyo Gijutsu Kyokai, Zouiyu Handbook,Ohm-sha, pp.l7(1991). 7. Kanazawa T.,Chikazawa M.,Funtai To Kougyoa286(6),pp59( 1986). 8. Minami K.,Hotta H., Shoumei-gakkai Kouen Yokoushu,25,147( 1992).
1021
Development of new high oil contained powder (powder gel) and application to powder make-up Hajime Hotta, Yuko Yago, Ryuta Tsuchiya, Mitsuhiro Sasaki, Hiroki Sugasawa, Koji Minami, Takahide Minami and Toshiyuki Suzuki Kao Corporation, Tokyo Research Lab., 2-1-3, Bunka, Sumida, 131-8501 Japan The application of the funicular state that consisted of the continuous phases of powder and oil with dispersed air was succeeded by the control of oil bridging force between spherical porous powder. We named this state powder gel. This product-technology was developed by formulation study of widely available ingredients without special materials and achieved both characters of a liquid and a powder in one foundation. Make-up cosmetics consisted of powder gel were quite different from conventional powdery, oil-gel and liquid foundations. These looked like pressed powder but applied like cream make-up without oily feeling. This novel powder gel formula was applicable widely as a basic powder make-up base. IJntroduction There are many types of foundations such as pressed powder, oil gel, and liquid. Each type has individual characters based on its composition with oil volume [1]. Powdery foundations consist of the pendular state and these are silky to the touch, but lack adhesion and dry the skin with a powdery feeling. Oil gel foundations consist of the slurry state and these give a moist feeling and adhere smoothly, but are oily with a greasiness feeling. Liquid foundations are emulsified by the slurry state. These give a moist feeling, but can not be spread evenly and give too much shiny-finish to require additional face powder. We expected to develop the foundation that adhered with both a silky and a moist feeling. The funicular and the capillary states contain large volume of oil without showing fluidity. But these are not applied to make-up base. In the capillary state, particles are wetted by oil completely without air phase, so a powdery feeling disappears. Therefore in order to achieve both characters of a liquid and a powder in one foundation, it was necessary to investigate in detail about the funicular state. The funicular state consists of continuous networks of powder and oil [1]. Generally flexible network formula are called gel. So we called this continuous networks of powder and oil powder gel, 2. Mixing Properties of Powder in Oil and Analysis of Void Fraction The mixing properties of powder in oil were investigated in mixing resistance with additive volume of oil to powder, using the measuring instrument of oil absorption amount to powder (Frontex, S410D) [2]. Generally ordinary powder in the funicular state aggregated tightly and mixing resistance changed remarkably depend on a few change of oil content. Therefore it was difficult to apply the funicular state to powder make-up base with stability. During
1022 detailed investigation in physical properties of Absorption amount Diameter several powders (Table Shape ofoil(ml/100g) (urn) 1), we found out that Mica 106 7 Flat plate spherical porous powder that can absorb large Mica 84 29 Flat plate amount of oil only Titanium dioxide 28 0.2 Fine particles satisfy required Spherical Nylon beads 62 6 properties. Using the 39 Silica 9 Spherical spherical porous powder, we became to be able to Silica Spherical 282 12 apply the funicular state to powder make-up base with stability, because the change of mixing resistance was small and powder did not aggregate tightly in the funicular state. TTie void fraction of a powder bed was determined by the mercury porosimeter (Shimadzu, Autopore 9220) [3]. The void fraction of pores in particles was distinguished by the change of pore volume at some pre-pressed conditions. Fig.l showed that the void fraction decreased with oil volume increasing. In spherical nonporous silica without pores in particle, oil got into the inter-space between individual particles. And the void fraction decreased suddenly by a few changes of oil volume. As a result, using spherical nonporous silica, the funicular state held only a few air phase and physical properties in the funicular state were not stable. On the other hand in spherical porous silica, the void fraction decreased by absorbing oil to pores. With the holding oil on pores, the funicular state held large air phase in powder and oil networks using spherical porous silica. So air phase decreased moderately by the increase of oil volume with the stability of properties.
Table 1 Characteristics of several powder using in this experiment
3. Part of Oil in a Powder Bed and Characteristics of Powder Gel
0 1 2 Additive volume of oil to powder (ml/g) Figure 1 Void fraction of a powder bed ; (a) Spherical porous silica (b) Ordinary nonporous silica
The part of oil in a powder bed was investigated with the intrusion method using a conical rotor [4,5]. In this case, the shearing force at the contact point between two particles was estimated by the shearing stress measured with this intrusion method [5]. In spherical nonporous silica, the shearing force increased rapidly by the increase of oil content. But in spherical porous silica, the shearing force was stable and small in wide oil content (Fig.2). The shearing force at the contact point between two particles would be explained as the adhesive force of the bridging oil between particles [6]. Next we considered the adhesive
1023
:JUU
2P S
^
::
«2oo
o
^
T1 ^t« 100
O Oil gel
o gel Powder
O Pressed powder
•§
1 .3^ 30 60 Oil content (wt%) Figure 2 Changes in the shearing force with the ratio of oil to powder (a) Spherical porous silica (b) Ordinary nonporous silica
1^ 0 ) 10 20 30 (1 / Coefficient of dynamic friction • silky feeling
Figure 3 Characteristics of foundations by the sticking force and the dynamic friction
force of the bridging oil between particles, to understand this stable and small shearing force. The spherical porous silica had many large pores, in which the diameter was 0.24^m, so its surface was rough. When the powder was applied with oil absorbing to pores on the rough surface, the oil- bridge was formed between particles using the oil absorbed to pores too. Because the previous articles reported that the adhesive force of bridging oil on the rough surfaces was smaller than that on the flat surfaces [7], we speculated that the shearing force was stable and small in wide oil content using spherical porous silica. As a result of those investigations in the funicular state, we found that the properties of powder gel depended on the adhesive force of oil between particles. And using porous powder the oil held in pores controlled the adhesive force of bridging oil on the rough surfaces. For the evaluation of the characteristics, powder gel type model foundation was prepared. When the shearing and friction properties were measured using the Peeling/Slipping/Scratching TESTER (Shinto-Kagaku, HEIDGN-UR), this model 150 Liquid / Oil gel: foundation showed a silky feeling too shiny to the touch like a pressed powder c Powder gel: ^^/'h (Fig.3). And the sticking property, suitable shiny 100 k Pressed powder: calculated by the moment of the powdery. friction force, showed a moist o feeling like an oil gel foundation. § 50 According to its flexible and continuous networks, the powder gel type foundation achieved both a silky and a moist feeling well 0 -40 -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 30 40 and adhered smoothly to a skin Angle (degree) even without make-up base creams. Figure 4 Reflection profile of foundation applied surface Consequently iht powder gel type
I
1024
before
after
foundation achieved both characters of a powder and a liquid in one foundation as we expected. The reflection properties of foundations depended on angles were measured by the gonio-photometer (Murakami-Shikisai, GCMS-3, Fig.4) [8]. Liquid foundations gave too much shiny and an oily finish and these showed strong specular reflection. Figure 5 Example of finish impression applied P^^^^n^ foundations showed only diffused ofpowder gel to mature woman reflection at ahnost all angles. Because of the intense reflection on wide angles with the powder gel type foundation, the finish impression was looked suitable shiny. According to its flexible and continuous networks, the powder gel type foundation spread evenly and showed a suitable shiny-finish. 4. Application of Powder Gel Type Foundation to Mature Women This nowel powder gel formula was applicable widely as a basic powder make-up base. For example we applied this powder gel type foundation for the mature women. The mature women have a distinctive skin by analytical researches of surface configuration and optical properties. Their skin surfaces become hard to unevenly-texture and lack fine-roughness. In addition to these properties, their skins lack elasticity to saggy and the coarse-roughness like wrinkles increase remarkably. Because of the surface properties of the mature women's skin, make-up cosmetics did not hold well. When we applied Ms powder gel type foundation for the mature women, the novel characteristics ofpowder gel were acknowledged in-house used test on the points of smoothness, adhesion, moistness, and a soft use feeling without a dry feeling. Example of the finish impression applied oipowder gel to the mature woman was shown in Figure 5. In particular the result of finish was obtained the impression assumed to be living alive with a sticking feeling to the skin. References l.a)Kubo K.,Jmibo G.,et.al., Funtai(Ver.2), Maruzen, pp.565(1979). b)Funtai Kougaku-kai, Funtai Kougaku Binran, Nikkan Kougyo Shinbunsha, pp.596(1986). 2.a)Funtai Kougakukai, Funtai Kougaku Binran, Nikkan Kougyo Shinbunsha, pp.364(1986). b)Kubo K.,etal., Funtai(Ver.l), Maruzen, pp.501(1962). 3. Asaki M,Morimoto M,et.al., J.Soc.Powder Technol.,Japanai,366(1998). 4.a)Satoh M.,Iwasaki T.,et.al., J.Soc.Powder Technol. Japanai,783,789 (1994). b)Satoh M.,Iwasaki T.,Miyanami K., J.Soc.Powder Technol.,Japana2,510(1996). 5.a)Rump H., Chem.Eng.Tech.aQ,44(1958). b)Rump H., J.SocPowder Technol.,JapanA3(1972). 6.a)Fisher R.A., J.Agric.Sci.a6,492(1926). b)Nihon Funtai Kougyo Gijutsu Kyokai, Zouiyu Handbook,Ohm-sha, pp.l7(1991). 7. Kanazawa T.,Chikazawa M.,Funtai To Kougyoa286(6),pp59( 1986). 8. Minami K.,Hotta H., Shoumei-gakkai Kouen Yokoushu,25,147( 1992).