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Enzymatic pre-treatment enhances beneficial effects of glycolic acid peel in Japanese skin
P205
P207
Enhanced cell viability and decreased expression of a senescence marker exhibited in SIRT1-induced human skin cells Claude dal Farra, PhD, Vincience, Sophia Antipolis, France; Eric Bauza, MS, Vincience, Sophia Antipolis, France; Thibaut Marchand, Vincience, Sophia Antipolis, France; Nouha Domloge, MD, Vincience, Sophia Antipolis, France
Enzymatic pre-treatment enhances beneficial effects of glycolic acid peel in Japanese skin Christian Oresajo, PhD, L’Oreal Recherche, Clark, NJ, United States; Margarita Yatskayer, MS, L’Oreal Recherche, Clark, NJ, United States; Marc Cornell, L’Oreal Recherche, Clark, NJ, United States; Isabelle Hansenne, PhD, L’Oreal Recherche, Clark, NJ, United States Chronic sun exposure leads to skin damage, which reflects in the appearance and accentuation of wrinkles, dyschromia, skin sallowness, and sagging skin. Repeated applications of a moderate concentration of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) in the form of ‘‘minipeels’’ have been shown to improve the appearance of photo-damaged skin. The beneficial effects of AHA minipeels include improved skin smoothness, less wrinkling, and lightening of darkened pigmented areas. While using higher concentrations (50% or greater) of AHA in facial peels improves the effectiveness of the treatment, it increases the likelihood of producing more side effects especially in sensitive skin individuals. This study was undertaken to evaluate the effectiveness and tolerability of an enzymatic pretreatment prior to applying a 30% glycolic acid peel in Japanese skin. Twenty-five Japanese women who were 30 years of age or older (mean age 40.77), with Fitzpatrick skin types II through IV and who would benefit from a glycolic acid facial peel were recruited for this 2-center (Tokyo, Japan; Dallas, TX, USA) study. At the baseline visit, subjects were graded on each side of the face for mottled pigmentation, tactile roughness, level of radiance, skin laxity, pore size, and overall facial appearance using an 11-point visual scale. Objective and subjective irritation symptoms were assessed using a 4-point scale. Using a predetermined randomization scheme, pretreatment was applied to one side of the subjects’ face, followed by a 30% glycolic acid peel over the entire face. Subjects’ faces were graded on each side by the clinician 30 to 60 minutes following the glycolic acid peel application. Subjects were dispensed a cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen (SPF 20) to substitute for their regular skin care products until the study completion. Subjects returned at day 3 and 1 week posttreatment for repeat grading. Subjects completed self-assessment questionnaires at each post-treatment visit. Results obtained from clinical evaluations and self-assessment questionnaires show that the enzymatic pre-treatment significantly reduces erythema and enhances beneficial effects of glycolic acid peel, ie, smoothness, radiance, and overall appearance in Japanese skin.
The expression of SIRT1, the human homologue to yeast Sir2, has been associated with a number of cellular processes, including lifespan extension. In our previous studies, we observed that SIRT1 is expressed in human skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts, and is physiologically induced to prevent stress and aging. In this study, we investigated cell viability and senescence in order to evaluate the correlation between SIRT1 expression, induced specifically in human skin cells by an active ingredient, and the modulation of cell aging. Immunostaining and immunoblotting studies were performed in order to evaluate induced-SIRT1 expression level in in vitro aged human keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Cell viability studies were performed using the MTT method, and cell senescence studies were performed using beta-galactosidase, a specific biomarker that is absent from quiescent and differentiated cells. The results revealed a net increase in nuclear protein SIRT1 expression in in vitro-aged cells (cells up to P16 for fibroblasts and P6 for keratinocytes) treated with the SIRT1-inducing active ingredient for 24 hours. This increase reached 73% in immunoblotting studies. In parallel, MTT studies revealed an increase in cell viability in the SIRT1-induced cells, compared to control cells where SIRT1 was not induced. Moreover, the results revealed a considerably decreased expression of the senescent biomarker beta-galactosidase in SIRT1induced cells. The aged SIRT1-induced cells exhibited a decrease in number of stained cells and in staining intensity, compared to the control. These results demonstrate a correlation between SIRT1 induction in aged human skin cells and a decrease in the expression of a senescence marker as well as an extension of the lifespan of these cells. This method can thus be of great use in anti-aging skin research and in the development of skin care products. 100% is sponsored by Vincience Research Center. All the researchers are employees of this company.
100% is sponsored by L’Oreal.
P208
P206 Skin color distribution plays a role in the perception of age, attractiveness and health in female faces Paul Matts, PhD, Procter & Gamble, Egham, United Kingdom; Bernhard Fink, PhD, Institute for Zoology & Anthropology, University of Goettingen, Goettingen, Germany; Karl Grammer, PhD, Ludwig-Boltzmann-Institute for Urban Ethology, University of Vienna, Vienna, Austria; Maria Burquest, Procter & Gamble, Cincinnati, OH, United States Evolutionary psychologists have proposed that preferences for facial characteristics, such as symmetry, averageness, and sexual dimorphism, may reflect adaptations for mating decisions because they probably provide visual cues of health and reproductive ability. Two recent studies found a positive association between homogeneity of skin features and perceived attractiveness. Importantly, however, both studies did not differentiate between visual contrast caused by skin surface topography and skin color distribution. Here we show that facial skin color distribution significantly influences the perception of age, health, and attractiveness of female faces, independent of facial form and skin surface topography. Low contrast and brightness are key optical parameters of apparently attractive, healthy skin, and color is at least as important as topography in affecting these endpoints. Contrast can easily be created by color if a homogeneous field is disrupted by colored features of either/both sufficient diameter and ratio of adjacent luminance. This is, indeed, precisely the effect observed in ageing (and, particularly, photodamaged) human skin, in features composed of both melanin and haemoglobin. Skin color distribution, therefore, is potentially an important visual cue of human health and beauty and, yet, remains remarkably unstudied. A set of 169 three-dimensional (3D) shape-standardized stimulus faces, varying only in terms of skin color distribution caused by a variation in biological age and cumulative photodamage, was rated by a panel of na€ive judges for a variety of perceptual endpoints relating to age, health and attractiveness. Shape and topography-standardized stimulus faces with the homogeneous skin color distribution of young people were perceived as younger and received significantly higher ratings for attractiveness and health than analogous stimuli with the relatively inhomogeneous skin color distribution of more elderly people. Thus, skin color distribution, independent of facial form and skin surface topography, seems to have a significant influence on the perception of female facial age and judgments of attractiveness and health, as it may signal aspects of underlying physiological condition. This work was supported in full by Procter & Gamble.
AB26
J AM ACAD DERMATOL
Use of oral isotretinoin in photoaging therapy ´ rdia Ce´lia Luiza Petersen Vitello Kalil, MD, Irmandade da Santa Casa de Miserico de Porto Alegre, Porto Alegre, Brazil; Fernanda Zatti Fachinello, MD, Irmandade da Santa Casa de Miserico´rdia de Porto Alegre, Porto Alegre, Brazil; Fla´via Maria ´ rdia de Porto Alegre, Porto Lamb, MD, Irmandade da Santa Casa de Miserico Alegre, Brazil; Luciane Nardi Comunello, MD, Irmandade da Santa Casa de ´ rdia de Porto Alegre, Porto Alegre, Brazil Miserico Background: Many drugs are being used for prevention and treatment of photoageing, especially topical retinoids. The use of systemic retinoids, more specifically, isotretinoin, for this purpose has not been properly addressed yet; only one study assessing the use of oral isotretinoin as part of the treatment of cutaneous ageing, but conventional topical and surgical therapies were associated. The dosage may be lesser than the used in acne therapy and even though it is effective for photoageing therapy. Our study was designed to assess the systemic use of isotretinoin, as a sole drug, for the therapy of cutaneous photoageing. Objectives: Demonstrating that isotretinoin is converted into retinoid, improving the appearance of the photoaged skin. Methods: Fifty female outpatients, aged 40 to 60 years old, phototype I, II, or III were selected to receive 20 mg of isotretinoin by oral route, 3 times a week, for a 3-month period. Patients were submitted to clinical and laboratory evaluation before the start of study medication and every month after the start of the therapy. Two biopsies were performed at the upper right member. One before the start of the treatment and the second approximately one week after the end of therapy. Photographic control of the face has been performed before, during and after the treatment. Control laboratory tests were requested. Patients selected for the study were informed both orally and written, through an informed consent. Patients were requested to use only topical photoprotecting agents during the treatment. Improvement in photoageing clinical parameters were evaluated through pictures taken and also through an evaluation form where patient’s opinion related to optimal, regular or no improvement were also assessed. Anatomopathologic parameters were obtained by comparing collagen degeneration and skin trophism. Results: Out of 50 selected patients, 45 completed the whole isotretinoin course, 3 patients were excluded due to adverse events. Of the 45 patients who completed the treatment, 15 did not return to perform the second biopsy. 30 patients fully complied to study requirements and were adequately analyzed. From the anatomopathological viewpoint, we found an improvement of photoageing in 20 patients. The main reported adverse event was skin dryness and desquamation. Conclusion: Isotretinoin improves photoageing, with few adverse events caused by the low dose and the short duration of treatment. Commercial support: None identified.
FEBRUARY 2007
P207
Enhanced cell viability and decreased expression of a senescence marker exhibited in SIRT1-induced human skin cells Claude dal Farra, PhD, Vincience, Sophia Antipolis, France; Eric Bauza, MS, Vincience, Sophia Antipolis, France; Thibaut Marchand, Vincience, Sophia Antipolis, France; Nouha Domloge, MD, Vincience, Sophia Antipolis, France
Enzymatic pre-treatment enhances beneficial effects of glycolic acid peel in Japanese skin Christian Oresajo, PhD, L’Oreal Recherche, Clark, NJ, United States; Margarita Yatskayer, MS, L’Oreal Recherche, Clark, NJ, United States; Marc Cornell, L’Oreal Recherche, Clark, NJ, United States; Isabelle Hansenne, PhD, L’Oreal Recherche, Clark, NJ, United States Chronic sun exposure leads to skin damage, which reflects in the appearance and accentuation of wrinkles, dyschromia, skin sallowness, and sagging skin. Repeated applications of a moderate concentration of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) in the form of ‘‘minipeels’’ have been shown to improve the appearance of photo-damaged skin. The beneficial effects of AHA minipeels include improved skin smoothness, less wrinkling, and lightening of darkened pigmented areas. While using higher concentrations (50% or greater) of AHA in facial peels improves the effectiveness of the treatment, it increases the likelihood of producing more side effects especially in sensitive skin individuals. This study was undertaken to evaluate the effectiveness and tolerability of an enzymatic pretreatment prior to applying a 30% glycolic acid peel in Japanese skin. Twenty-five Japanese women who were 30 years of age or older (mean age 40.77), with Fitzpatrick skin types II through IV and who would benefit from a glycolic acid facial peel were recruited for this 2-center (Tokyo, Japan; Dallas, TX, USA) study. At the baseline visit, subjects were graded on each side of the face for mottled pigmentation, tactile roughness, level of radiance, skin laxity, pore size, and overall facial appearance using an 11-point visual scale. Objective and subjective irritation symptoms were assessed using a 4-point scale. Using a predetermined randomization scheme, pretreatment was applied to one side of the subjects’ face, followed by a 30% glycolic acid peel over the entire face. Subjects’ faces were graded on each side by the clinician 30 to 60 minutes following the glycolic acid peel application. Subjects were dispensed a cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen (SPF 20) to substitute for their regular skin care products until the study completion. Subjects returned at day 3 and 1 week posttreatment for repeat grading. Subjects completed self-assessment questionnaires at each post-treatment visit. Results obtained from clinical evaluations and self-assessment questionnaires show that the enzymatic pre-treatment significantly reduces erythema and enhances beneficial effects of glycolic acid peel, ie, smoothness, radiance, and overall appearance in Japanese skin.
The expression of SIRT1, the human homologue to yeast Sir2, has been associated with a number of cellular processes, including lifespan extension. In our previous studies, we observed that SIRT1 is expressed in human skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts, and is physiologically induced to prevent stress and aging. In this study, we investigated cell viability and senescence in order to evaluate the correlation between SIRT1 expression, induced specifically in human skin cells by an active ingredient, and the modulation of cell aging. Immunostaining and immunoblotting studies were performed in order to evaluate induced-SIRT1 expression level in in vitro aged human keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Cell viability studies were performed using the MTT method, and cell senescence studies were performed using beta-galactosidase, a specific biomarker that is absent from quiescent and differentiated cells. The results revealed a net increase in nuclear protein SIRT1 expression in in vitro-aged cells (cells up to P16 for fibroblasts and P6 for keratinocytes) treated with the SIRT1-inducing active ingredient for 24 hours. This increase reached 73% in immunoblotting studies. In parallel, MTT studies revealed an increase in cell viability in the SIRT1-induced cells, compared to control cells where SIRT1 was not induced. Moreover, the results revealed a considerably decreased expression of the senescent biomarker beta-galactosidase in SIRT1induced cells. The aged SIRT1-induced cells exhibited a decrease in number of stained cells and in staining intensity, compared to the control. These results demonstrate a correlation between SIRT1 induction in aged human skin cells and a decrease in the expression of a senescence marker as well as an extension of the lifespan of these cells. This method can thus be of great use in anti-aging skin research and in the development of skin care products. 100% is sponsored by Vincience Research Center. All the researchers are employees of this company.
100% is sponsored by L’Oreal.
P208
P206 Skin color distribution plays a role in the perception of age, attractiveness and health in female faces Paul Matts, PhD, Procter & Gamble, Egham, United Kingdom; Bernhard Fink, PhD, Institute for Zoology & Anthropology, University of Goettingen, Goettingen, Germany; Karl Grammer, PhD, Ludwig-Boltzmann-Institute for Urban Ethology, University of Vienna, Vienna, Austria; Maria Burquest, Procter & Gamble, Cincinnati, OH, United States Evolutionary psychologists have proposed that preferences for facial characteristics, such as symmetry, averageness, and sexual dimorphism, may reflect adaptations for mating decisions because they probably provide visual cues of health and reproductive ability. Two recent studies found a positive association between homogeneity of skin features and perceived attractiveness. Importantly, however, both studies did not differentiate between visual contrast caused by skin surface topography and skin color distribution. Here we show that facial skin color distribution significantly influences the perception of age, health, and attractiveness of female faces, independent of facial form and skin surface topography. Low contrast and brightness are key optical parameters of apparently attractive, healthy skin, and color is at least as important as topography in affecting these endpoints. Contrast can easily be created by color if a homogeneous field is disrupted by colored features of either/both sufficient diameter and ratio of adjacent luminance. This is, indeed, precisely the effect observed in ageing (and, particularly, photodamaged) human skin, in features composed of both melanin and haemoglobin. Skin color distribution, therefore, is potentially an important visual cue of human health and beauty and, yet, remains remarkably unstudied. A set of 169 three-dimensional (3D) shape-standardized stimulus faces, varying only in terms of skin color distribution caused by a variation in biological age and cumulative photodamage, was rated by a panel of na€ive judges for a variety of perceptual endpoints relating to age, health and attractiveness. Shape and topography-standardized stimulus faces with the homogeneous skin color distribution of young people were perceived as younger and received significantly higher ratings for attractiveness and health than analogous stimuli with the relatively inhomogeneous skin color distribution of more elderly people. Thus, skin color distribution, independent of facial form and skin surface topography, seems to have a significant influence on the perception of female facial age and judgments of attractiveness and health, as it may signal aspects of underlying physiological condition. This work was supported in full by Procter & Gamble.
AB26
J AM ACAD DERMATOL
Use of oral isotretinoin in photoaging therapy ´ rdia Ce´lia Luiza Petersen Vitello Kalil, MD, Irmandade da Santa Casa de Miserico de Porto Alegre, Porto Alegre, Brazil; Fernanda Zatti Fachinello, MD, Irmandade da Santa Casa de Miserico´rdia de Porto Alegre, Porto Alegre, Brazil; Fla´via Maria ´ rdia de Porto Alegre, Porto Lamb, MD, Irmandade da Santa Casa de Miserico Alegre, Brazil; Luciane Nardi Comunello, MD, Irmandade da Santa Casa de ´ rdia de Porto Alegre, Porto Alegre, Brazil Miserico Background: Many drugs are being used for prevention and treatment of photoageing, especially topical retinoids. The use of systemic retinoids, more specifically, isotretinoin, for this purpose has not been properly addressed yet; only one study assessing the use of oral isotretinoin as part of the treatment of cutaneous ageing, but conventional topical and surgical therapies were associated. The dosage may be lesser than the used in acne therapy and even though it is effective for photoageing therapy. Our study was designed to assess the systemic use of isotretinoin, as a sole drug, for the therapy of cutaneous photoageing. Objectives: Demonstrating that isotretinoin is converted into retinoid, improving the appearance of the photoaged skin. Methods: Fifty female outpatients, aged 40 to 60 years old, phototype I, II, or III were selected to receive 20 mg of isotretinoin by oral route, 3 times a week, for a 3-month period. Patients were submitted to clinical and laboratory evaluation before the start of study medication and every month after the start of the therapy. Two biopsies were performed at the upper right member. One before the start of the treatment and the second approximately one week after the end of therapy. Photographic control of the face has been performed before, during and after the treatment. Control laboratory tests were requested. Patients selected for the study were informed both orally and written, through an informed consent. Patients were requested to use only topical photoprotecting agents during the treatment. Improvement in photoageing clinical parameters were evaluated through pictures taken and also through an evaluation form where patient’s opinion related to optimal, regular or no improvement were also assessed. Anatomopathologic parameters were obtained by comparing collagen degeneration and skin trophism. Results: Out of 50 selected patients, 45 completed the whole isotretinoin course, 3 patients were excluded due to adverse events. Of the 45 patients who completed the treatment, 15 did not return to perform the second biopsy. 30 patients fully complied to study requirements and were adequately analyzed. From the anatomopathological viewpoint, we found an improvement of photoageing in 20 patients. The main reported adverse event was skin dryness and desquamation. Conclusion: Isotretinoin improves photoageing, with few adverse events caused by the low dose and the short duration of treatment. Commercial support: None identified.
FEBRUARY 2007