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Introduction to cutting room operations in textile good manufacture
Introduction to cutting room operations in textile good manufacture
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1.1 Introduction A cutting room is a separate area in a production enterprise where components for textile goods are cut out. Before cutting takes place, textile materials for cutting are stored, counted, and inspected; cutting process is planned; markers to cut components are created; and fabric spreads are laid out for cutting. Some garment components may then be fused with interlinings. All components are then inspected, sorted, and bundled for further processing. Many of the activities in the cutting room were traditionally performed manually. The quality of the process was dependent on the skills and experience of the cutting room workers. Now, the most part of work processes, such as cutting process planning, marker making, spreading, and cutting, is automated and can be performed much faster and with more consistent quality than in manual processing.
1.2 Storage, registration and inspection of materials Textile materials are usually stored in a separate area before they are required in the cutting room. Before use, they have to be registered and inspected to plan the work process and ensure the necessary number of high-quality cut components. The data obtained during inspection are footage (length), width, the number of different shades of any one colour, potential shrinkage after fusing, and others. Storage, registration, and inspection of delivered textile materials are described in Chapter 2.
1.3 Lay planning and marker-making processes When all the necessary data about the textile materials delivered to the cutting room have been obtained, lay planning and marker-making processes may be performed. The process of lay planning is important because it determines further work processes in a cutting room. Several factors that influence productivity and work efficiency in the cutting room are taken into account in performing the lay planning process. To ensure efficient fabric utilization and organize an efficient work process in a cutting room, pattern pieces for more than one article are typically combined in every marker, the number of fabric plies (or layers) in every spread is determined, and the number of spreads needed for the markers required is determined. Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102122-4.00001-9 Copyright © 2018 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
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Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials
In accordance with the customer's specification, markers for all ordered styles, sizes, quantities, and fabric colours required are created. Special nesting software allows the creation of a marker on a computer screen and makes the work process quicker and easier by allowing the user to reconfigure the arrangement of pattern pieces to get the best arrangement of the market. Nowadays, computerized management systems organize, schedule, and monitor work process in a cutting room. Cut planning software creates the best solutions to cut material for manufacturing orders. The most efficient marker combinations for each production order are calculated automatically, taking into account the availability of the specific raw materials and the technical parameters of the cutting room. Lay planning and marker-making processes are described in Chapter 3.
1.4 The fabric spreading process Spreading is a process during which fabric is cut in pieces of certain length and the pieces are placed one above other in many plies. The length is determined by the shape, size, and number of the components to be cut from it. The number of plies in a spread is dependent on the number of articles required and the technical limits of the fabric spreading and cutting processes. Spreading process may be either manual or automated. General fabric spreading principles are described in Chapter 4.
1.4.1 Manual spreading process During manual spreading, two workers move the fabric plies over the spreading table, ensuring the correct placement of each ply in a spread. As they do so, they look for faults in the fabric and make the decision to leave or cut them out. They also count the plies required and cut the fabric at the end of the spread. If the fabric has an intricate pattern, they ensure the pattern matches in all the fabric plies in the spread. Spreading speed and quality are dependent on the properties of a fabric and the skills and experience of the workers. There is no need for special equipment in manual spreading. All kinds of fabric may be laid, but the process is both skilled and time- consuming. Manual spreading is used in small enterprises or where, in the case of larger enterprises, there is a need to spread fabrics with different kinds of intricate patterns. Manual spreading is described in Chapter 5 and also in Chapters 15, 17, and 18.
1.4.2 Automated spreading process Automated spreading is performed using a special spreading machine that unrolls a roll of fabric, lays the fabric ply on the spreading table, cuts and counts the plies, and ensures the correct placement of each ply on the top of another to complete a spread. Different kinds of spreading machines are used. Their design and application depend on a spread fabric qualities and the parameters of the fabric rolls processed. The fabric feeding system is the most important part of a spreading machine. It ensures qualitative laying of the fabric ply on the spreading table. Spreading can be performed in semiautomated or fully automated way.
Introduction to cutting room operations in textile good manufacture3
In a semiautomated spreading process, the operator smoothes the surface of the lay, recognizes faults in the spread fabric, and makes decisions to leave faults in the spread or cut them out. Fully automated spreading is used for high-quality, easy spread materials. The operator sets all the necessary parameters (the length of the lay, number of fabric plies, spreading speed, fabric tension, etc.) and lets the machine complete each spread. The spreading speed is dependent on the properties of a fabric. It is much faster (approx 1.5–3 times) than manual spreading. Automated spreading is used in medium and large production enterprises. The automated spreading process is described in Chapter 6.
1.5 The fabric cutting process During cutting, separate components of textile goods are cut out from the fabric spread in accordance with their shape and number determined by the marker. The cutting may be performed manually or automated way.
1.5.1 The manual cutting process During manual cutting, components are cut in several cutting steps. The spread is first divided into smaller parts. If there are small and complex components, components which later will have to be fused with interlinings or components with intricate fabric patterns, these are firstly cut roughly around the edges. Later, after additional treatment, fine cutting is undertaken to ensure an accurate final shape. Large and simple shape components may be cut without initial rough cutting. Different cutting machines are used to perform manual cutting. Movable straightand round-knife cutting machines are used to divide a spread in smaller parts and to cut large and simple shape components. A static band-knife machine is used to cut small and complicated components. The displacement of fabric plies in the spread is the main problem in manual cutting. As a result, the precision of cut components can be much lower than when using automated cutting. The manual cutting process is described in Chapter 7 and also in Chapters 15, 17, and 18.
1.5.2 The automated cutting process Automated cutting is performed using a special automated cutting system. The cutting device moves and cuts a single-fabric ply or previously prepared fabric spread in accordance with a placement of pattern pieces in the marker. Different kinds of knives, laser, water jet, or ultrasound can be used as a cutting tool for processing textiles. A cutting operator sets up cutting parameters and monitors cutting process. Displacement of fabric plies in a spread is eliminated as the spread is compressed and held in position by a special vacuum system. A laser beam as a cutting tool is used not only for cutting but also for engraving and marking of textiles. Specialized software and tools are used to process fabrics with intricate patterns and digitally printed fabrics in semiautomated or fully automated way. Most often, they are cut by automated single-ply cutters.
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Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials
The precision of cut components and productivity compared with manual cutting is very high. Automated cutting systems are used in large production enterprises where the volume of production justifies the very high productivity of the automated cutting process, cost of the equipment, and its maintenance. The automated cutting process and knife cutting systems are described in Chapter 9. Automated laser cutting is described in Chapter 10. Automated single-ply processing of styles from intricate pattern fabrics is described in Chapter 16. Placement of equipment in automated cutting process, automated multi-ply processing of styles from intricate pattern fabrics, and automated processing of narrow lace and fabrics with pile are described in Chapters 11, 15, 17, and 18.
1.6 The fusing of cut components Fusing is a process where cut components are fused with interlinings coated with thermoplastic resin. Fusing of garment components adds strength and stability to a garment and improves its shape. The fusing process is undertaken using special fusing presses. Fusing presses can be divided in two groups: discontinuous work process (flat) fusing presses and continuous work process fusing presses. Discontinuous work process fusing presses perform sequential fusing of components. They are less productive and are more suitable for small and medium production units. Continuous work process fusing presses transport components on a conveyer belt, ensuring higher productivity and lower power consumption. When equipped with long heating chambers and sensitive pressure systems, they can ensure fusing process without fabric shrinkage or any other damaging. The fusing of cut textile components is described in Chapter 12.
1.7 Final stages in cutting operations Final operations end the cutting process and prepare cut components for further processing. These operations include quality control of cut components, recutting of faulty components, numbering, sorting, and bundling of cut components. All cut components are inspected visually to check the following quality parameters: the fabric quality, the conformity of the size and shape of cut components to their pattern pieces, and the quality of notches and drill marks. Faulty components are recut. During numbering, every component gets its sequential number. The sorting and bundling of cut components is the last work operation performed in a cutting room. Final work operations are described in Chapter 13.
Further reading Vilumsone-Nemes, I., 2012. Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials, first ed. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge. ISBN 9780857091345.
Introduction to cutting room operations in textile good manufacture5
Vilumsone-Nemes, I., 2015. Fabric spreading and cutting. In: Nayak, R., Padhye, R. (Eds.), Garment Manufacturing Technology. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge. ISBN 9781782422327. Vilumsone-Nemes, I., 2017. Automation in spreading and cutting. In: Nayak, R., Padhye, R. (Eds.), Automation in Garment Manufacturing. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge. ISBN 9780081012116. Tyler, D.J., 2008. Carr and Latham's Technology of Clothing Manufacture, fourth ed. Blackwell, Oxford. ISBN 1405161981.
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1.1 Introduction A cutting room is a separate area in a production enterprise where components for textile goods are cut out. Before cutting takes place, textile materials for cutting are stored, counted, and inspected; cutting process is planned; markers to cut components are created; and fabric spreads are laid out for cutting. Some garment components may then be fused with interlinings. All components are then inspected, sorted, and bundled for further processing. Many of the activities in the cutting room were traditionally performed manually. The quality of the process was dependent on the skills and experience of the cutting room workers. Now, the most part of work processes, such as cutting process planning, marker making, spreading, and cutting, is automated and can be performed much faster and with more consistent quality than in manual processing.
1.2 Storage, registration and inspection of materials Textile materials are usually stored in a separate area before they are required in the cutting room. Before use, they have to be registered and inspected to plan the work process and ensure the necessary number of high-quality cut components. The data obtained during inspection are footage (length), width, the number of different shades of any one colour, potential shrinkage after fusing, and others. Storage, registration, and inspection of delivered textile materials are described in Chapter 2.
1.3 Lay planning and marker-making processes When all the necessary data about the textile materials delivered to the cutting room have been obtained, lay planning and marker-making processes may be performed. The process of lay planning is important because it determines further work processes in a cutting room. Several factors that influence productivity and work efficiency in the cutting room are taken into account in performing the lay planning process. To ensure efficient fabric utilization and organize an efficient work process in a cutting room, pattern pieces for more than one article are typically combined in every marker, the number of fabric plies (or layers) in every spread is determined, and the number of spreads needed for the markers required is determined. Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102122-4.00001-9 Copyright © 2018 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
2
Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials
In accordance with the customer's specification, markers for all ordered styles, sizes, quantities, and fabric colours required are created. Special nesting software allows the creation of a marker on a computer screen and makes the work process quicker and easier by allowing the user to reconfigure the arrangement of pattern pieces to get the best arrangement of the market. Nowadays, computerized management systems organize, schedule, and monitor work process in a cutting room. Cut planning software creates the best solutions to cut material for manufacturing orders. The most efficient marker combinations for each production order are calculated automatically, taking into account the availability of the specific raw materials and the technical parameters of the cutting room. Lay planning and marker-making processes are described in Chapter 3.
1.4 The fabric spreading process Spreading is a process during which fabric is cut in pieces of certain length and the pieces are placed one above other in many plies. The length is determined by the shape, size, and number of the components to be cut from it. The number of plies in a spread is dependent on the number of articles required and the technical limits of the fabric spreading and cutting processes. Spreading process may be either manual or automated. General fabric spreading principles are described in Chapter 4.
1.4.1 Manual spreading process During manual spreading, two workers move the fabric plies over the spreading table, ensuring the correct placement of each ply in a spread. As they do so, they look for faults in the fabric and make the decision to leave or cut them out. They also count the plies required and cut the fabric at the end of the spread. If the fabric has an intricate pattern, they ensure the pattern matches in all the fabric plies in the spread. Spreading speed and quality are dependent on the properties of a fabric and the skills and experience of the workers. There is no need for special equipment in manual spreading. All kinds of fabric may be laid, but the process is both skilled and time- consuming. Manual spreading is used in small enterprises or where, in the case of larger enterprises, there is a need to spread fabrics with different kinds of intricate patterns. Manual spreading is described in Chapter 5 and also in Chapters 15, 17, and 18.
1.4.2 Automated spreading process Automated spreading is performed using a special spreading machine that unrolls a roll of fabric, lays the fabric ply on the spreading table, cuts and counts the plies, and ensures the correct placement of each ply on the top of another to complete a spread. Different kinds of spreading machines are used. Their design and application depend on a spread fabric qualities and the parameters of the fabric rolls processed. The fabric feeding system is the most important part of a spreading machine. It ensures qualitative laying of the fabric ply on the spreading table. Spreading can be performed in semiautomated or fully automated way.
Introduction to cutting room operations in textile good manufacture3
In a semiautomated spreading process, the operator smoothes the surface of the lay, recognizes faults in the spread fabric, and makes decisions to leave faults in the spread or cut them out. Fully automated spreading is used for high-quality, easy spread materials. The operator sets all the necessary parameters (the length of the lay, number of fabric plies, spreading speed, fabric tension, etc.) and lets the machine complete each spread. The spreading speed is dependent on the properties of a fabric. It is much faster (approx 1.5–3 times) than manual spreading. Automated spreading is used in medium and large production enterprises. The automated spreading process is described in Chapter 6.
1.5 The fabric cutting process During cutting, separate components of textile goods are cut out from the fabric spread in accordance with their shape and number determined by the marker. The cutting may be performed manually or automated way.
1.5.1 The manual cutting process During manual cutting, components are cut in several cutting steps. The spread is first divided into smaller parts. If there are small and complex components, components which later will have to be fused with interlinings or components with intricate fabric patterns, these are firstly cut roughly around the edges. Later, after additional treatment, fine cutting is undertaken to ensure an accurate final shape. Large and simple shape components may be cut without initial rough cutting. Different cutting machines are used to perform manual cutting. Movable straightand round-knife cutting machines are used to divide a spread in smaller parts and to cut large and simple shape components. A static band-knife machine is used to cut small and complicated components. The displacement of fabric plies in the spread is the main problem in manual cutting. As a result, the precision of cut components can be much lower than when using automated cutting. The manual cutting process is described in Chapter 7 and also in Chapters 15, 17, and 18.
1.5.2 The automated cutting process Automated cutting is performed using a special automated cutting system. The cutting device moves and cuts a single-fabric ply or previously prepared fabric spread in accordance with a placement of pattern pieces in the marker. Different kinds of knives, laser, water jet, or ultrasound can be used as a cutting tool for processing textiles. A cutting operator sets up cutting parameters and monitors cutting process. Displacement of fabric plies in a spread is eliminated as the spread is compressed and held in position by a special vacuum system. A laser beam as a cutting tool is used not only for cutting but also for engraving and marking of textiles. Specialized software and tools are used to process fabrics with intricate patterns and digitally printed fabrics in semiautomated or fully automated way. Most often, they are cut by automated single-ply cutters.
4
Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials
The precision of cut components and productivity compared with manual cutting is very high. Automated cutting systems are used in large production enterprises where the volume of production justifies the very high productivity of the automated cutting process, cost of the equipment, and its maintenance. The automated cutting process and knife cutting systems are described in Chapter 9. Automated laser cutting is described in Chapter 10. Automated single-ply processing of styles from intricate pattern fabrics is described in Chapter 16. Placement of equipment in automated cutting process, automated multi-ply processing of styles from intricate pattern fabrics, and automated processing of narrow lace and fabrics with pile are described in Chapters 11, 15, 17, and 18.
1.6 The fusing of cut components Fusing is a process where cut components are fused with interlinings coated with thermoplastic resin. Fusing of garment components adds strength and stability to a garment and improves its shape. The fusing process is undertaken using special fusing presses. Fusing presses can be divided in two groups: discontinuous work process (flat) fusing presses and continuous work process fusing presses. Discontinuous work process fusing presses perform sequential fusing of components. They are less productive and are more suitable for small and medium production units. Continuous work process fusing presses transport components on a conveyer belt, ensuring higher productivity and lower power consumption. When equipped with long heating chambers and sensitive pressure systems, they can ensure fusing process without fabric shrinkage or any other damaging. The fusing of cut textile components is described in Chapter 12.
1.7 Final stages in cutting operations Final operations end the cutting process and prepare cut components for further processing. These operations include quality control of cut components, recutting of faulty components, numbering, sorting, and bundling of cut components. All cut components are inspected visually to check the following quality parameters: the fabric quality, the conformity of the size and shape of cut components to their pattern pieces, and the quality of notches and drill marks. Faulty components are recut. During numbering, every component gets its sequential number. The sorting and bundling of cut components is the last work operation performed in a cutting room. Final work operations are described in Chapter 13.
Further reading Vilumsone-Nemes, I., 2012. Industrial Cutting of Textile Materials, first ed. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge. ISBN 9780857091345.
Introduction to cutting room operations in textile good manufacture5
Vilumsone-Nemes, I., 2015. Fabric spreading and cutting. In: Nayak, R., Padhye, R. (Eds.), Garment Manufacturing Technology. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge. ISBN 9781782422327. Vilumsone-Nemes, I., 2017. Automation in spreading and cutting. In: Nayak, R., Padhye, R. (Eds.), Automation in Garment Manufacturing. Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge. ISBN 9780081012116. Tyler, D.J., 2008. Carr and Latham's Technology of Clothing Manufacture, fourth ed. Blackwell, Oxford. ISBN 1405161981.