- Email: [email protected]
Klappertaart: an Indonesian–Dutch influenced traditional food
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55 56 57 58 59 60 61 journal homepage: http://journalofethnicfoods.net 62 63 Original Article 64 65 * 66 67 *, 1 2 3 4 68 Chrisfella Cokrro Handoyo , Clarissa , Grace Claudia , Milka , Q17 69 5 Q1,2 Syahnazia Adinda Firdayanti 70 Q3,4 Nutrition and Food Technology Departement, Faculty of Life Science Surya University, Tangerang, Banten, Indonesia 71 72 73 74 a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t Q7 75 Article history: As one of the most ethnically diverse societies, Indonesia is well known for its cultural diversity such as 76 Received 16 October 2017 traditional practices and customs. Some of them are historically affected by colonization. Indonesia 77 Received in revised form experienced a colonial history under the Dutch rule for a long time. It is considered as a long colonial 78 5 December 2017 period that has left huge influences on various aspects of Indonesian people's lives and Indonesian 79 Accepted 6 December 2017 cuisine. As a result of colonization, many Dutch tribes set foot in many regions of Indonesia. At that time, Available online xxx 80 the Dutch traders who came to Manado, North Celebes, introduced a recipe of a dish that has later been 81 combined with Indonesian ingredients, such as coconut and spices. This study aims to analyze Keywords: 82 the influence of the Dutch culture on Indonesian dish, klappertaart. Klappertaart in Indonesian literally Culture 83 means “kue kelapa” or coconut cake that is usually served during special events. The cake is made from Dutch 84 local ingredients such as coconut, flour, butter, eggs, milk, cinnamon, and raisins. That is what makes Indonesia 85 klappertaart associated with Manado. The cake can be either baked or steamed. Nowadays, klappertaart is Klappertaart Manado 86 not only found in Manado but is also widely spread in major cities in Indonesia. © 2017 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the 87 CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). 88 89 90 91 92 Every region or tribe definitely has distinct dishes to whet people's Introduction 93 appetite. (Figs. 1e4) 94 Indonesian diversity is not fully due to original Indonesia is an archipelago country that consists of more than indigenous Q8 Q9 95 1,300 ethnic tribes showing cultural diversity such as languages, cultures. Many of the cultures have been influenced by the Western 96 food, and arts [1]. Its cultural diversity also includes local dishes world, especially Europe. Before independence, Indonesia was un97 spread in every region. Traditional dishes are a legacy of a tribe in a der the Dutch rule. In the early 20th century, many Dutch people 98 specific region [2]. It may be original Indonesian cuisine or the ones settled in some regions in Indonesia such as Java, Sumatra, and 99 that have been influenced by or adopted from other countries. other islands [3]. The impacts of colonization were always seen as 100 disastrous ones, but they rather left positive influence on various 101 aspects such as dances and traditional dishes. 102 * Indonesian traditional dishes that have been influenced by the Statement: All authors have contributed to the paper and have never submitted 103 Dutch are croquet, nastar (pineapple tart), klappertaart (coconut Q6 the manuscript, in whole or in part, to other journals. 104 * Corresponding author. Nutrition and Food Technology Departement, Faculty of cake), and kastengel (cheese stick). One example of the acculturaLife Science Surya University, Gading Serpong Boulevard Street Kav. M5/21, Curug 105 tion of Dutch and Indonesian dishes is klappertaart. It is originated Sangereng, Kelapa Dua, Tangerang, Banten, 15810, Indonesia. Q5 106 from North Celebes. Klappertaart is derived from words “klapper” E-mail addresses: [email protected] (C.C. Handoyo), chaclarissa17@ 107 and “tart”, which are Indonesian and Dutch, respectively. “Klapper” gmail.com (Clarissa), [email protected] (G. Claudia), [email protected] 108 (Milka), [email protected] (S.A. Firdayanti). was originally taken from the word “kelapa” or coconut that was 1 109 Home address: Atlanta Village, Fulton/19, Gading Serpong, Tangerang 15810, spelled as klapper by the Dutch people at that time, whereas “taart” Banten, Indonesia. Phone number: þ6282117713774. 110 is a Dutch word that refers to a cake. Klappertaart, which means 2 Home address: Atlanta Village, Fulton/19, Gading Serpong, Tangerang 15810, 111 coconut cake that is originated from Manado, becomes a favorite Banten, Indonesia. Phone number: þ622121499466. 112 3 Home address: Kelapa Molek 7 W2/20, Kelapa Gading, North Jakarta 14250, dessert because it tastes sweet and savory. In the colonialism 113 Indonesia. Phone number: þ6287881680295. period, the Dutch realized that Indonesians had a very large num4 Home address: Laguna Apartment, 22th floor, C-12, Penjaringan, Pluit, North 114 ber of coconut farms. The Dutch women experimented with young Jakarta 14450, Indonesia. Phone number: þ62817700896. 115 5 coconut meat in their tart recipe. Klappertaart is usually consumed Home address: Telaga Golf, Cluster Great Britain G7/2, Sawangan, Depok 16511, 116 by the upper middle class Dutch families in the East Indies. This Indonesia. Phone number: þ6281519137819. 117 118 https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002 119 2352-6181/© 2017 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/ Contents lists available at ScienceDirect
Journal of Ethnic Foods
Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food
licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).
Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods (2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
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Fig. 1. (A) Rijsttafel or rice table. The word is given by the Dutch to Indonesian eating habit. All the dishes are served all at once in a table. In rijsttafel, there are appetizers, main course, and desserts. In Indonesia, all the dishes can be eaten anytime not following the order of full course dinner. (B) The cover of the food recipes book made by the Dutch Q11,12 women. (C) Inside the book of food recipes.
recipe was recognized in Manado because of the native Indonesian maids who worked for the Dutch families learned the tart recipe, the Indonesian educated aristocrats who become friends with the Dutch people, and its massive sales in the market which lead to people's curiosity on how to make it. Klappertaart Klappertaart is one of the local dishes originated from North Celebes, Manado. The dish is made from coconut, walnuts, and raisins, and it tastes sweet and savory. Klappertaart was created experimentally by elite Dutch women of that time. They realized that Indonesia had a very large number of coconut farms. According to the Directorate of History and Traditional Values, in 1984e1985, the most productive commodities were coconut, coffee, and clove. According to the data, coconut crops reached the highest
productivity around 91 tons in a year (65%). At that time, coconuts were used for copra, oil, coconut milk, and others [4]. The Dutch women engaged in daily activities such as cooking and tailoring. They also liked to write books on food recipes. They were aware that coconut is one of the most productive commodities in Manado. Relating to that, they had intention to create a dish out of coconut. After some attempts, they finally created a proper dish called “klappertaart” or coconut cake [5]. This recipe spread in some ways, as the Dutch women did not do all cooking. If they had to make cakes for their husbands, native Indonesian maids usually were asked to do that. In addition, some of the natives classified as upper class had the chance to get around and act like the Dutch did. They eventually were curious about the cake and got the recipe from the Dutch right away. The spread of the recipe also happened through its sales in Indonesia, so the natives were intrigued to learn and make it at home.
Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods (2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
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66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 Fig. 2. Location of Manado. It is located in North Celebes (Sulawesi Island), Indonesia. Manado is surrounded by the coastline. Manado is one of the cities in Indonesia that is chosen 104 by the Dutch to get settled. Culture in Manado is influenced by the Dutch. 105 106 107 historiography, the term of cultivation system was applied because Klappertaart is a component of “rijsttafel” or “rice table”, a Dutch 108 that policy was dominant on putting native people into hardships. term that means an elaborate meal for following the presentation 109 During the implementation, this system was dominated by politics of many Indonesian side dishes served in a table all at once. The 110 and humanity disregard [7]. Dutch colonials usually had klappertaart as a dessert, whereas 111 The Dutch colonization in Manado has much affected surnative Indonesians did not have any array setting and had the cake 112 rounding people's lives at first place. The reason why the people whenever they like. 113 were acceptable to the new culture is because they were well 114 known for their high tolerance toward ethnic and religion History of Manado and Dutch cultural influence 115 diversity and acceptance of foreign culture. This is proved by 116 prevalence of many Dutch cultural habits in Manado which were According to the Communication and Informatics Department 117 adopted since the colonization, such as housing and yard setting, of City of Manado [6], Manado is the capital city of the North Cel118 habitual parties, drinks, foods, and children naming (use of family ebes, Indonesia. Manado is the second largest city in Celebes after 119 name). The correlation between Minahasa identity and the influMakassar. The vast majority of the population is Minahasa tribe 120 ence of the Dutch colonization has been termed Twapro, the because Manado is a part of Minahasa region. The people use 121 acronym of Twalfde Provincie van Netherlandsch (the 12th province Manado language for daily communication; its dialect is from local language, Dutch, Portuguese, and Spain because the region was of the Netherlands). This term once came to be problematic Q13 122 123 under these three countries’ rule. regarding Minahasa people identities in Indonesia. They were 124 Manado was set up to be a defense of Verenigde Oost-Indiesche identified as the being most influenced by the Dutch culture in all 125 Compagnie (VOC) since 1682 after Spain took over the region. live aspects above all other regions in Indonesia [8]. 126 VOC built a fortress and warehouse to handle Spain and Ternate. In the early 19th century, during the Dutch colonization, Min127 VOC established a cultivation system called Cultuurstelsel that ahasa people were enlightened and introduced to Christianization 128 required a portion of agricultural production to be devoted to and education. The Dutch presence also trained the locals about 129 exporting crops in VOC charge. VOC considered that North Celebes pig and cow livestock. The education that Minahasa people 130 attained was a Western style education that taught the essence of was a strategist trading route. But, in the Indonesian conventional Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods (2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
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Fig. 3. The process of making klappertaart. (A) Dough of klappertaart. (B) The addition of young coconut meat to the dough. (C) The dough is ready to be baked. (D) The dough is put into the oven and baked at 160 C for 15 minutes. (E) The addition of meringue, raisins, and walnuts on the top of the half-baked klappertaart. (F) The klappertaart is ready to be served after another 20 minutes of baking.
Fig. 4. Manado is rich in natural resources. One of the commodities abundantly available in Manado is coconut. In 2014, North Celebes produced 284.33027 tons of coconut. The meat of young coconut is used as an ingredient in preparing klappertaart. Coconuts have become exported commodities to several countries. The Netherlands is one of the importers.
openness, so Minahasa people tended to be open for foreign culture. Preparing klappertaart The ingredients used in the preparation of klappertaart are five young coconuts, three to four tablespoons of plain flour, half a bottle of fresh milk, three to four spoons of sugar, eight egg yolks, four tablespoons of butter, eight egg whites, four tablespoons of raisins, and cinnamon powder, and the cooking equipment used is pan, oven, and spatula. The process of preparing klappertaart begins with preheating the pan and melting the butter. Then, some flour, milk, and sugar are added and mixed together. An egg yolk was added along with a ladle of the previous mixture into a separate bowl. Then, the contents of the mixture are mixed until a thick consistency is obtained and then some raisins and chopped coconut meat are added into the mixture. The stove is turned off, and the mixture is poured into the baking pan. The mixture is baked for 15 minutes at 320 F (160 C). While the mixture is being baked, the egg whites and sugar are beaten until it becomes firm and stiff. After 15 minutes, the cake is taken out, the egg whites mixture is added on top, and it is baked for another 20 minutes.
Klappertaart recipe gains its wide recognition in Indonesia because of native Indonesian maids who worked for elite Dutch families, Indonesian educated aristocrats who become friends with the Dutch people, and its massive sales in the market which lead to people's curiosity on how to make it. Many Dutch women also include the klappertaart recipe in their cook book [4]. Brief history of klappertaart During the era of the Second World War, the Dutch's opinion toward desserts and snacks was different. Desserts are considered more symbolic as they take a long time to be prepared and have complicated methods and ingredients, whereas it is the other way around for the snacks. Therefore, by looking at the former aspects, klappertaart is considered a dessert as it has complicated methods and ingredients. In addition, during the Second World War, desserts were only served during special occasions [9] as klappertaart had rare and expensive ingredients. Nevertheless, in the era of postWorld War II, desserts became less fancy and started to be served more often. Nowadays, klappertaart has become Indonesians' favorite dessert to be served during occasions such as, family gatherings or birthday parties. Moreover, klappertaart is also sold as a common dessert.
Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods (2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
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The main ingredient of klappertaart is the meat of young coconut. This is because there are lots of coconut trees grown in Celebes. According to North Celebes Central Agency on Statistics (Badan Pusat Statistik Provinsi Sulawesi Utara) [10], Celebes produced 284.33027 tons of coconuts in 2014. This makes coconuts Indonesia's most exported commodity [11], whereas coconuts are the most imported commodity in the Netherlands [12]. In addition, one of klappertaart's main ingredients is flour, which is made from wheat. Wheat is first introduced in Indonesia around the beginning of 18th century during the Dutch colonization. At that time, wheat is cultivated in a land >900 m above the sea level with the average optimum temperature of 72e75 F, so that the European citizens in Indonesia can have enough food supplies [13]. The consumption of wheat (flour, for instance) by the Dutch was a very common habit, and Indonesians started to adapt to this kind of habit eventually. Therefore, flour is included as an ingredient to develop the texture of klappertaart. Moreover, several types of flours, such as corn starch and custard [14], were used as one of the ingredients of klappertaart. The purpose of combining several types of flour is to create that moist and soft texture in the klappertaart. The type of dairy product included in klappertaart is milk. Nevertheless, the consumption of dairy product is not adapted from the Indonesian culture. Indonesians consume less dairy compared with other ASEAN countries [15]. According to Morey [16], 90% of dairy production is located in West Java. Other regions of dairy production are Malang, Pasuruan, Boyolali, Semarang, and Bandung, whereas such production does not exist in North Celebes according to the data published by the Directorate of Animal Husbandry [17]. This case has shown that dairy product is very rare in North Celebes, especially during those times when the Dutch people settled in Manado. Therefore, it can be said that the inclusion of dairy (milk) in klappertaart's ingredients may have come from the influence of the Dutch people or some people who might have known about the consumption of dairy products and how to maintain them. It is proven by the fact that the Dutch people often add some milk into their foods [18]. Therefore, condensed milk is used in klappertaart to add more flavors to it. Rum is also added as one of the ingredients of klappertaart. Rum is a product made from sugar cane. During the war, the Netherlands exported rums to its colonies all over the world, for instance, Albany's rum consumption is the influence of the Dutch colonization on Albany [19]. Similarly, the Dutch colonization also influences the rum consumption in Indonesia. At first, rum was only consumed as a beverage, but as the Dutch people loved the taste of rum, it was included in the ingredients of klappertaart. Eggs are also included in klappertaart's ingredients. In the klappertaart mixture, egg yolks are used as the emulsifier to maintain the mixture's stability, so that the separation of water and fat (butter) can be prevented [20], whereas the egg whites are used as its topping. Egg whites are beaten until a stiff consistency is obtained which will turn out to be crispy once it is baked. Raisins gain their popularity in Indonesia during the Dutch colonization. Raisins are a product of dried grapes. In 1828, cultivation of grapes started in Kupang, Celebes, Besuki, and Banyuwangi [21]. The Dutch people love to consume raisins, and this is shown through their habits of having raisins as snacks or bread toppings [22] or even along with buttered rice [23]. Kacang kenari, also referred as “Java Almond” (even though almond is actually very rare in Java), is sometimes added as a klappertaart topping. Almonds can mostly be found in the eastern part of Indonesia, such as North Celebes, Moluccas, and Seram Island [24]. In Manado (North Celebes), almond is considered as tourists' most favorite snack.
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66 67 68 69 Conclusion 70 71 The Dutch colonization in Indonesia also brings positive impacts 72 to the country, and klappertaart is one of them. It is acculturation 73 between Indonesia and the Netherlands in North Celebes. Klap74 pertaart recipe is passed on from the Dutch people to native In75 donesians who worked for them or were friends with them. 76 Klappertaart was served during special occasions due to how 77 expensive its ingredients were back in those days. But nowadays, 78 klappertaart has become a part of the Indonesian culture, and it is 79 now easier to find. Q16 80 81 Acknowledgment 82 83 We would like to thank Dr. Jugiarie Soegiarto, M. Hum, lecturer 84 of Faculty of Humanity, Universitas Indonesia, Depok, West Java, 85 Indonesia, and Mr. Andreas Maryoto as journalist and humanist for 86 providing advice in the process of writing this research entitled 87 “Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influence traditional food”. 88 We would also like to thank Dr. Albert Kuhon, the lecturer of Cul89 tural Food Studies, Universitas Surya, Tangerang, Banten, Indonesia. 90 91 92 References 93 [1] Badan Pusat Statistik. Kewarganegaraan, Suku Bangsa, Agama, dan Bahasa 94 Sehari-hari Penduduk Indonesia - Hasil Sensus Penduduk 2010. Jakarta: 95 Central Bureau of Statistics; 2010. 96 [2] Sabana S. Nilai Estetis Pada Kemasan Makanan Tradisional Yogyakarta. J Vis Art Des 2007;1:10e25. 97 [3] Brown C. A Short History of Indonesia: the Unlikely Nation? Australia: Allen 98 and Unwin; 2003. 99 [4] Scholten EL. Women and the Colonial State. Amsterdam: Amsterdam University Press; 2000. 100 [5] Direktorat Sejarah dan Nilai Tradisional. Tata Kelakuan di Lingkungan Per101 gaulan Keluarga dan Masyarakat Daerah Sulawesi Utara Proyek Investarisasi 102 dan Dokumentasi Kebudayaan Daerah. Sulawesi Utara: Direktorat Jenderal Kebudayaan, Departemen Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan; 1985. 103 [6] Dinas Komunikasi dan Informatika Pemerintah Kota Manado [Internet]. 104 Pemerintah Kota Manado; 4 Juli 2017 [cited 2017 Oct 7]. Available from, 105 https://manadokota.go.id/index.php/2017/07/04/mengenal-pendudukmanado-pada-masa-kolonial-belanda/. 106 [7] Tongkad, Sartika D, Yunus, Resmiyati and Apriyanto J. Peran Yohan Faisal 107 Kasad Damopoli dalam Mempertahankan Kemerdekaan 1945 di Bolaang 108 Mongondow. Gorontalo: Universitas Negeri Gorontalo; 2014. 109 [8] Henley D. Nationalism and Regionalism in a Colonial Context; Minahasa in the Dutch East Indies. Leiden: KILTV Press; 1996. 110 [9] Etossi S. Indonesian and Moroccan Eating Cultures History of Adaptation and 111 Authenticity (1950-2000). Netherlands: Leiden University Repository; 2014. 112 [10] Badan Pusat Statistik Sulawesi Utara. Sulawesi Utara dalam Angka 2015. Manado: Badan Pusat Statistik Provinsi Sulawesi Utara; 2015. 113 [11] Direktorat Jenderal Perkebunan. Statistik Perkebunan Indonesia: Kelapa (Co114 conut) 2014-2016. Jakarta: Direktorat Jenderal Perkebunan; 2015. 115 [12] Arancon RN. Market and trade of coconut products: Expert's consulatation on coconut sector development in Asia and the Pacific. Bangkok: Asian and pa116 cific coconut community; 2013. 117 [13] Azrai M, Andayani NN and Talanca AH. [Internet]. Asal Usul dan Taksonomi 118 Tanaman Gandum. 2017 [cited 2007 Oct 7]. Available from, http://balitsereal. litbang.pertanian.go.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/azraigdm.pdf. 119 [14] Novita D. 22 Variasi Klappertaart: Hidangan Spesial Khas Indonesia. Genta 120 Group Production; 2013. 121 [15] Perdagangan Kementerian. Berita Industri: Konsumsi susu masih 1,09 Liter per kapita. 2015 [Online]. Available, http://www.kemenperin.go.id/artikel/ 122 8890/Konsumsi-Susu-Masih-11,09-Liter-per-Kapita. 123 [16] Morey P. Dairy Industry Development in Indonesia. Jakarta: International 124 Fiance Corporation; 2011. 125 [17] Direktorat Jenderal Peternakan dan Kesehatan Hewan. Statistik Peternakan dan Kesehatan Hewan 2017: Produksi Susu Menurut Provinsi. Jakarta: Dir126 ektorat Jenderal Peternakan dan Kesehatan Hewan; 2017. 127 [18] Food and Agriculture Organization. Chapter 2 Global Dairy Sector: Status and 128 Trends in Status and Prospects for Smallholder Milk Production A Global 129 130 Therefore, almond is considered as a valuable and important commodity which needs to be developed [24].
Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods (2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
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Perspective. Rome: Food and Agriculture Organization of The United Nations; 2010. 16e28p. [19] DiVirgilio J. Rum Punch and Cultural Revolution: The Impact of the Seven Years' Wars in Albany. New York: New York History Fall; 2005. [20] Nordin N. Bijak Masak. Malaysia: Grup Buku Karangkraf SDN. BHD; 2010. [21] Budiyanti E and Apriyanti LH. Bertanam Anggur di Pekarangan. Jakarta: Agriflo; 2015.
[22] Roefls MB. Food and Meal Patterns of the Netherlands, and Applications to Dutch Communities in the U.S.A. Los Angeles. 1987. [23] Verwey J. Serdadu Belanda di Indonesia. Jakarta: KILTV; 2015. [24] Djakarsi GS. Teknologi Pengolahan Minyak Kenari. Manado: Sam Ratulangi University; 2013.
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55 56 57 58 59 60 61 journal homepage: http://journalofethnicfoods.net 62 63 Original Article 64 65 * 66 67 *, 1 2 3 4 68 Chrisfella Cokrro Handoyo , Clarissa , Grace Claudia , Milka , Q17 69 5 Q1,2 Syahnazia Adinda Firdayanti 70 Q3,4 Nutrition and Food Technology Departement, Faculty of Life Science Surya University, Tangerang, Banten, Indonesia 71 72 73 74 a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t Q7 75 Article history: As one of the most ethnically diverse societies, Indonesia is well known for its cultural diversity such as 76 Received 16 October 2017 traditional practices and customs. Some of them are historically affected by colonization. Indonesia 77 Received in revised form experienced a colonial history under the Dutch rule for a long time. It is considered as a long colonial 78 5 December 2017 period that has left huge influences on various aspects of Indonesian people's lives and Indonesian 79 Accepted 6 December 2017 cuisine. As a result of colonization, many Dutch tribes set foot in many regions of Indonesia. At that time, Available online xxx 80 the Dutch traders who came to Manado, North Celebes, introduced a recipe of a dish that has later been 81 combined with Indonesian ingredients, such as coconut and spices. This study aims to analyze Keywords: 82 the influence of the Dutch culture on Indonesian dish, klappertaart. Klappertaart in Indonesian literally Culture 83 means “kue kelapa” or coconut cake that is usually served during special events. The cake is made from Dutch 84 local ingredients such as coconut, flour, butter, eggs, milk, cinnamon, and raisins. That is what makes Indonesia 85 klappertaart associated with Manado. The cake can be either baked or steamed. Nowadays, klappertaart is Klappertaart Manado 86 not only found in Manado but is also widely spread in major cities in Indonesia. © 2017 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the 87 CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). 88 89 90 91 92 Every region or tribe definitely has distinct dishes to whet people's Introduction 93 appetite. (Figs. 1e4) 94 Indonesian diversity is not fully due to original Indonesia is an archipelago country that consists of more than indigenous Q8 Q9 95 1,300 ethnic tribes showing cultural diversity such as languages, cultures. Many of the cultures have been influenced by the Western 96 food, and arts [1]. Its cultural diversity also includes local dishes world, especially Europe. Before independence, Indonesia was un97 spread in every region. Traditional dishes are a legacy of a tribe in a der the Dutch rule. In the early 20th century, many Dutch people 98 specific region [2]. It may be original Indonesian cuisine or the ones settled in some regions in Indonesia such as Java, Sumatra, and 99 that have been influenced by or adopted from other countries. other islands [3]. The impacts of colonization were always seen as 100 disastrous ones, but they rather left positive influence on various 101 aspects such as dances and traditional dishes. 102 * Indonesian traditional dishes that have been influenced by the Statement: All authors have contributed to the paper and have never submitted 103 Dutch are croquet, nastar (pineapple tart), klappertaart (coconut Q6 the manuscript, in whole or in part, to other journals. 104 * Corresponding author. Nutrition and Food Technology Departement, Faculty of cake), and kastengel (cheese stick). One example of the acculturaLife Science Surya University, Gading Serpong Boulevard Street Kav. M5/21, Curug 105 tion of Dutch and Indonesian dishes is klappertaart. It is originated Sangereng, Kelapa Dua, Tangerang, Banten, 15810, Indonesia. Q5 106 from North Celebes. Klappertaart is derived from words “klapper” E-mail addresses: [email protected] (C.C. Handoyo), chaclarissa17@ 107 and “tart”, which are Indonesian and Dutch, respectively. “Klapper” gmail.com (Clarissa), [email protected] (G. Claudia), [email protected] 108 (Milka), [email protected] (S.A. Firdayanti). was originally taken from the word “kelapa” or coconut that was 1 109 Home address: Atlanta Village, Fulton/19, Gading Serpong, Tangerang 15810, spelled as klapper by the Dutch people at that time, whereas “taart” Banten, Indonesia. Phone number: þ6282117713774. 110 is a Dutch word that refers to a cake. Klappertaart, which means 2 Home address: Atlanta Village, Fulton/19, Gading Serpong, Tangerang 15810, 111 coconut cake that is originated from Manado, becomes a favorite Banten, Indonesia. Phone number: þ622121499466. 112 3 Home address: Kelapa Molek 7 W2/20, Kelapa Gading, North Jakarta 14250, dessert because it tastes sweet and savory. In the colonialism 113 Indonesia. Phone number: þ6287881680295. period, the Dutch realized that Indonesians had a very large num4 Home address: Laguna Apartment, 22th floor, C-12, Penjaringan, Pluit, North 114 ber of coconut farms. The Dutch women experimented with young Jakarta 14450, Indonesia. Phone number: þ62817700896. 115 5 coconut meat in their tart recipe. Klappertaart is usually consumed Home address: Telaga Golf, Cluster Great Britain G7/2, Sawangan, Depok 16511, 116 by the upper middle class Dutch families in the East Indies. This Indonesia. Phone number: þ6281519137819. 117 118 https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002 119 2352-6181/© 2017 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/ Contents lists available at ScienceDirect
Journal of Ethnic Foods
Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food
licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).
Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods (2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
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Fig. 1. (A) Rijsttafel or rice table. The word is given by the Dutch to Indonesian eating habit. All the dishes are served all at once in a table. In rijsttafel, there are appetizers, main course, and desserts. In Indonesia, all the dishes can be eaten anytime not following the order of full course dinner. (B) The cover of the food recipes book made by the Dutch Q11,12 women. (C) Inside the book of food recipes.
recipe was recognized in Manado because of the native Indonesian maids who worked for the Dutch families learned the tart recipe, the Indonesian educated aristocrats who become friends with the Dutch people, and its massive sales in the market which lead to people's curiosity on how to make it. Klappertaart Klappertaart is one of the local dishes originated from North Celebes, Manado. The dish is made from coconut, walnuts, and raisins, and it tastes sweet and savory. Klappertaart was created experimentally by elite Dutch women of that time. They realized that Indonesia had a very large number of coconut farms. According to the Directorate of History and Traditional Values, in 1984e1985, the most productive commodities were coconut, coffee, and clove. According to the data, coconut crops reached the highest
productivity around 91 tons in a year (65%). At that time, coconuts were used for copra, oil, coconut milk, and others [4]. The Dutch women engaged in daily activities such as cooking and tailoring. They also liked to write books on food recipes. They were aware that coconut is one of the most productive commodities in Manado. Relating to that, they had intention to create a dish out of coconut. After some attempts, they finally created a proper dish called “klappertaart” or coconut cake [5]. This recipe spread in some ways, as the Dutch women did not do all cooking. If they had to make cakes for their husbands, native Indonesian maids usually were asked to do that. In addition, some of the natives classified as upper class had the chance to get around and act like the Dutch did. They eventually were curious about the cake and got the recipe from the Dutch right away. The spread of the recipe also happened through its sales in Indonesia, so the natives were intrigued to learn and make it at home.
Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods (2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
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66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 Fig. 2. Location of Manado. It is located in North Celebes (Sulawesi Island), Indonesia. Manado is surrounded by the coastline. Manado is one of the cities in Indonesia that is chosen 104 by the Dutch to get settled. Culture in Manado is influenced by the Dutch. 105 106 107 historiography, the term of cultivation system was applied because Klappertaart is a component of “rijsttafel” or “rice table”, a Dutch 108 that policy was dominant on putting native people into hardships. term that means an elaborate meal for following the presentation 109 During the implementation, this system was dominated by politics of many Indonesian side dishes served in a table all at once. The 110 and humanity disregard [7]. Dutch colonials usually had klappertaart as a dessert, whereas 111 The Dutch colonization in Manado has much affected surnative Indonesians did not have any array setting and had the cake 112 rounding people's lives at first place. The reason why the people whenever they like. 113 were acceptable to the new culture is because they were well 114 known for their high tolerance toward ethnic and religion History of Manado and Dutch cultural influence 115 diversity and acceptance of foreign culture. This is proved by 116 prevalence of many Dutch cultural habits in Manado which were According to the Communication and Informatics Department 117 adopted since the colonization, such as housing and yard setting, of City of Manado [6], Manado is the capital city of the North Cel118 habitual parties, drinks, foods, and children naming (use of family ebes, Indonesia. Manado is the second largest city in Celebes after 119 name). The correlation between Minahasa identity and the influMakassar. The vast majority of the population is Minahasa tribe 120 ence of the Dutch colonization has been termed Twapro, the because Manado is a part of Minahasa region. The people use 121 acronym of Twalfde Provincie van Netherlandsch (the 12th province Manado language for daily communication; its dialect is from local language, Dutch, Portuguese, and Spain because the region was of the Netherlands). This term once came to be problematic Q13 122 123 under these three countries’ rule. regarding Minahasa people identities in Indonesia. They were 124 Manado was set up to be a defense of Verenigde Oost-Indiesche identified as the being most influenced by the Dutch culture in all 125 Compagnie (VOC) since 1682 after Spain took over the region. live aspects above all other regions in Indonesia [8]. 126 VOC built a fortress and warehouse to handle Spain and Ternate. In the early 19th century, during the Dutch colonization, Min127 VOC established a cultivation system called Cultuurstelsel that ahasa people were enlightened and introduced to Christianization 128 required a portion of agricultural production to be devoted to and education. The Dutch presence also trained the locals about 129 exporting crops in VOC charge. VOC considered that North Celebes pig and cow livestock. The education that Minahasa people 130 attained was a Western style education that taught the essence of was a strategist trading route. But, in the Indonesian conventional Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods (2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
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Fig. 3. The process of making klappertaart. (A) Dough of klappertaart. (B) The addition of young coconut meat to the dough. (C) The dough is ready to be baked. (D) The dough is put into the oven and baked at 160 C for 15 minutes. (E) The addition of meringue, raisins, and walnuts on the top of the half-baked klappertaart. (F) The klappertaart is ready to be served after another 20 minutes of baking.
Fig. 4. Manado is rich in natural resources. One of the commodities abundantly available in Manado is coconut. In 2014, North Celebes produced 284.33027 tons of coconut. The meat of young coconut is used as an ingredient in preparing klappertaart. Coconuts have become exported commodities to several countries. The Netherlands is one of the importers.
openness, so Minahasa people tended to be open for foreign culture. Preparing klappertaart The ingredients used in the preparation of klappertaart are five young coconuts, three to four tablespoons of plain flour, half a bottle of fresh milk, three to four spoons of sugar, eight egg yolks, four tablespoons of butter, eight egg whites, four tablespoons of raisins, and cinnamon powder, and the cooking equipment used is pan, oven, and spatula. The process of preparing klappertaart begins with preheating the pan and melting the butter. Then, some flour, milk, and sugar are added and mixed together. An egg yolk was added along with a ladle of the previous mixture into a separate bowl. Then, the contents of the mixture are mixed until a thick consistency is obtained and then some raisins and chopped coconut meat are added into the mixture. The stove is turned off, and the mixture is poured into the baking pan. The mixture is baked for 15 minutes at 320 F (160 C). While the mixture is being baked, the egg whites and sugar are beaten until it becomes firm and stiff. After 15 minutes, the cake is taken out, the egg whites mixture is added on top, and it is baked for another 20 minutes.
Klappertaart recipe gains its wide recognition in Indonesia because of native Indonesian maids who worked for elite Dutch families, Indonesian educated aristocrats who become friends with the Dutch people, and its massive sales in the market which lead to people's curiosity on how to make it. Many Dutch women also include the klappertaart recipe in their cook book [4]. Brief history of klappertaart During the era of the Second World War, the Dutch's opinion toward desserts and snacks was different. Desserts are considered more symbolic as they take a long time to be prepared and have complicated methods and ingredients, whereas it is the other way around for the snacks. Therefore, by looking at the former aspects, klappertaart is considered a dessert as it has complicated methods and ingredients. In addition, during the Second World War, desserts were only served during special occasions [9] as klappertaart had rare and expensive ingredients. Nevertheless, in the era of postWorld War II, desserts became less fancy and started to be served more often. Nowadays, klappertaart has become Indonesians' favorite dessert to be served during occasions such as, family gatherings or birthday parties. Moreover, klappertaart is also sold as a common dessert.
Please cite this article in press as: Handoyo CC, et al., Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influenced traditional food, Journal of Ethnic Foods (2017), https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.002
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The main ingredient of klappertaart is the meat of young coconut. This is because there are lots of coconut trees grown in Celebes. According to North Celebes Central Agency on Statistics (Badan Pusat Statistik Provinsi Sulawesi Utara) [10], Celebes produced 284.33027 tons of coconuts in 2014. This makes coconuts Indonesia's most exported commodity [11], whereas coconuts are the most imported commodity in the Netherlands [12]. In addition, one of klappertaart's main ingredients is flour, which is made from wheat. Wheat is first introduced in Indonesia around the beginning of 18th century during the Dutch colonization. At that time, wheat is cultivated in a land >900 m above the sea level with the average optimum temperature of 72e75 F, so that the European citizens in Indonesia can have enough food supplies [13]. The consumption of wheat (flour, for instance) by the Dutch was a very common habit, and Indonesians started to adapt to this kind of habit eventually. Therefore, flour is included as an ingredient to develop the texture of klappertaart. Moreover, several types of flours, such as corn starch and custard [14], were used as one of the ingredients of klappertaart. The purpose of combining several types of flour is to create that moist and soft texture in the klappertaart. The type of dairy product included in klappertaart is milk. Nevertheless, the consumption of dairy product is not adapted from the Indonesian culture. Indonesians consume less dairy compared with other ASEAN countries [15]. According to Morey [16], 90% of dairy production is located in West Java. Other regions of dairy production are Malang, Pasuruan, Boyolali, Semarang, and Bandung, whereas such production does not exist in North Celebes according to the data published by the Directorate of Animal Husbandry [17]. This case has shown that dairy product is very rare in North Celebes, especially during those times when the Dutch people settled in Manado. Therefore, it can be said that the inclusion of dairy (milk) in klappertaart's ingredients may have come from the influence of the Dutch people or some people who might have known about the consumption of dairy products and how to maintain them. It is proven by the fact that the Dutch people often add some milk into their foods [18]. Therefore, condensed milk is used in klappertaart to add more flavors to it. Rum is also added as one of the ingredients of klappertaart. Rum is a product made from sugar cane. During the war, the Netherlands exported rums to its colonies all over the world, for instance, Albany's rum consumption is the influence of the Dutch colonization on Albany [19]. Similarly, the Dutch colonization also influences the rum consumption in Indonesia. At first, rum was only consumed as a beverage, but as the Dutch people loved the taste of rum, it was included in the ingredients of klappertaart. Eggs are also included in klappertaart's ingredients. In the klappertaart mixture, egg yolks are used as the emulsifier to maintain the mixture's stability, so that the separation of water and fat (butter) can be prevented [20], whereas the egg whites are used as its topping. Egg whites are beaten until a stiff consistency is obtained which will turn out to be crispy once it is baked. Raisins gain their popularity in Indonesia during the Dutch colonization. Raisins are a product of dried grapes. In 1828, cultivation of grapes started in Kupang, Celebes, Besuki, and Banyuwangi [21]. The Dutch people love to consume raisins, and this is shown through their habits of having raisins as snacks or bread toppings [22] or even along with buttered rice [23]. Kacang kenari, also referred as “Java Almond” (even though almond is actually very rare in Java), is sometimes added as a klappertaart topping. Almonds can mostly be found in the eastern part of Indonesia, such as North Celebes, Moluccas, and Seram Island [24]. In Manado (North Celebes), almond is considered as tourists' most favorite snack.
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66 67 68 69 Conclusion 70 71 The Dutch colonization in Indonesia also brings positive impacts 72 to the country, and klappertaart is one of them. It is acculturation 73 between Indonesia and the Netherlands in North Celebes. Klap74 pertaart recipe is passed on from the Dutch people to native In75 donesians who worked for them or were friends with them. 76 Klappertaart was served during special occasions due to how 77 expensive its ingredients were back in those days. But nowadays, 78 klappertaart has become a part of the Indonesian culture, and it is 79 now easier to find. Q16 80 81 Acknowledgment 82 83 We would like to thank Dr. Jugiarie Soegiarto, M. Hum, lecturer 84 of Faculty of Humanity, Universitas Indonesia, Depok, West Java, 85 Indonesia, and Mr. Andreas Maryoto as journalist and humanist for 86 providing advice in the process of writing this research entitled 87 “Klappertaart: an IndonesianeDutch influence traditional food”. 88 We would also like to thank Dr. Albert Kuhon, the lecturer of Cul89 tural Food Studies, Universitas Surya, Tangerang, Banten, Indonesia. 90 91 92 References 93 [1] Badan Pusat Statistik. Kewarganegaraan, Suku Bangsa, Agama, dan Bahasa 94 Sehari-hari Penduduk Indonesia - Hasil Sensus Penduduk 2010. Jakarta: 95 Central Bureau of Statistics; 2010. 96 [2] Sabana S. Nilai Estetis Pada Kemasan Makanan Tradisional Yogyakarta. J Vis Art Des 2007;1:10e25. 97 [3] Brown C. A Short History of Indonesia: the Unlikely Nation? Australia: Allen 98 and Unwin; 2003. 99 [4] Scholten EL. Women and the Colonial State. Amsterdam: Amsterdam University Press; 2000. 100 [5] Direktorat Sejarah dan Nilai Tradisional. Tata Kelakuan di Lingkungan Per101 gaulan Keluarga dan Masyarakat Daerah Sulawesi Utara Proyek Investarisasi 102 dan Dokumentasi Kebudayaan Daerah. Sulawesi Utara: Direktorat Jenderal Kebudayaan, Departemen Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan; 1985. 103 [6] Dinas Komunikasi dan Informatika Pemerintah Kota Manado [Internet]. 104 Pemerintah Kota Manado; 4 Juli 2017 [cited 2017 Oct 7]. Available from, 105 https://manadokota.go.id/index.php/2017/07/04/mengenal-pendudukmanado-pada-masa-kolonial-belanda/. 106 [7] Tongkad, Sartika D, Yunus, Resmiyati and Apriyanto J. Peran Yohan Faisal 107 Kasad Damopoli dalam Mempertahankan Kemerdekaan 1945 di Bolaang 108 Mongondow. Gorontalo: Universitas Negeri Gorontalo; 2014. 109 [8] Henley D. Nationalism and Regionalism in a Colonial Context; Minahasa in the Dutch East Indies. Leiden: KILTV Press; 1996. 110 [9] Etossi S. Indonesian and Moroccan Eating Cultures History of Adaptation and 111 Authenticity (1950-2000). Netherlands: Leiden University Repository; 2014. 112 [10] Badan Pusat Statistik Sulawesi Utara. Sulawesi Utara dalam Angka 2015. Manado: Badan Pusat Statistik Provinsi Sulawesi Utara; 2015. 113 [11] Direktorat Jenderal Perkebunan. Statistik Perkebunan Indonesia: Kelapa (Co114 conut) 2014-2016. Jakarta: Direktorat Jenderal Perkebunan; 2015. 115 [12] Arancon RN. Market and trade of coconut products: Expert's consulatation on coconut sector development in Asia and the Pacific. Bangkok: Asian and pa116 cific coconut community; 2013. 117 [13] Azrai M, Andayani NN and Talanca AH. [Internet]. Asal Usul dan Taksonomi 118 Tanaman Gandum. 2017 [cited 2007 Oct 7]. Available from, http://balitsereal. litbang.pertanian.go.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/azraigdm.pdf. 119 [14] Novita D. 22 Variasi Klappertaart: Hidangan Spesial Khas Indonesia. Genta 120 Group Production; 2013. 121 [15] Perdagangan Kementerian. Berita Industri: Konsumsi susu masih 1,09 Liter per kapita. 2015 [Online]. Available, http://www.kemenperin.go.id/artikel/ 122 8890/Konsumsi-Susu-Masih-11,09-Liter-per-Kapita. 123 [16] Morey P. Dairy Industry Development in Indonesia. Jakarta: International 124 Fiance Corporation; 2011. 125 [17] Direktorat Jenderal Peternakan dan Kesehatan Hewan. Statistik Peternakan dan Kesehatan Hewan 2017: Produksi Susu Menurut Provinsi. Jakarta: Dir126 ektorat Jenderal Peternakan dan Kesehatan Hewan; 2017. 127 [18] Food and Agriculture Organization. Chapter 2 Global Dairy Sector: Status and 128 Trends in Status and Prospects for Smallholder Milk Production A Global 129 130 Therefore, almond is considered as a valuable and important commodity which needs to be developed [24].
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Perspective. Rome: Food and Agriculture Organization of The United Nations; 2010. 16e28p. [19] DiVirgilio J. Rum Punch and Cultural Revolution: The Impact of the Seven Years' Wars in Albany. New York: New York History Fall; 2005. [20] Nordin N. Bijak Masak. Malaysia: Grup Buku Karangkraf SDN. BHD; 2010. [21] Budiyanti E and Apriyanti LH. Bertanam Anggur di Pekarangan. Jakarta: Agriflo; 2015.
[22] Roefls MB. Food and Meal Patterns of the Netherlands, and Applications to Dutch Communities in the U.S.A. Los Angeles. 1987. [23] Verwey J. Serdadu Belanda di Indonesia. Jakarta: KILTV; 2015. [24] Djakarsi GS. Teknologi Pengolahan Minyak Kenari. Manado: Sam Ratulangi University; 2013.
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