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Military Section Literary Award
determine experimentally the types of emulsions represented in the products he will recommend. filter paper method (for relatively nonviscous emulsions)
Several drops of the emulsion are placed in the center of a filter paper. After several minutes a zone will appear around the drops and will slowly expand. If the filter paper has been weakened, that is to say, if a stirring rod will easily punch a hole through this zone, the emulsion is water continuous. Oil continuous emulsions will also create zones but the paper is not weakened. drop dilution method (for relatively nonviscous emulsions)
A drop or two of the emulsion is added to a beaker of water and stirred with a spatula. If the emulsion disperses and forms a milky solution, it is probably water continuous. If it does not disperse but merely breaks into droplets which float or sink, it is oil continuous. hot water dilution method (for viscous emulsions)
Some emulsions are too viscous for the previous test to give conclusive evidence. To a beaker of nearly boiling water, a drop or small amount of the emulsion is added. If, after a few seconds (the emulsion must warm up), it literally explodes by rapidly spreading over the surface of the water and forms a milky solution when stirred gently, it is water continuous. If it does not spread rapidly or does not disperse easily, it is oil continuous.
conclusion
Health and Disease," J. Southern Med. Assn., 55, 996(Oct. 1962).
Occasionally confusing terminology appears on the labels of cosmetic products. For example, what is a "rich emollient?" Does this infer expense or potency? What is a "texturizing" cream or "dewy freshness?" Semanticists will tell you that these are advertising claims which carry considerable impact. Is not the word "moisturizer" possibly a misnomer? The noun "moisturizer" like "dynamiter" is an active term inferring positive ability to do something, to make something more wet. Occlusive bases, however, are passive; they merely lay upon the skin while skin processes do the "moisturizing." One of the more blatant terms is "penetrating ingredients." A skin scientist will tell you that a penetrating ingredient is one which is percutaneously absorbed, one which passes through the skin. The director of cosmetic research for a leading cosmetic firm admitted to a group of dermatologists 22 that no cosmetic product penetrates the skin and that the term "penetrates" merely means that it rubs in well and "leaves a dry, silky, velvety or even dewy (moist) feel to the skin." Furthermore, he felt that the public knew that it meant just this. One cannot help but wonder if he does not give the public credit for an inordinate amount of sophistication in deciphering cosmetic claims. One further wonders if the labeled claim of "vanishes" or "rubs in well" wouldn't tell the story a bit more succinctly. •
3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
10. 11.
12. 13.
14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20.
21.
references 1. 2.
Blank, I., "Factors which Influence the Water Content of the Stratum Corneum," J. Invest. Derm., 18,433(1952). Suskind, R., "Cutaneous Cleansing in
Kalish,
}.,
"Cosmetic
Compounding,"
'Drug and Cosmetic Ind., 116(April 1966).
22.
Steigleder, Raab, "Skin Protection Afforded by Ointments," J. Invest. Derm., 38, 3, 129(March 1962). Borata, A., Grin ell, R.N., "Experimental and Clinical Observations on Dry Skin," J. Amer. Geriatric Soc., 10, 413(May 1962). Spoor, H.}., "Management and Maintenance of Natural Skin Oil," N.Y. State J. Med., 58, 3292(1958). Weissberg, G., "Efficacy of Bath Oil in Management of Dry Skin," Clin. Med., 7, 1161(1960). Lieberman, W., "Treatment of Peri-Anal Dermatitis," Amer. J. Protology, 12, 374 (1961). Taylor, E., "Cutaneous Adsorption of Bath Oils," Arch. Derm., 87, 369(March 1963). Haensch, R., Amer. Perfumer and Cosmetics 79, 29(July 1964). Becher, P., Courtney, D.L., "A PhysicoChemical Approach to a Floating Bath Oil," Amer. Perfumer and Cosmetics, 80, 25(Nov. 1965). Bern, H., et aI, "Influence of Vitamin A on Epidermis," Am. J. Anat., 96, 419(May 1955). Montagna, W., "Penetration and Local Effect of Vitamin A on Skin of Guinea Pig," Proc. Soc. BioI. and Med., 86, 668(Aug. 1954). Mandelbaum, J., and Schlesinger, L., "Absorption of Vitamin A through Human Skin," Dermat. and Syph., 46, 431(Sept. 1942). Flesh, P., "Inhibition of Keratin Formation with Unsaturated Compounds," J. Invest. Derm., 19, 353(1952). Blank,!., "Action of Emollient Creams and their Additives," JAMA, 164, 414(May 25, 1957). Strauss, }., "Hormones in Cosmetics," JAMA 186, 759(Nov. 1963). Behrman, H.T., "Hormone Creams and Facial Skin," JAMA, ISS, 119(1954). Silson, }., "'Pregnenolone Acetate' Dermatologically Active Steroid," J. Soc. Cosmetic Chem., 13, 129 (April 1962). Sternberg, T.H., Levan, P., Wright, E.T., "Hydrating Effects of Pregnenolone Acetate on Human Skin," Curro Ther. Research, 3, 469(Nov. 1961). Lubowe, 1., "Effect of Placenta Gel Extract on Aging Skin (Non-Estrogenic)," J. Amer. Geriat. Soc., 11, 914(Sept. 1963). Goldemberg, R.L., "Cosmetic Formulating, Possible Applications in Dermatologic Practice," Arch. Derm. (Chic), 88, 627(Nov. 1963).
selection committee for •••
military section literary award the selection committee for the military section literary Onaward, which is open to all APHA members in the federal services who have contributed to pharmacy literature during 1966, are the followingCharles W. Bliven, executive secretary, American Association of Colleges of Pharmacy Charles B. Cleveland, editor, American Hospital Formulary Service Chauncey I. Cooper, dean, school of pharmacy, Howard University Edward F. Salim, director, APhA Foundation Drug Standards Laboratory
654
Journal of the AMERICAN PHARMACEUTICAL ASSOCIATION
The award, sponsored by Eli Lilly and Company and presented at the APHA annual meeting, is given for the most outstanding paper published on pharmacy in the federal government during the past year. Topics for consideration include1. Pharmaceutical practice, education or administration 2. Pharmaceutical research 3. Pharmaceutical law, or legislation, or professional regulation
Pharmacists interested in being considered for the award, which consists of a $500 honorarium and an inscribed plaque, should send six copies of their published manuscript to APHA's Division of Governmental Pharmaceutical Services, 2215 Constitution Avenue N.W., Washington, D.C. 20037.
Several drops of the emulsion are placed in the center of a filter paper. After several minutes a zone will appear around the drops and will slowly expand. If the filter paper has been weakened, that is to say, if a stirring rod will easily punch a hole through this zone, the emulsion is water continuous. Oil continuous emulsions will also create zones but the paper is not weakened. drop dilution method (for relatively nonviscous emulsions)
A drop or two of the emulsion is added to a beaker of water and stirred with a spatula. If the emulsion disperses and forms a milky solution, it is probably water continuous. If it does not disperse but merely breaks into droplets which float or sink, it is oil continuous. hot water dilution method (for viscous emulsions)
Some emulsions are too viscous for the previous test to give conclusive evidence. To a beaker of nearly boiling water, a drop or small amount of the emulsion is added. If, after a few seconds (the emulsion must warm up), it literally explodes by rapidly spreading over the surface of the water and forms a milky solution when stirred gently, it is water continuous. If it does not spread rapidly or does not disperse easily, it is oil continuous.
conclusion
Health and Disease," J. Southern Med. Assn., 55, 996(Oct. 1962).
Occasionally confusing terminology appears on the labels of cosmetic products. For example, what is a "rich emollient?" Does this infer expense or potency? What is a "texturizing" cream or "dewy freshness?" Semanticists will tell you that these are advertising claims which carry considerable impact. Is not the word "moisturizer" possibly a misnomer? The noun "moisturizer" like "dynamiter" is an active term inferring positive ability to do something, to make something more wet. Occlusive bases, however, are passive; they merely lay upon the skin while skin processes do the "moisturizing." One of the more blatant terms is "penetrating ingredients." A skin scientist will tell you that a penetrating ingredient is one which is percutaneously absorbed, one which passes through the skin. The director of cosmetic research for a leading cosmetic firm admitted to a group of dermatologists 22 that no cosmetic product penetrates the skin and that the term "penetrates" merely means that it rubs in well and "leaves a dry, silky, velvety or even dewy (moist) feel to the skin." Furthermore, he felt that the public knew that it meant just this. One cannot help but wonder if he does not give the public credit for an inordinate amount of sophistication in deciphering cosmetic claims. One further wonders if the labeled claim of "vanishes" or "rubs in well" wouldn't tell the story a bit more succinctly. •
3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
10. 11.
12. 13.
14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20.
21.
references 1. 2.
Blank, I., "Factors which Influence the Water Content of the Stratum Corneum," J. Invest. Derm., 18,433(1952). Suskind, R., "Cutaneous Cleansing in
Kalish,
}.,
"Cosmetic
Compounding,"
'Drug and Cosmetic Ind., 116(April 1966).
22.
Steigleder, Raab, "Skin Protection Afforded by Ointments," J. Invest. Derm., 38, 3, 129(March 1962). Borata, A., Grin ell, R.N., "Experimental and Clinical Observations on Dry Skin," J. Amer. Geriatric Soc., 10, 413(May 1962). Spoor, H.}., "Management and Maintenance of Natural Skin Oil," N.Y. State J. Med., 58, 3292(1958). Weissberg, G., "Efficacy of Bath Oil in Management of Dry Skin," Clin. Med., 7, 1161(1960). Lieberman, W., "Treatment of Peri-Anal Dermatitis," Amer. J. Protology, 12, 374 (1961). Taylor, E., "Cutaneous Adsorption of Bath Oils," Arch. Derm., 87, 369(March 1963). Haensch, R., Amer. Perfumer and Cosmetics 79, 29(July 1964). Becher, P., Courtney, D.L., "A PhysicoChemical Approach to a Floating Bath Oil," Amer. Perfumer and Cosmetics, 80, 25(Nov. 1965). Bern, H., et aI, "Influence of Vitamin A on Epidermis," Am. J. Anat., 96, 419(May 1955). Montagna, W., "Penetration and Local Effect of Vitamin A on Skin of Guinea Pig," Proc. Soc. BioI. and Med., 86, 668(Aug. 1954). Mandelbaum, J., and Schlesinger, L., "Absorption of Vitamin A through Human Skin," Dermat. and Syph., 46, 431(Sept. 1942). Flesh, P., "Inhibition of Keratin Formation with Unsaturated Compounds," J. Invest. Derm., 19, 353(1952). Blank,!., "Action of Emollient Creams and their Additives," JAMA, 164, 414(May 25, 1957). Strauss, }., "Hormones in Cosmetics," JAMA 186, 759(Nov. 1963). Behrman, H.T., "Hormone Creams and Facial Skin," JAMA, ISS, 119(1954). Silson, }., "'Pregnenolone Acetate' Dermatologically Active Steroid," J. Soc. Cosmetic Chem., 13, 129 (April 1962). Sternberg, T.H., Levan, P., Wright, E.T., "Hydrating Effects of Pregnenolone Acetate on Human Skin," Curro Ther. Research, 3, 469(Nov. 1961). Lubowe, 1., "Effect of Placenta Gel Extract on Aging Skin (Non-Estrogenic)," J. Amer. Geriat. Soc., 11, 914(Sept. 1963). Goldemberg, R.L., "Cosmetic Formulating, Possible Applications in Dermatologic Practice," Arch. Derm. (Chic), 88, 627(Nov. 1963).
selection committee for •••
military section literary award the selection committee for the military section literary Onaward, which is open to all APHA members in the federal services who have contributed to pharmacy literature during 1966, are the followingCharles W. Bliven, executive secretary, American Association of Colleges of Pharmacy Charles B. Cleveland, editor, American Hospital Formulary Service Chauncey I. Cooper, dean, school of pharmacy, Howard University Edward F. Salim, director, APhA Foundation Drug Standards Laboratory
654
Journal of the AMERICAN PHARMACEUTICAL ASSOCIATION
The award, sponsored by Eli Lilly and Company and presented at the APHA annual meeting, is given for the most outstanding paper published on pharmacy in the federal government during the past year. Topics for consideration include1. Pharmaceutical practice, education or administration 2. Pharmaceutical research 3. Pharmaceutical law, or legislation, or professional regulation
Pharmacists interested in being considered for the award, which consists of a $500 honorarium and an inscribed plaque, should send six copies of their published manuscript to APHA's Division of Governmental Pharmaceutical Services, 2215 Constitution Avenue N.W., Washington, D.C. 20037.