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AORN Journal,February 1982,Vol35,No 3
Missions refIect early California Iife
M
ore than 200 years ago there wasn’t a freeway or orange grove in sight. The mountains, rugged coast, beautiful bays, and rolling hills of California were inhabited primarily by Indians. So little was known of this land that it was still shown on maps as an island. Few white men had seen this land. In 1542, Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo made the first European discovery of California. In 1579, pirate and explorer Sir Francis Drake stopped north of San Francisco to repair his ship. He claimed the land for Queen Elizabeth and optimistically named it New England. But the only English colonizing party sent to California was dispersed by the Spanish off the coast of Brazil. In 1602, a Spanish explorer SebastiAn Vizcaino discovered Monterey Bay and described it in such enthusiastic terms that future efforts to colonize California were aimed at settling this “fine sheltered harbor.” But Vizcaino’s description was so glowing that future explorers These arches grace the arcade surrounding the patio of San Juan Capistrano. California Historical Society San Francisco
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sat at the edge of the broad, open bay and failed to recognize it. California remained virtually untouched until the Spanish missionaries arrived in June 1769. Spain had dominated the New World for some time and laid claim to California, but no attempt had been made to colonize the remote land. But now, Russian fur traders and explorers were moving down along the coast, even as far as the Farallone Islands off the coast of San Francisco. When Russia declared her intention to establish colonies, the Spanish suddenly became interested in getting afirmer hold on Aka or upper California. The Spanish method of colonization combined the sword and cross. Where natives were docile, as in California, the clergy opened the frontier with a military escort for protection. There were already missions established in Baja or lower California. An expedition was sent by both land and sea from La Paz at the tip of Baja California. The land party was under the direction of Gaspar de Portolti, and the spiritual leader was Father Juniper0 Serra. What lay ahead for the expedition was scurvy, starvation, thirst, and for many, death. In the early winter of 1769, three ships left La Paz to carry supplies to San Diego, about 350 miles north. The San Antonia sailed too far
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north, but reached San Diego in 54 days. The San Carlos ran into more serious navigational troubles and took 110 days to make the trip. The San Jose, in a second attempt to reach San Diego, simply disappeared. Almost all the crew died of the dreaded sailor’s disease, scurvy. Most of the colonists were ill from scurvy and dehydration. Later in the spring two land parties set off, the second including Portola and Father Serra. They used their supplies as they went along, and when they arrived in San Diego, they were hungry, ill, and discouraged. Of the 219 who had left La Paz, only half were left. The others had died or deserted. But on July 3, 1769, Father Serra raised a cross on the site of the first mission in Alta California. As construction began, Portola headed north to look for the harbor at Monterey. Starving and lost most of the time, the party took 38 days to reach the bay but did not recognize it from Vizcaino’s description of a “fine sheltered port.” The party went farther north and did find a good port, which they named San Francisco. At Monterey, Portolti erected a cross inscribed, “the overland expedition from San Diego returned from this place . . . starving.” They returned to San Diego, eating their pack animals on the way and smelling strongly of mule when they arrived.
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They found the colony in poor condition with the men ill and near starvation. Dependent on supplies from Mexico, the colony waited months for the supply ship. Portolaordered the project abandoned, but in answer to the missionaries' prayers, the ship arrived on the very eve of their departure. In the spring, Portolh again went to seek Monterey and was convinced that it was the site they found earlier. Father Serra came by ship. On June 3, 1770, Father Serra consecrated the new mission site for San Carlos Borromeo with the Indians looking on from the woods in wonderment. But two missions alone, some 650 miles apart, could not colonize the land. A chain of missions was started that were a day's march apart-or some 30 miles. By 1823, there were 20 missions between San Diego and San Francisco. What was mission life like? Conditions were hard, and in the early days the colonists struggled against starvation and disease. They were dependent on ships from Mexico for supplies, ships that often didn't arrive and could only carry supplies for several months. In a land that now supplies much of the country with fruits and vegetables, scurvy was prevalent. The colonists did not know that vitamin C from fresh fruits and vegetables would cure it.
The colonists were missionaries or soldiers, not agriculturists. They were not experienced at cultivating the land. Nor were the Indians, who lived off the land on game, berries, nuts, and shellfish. They had no need to grow food. Primitive people, the California Indians were still living in the Stone Age. They had no written language, no political organization, and lived an indolent life. But they were fairly healthy until the white man brought measles, chicken pox, and other diseases that killed them by the hundreds. The Indians were to live at the missions. The missionaries attracted them with gifts of food, clothing, and bright beads. Once they consented to join the community, they could not leave without permission and were subject to strict discipline. They were expected to work, the men tilling the fields, making adobe bricks, or handicrafts. The women wove cloth, ground meal, and carded wool. But to break the monotony, feasts were celebrated enthusiastically . The missions were not designed to go on forever. According to the Spanish colonization plan, they were to be turned over to the native inhabitants after ten years. But in California, the Indians were too primitive to be brought into the 18th century so quickly. The missions were ordered to secularize in the 1830s. At this After the missions were secularized in the 1830s, they went into private use. When this photograph of Mission Dolores (San Francisco de Asis) was taken in 1865, it was occupied b y a print shop and the Mansion House, a tavern with a reputation for its milk punch. California Historical Society San Francisco
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Missions to visit in the Los Angeles area
Mission San Fernando Rey de Espana, 15151 San Fernando Mission Blvd, Mission Hills, 91345 (213) 361-0168. In a beautiful garden setting, this mission has been completely restored. It was the 17th mission, built in 1797. Of particular interest is the large Convento, an adobe building 243 feet long and 50 feet wide bordered by a 19-arch colonnade. The mission was damaged by the 1812 earthquake and later by misuse and vandals. Restoration began in 1916 when local citizens raised money by selling 6,000 candles at a dollar each. They then lit the candles and led a processional through the arches. Open 9:30 am to 4 pm daily. Mission San Gabriel Archangel, 537 W Mission Dr, San Gabriel 91776 (213) 282-5191. The fourth mission, it was situated on three well-traveled trails, two
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from Mexico to Alta California, and later, one from the East Coast. The 1805 church, grounds, and museum present one of the finest examples of early California life. Known as the ”Queen of the Missions” because of its prosperity in a fertile valley, the mission was famous for its wines, soap-making, and tallow-rendering. Damaged by the 1812 earthquake, the church was restored with a bell tower with three rows of arched openings for the bells. Open 9:30 am to 4 pm daily. Mission San Juan Capistrano, Ortega Highway at Camino Capistrano, San Juan Capistrano 92675 (714) 493-1 111. The seventh mission, founded by Father Serra in 1776, is home of the swallows that each spring return on St Joseph’s Day, March 19, to rebuild their mud nests. The first little church built here is called “Father Serra’s
AORN Journal,February 1982, Val 35, No 3
San Francisco
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\I\ Church" because it is the only one still standing where he is known to have said mass. A larger, elaborate church was completed in 1806. It took nine years to build the cathedral-like church with stones carried from the quarry some six miles away. A bell tower with four bells reached 120 feet. But only six years later, in December, as the bells began to ring for the next mass, the tower swayed in warning of an earthquake. The vault of the church split and the concrete ceiling fell on the kneeling congregation. Although some who obeyed the father's beckoning escaped, forty were killed by the falling rubble, including the two boys who were ringing the bells. Today, the mission includes a museum, gardens, and diorama of early mission life. Open 7 am to 5 pm daily.
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Famed for its star window, the Carmel Mission (San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo) was the home of Father Serra. Today, . .people . gather for services offered in the mission. time, 31,000 Christianized Indians lived in the 21 missions, under the control of 60 padres and 300 soldiers. Under Spanish law, missions were to be replaced by pueblos. The Church retained the church and priests’ gardens and quarters. Land was divided three ways-one part for common pastures and agriculture, part for a town, and part for individual plots for the Indians. It seemed like a benevolent plan, and it had worked well in other colonies. But the Indians were not capable of handling their new property, and it quickly disappeared into private hands. The missions fell into disrepair. In 1810, New Spain had broken from the mother country, and at the end of the Mexican-American War in 1848, California was ceded to the United States. In 1849, gold was discovered, and the rush was on. In the early 19OOs, the missions became tourist attractions, and there was growing interest in their restoration. Many of the earlier
attempts at restoration in the late 1800s were badly done and sometimes the buildings were modernized. But the later restorations in this century have been done with scientific accuracy, restoring the buildings to their original condition as indicated by records and old photographs. The mission days of California can be relived by visits to the 21 missions strung along El Camino Real, or The Royal Road, which has linked the missions since the 18th century. Two or three days spent motoring along the California coast allows for leisurely visits. The most interesting section is the 240 miles of El Camino Real between Santa Barbara and Monterey. But even Congress goers who cannot make this trip will get a taste of the missions. The California missions will set the stage for the opening session. A mission backdrop, tolling bells, and strolling monks will bring the missions to Congress.
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