- Email: [email protected]
On the overturning of gravity waves
OLR t 1981) 28 (t2)
A. Physical Oceanography
generated sea are given with descriptions of the associated atmospherics. The joint probability distribution of significant wave height and average zero-crossing period is used to characterize the region's wave climate. Dept. of Phys., Univ. of Auckland, Private Bag, Auckland, New Zealand. 81:6A.A.A. Dykhan, B.D. et al., 1981. First recording of a tsunami in the ocean (February 23, 1980 near the south Kurii Islands). Dokl. Akad. Nauk SSSR, 257(5): 1088-1092. (In Russian.) 81:6445 Ezraty, R. and A. Cavani6, 1981. Evaluation of wave direction measurements using a pitch and roll buoy. Oceanologica Acta, 4(2):139-149. (In French, English abstract.) Recently manufactured sensors for pitch, roll, heave and direction give the moored buoy large autonomy; validity of measurements obtained with the instrument during the Marsen (North Sea) experiment is assessed. Centre Oceanol. de Bretagne, B.P. No. 337, 29273 Brest, Cedex, France. (smf) 81:6446
Grimshaw, R., 1981. Slowly varying solitary waves in deep fluids. Proc. R. Soe., Lond., (A)376(1765): 319-332. Applying multiple scaling, an asymptotic solution is obtained for the deep fluid equation (Davis and Acrivos, 1967; Benjamin, 1967; Ono, 1975). 'Results are interpreted from conservation laws.' Damping due to friction or the radiation of internal gravity waves is considered. Dept. of Math., Univ. of Melbourne, Parkville, Vict. 3052, Australia. (izs) 81:6447
Kosuge, Susumu and Akira Saito, 1981. A study of harbor oscillations in Shimizu Harbor [Japan]. J. Fac. mar. Sci. Technol., Tokai Univ., 14:275~286.
(In Japanese, English abstract.)
857
Controversies over 'the momentum' of waves have repeatedly wasted the time of physicists for over half a century. Persistence of the controversies is surprising, since regardless of whether classical or quantum dynamics is used, the facts of the matter are simple and unequivocal, are well checked by laboratory experiment, are clearly explained in several published papers, and on the theoretical side can easily be verified by straightforward calculations. They are illustrated here by some simple, classical examples involving acoustic and gravity waves. Dept. of Appl. Math., Univ. of Cambridge, UK. 81:6450
Miles, J.W., 1981. The Korteweg-de Vries equation: a historical essay. J. Fluid Mech., 106:131-147. The KdV equation is generally attributed to Korteweg and de Vries (1895). Actually, it first appeared explicitly in de Vries's thesis (1894), but had also appeared implicitly in an 1872 paper by Boussinesq. Here, the equation's recent renaissance is traced through the work of Fermi, Pasta and Ulam; Zabusky and Kruskal; and Gardner et al., particularly in terms of the discovery of solitons and the development of inverse scattering theory. Inst. of Geophys. and Planetary Phys., Univ. Calif., La Jolla, Calif. 92093, USA. (fcs) 81:6451
Phillips, O.M., 1981. Wave interactions---the evolution of an idea. J. Fluid Mech., 106:215-227. This essay gives a personal and possibly incomplete history of the way in which the simple idea of weak resonant wave interactions grew to find application to a variety of phenomena in several contexts, involving incremental steps by many people in the past 20 years and gaining simplicity with maturity. The final stage seems to be approaching; limits of usefulness of the idea begin to become apparent. Dept. of Earth and Plan. Sci., Johns Hopkins Univ., Baltimore, Md. 21218, USA.
81:6448 Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1981. On the overturning of gravity waves. Proc. R. Soc., Lond., (A)376 (1766):377-400.
81:6452 Satomura, Takehiko, 1981. An investigation of shear instability in shallow water, d. met. Soc. Japan, (II)59(1): 148-167; 168-171.
Simple, approximate, spatiotemporally intermediate solutions are obtained for the overturning process and the development of cusps. Dept. of Appl. Math. and Theoretical Phys., Silver St., Cambridge CB3 9EW, UK. (izs)
The first paper applies linear analysis to shear instabilities of 2 basic flows (plane Couette flow bounded on both sides; unbounded on 1 side), examines gravity wave excitation, and compares results with those of Blumen et al. (1975). The second paper presents 'eigenvalues for a piecewiselinear shear flow unbounded on both sides' and compares results with those of Drazin and Davey (1977). Geophys. Inst., Univ. of Tokyo, Japan. (izs)
81:6449
Mclntyre, M.E., 1981. On the 'wave momentum' myth. J. Fluid Mech., 106:331-347.
A. Physical Oceanography
generated sea are given with descriptions of the associated atmospherics. The joint probability distribution of significant wave height and average zero-crossing period is used to characterize the region's wave climate. Dept. of Phys., Univ. of Auckland, Private Bag, Auckland, New Zealand. 81:6A.A.A. Dykhan, B.D. et al., 1981. First recording of a tsunami in the ocean (February 23, 1980 near the south Kurii Islands). Dokl. Akad. Nauk SSSR, 257(5): 1088-1092. (In Russian.) 81:6445 Ezraty, R. and A. Cavani6, 1981. Evaluation of wave direction measurements using a pitch and roll buoy. Oceanologica Acta, 4(2):139-149. (In French, English abstract.) Recently manufactured sensors for pitch, roll, heave and direction give the moored buoy large autonomy; validity of measurements obtained with the instrument during the Marsen (North Sea) experiment is assessed. Centre Oceanol. de Bretagne, B.P. No. 337, 29273 Brest, Cedex, France. (smf) 81:6446
Grimshaw, R., 1981. Slowly varying solitary waves in deep fluids. Proc. R. Soe., Lond., (A)376(1765): 319-332. Applying multiple scaling, an asymptotic solution is obtained for the deep fluid equation (Davis and Acrivos, 1967; Benjamin, 1967; Ono, 1975). 'Results are interpreted from conservation laws.' Damping due to friction or the radiation of internal gravity waves is considered. Dept. of Math., Univ. of Melbourne, Parkville, Vict. 3052, Australia. (izs) 81:6447
Kosuge, Susumu and Akira Saito, 1981. A study of harbor oscillations in Shimizu Harbor [Japan]. J. Fac. mar. Sci. Technol., Tokai Univ., 14:275~286.
(In Japanese, English abstract.)
857
Controversies over 'the momentum' of waves have repeatedly wasted the time of physicists for over half a century. Persistence of the controversies is surprising, since regardless of whether classical or quantum dynamics is used, the facts of the matter are simple and unequivocal, are well checked by laboratory experiment, are clearly explained in several published papers, and on the theoretical side can easily be verified by straightforward calculations. They are illustrated here by some simple, classical examples involving acoustic and gravity waves. Dept. of Appl. Math., Univ. of Cambridge, UK. 81:6450
Miles, J.W., 1981. The Korteweg-de Vries equation: a historical essay. J. Fluid Mech., 106:131-147. The KdV equation is generally attributed to Korteweg and de Vries (1895). Actually, it first appeared explicitly in de Vries's thesis (1894), but had also appeared implicitly in an 1872 paper by Boussinesq. Here, the equation's recent renaissance is traced through the work of Fermi, Pasta and Ulam; Zabusky and Kruskal; and Gardner et al., particularly in terms of the discovery of solitons and the development of inverse scattering theory. Inst. of Geophys. and Planetary Phys., Univ. Calif., La Jolla, Calif. 92093, USA. (fcs) 81:6451
Phillips, O.M., 1981. Wave interactions---the evolution of an idea. J. Fluid Mech., 106:215-227. This essay gives a personal and possibly incomplete history of the way in which the simple idea of weak resonant wave interactions grew to find application to a variety of phenomena in several contexts, involving incremental steps by many people in the past 20 years and gaining simplicity with maturity. The final stage seems to be approaching; limits of usefulness of the idea begin to become apparent. Dept. of Earth and Plan. Sci., Johns Hopkins Univ., Baltimore, Md. 21218, USA.
81:6448 Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1981. On the overturning of gravity waves. Proc. R. Soc., Lond., (A)376 (1766):377-400.
81:6452 Satomura, Takehiko, 1981. An investigation of shear instability in shallow water, d. met. Soc. Japan, (II)59(1): 148-167; 168-171.
Simple, approximate, spatiotemporally intermediate solutions are obtained for the overturning process and the development of cusps. Dept. of Appl. Math. and Theoretical Phys., Silver St., Cambridge CB3 9EW, UK. (izs)
The first paper applies linear analysis to shear instabilities of 2 basic flows (plane Couette flow bounded on both sides; unbounded on 1 side), examines gravity wave excitation, and compares results with those of Blumen et al. (1975). The second paper presents 'eigenvalues for a piecewiselinear shear flow unbounded on both sides' and compares results with those of Drazin and Davey (1977). Geophys. Inst., Univ. of Tokyo, Japan. (izs)
81:6449
Mclntyre, M.E., 1981. On the 'wave momentum' myth. J. Fluid Mech., 106:331-347.