658
Oceanographic Abstracts
BERNARD P., 1963. Effects microseismsques de la tempete du ler decembre 1959. Cah. Ocdanogr., 15 (2): 88-94. Dans los stations cgti~res d~ nous 6tudions cette teml~te, c'est une explication par la houle locale qui pr6vaut pour los micros6ismes enregistr6s, tandis qu'~ St. Maur, los maximums du 30 novembre et du ler d/x:embre (celul-ci en courte l~riode) ne sont pas attribuables ~ des ph6nomt~nes c6tiers. La proximit(: et la rapidit6 de d(:placement du centre dEpressionnalre ont rendu ce cas compliqu6, c'est un de ceux qu'il serait plus facile d'6tudier si l'on disposait d'un plus grand nombre de stations munies d'appareils semblables : une station clans le Finist~re par exemple nous aurait peut-~tre permis de prt~senter autrement que comme une hypoth~se la double propagation de la houle, qui rend compte de certains d6tails de la courbe des amplitudes, mais qui ne pourrait 8tre hien ~tablie que par une r6petition des particularit~s observ~es. BmWEt.L R. G. S. and J. S. GROOm, 1963. A note on the greatly reduced ability of Fucus vesiculosus to absorb or evolve COz when not submerged. Canad. J. Bot., 41 (2): 179-182. The rockweed, F. vesiculosus, inhabits the littoral zone and is exposed for a large part of the time between tides. It is shown that this weed fixes or evolves CO~ at a greatly reduced rate when exposed, even if its surface is wet and the atmosphere surrounding it is saturated with water. BRAARUD T., 1962. Species distribution in marine phytoplankton J. Oceanogr. Soc., Jap., 20th Ann. VoI.: 628-649. The regional and seasonal distribution of fourteen marine phytoplankton species is discussed a~:.h~st the background of environmental and autecological data. A review of some of the factors in~uencing specific distribution in holo- and meroplanktonic forms is presented on the basis of these examples. Special attention is paid to flotation capacity, temperature and salinity range, and introduction of aUochthonous initial populations. In addition, consideration is made of recent suggestions that particular nutrient requirements and the ability to survive extended periods in darkness may also be essential factors. Further experimental studies on nutrition, life cycle, and flotation capacity in holo- and meroplanktonic forms are required in order to explain the great diversity in distribution. BRUUN P., 1963. Longshore currents and longshore troughs. J. Geophys. Res., 68 (4): 1065-1078 This paper deals with longshore current theories. It gives a brief review of breaking waves including theoretical, laboratory, and field results. The longshore current theory based on the momentum inflow over a uniformly sloping beach and bottom is discussed, with special reference to the factor of friction. Two new longshore current theories, both based on the continuity principle, are also discussed. In one theory, recognized as the rip current approach, it is assumed that water thrown in by breaking waves runs seaward in rip currents, and this theory will perhaps be valid for profiles with well-developed bars and waves approaching the shore almost perpendicularly. In the other theory, the water from a wave which breaks under an angle with the bar flows in with a certain time lag along the bar. This apparently creates a longshore head difference and, therefore, a longshore current as well. The water may return to sea uniformly as undertow or in rip currents. This theory is particularly valid for waves breaking at a certain angle with the bar. In both cases, the momentum in the breaking waves is ignored because field observations show that in a well-developed bar profile most of the momentum has disappeared inside the bar following the breaking of the wave. Examples of computation of current velocities are given. CASTANHO J. P., 1962. M~thodos empregados na defesa contra a erosio costeira. Lab. Nac.
Engenhara Cir., Mem., Lisbon, No. 196:22 pp.
The principal methods used in protection against coastal erosion as described in this article are: groins, detached breakwaters, sea walls, revetements and artificial feeding of'beaches. Also mentioned are the principal characteristics of protective construction, their hydraulic behaviour, the most usual types of construction and limitations as to their use. ClmMAK J. E., 1963. Lagrangian similarity hypothesis applied to diffusion in turbulent shear flow.
J. Fluid Mech., 15 (1): 49-64. The concept suggested by Batchelor that motion of a marked particle in turbulent shear flow may be similar at stations downstream from the point of release is applied to a variety of diffusion data obtained in the laboratory and in the surface layer of the atmosphere. Two types of shear flow parallel to a plane solid boundary are considered. In the first case mean velocity is a linear function of log z (neutral boundary layer) and in the second case the mean velocity is slightly perturbed from the logarithmic relationship by temperature variation in the z-direction (diabatic boun~iary layer). Besides the parameters introduced in previous applications of the Lagrangian similarity hypothesis to turbulent diffusion, the ratio of source height to roughness length h/zo is shown to be of major importance. Predictions of the variation of maximum ground-level concentration for continuous point and line sources and the variation of plume width for a continuous point source with distance downstream from the source agree with the assorted data remarkably well for a range of length scales extending over three orders of magnitude. It is concluded that results from application of the Lagrangian similarity hypothesis are significant for the laboratory modelling of diffusion in the atmospheric surface layer.