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Comparison of a multiproduct cosmetic regimen versus 2% hydroquinone for improving the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation in Chinese subjects
P807
P805
Comparison of a multiproduct cosmetic regimen versus 2% hydroquinone for improving the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation in Chinese subjects Gang Deng, PhD, Procter & Gamble Technology Company, Beijing, China; Joseph Kaczvinsky, PhD, The Procter and Gamble Company, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Yan Wu, MD, Peking Unversity First Hospital, Beijing, China; Ziyi Wang, Procter & Gamble Technology Company, Beijing, China Background: Light and even facial skin tone is a key patient concern in China. There, as elsewhere, hydroquinone is the treatment most prescribed by dermatologists to improve the appearance of skin hyperpigmentation. However, the use of hydroquinone can cause irritation and other side effects in some patients. A cosmetic regimen focused on improving hyperpigmentation was recently developed, including products containing niacinamide, n-acetyl-glucosamine, hexamidine, and undecylenoyl phenylalanine. To assess its potential as an alternative treatment for hyperpigmentation, the efficacy and tolerance of this regimen relative to hydroquinone was evaluated in Chinese subjects in Beijing. Objective: To compare the efficacy of the cosmetic tone regimen (CTR) versus 2% hydroquinone (HQ) treatment for reduction in thr appearance of hyperpigmented facial spots and improvement in overall skin tone. A comparison of the relative skin tolerance of the two treatments was a second objective. Method: One hundred sixty-one Chinese female subjects with facial hyperpigmentation were treated for 12 weeks with either the four product CTR or 2% HQ. The CTR consisted of two products used on the entire face in the morning and evening, a daytime moisturizing sunscreen (SPF 30) and a targeted product used twice a day on hyperpigmented facial spots. HQ was used on hyperpigmented facial spots in the evening, with subjects using an SPF 30 moisturizing sunscreen in the morning. Digital images of subjects were taken at baseline and after 2, 4, 8 and 12 weeks of treatment. Cross-polarized and melanin-specific images were analyzed for changes in area of hyperpigmented spots, L*a*b* values and melanin distribution. Treatment tolerance was assessed via investigator irritation grading and by changes in skin barrier function (trans-epidermal water loss [TEWL]). Results: Treatment with either the CTR or HQ significantly (P \.05) reduced the area of pigmented, melanin-related spots, lightened skin and improved skin tone evenness relative to baseline over the entire study period. Skin yellowness was significantly reduced by both treatments after 8 weeks. There were no significant differences in improvement between the two treatments for any of these parameters. Irritation from the two treatments was similar and the CTR significantly reduced facial skin TEWL relative to HQ after 4 weeks’ treatment (P \.05). Conclusion: Overall, the observed efficacy and tolerance of the two treatments were comparable. Commercial support: Research was fully supported by the Procter and Gamble Company.
P806 The use of topically dissolved oxygen as a pluripotent raw material ingredient for medical aesthetic products Lawrence Rheins, PhD, Aria Aesthetics, Scottsdale, AZ, United States The second decade of the 21st century will continue to see the development of innovative topical medical aesthetic products to address the growing older ‘‘baby boomer’’ population. Continued optimization/innovation of minimal to moderate invasive cosmetic procedures will continue, but for many aging patients comorbidities will limit the utility of these procedural technologies. As a result, safe and efficacious topical approaches for cosmesis treatments will remain a mainstay of aesthetic medicine. Patient desire for the incorporation of natural ingredients must be considered in these development strategies. The utilization of topically dissolvable oxygen (TDO) meets the needs of both the patient and the health care provider. There remains a growing interest in topical oxygen for a variety of common dermatologic conditions, with antiinflammatory, antimicrobial, and extracelluar matrix (ECM) as only a few reported experimental effects. TDO provides a pluripotent mechanistic approach (eg, cellular energy, antiinflammationin, antimicrobial, protein turn-over effects, and cell to cell communication) to address photodamage and other conditions associated with extrinsic aging. TDO is safe, and is not associated with the other attendant issues of oxygen stability or release that were associated with earlier perfluorcarbon oxygen technologies. Historically, hyperbaric oxygen (HBO) has and continues to serve as a vital treatment modality in chronic wound care but is impractical for cosmesis. The role of TDO in other epicutaneous applications including cosmetic treatments will be discussed here. A polyacrylate hydrophilic polymer impregnated with oxygen as a medical device (FDA 510(k) clearance, 09/19/08) when applied in vitro to intermediate thickness viable donor skin resulted in rapid oxygen penetration extending beyound 600 microns, a depth that had not previously been reported in the literature. When compared to oxygen alone as a control under standard atmospheric pressure there was an 32% increase in treatment vs control (P \.05). The oxygenation effect was still evident at 90 minutes. In addition, in vitro dermal fibroblast cell cultures under hypoxic conditions revealed long term (144-hour) protection of fibroblast metabolism, including cell viability and protein content with continuous oxygen admistration. The TDO-treated group showed an increase in fibroblast viability (92% greater than hypoxic cells and 28% greater than normoxic cells [P \.001]). The enzymatic release of the TDO and desired epidermal/dermal penetration can be controlled with this technology. This is important, when evaluating for example, the Grenz zone as a microanatomic marker for changes in collagen synthesis associated with cosmetic reparative approaches for aging skin. The reliability of the H202/catalyst compartmentalization provides multiple/optimal approaches for cosmetic products (eg, facial masks), with continuous oxygen release. The potential mechanism(s) of action that are associated with continuous topical oxygen as a micronutrient will be discussed.
The ubiquitin-proteasome system is an essential mechanism for maintaining cell integrity because of its role in eliminating abnormal and damaged cell proteins. Through aging, the synthesis and activity of this system decrease, leading to the accumulation of damaged proteins that impair cell function, which accelerates aging. In this study, we evaluated the beneficial effects of activating the ubiquitinproteasome system, using a previously described inducer (IV08.013). Twelve volunteers participated in this double-blind study. They applied, twice a day, the inducer-containing cream, or placebo, on a defined zone of the thigh for a week, followed by full solar spectrum irradiation of 2 MED. Volunteers continued to apply creams for 3 more weeks. Skin condition was evaluated by TEWL, in vivo confocal microscopy (vivascope) assessment, and by clinical examination. From day 8 on the induced side, TEWL studies revealed a significant decrease of TEWL measures (P ¼ .0323), indicating better barrier function. Interestingly, this effect was also seen after UV stress. TEWL was significantly reduced on the irradiated-induced side (P ¼.0113) at day 16 and (P ¼.0225) at day 23, suggesting significant UV protection of epidermal functions and integrity on the ubiquitin-proteasome activated side. Vivascope study revealed that UV damage was remarkably reduced on the induced side at all time points, as revealed by stratum corneum thickness and stratum granulosum cell shape and morphology. Observation and quantification of sunburn cells showed significant reduction on the induced side, and similar results were obtained with other signs of UV damage, such as vacuoles and edema, which were significantly reduced. Clinical examination revealed a significant increase in the healthy appearance of the skin, and hydration and radiance, which were visible after 2 weeks of study on 83% of volunteers. These results confirm the ubiquitin-proteasome system’s key protective roles in skin biology and photoaging.
Commercial support: 75% Aria Aesthetics Inc, 25% I-Flow Corporation.
Commercial support: None identified.
AB20
J AM ACAD DERMATOL
P808 The activation of the ubiquitin-proteasome system protects significantly from UV damage in vivo study Claude Dal Farra, PhD, ISP Corporate Research Center, Wayne, NJ, United States; Catherine Gondran, MBA, Vincience ISP Global Skin Research Center, Sophia Antipolis, Alpes Maritimes, France; Gilles Oberto, MBA, Vincience ISP Global Skin Research Center, Sophia Antipolis, Alpes Maritimes, France; Jean-Marie Botto, PhD, Vincience ISP Global Skin Research Center, Sophia Antipolis, Alpes Maritimes, France; Nouha Domloge, MD, Vincience ISP Global Skin Research Center, Sophia Antipolis, Alpes Maritimes, France
MARCH 2010
P805
Comparison of a multiproduct cosmetic regimen versus 2% hydroquinone for improving the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation in Chinese subjects Gang Deng, PhD, Procter & Gamble Technology Company, Beijing, China; Joseph Kaczvinsky, PhD, The Procter and Gamble Company, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Yan Wu, MD, Peking Unversity First Hospital, Beijing, China; Ziyi Wang, Procter & Gamble Technology Company, Beijing, China Background: Light and even facial skin tone is a key patient concern in China. There, as elsewhere, hydroquinone is the treatment most prescribed by dermatologists to improve the appearance of skin hyperpigmentation. However, the use of hydroquinone can cause irritation and other side effects in some patients. A cosmetic regimen focused on improving hyperpigmentation was recently developed, including products containing niacinamide, n-acetyl-glucosamine, hexamidine, and undecylenoyl phenylalanine. To assess its potential as an alternative treatment for hyperpigmentation, the efficacy and tolerance of this regimen relative to hydroquinone was evaluated in Chinese subjects in Beijing. Objective: To compare the efficacy of the cosmetic tone regimen (CTR) versus 2% hydroquinone (HQ) treatment for reduction in thr appearance of hyperpigmented facial spots and improvement in overall skin tone. A comparison of the relative skin tolerance of the two treatments was a second objective. Method: One hundred sixty-one Chinese female subjects with facial hyperpigmentation were treated for 12 weeks with either the four product CTR or 2% HQ. The CTR consisted of two products used on the entire face in the morning and evening, a daytime moisturizing sunscreen (SPF 30) and a targeted product used twice a day on hyperpigmented facial spots. HQ was used on hyperpigmented facial spots in the evening, with subjects using an SPF 30 moisturizing sunscreen in the morning. Digital images of subjects were taken at baseline and after 2, 4, 8 and 12 weeks of treatment. Cross-polarized and melanin-specific images were analyzed for changes in area of hyperpigmented spots, L*a*b* values and melanin distribution. Treatment tolerance was assessed via investigator irritation grading and by changes in skin barrier function (trans-epidermal water loss [TEWL]). Results: Treatment with either the CTR or HQ significantly (P \.05) reduced the area of pigmented, melanin-related spots, lightened skin and improved skin tone evenness relative to baseline over the entire study period. Skin yellowness was significantly reduced by both treatments after 8 weeks. There were no significant differences in improvement between the two treatments for any of these parameters. Irritation from the two treatments was similar and the CTR significantly reduced facial skin TEWL relative to HQ after 4 weeks’ treatment (P \.05). Conclusion: Overall, the observed efficacy and tolerance of the two treatments were comparable. Commercial support: Research was fully supported by the Procter and Gamble Company.
P806 The use of topically dissolved oxygen as a pluripotent raw material ingredient for medical aesthetic products Lawrence Rheins, PhD, Aria Aesthetics, Scottsdale, AZ, United States The second decade of the 21st century will continue to see the development of innovative topical medical aesthetic products to address the growing older ‘‘baby boomer’’ population. Continued optimization/innovation of minimal to moderate invasive cosmetic procedures will continue, but for many aging patients comorbidities will limit the utility of these procedural technologies. As a result, safe and efficacious topical approaches for cosmesis treatments will remain a mainstay of aesthetic medicine. Patient desire for the incorporation of natural ingredients must be considered in these development strategies. The utilization of topically dissolvable oxygen (TDO) meets the needs of both the patient and the health care provider. There remains a growing interest in topical oxygen for a variety of common dermatologic conditions, with antiinflammatory, antimicrobial, and extracelluar matrix (ECM) as only a few reported experimental effects. TDO provides a pluripotent mechanistic approach (eg, cellular energy, antiinflammationin, antimicrobial, protein turn-over effects, and cell to cell communication) to address photodamage and other conditions associated with extrinsic aging. TDO is safe, and is not associated with the other attendant issues of oxygen stability or release that were associated with earlier perfluorcarbon oxygen technologies. Historically, hyperbaric oxygen (HBO) has and continues to serve as a vital treatment modality in chronic wound care but is impractical for cosmesis. The role of TDO in other epicutaneous applications including cosmetic treatments will be discussed here. A polyacrylate hydrophilic polymer impregnated with oxygen as a medical device (FDA 510(k) clearance, 09/19/08) when applied in vitro to intermediate thickness viable donor skin resulted in rapid oxygen penetration extending beyound 600 microns, a depth that had not previously been reported in the literature. When compared to oxygen alone as a control under standard atmospheric pressure there was an 32% increase in treatment vs control (P \.05). The oxygenation effect was still evident at 90 minutes. In addition, in vitro dermal fibroblast cell cultures under hypoxic conditions revealed long term (144-hour) protection of fibroblast metabolism, including cell viability and protein content with continuous oxygen admistration. The TDO-treated group showed an increase in fibroblast viability (92% greater than hypoxic cells and 28% greater than normoxic cells [P \.001]). The enzymatic release of the TDO and desired epidermal/dermal penetration can be controlled with this technology. This is important, when evaluating for example, the Grenz zone as a microanatomic marker for changes in collagen synthesis associated with cosmetic reparative approaches for aging skin. The reliability of the H202/catalyst compartmentalization provides multiple/optimal approaches for cosmetic products (eg, facial masks), with continuous oxygen release. The potential mechanism(s) of action that are associated with continuous topical oxygen as a micronutrient will be discussed.
The ubiquitin-proteasome system is an essential mechanism for maintaining cell integrity because of its role in eliminating abnormal and damaged cell proteins. Through aging, the synthesis and activity of this system decrease, leading to the accumulation of damaged proteins that impair cell function, which accelerates aging. In this study, we evaluated the beneficial effects of activating the ubiquitinproteasome system, using a previously described inducer (IV08.013). Twelve volunteers participated in this double-blind study. They applied, twice a day, the inducer-containing cream, or placebo, on a defined zone of the thigh for a week, followed by full solar spectrum irradiation of 2 MED. Volunteers continued to apply creams for 3 more weeks. Skin condition was evaluated by TEWL, in vivo confocal microscopy (vivascope) assessment, and by clinical examination. From day 8 on the induced side, TEWL studies revealed a significant decrease of TEWL measures (P ¼ .0323), indicating better barrier function. Interestingly, this effect was also seen after UV stress. TEWL was significantly reduced on the irradiated-induced side (P ¼.0113) at day 16 and (P ¼.0225) at day 23, suggesting significant UV protection of epidermal functions and integrity on the ubiquitin-proteasome activated side. Vivascope study revealed that UV damage was remarkably reduced on the induced side at all time points, as revealed by stratum corneum thickness and stratum granulosum cell shape and morphology. Observation and quantification of sunburn cells showed significant reduction on the induced side, and similar results were obtained with other signs of UV damage, such as vacuoles and edema, which were significantly reduced. Clinical examination revealed a significant increase in the healthy appearance of the skin, and hydration and radiance, which were visible after 2 weeks of study on 83% of volunteers. These results confirm the ubiquitin-proteasome system’s key protective roles in skin biology and photoaging.
Commercial support: 75% Aria Aesthetics Inc, 25% I-Flow Corporation.
Commercial support: None identified.
AB20
J AM ACAD DERMATOL
P808 The activation of the ubiquitin-proteasome system protects significantly from UV damage in vivo study Claude Dal Farra, PhD, ISP Corporate Research Center, Wayne, NJ, United States; Catherine Gondran, MBA, Vincience ISP Global Skin Research Center, Sophia Antipolis, Alpes Maritimes, France; Gilles Oberto, MBA, Vincience ISP Global Skin Research Center, Sophia Antipolis, Alpes Maritimes, France; Jean-Marie Botto, PhD, Vincience ISP Global Skin Research Center, Sophia Antipolis, Alpes Maritimes, France; Nouha Domloge, MD, Vincience ISP Global Skin Research Center, Sophia Antipolis, Alpes Maritimes, France
MARCH 2010