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Future Outlooks: Nordic Gastronomy in Food Marketing and Catering
CHAPTER 11
Future Outlooks: Nordic Gastronomy in Food Marketing and Catering Tino Bech-Larsen, Trine Mørk, Lise Bundgaard The MAPP Centre, Department of Management, Aarhus University, Aarhus, Denmark
11.1 INTRODUCTION New Nordic Cuisine was conceived in November 2004, when food professionals from the Nordic countries published the “Ny Nordisk Mad” manifesto (Meyer, Mithril, & Blauert, 2010). The willingness of private and public (e.g., the Nordic Council) foundations to support the idea enabled the opening of the Nordic Food Lab, which focus on, among other issues, the application of NNC principles to school meals (Andersen et al., 2016) as well as on the integration of uncommon foods, such as fermented fish and insects, into the Nordic diet (Mouritsen, Duelund, Calleja, & Frøst, 2017). These activities, and in particular the success of NOMA in Copenhagen (awarded “best restaurant in the world” in 2010, 2011, 2012, and 2014), led to the opening of NNC restaurants in other Nordic cities, as well as in New York and other megacities. In the Nordic region itself, NNC has stimulated the branding of capitals and large cities (Ooi & Strandgaard, 2017) as well as the development of local food products and tourism (Manniche & Sæther, 2017). These developments are also reflected in the introduction of the Nordic Michelin guide (Michelin, 2018), which lists fine-dining restaurants from large and small cities in all five Nordic countries. Here, however, we want to discuss whether and how the NNC principles may be advanced to create value for the customers of a broader set of food production and catering companies. We first discuss the drivers behind the NNC value propositions, and then we describe five future scenarios for NNC; finally, we identify a set of business opportunities for the food and catering industries.1 According to Day and Wensley (1988) the creation of value propositions depends on the simultaneous employment of the principles and core competencies of a business initiative. Hence the potential of NNC to grow outside its fine-dining setting depends on whether stakeholders in the food processing, catering, and tourism industries perceive the NNC principles and core competencies as relevant for the future of their businesses. Thus our discussion of the prospects and business opportunities for Nordic food are based on a 1
This chapter is partly based on Bech-Larsen, Mørk, and Kolle (2016).
Nutritional and Health Aspects of Food in Nordic Countries https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-809416-7.00011-1
© 2018 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
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review of publications related to NNC principles and competencies, as well as on interviews with large and small food processing companies, retailers, mainstream restaurants, and other tourism sector stakeholders.
11.2 NNC PRINCIPLES AND COMPETENCIES NNC is an expression of the four principles of freshness, purity, simplicity, and ethics associated with the Nordic Region (Meyer et al., 2010). Furthermore, it is stressed that NNC must interpret and implement these four principles to unite gustatory quality with animal welfare, sustainability, health, innovativeness, and inspiration from other culinary traditions. It is important to note that the NNC manifesto (Meyer et al., 2010) explicitly states that NNC practitioners must not only comply with the NNC principles, but also develop and advocate them in an open and undogmatic way. Thus the manifesto urge consumers, food artisans, farmers, fishermen, small and large food processing companies, retailers, teachers, researchers, politicians, and public authorities to cooperate and take part in the development of NNC “for the benefit and joy of everybody in the Nordic countries.” In Day and Wensley’s understanding Day and Wensley (1988) a core competency is a unique ability or resource that offers a competitive advantage in creating and delivering value to customers. As in other regional cuisines, the Nordic terroir (i.e., the unique expression of conditions such as soil, climate, and production process in agricultural produce) is believed to be the most prominent of the core competencies. According to Meyer et al. (2010) the distinctive Nordic terroir is a result of the region’s cool climate and slow growth conditions, including the difference in day and night temperatures, season fluctuations and amount of light, and the early spring and late fall growth seasons. These climate and growth conditions are thus reported (Meyer et al., 2010) as having a huge impact on the gustatory quality of Nordic foods and especially on Nordic fruit, berries, and vegetables. Although NNC is founded in the local terroir and processing methods such as pickling, fermenting, and smoking, its front-runners see NNC as distinctively more innovative and progressive than the region’s culinary traditions and practices (Kærga˚rd, 2012). Thus the competencies that bridge the past with the present as well as aspirations for the future also include the gastroentrepreneurship and serendipity of its front-runners, their sustainability focus and storytelling practices, and the association between NNC and the Nordic ways of living (Kærga˚rd, 2012; Mossberg & Eide, 2017). Large food processing companies, retailers, and food service companies are predominantly positive towards the NNC principles and competencies. In the interviews, however, they stated that the high price, the varying quality, and the insufficient supply of local produce imply that in its present form the NNC is only capable of producing a supplement to their mainstream assortments.
Future Outlooks: Nordic Gastronomy in Food Marketing and Catering
11.3 THE NNC VALUE PROPOSITION According to Day and Wensley (1988), customer value is provided when the competitive advantage potential of core competencies is employed in the creation and supply of products and services. Although it is unquestionable that NNC has created value for finedining customers, it is less clear to which extent the NNC competencies and practices can be exploited by other types of food marketers. According to Byrkjeflot, Pedersen, and Svejenova (2013) and Mossberg and Eide (2017), the success of NNC is the result of an innovative recombination of local produce and recipes as well as of extensive storytelling. In particular, storytelling has brought the concept to life by infusing the Nordic terroir, produce, and processing methods with customer value. Notwithstanding, there is widespread reservations among the interviewees as regards the possibility of transferring the storytelling practices to their own businesses. Whereas both large and small food processing companies stress the unfeasibility of implementing NNC practices unless the food retail chains are willing to pave the road, retailers on their side report that the segment of food consumers interested in New Nordic foods is too small to warrant the investment needed. (However, some of the chains have started to list foods from small local producers in their assortments.) In addition the retailers report that an implementation of NNC foods in their assortments is challenged by modern consumers’ lack of cooking competencies and time. Here, retailers feel it is the responsibility of policymakers and educators to empower consumers to value and recapture Nordic produce and cooking traditions.
11.4 FIVE FUTURE SCENARIOS NOMA and other top NNC restaurants being in favor globally makes it tempting to conclude that NNC is here to stay and grow. However, for NNC to expand to other markets, not only do restaurants and food processors need to invest in product development and marketing, but also public authorities and/or other institutions must invest in an NNC foods labeling scheme. Below we elaborate on these issues and describe five possible scenarios (e.g., Fade, Niche, Export, Mainstream, and Assimilation) for prospects of NNC.
11.4.1 Niche Representing the current position, New Nordic Cuisine is likely to remain a niche that caters to the affluent and gourmets. However, it will slowly expand to a broader set of high-end restaurants and into the home kitchens of the gastro segment. NNC customers will hence include well-to-do Danish consumers and gastrotourists, who will travel to experience the Nordic cuisine. Therefore high-end restaurants and tourist destinations will maintain and expand their focus on New Nordic Cuisine. The expansion of
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NNC in the Nordic countries to other large cities and global megacities will continue. Small food producers will benefit from this development because of new opportunities to supply restaurants and specialty retailers. A more constant production of high-quality ingredients will enable the niche to better withstand competing culinary trends.
11.4.2 Fading out In this scenario, NNC is seen as a fad. As upcoming chefs will feel restricted by the NNC principles and unable to fight the competition from established NNC restaurants, the progress of such establishments will cease. Just as it happened to the fusion foods of the postmodernist 1980s and molecular gastronomy of the technology enthused 1990s, the NNC will fade as new culinary trends pop up. Thus, as NNC (as other regionally founded kitchens) is a reaction to the globalization of food marketing, it will reach its expiration date at the same pace as people acknowledge that globalization is here to stay and stop longing for the past. Without leaving any traces in mainstream food production and consumption, NNC will fade from the minds of food consumers and into the food history of the Nordic countries.
11.4.3 Export This scenario has a broader scope than the one above as NNC producers and restaurants will exploit the focus on Nordic culture and gastronomy to find broader markets domestically as well as abroad. Although remaining a high-end trend, NNC will approach the level of international recognition that Mediterranean cuisine enjoys today. The international interest will be fueled by the widespread interest in Nordic fiction/movies and ways of living. To acquire the financial strength, marketing expertise, production volumes, quality, and safety documentation required for export initiatives, small NNC processors will team up with large food processing companies and/or public authorities. As regards documentation, NNC producers will be approved for national and supranational denomination of origin schemes, such as the European Union labeling for geographical indication and traditional specialities.
11.4.4 Mainstream The opportunity of reaching out to a broad target group in the Nordic region is even more promising than in the previous scenario, and large as well as small food producers, caterers, and retailers will be important players in the development of NNC products, services, and marketing communication. The barriers related to the stability of supply, high costs, and a willingness to pay will thus be eliminated. In addition to the geographical expansion of the export scenario, NNC will reach out to a broader target group and move beyond the elitist image. Fine-dining chefs and high quality Nordic food products will retain their status and
Future Outlooks: Nordic Gastronomy in Food Marketing and Catering
function as lighthouses for the mainstream food sector, while at the same time pursuing their innovation efforts to safeguard their premier league position.
11.4.5 Assimilation In many ways, this is similar to the mainstream scenario, but here NNC vanishes from the news media and slowly loses its importance as a label. Hence the focus on “New Nordic foods,” NOMA, and other NNC restaurants will recede, leaving only the key elements and competencies of the trend. As stated in the documents of the Nordic Council of Ministers (2005) and by the front-running chefs (e.g., Meyer et al., 2010), the principles will be implemented by a large proportion of Danish and Nordic food producers and caterers as well as by food producers from other parts of the world, but the NNC hype will eventually vanish. While some key elements of the trend become integral parts of our everyday lives, they will no longer be heralded as the guiding values and principles associated with New Nordic Cuisine. Consumer interest in the interplay between the expressions of terroir, local produce, sustainability, and eating qualities will continue to grow. The regiocentric elements of the trend will be less conspicuous, and Nordic foods will be seen as matching quality products and dishes from other parts of the world. The interviews with food sector stakeholders revealed positions that add plausibility to each of the five NNC scenarios described above. Although when summing up the knowledge gained through the stakeholder interviews, we assess the most likely scenario is that the NNC principles and competencies will be assimilated by the food industrial complex. Hence as neither food processors nor retailers feel inclined to invest the money needed to attempt realizing the export or the mainstream scenarios, the assimilation scenario is the most likely one in the long run. This assessment is based on the assumption that the rising consumer interest in sustainability, local identity, and quality foods is a long-term trend, which is not going to fade in the foreseeable future. Hence in the following, we concentrate on business opportunities in the assimilation scenario.
11.5 BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES IN THE ASSIMILATION SCENARIO To exploit the growth potential inherent to the assimilation scenario, more specific business models and value propositions must be developed. Below, we discuss six opportunities for how the Nordic food and catering industries can capitalize on the principles and competencies of the NNC within the assimilation scenario. The identification of these opportunities—three for the food industry (Gastro-Convenience, Local Products, and Gastro-Education) and three for catering (Package Deals, Attraction Eateries, and Local Cooking)—is based on interviews with stakeholders from the Danish food and tourism industry (Bundgaard et al., 2017). Industry opportunity 1: gastro-convenience. Several food industry stakeholders designate gastronomic convenience products as an area with a high growth potential and a high
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willingness to pay. These interviewees particularly emphasize a potential for half- and fully processed meal solutions, food on-the-go, and weekend gastronomy shortcuts. In the convenience area, NNC has already had a direct influence through cooperation between NNC chefs, retailers, and food producers. Examples include Coop Denmark’s cooperation with Claus Meyer and Claus Holm, and Dansk Supermarked’s collaboration with Mette Blomsterberg. In this connection, it is emphasized that compromises are inevitable: “… I tend to say that we are on a journey; to make Nordic gastronomy accessible to consumers, we must make some compromises on the road” (Rasmus Damsted Hansen, Meyers Food). One interviewee emphasizes gastronomy actors’ insight into and acceptance of food industry processes as crucial to the creation of Gastro-Convenience products. This covers, among other things, requirements for product durability and the gastronomic player’s resources in terms of redefining the product so that it works in a context outside the restaurant sector. The interviewees emphasize, however, that cooperation does not necessarily have to involve actors working with the same product categories. It may be more beneficial to find front-runners in other areas and to establish cooperation based on the exchange of knowledge between the two parties: “Mikkeller is perhaps the world’s best brewery right now. It is very likely that they have knowledge we can benefit from in cheese making” (John Gynther, Arla Unika). In addition the extent to which consumers see an inconsistency between Nordic gastronomy and convenience products is seen as critical factor. Hence it is important for the food industry to develop product and marketing strategies that are based on an alignment of the NNC focus on naturalness and the acceptance of high quality convenience foods. Industry opportunity 2: local products. The NNC also offers propositions that do not lend themselves easily to upscaling, though they may still be relevant for the food industry. Thus value can be created by large food companies and retailers cooperating with producers of local products to promote mainstream brands. In such partnerships, highquality gourmet products are created with authenticity and storytelling as key resources. Several interviewees hence report that consumers are currently asking for locally produced Nordic foods with good stories. In this connection an interviewee refers to the EU system of origin marking and to a current project involving the Association of Danish Small Islands: “We have an EU project that deals with local profiling based on local food production, and this is where we must strengthen cooperation locally” (Laurids Siig Christensen, The Taste of Denmark). However, there may be challenges in relation to the relevant key processes in the business model; these may particularly be related to logistics and the move from small private farm stores to retailing: “My own little company produces geese on Sejerø, and we had to build our own slaughterhouse. We do the packaging and we do everything. I didn’t know anything before I started this up. Suddenly we are a very, very complex food-producing company, but we are still small” (Laurids Siig Christensen, The Taste of Denmark).
Future Outlooks: Nordic Gastronomy in Food Marketing and Catering
Industry opportunity 3: gastro-education. Lack of consumer competencies is another limitation on the food industry and grocery retailers’ scaling of gastronomic experiences. Conveyance of the optimal preparation of a gourmet product in a supermarket context is tricky. Thus the interviewees report that upscaling the Nordic food value propositions are limited due to consumers’ inadequate competencies in the preparation of high quality foods. This means that there is a business opportunity that depends on teaching consumers to use unfamiliar ingredients and to treat high quality foods carefully. “It’s about inspiring and helping our customers, so that’s also an option” (Jeff Salter, Coop). Although the idea of providing inspiration through recipes and instructions is not new, the marketing of Nordic foods by means of education still has potential. One option is to combine the marketing of gourmet products with cooking classes that focus on Nordic and other high-quality foods. Furthermore, because of the high level of social trust and geographical expansion the potential for using digital platforms for the common purpose of inspiration, education, and marketing of Nordic quality foods is large. In this context, there may be an untapped potential in social media opportunities; for instance, by setting up inspiring cooking communities or a real-time blog and/or a gourmet meal preparation hotline. Catering opportunity 1: package deals. The interviewees generally agree that rather than solely catering to the relatively few tourists who visit Denmark to experience its finedining restaurants, there might be a potential in developing better Nordic food value propositions for mainstream tourists. “It is about moving to the next stage, which is what we might term: Denmark as an interesting food country” (Eva Thybo, VisitDenmark). Package deals that involve local eateries as well as visits to food producers in the local foodscape might be an interesting offer. Emphasis should lie in creating regional gastronomic routes involving several aspects of the value chain from farm to fork. The interviewees suggest that visits to producers could be supplemented with, for example, fishing trips, the collection of herbs, or coproduction activities in restaurants. Such activities might be integrated into various food festivals such as Copenhagen Cooking or the Norwegian lobster festival. The advantage of gastronomic routes and package solutions is that they can be based on existing resources, including eateries, food producers, shopping, and accommodation facilities: “Package Deals are an obvious potential because there is so much out there already” (Tine Schriver, HORESTA2). However, cooperation between the parties involved is a potential barrier for the exploitation of the potential: “This requires collaboration with other sectors, and we are not very good at that in Denmark” (Eva Thybo, VisitDenmark). Catering opportunity 2: attraction eateries. According to the interviewees, only a limited number of the Danish tourist attractions have exploited the potential inherent in the 2
The Danish association for hotels and restaurants.
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interest in Nordic foods: “You might say that tourist attractions have failed to prioritize food. They do not see it as an important part of their offer” (Tine Schriver, HORESTA). Hence, the interviewees believe that strengthening the link between tourist attractions and food will create value for tourists. Especially in regard to cultural tourist attractions, such as art and cultural museums, there is a gastronomic growth potential in offering Nordic food, which is associated with their exhibitions. Such offers already exist; for instance, at the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde that offers a Viking menu, but the potential of initiatives like this is assessed to be much larger. The interviewees also agree that gastronomy and art are closely related, and that value can be created through experiences that combine food and art. For example, Tina Jakobsen, from Cafe Aalto at the Aalborg art museum stated: “To my mind, food is also art. There is much in visual terms that you can use. I believe that when you visit a place like this it should be a complete experience: that you actually get art on a plate.” Thus, restaurants should be inspired by the works of the associated museum, especially in connection with temporary exhibitions. There are also voices, however, that stress that museum eateries should be careful not to be to “avant garde” when aligning their menus with the exhibitions. As an example the ART restaurant at the ARoS (Viking name for the city of Aarhus) art museum in Aarhus, was replaced with a food hall: “People were reluctant to come here. They found ART a bit arty-farty. But then we did this concept with fewer dishes that are not so pricey and where you can choose how many you want” (Martin Søgaard, ARoS). Catering opportunity 3: local cooking. Several interviewees mention a need to raise the gastronomic level of countryside restaurants. For example, an interviewee commented that “the quality is very low. They do not even make their own mayonnaise. In 90% of the cases, it comes out of a container” (Bent Christensen, The Danish Diners’ Guide). In connection with the boosting of Danish nonelitist gastronomy, interviewees mention the Local Cooking initiative as a launch pad for creating stronger links in the food value chain. Local Cooking is a regional competition originating in the Zealand Region; it aims to give diners a top culinary experience based on the region’s produce and enable restaurants to draw attention to the local produce. A close collaboration between local food producers and eateries makes it easier to tell a story that appeals to tourists who have come to experience what the site has to offer: “This enables us to tell the story of where their steak has grazed near the North Sea and that the produce was grown at this or that farm, …” (Tine Schriver, HORESTA). Another interviewee says: “More initiatives like this would give tourists a better offering, and if they became stronger and developed across the country, it would be even better” (Eva Thybo, Visit, Denmark). Hence an expansion of “Local Cooking” is recommended or that similar events to cover other Nordic regions be launched. In addition, an interviewee comments on how the original Local Cooking network of eateries and food producers can benefit both parties: “What Local Cooking shows is that once contact is
Future Outlooks: Nordic Gastronomy in Food Marketing and Catering
established and things get done, then the kitchen will say, ‘Could you perhaps supply some small cauliflowers?’ Or: ‘I would like to take some of your free-range pork and I’ll take the whole pig’” (Tine Schriver, HORESTA). Thus, Local Cooking is also an opportunity to promote the sales of small, innovative local food producers.
11.6 DISCUSSION The NNC movement is driven by principles and competencies identified and developed by entrepreneurial chefs from fine-dining Nordic restaurants. These principles and competencies involved a focus on the freshness, purity, simplicity, and terroir of the Nordic region. Although the movement originated in the fine-dining segment, the chefs’ intentions were that the principles and competencies be exploited and expanded so as to benefit all Nordic food consumers. Because Northern compared to Southern European food producers have been more inclined to trade tradition and sustainability for efficiency and volume, the development of NNC was not only driven by a wish to retain and recapture local traditions, but also by a quest for sustainability and gastro-sophistication. Based on extant NNC literature and interviews with stakeholders in the food sector the discussion above has shown how NNC had developed since it was conceived in 2004. However, the discussion also revealed that although many of the NNC principles and competencies may be assimilated by the general Nordic food and catering industries, it is likely that the NNC label itself will disappear. However, although the NNC hype will fade, there are still plenty of opportunities to develop the NNC principles and competencies into viable value propositions and business opportunities. Above, six such opportunities for the Nordic food and catering industries were identified. The nature and potential size of the economic gains vary between these opportunities. For example, some concepts (e.g., Attraction Eateries, Gastro-Education and GastroConvenience) may add value to the products sold and meals served. In addition to the increased value in the product itself, local cooking concepts (e.g., Local Cooking, Package Deals, Local Products) may lead to secondary economic effects in the local area, not only from local food producers, but also from the input-output effects from subcontractors. An assessment of the economic potential of the six business concepts will depend on various conditions such as geographical location, potential customer base, existing infrastructure, etc. This, however, is beyond the scope of this chapter. All other things equal, it is, however, assessed that Gastro-Convenience has a greater economic potential than the two other initiatives (Local Products and Gastro-Education) identified for industrial application. This is due to the fact that the convenience area is generally growing, that there is a great potential for quality improvement in relation to the existing supply of ready-made meals, and that the Nordic food industries have the skills needed to scale their
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production, marketing, and export of gastronomic convenience products. However, a drawback of the concept is that consumers may or may not perceive gastronomy and convenience as a credible combination. Moreover, in regard to the opportunities identified for the catering sector, the economic potential related to Package Deals and for improving the food offerings at tourist attractions is assessed to be considerable. This is due to the fact that the customer base is already present at the tourist attractions and regions of interest, that the quality of the current offerings is considered to be relatively low, and that in some cases synergy to the core services of attractions can be created; for example, at art and cultural museums. However, setting up a restaurant or cafe is costly, so often it may be more fruitful to establish an alliance with a suitable local restaurant. In addition the development of tourist attraction eateries is conditional on the ability of the attractions and eateries to cooperate, as well as on the user demand for gastronomic experiences in connection with attractions. However, it is unclear to what extent the management of the attractions and those in charge of the eateries are willing and able to work together to exploit the synergies. At the same time, it is a question of to what extent customers are willing to spend more time and more money enjoying a meal when visiting an attraction. Acknowledging that the perpetual success and growth of the Nordic food and catering industries are not given, governments in the Nordic countries are supporting Nordic food on a continuous basis. In Denmark, this has resulted in the establishment of privatepublic initiatives such as “Food Nation” and “Gastro2025.” At the supranational level, The Nordic Council of Ministers has promoted the tenets behind New Nordic Food in a number of UN meetings and conferences and assigned leading chefs as NNC ambassadors. The exploitation of some of the business opportunities identified above, and especially those related to the catering sector, depends on further support from the Nordic governments.
REFERENCES Andersen, S. S., Vassard, D., Havn, L. N., Damsgaard, C. T., Biltoft-Jensen, A., & Holm, L. (2016). Measuring the impact of classmates on children’s liking of school meals. Food Quality and Preference, 52, 87–95. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodqual.2016.03.018. Bech-Larsen, T., Mørk, T., & Kolle, S. (2016). New Nordic cuisine: is there another back to the future?—an informed viewpoint on NNC value drivers and market scenarios. Trends in Food Science & Technology, 50, 249–253. Bundgaard, L., Lundberg Hansen, G., Ahm Mielby, L., Dejga˚rd Jensen, J., Bogers, M., Byrne, V. D., et al. (2017). Vækstmuligheder inden for dansk gastronomi. DCA rapport, nr. 96. Byrkjeflot, H., Pedersen, J. S., & Svejenova, S. (2013). From label to practice: the process of creating new Nordic cuisine. Journal of Culinary Science & Technology, 11(1), 36–55. Day, G. S., & Wensley, R. (1988). Assessing advantage: a framework for diagnosing competitive superiority. Journal of Marketing, 52(2), 1–20. https://doi.org/10.2307/1251261. Kærga˚rd, N. (2012). Fra det gamle danske landkøkken til det nye nordiske–Baggrund, forskelle og ligheder. Landbohistorisk Tidsskrift, 9(1), 98–114.
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Manniche, J., & Sæther, B. (2017). Emerging Nordic food approaches. European Planning Studies, 25(7), 1101–1110. https://doi.org/10.1080/09654313.2017.1327036. Meyer, C., Mithril, C., & Blauert, E. (2010). Grundlag for Ny Nordisk hverdagsmad (The foundation for and definition of a New Nordic diet). Copenhagen: University of Copenhagen, Department of Human Nutrition [in Danish]. Michelin (2018). https://guide.michelin.sg/en/nordic-michelin-guide-2018-results-full-list. Mossberg, L., & Eide, D. (2017). Storytelling and meal experience concepts. European Planning Studies, 25(7), 1184–1199. https://doi.org/10.1080/09654313.2016.1276156. Mouritsen, O. G., Duelund, L., Calleja, G., & Frøst, M. B. (2017). Flavor of fermented fish, insect, game, and pea sauces: garum revisited. International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science, 9, 16–28. https://doi. org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2017.05.002. Nordic Council of Ministers for Fisheries and Aquaculture, & Agriculture, Foodstuffs and Forestry. (2005). http://www.norden.org/da/nordisk-ministerraad/ministerraad/nordisk-ministerraad-for-fiskeri-havbrugjordbrug-levnedsmidler-og-skovbrug-mr-fjls/ny-nordisk-mad. Ooi, C. S., & Strandgaard, J. (2017). Tourism, place branding and the local-turn in food: the New Nordic cuisine/tourismus, Place Branding und die Hinwendung zu lokalen Produkten: Die New Nordic Cuisine. In D. Wagner, M. Mair, A. St€ ockl, & A. Dreyer (Eds.), Kulinarischer Tourismus und Weintourismus. Forschung und Praxis an der FHWien der WKW. Wiesbaden: Springer Gabler.
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Future Outlooks: Nordic Gastronomy in Food Marketing and Catering Tino Bech-Larsen, Trine Mørk, Lise Bundgaard The MAPP Centre, Department of Management, Aarhus University, Aarhus, Denmark
11.1 INTRODUCTION New Nordic Cuisine was conceived in November 2004, when food professionals from the Nordic countries published the “Ny Nordisk Mad” manifesto (Meyer, Mithril, & Blauert, 2010). The willingness of private and public (e.g., the Nordic Council) foundations to support the idea enabled the opening of the Nordic Food Lab, which focus on, among other issues, the application of NNC principles to school meals (Andersen et al., 2016) as well as on the integration of uncommon foods, such as fermented fish and insects, into the Nordic diet (Mouritsen, Duelund, Calleja, & Frøst, 2017). These activities, and in particular the success of NOMA in Copenhagen (awarded “best restaurant in the world” in 2010, 2011, 2012, and 2014), led to the opening of NNC restaurants in other Nordic cities, as well as in New York and other megacities. In the Nordic region itself, NNC has stimulated the branding of capitals and large cities (Ooi & Strandgaard, 2017) as well as the development of local food products and tourism (Manniche & Sæther, 2017). These developments are also reflected in the introduction of the Nordic Michelin guide (Michelin, 2018), which lists fine-dining restaurants from large and small cities in all five Nordic countries. Here, however, we want to discuss whether and how the NNC principles may be advanced to create value for the customers of a broader set of food production and catering companies. We first discuss the drivers behind the NNC value propositions, and then we describe five future scenarios for NNC; finally, we identify a set of business opportunities for the food and catering industries.1 According to Day and Wensley (1988) the creation of value propositions depends on the simultaneous employment of the principles and core competencies of a business initiative. Hence the potential of NNC to grow outside its fine-dining setting depends on whether stakeholders in the food processing, catering, and tourism industries perceive the NNC principles and core competencies as relevant for the future of their businesses. Thus our discussion of the prospects and business opportunities for Nordic food are based on a 1
This chapter is partly based on Bech-Larsen, Mørk, and Kolle (2016).
Nutritional and Health Aspects of Food in Nordic Countries https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-809416-7.00011-1
© 2018 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
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review of publications related to NNC principles and competencies, as well as on interviews with large and small food processing companies, retailers, mainstream restaurants, and other tourism sector stakeholders.
11.2 NNC PRINCIPLES AND COMPETENCIES NNC is an expression of the four principles of freshness, purity, simplicity, and ethics associated with the Nordic Region (Meyer et al., 2010). Furthermore, it is stressed that NNC must interpret and implement these four principles to unite gustatory quality with animal welfare, sustainability, health, innovativeness, and inspiration from other culinary traditions. It is important to note that the NNC manifesto (Meyer et al., 2010) explicitly states that NNC practitioners must not only comply with the NNC principles, but also develop and advocate them in an open and undogmatic way. Thus the manifesto urge consumers, food artisans, farmers, fishermen, small and large food processing companies, retailers, teachers, researchers, politicians, and public authorities to cooperate and take part in the development of NNC “for the benefit and joy of everybody in the Nordic countries.” In Day and Wensley’s understanding Day and Wensley (1988) a core competency is a unique ability or resource that offers a competitive advantage in creating and delivering value to customers. As in other regional cuisines, the Nordic terroir (i.e., the unique expression of conditions such as soil, climate, and production process in agricultural produce) is believed to be the most prominent of the core competencies. According to Meyer et al. (2010) the distinctive Nordic terroir is a result of the region’s cool climate and slow growth conditions, including the difference in day and night temperatures, season fluctuations and amount of light, and the early spring and late fall growth seasons. These climate and growth conditions are thus reported (Meyer et al., 2010) as having a huge impact on the gustatory quality of Nordic foods and especially on Nordic fruit, berries, and vegetables. Although NNC is founded in the local terroir and processing methods such as pickling, fermenting, and smoking, its front-runners see NNC as distinctively more innovative and progressive than the region’s culinary traditions and practices (Kærga˚rd, 2012). Thus the competencies that bridge the past with the present as well as aspirations for the future also include the gastroentrepreneurship and serendipity of its front-runners, their sustainability focus and storytelling practices, and the association between NNC and the Nordic ways of living (Kærga˚rd, 2012; Mossberg & Eide, 2017). Large food processing companies, retailers, and food service companies are predominantly positive towards the NNC principles and competencies. In the interviews, however, they stated that the high price, the varying quality, and the insufficient supply of local produce imply that in its present form the NNC is only capable of producing a supplement to their mainstream assortments.
Future Outlooks: Nordic Gastronomy in Food Marketing and Catering
11.3 THE NNC VALUE PROPOSITION According to Day and Wensley (1988), customer value is provided when the competitive advantage potential of core competencies is employed in the creation and supply of products and services. Although it is unquestionable that NNC has created value for finedining customers, it is less clear to which extent the NNC competencies and practices can be exploited by other types of food marketers. According to Byrkjeflot, Pedersen, and Svejenova (2013) and Mossberg and Eide (2017), the success of NNC is the result of an innovative recombination of local produce and recipes as well as of extensive storytelling. In particular, storytelling has brought the concept to life by infusing the Nordic terroir, produce, and processing methods with customer value. Notwithstanding, there is widespread reservations among the interviewees as regards the possibility of transferring the storytelling practices to their own businesses. Whereas both large and small food processing companies stress the unfeasibility of implementing NNC practices unless the food retail chains are willing to pave the road, retailers on their side report that the segment of food consumers interested in New Nordic foods is too small to warrant the investment needed. (However, some of the chains have started to list foods from small local producers in their assortments.) In addition the retailers report that an implementation of NNC foods in their assortments is challenged by modern consumers’ lack of cooking competencies and time. Here, retailers feel it is the responsibility of policymakers and educators to empower consumers to value and recapture Nordic produce and cooking traditions.
11.4 FIVE FUTURE SCENARIOS NOMA and other top NNC restaurants being in favor globally makes it tempting to conclude that NNC is here to stay and grow. However, for NNC to expand to other markets, not only do restaurants and food processors need to invest in product development and marketing, but also public authorities and/or other institutions must invest in an NNC foods labeling scheme. Below we elaborate on these issues and describe five possible scenarios (e.g., Fade, Niche, Export, Mainstream, and Assimilation) for prospects of NNC.
11.4.1 Niche Representing the current position, New Nordic Cuisine is likely to remain a niche that caters to the affluent and gourmets. However, it will slowly expand to a broader set of high-end restaurants and into the home kitchens of the gastro segment. NNC customers will hence include well-to-do Danish consumers and gastrotourists, who will travel to experience the Nordic cuisine. Therefore high-end restaurants and tourist destinations will maintain and expand their focus on New Nordic Cuisine. The expansion of
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NNC in the Nordic countries to other large cities and global megacities will continue. Small food producers will benefit from this development because of new opportunities to supply restaurants and specialty retailers. A more constant production of high-quality ingredients will enable the niche to better withstand competing culinary trends.
11.4.2 Fading out In this scenario, NNC is seen as a fad. As upcoming chefs will feel restricted by the NNC principles and unable to fight the competition from established NNC restaurants, the progress of such establishments will cease. Just as it happened to the fusion foods of the postmodernist 1980s and molecular gastronomy of the technology enthused 1990s, the NNC will fade as new culinary trends pop up. Thus, as NNC (as other regionally founded kitchens) is a reaction to the globalization of food marketing, it will reach its expiration date at the same pace as people acknowledge that globalization is here to stay and stop longing for the past. Without leaving any traces in mainstream food production and consumption, NNC will fade from the minds of food consumers and into the food history of the Nordic countries.
11.4.3 Export This scenario has a broader scope than the one above as NNC producers and restaurants will exploit the focus on Nordic culture and gastronomy to find broader markets domestically as well as abroad. Although remaining a high-end trend, NNC will approach the level of international recognition that Mediterranean cuisine enjoys today. The international interest will be fueled by the widespread interest in Nordic fiction/movies and ways of living. To acquire the financial strength, marketing expertise, production volumes, quality, and safety documentation required for export initiatives, small NNC processors will team up with large food processing companies and/or public authorities. As regards documentation, NNC producers will be approved for national and supranational denomination of origin schemes, such as the European Union labeling for geographical indication and traditional specialities.
11.4.4 Mainstream The opportunity of reaching out to a broad target group in the Nordic region is even more promising than in the previous scenario, and large as well as small food producers, caterers, and retailers will be important players in the development of NNC products, services, and marketing communication. The barriers related to the stability of supply, high costs, and a willingness to pay will thus be eliminated. In addition to the geographical expansion of the export scenario, NNC will reach out to a broader target group and move beyond the elitist image. Fine-dining chefs and high quality Nordic food products will retain their status and
Future Outlooks: Nordic Gastronomy in Food Marketing and Catering
function as lighthouses for the mainstream food sector, while at the same time pursuing their innovation efforts to safeguard their premier league position.
11.4.5 Assimilation In many ways, this is similar to the mainstream scenario, but here NNC vanishes from the news media and slowly loses its importance as a label. Hence the focus on “New Nordic foods,” NOMA, and other NNC restaurants will recede, leaving only the key elements and competencies of the trend. As stated in the documents of the Nordic Council of Ministers (2005) and by the front-running chefs (e.g., Meyer et al., 2010), the principles will be implemented by a large proportion of Danish and Nordic food producers and caterers as well as by food producers from other parts of the world, but the NNC hype will eventually vanish. While some key elements of the trend become integral parts of our everyday lives, they will no longer be heralded as the guiding values and principles associated with New Nordic Cuisine. Consumer interest in the interplay between the expressions of terroir, local produce, sustainability, and eating qualities will continue to grow. The regiocentric elements of the trend will be less conspicuous, and Nordic foods will be seen as matching quality products and dishes from other parts of the world. The interviews with food sector stakeholders revealed positions that add plausibility to each of the five NNC scenarios described above. Although when summing up the knowledge gained through the stakeholder interviews, we assess the most likely scenario is that the NNC principles and competencies will be assimilated by the food industrial complex. Hence as neither food processors nor retailers feel inclined to invest the money needed to attempt realizing the export or the mainstream scenarios, the assimilation scenario is the most likely one in the long run. This assessment is based on the assumption that the rising consumer interest in sustainability, local identity, and quality foods is a long-term trend, which is not going to fade in the foreseeable future. Hence in the following, we concentrate on business opportunities in the assimilation scenario.
11.5 BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES IN THE ASSIMILATION SCENARIO To exploit the growth potential inherent to the assimilation scenario, more specific business models and value propositions must be developed. Below, we discuss six opportunities for how the Nordic food and catering industries can capitalize on the principles and competencies of the NNC within the assimilation scenario. The identification of these opportunities—three for the food industry (Gastro-Convenience, Local Products, and Gastro-Education) and three for catering (Package Deals, Attraction Eateries, and Local Cooking)—is based on interviews with stakeholders from the Danish food and tourism industry (Bundgaard et al., 2017). Industry opportunity 1: gastro-convenience. Several food industry stakeholders designate gastronomic convenience products as an area with a high growth potential and a high
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willingness to pay. These interviewees particularly emphasize a potential for half- and fully processed meal solutions, food on-the-go, and weekend gastronomy shortcuts. In the convenience area, NNC has already had a direct influence through cooperation between NNC chefs, retailers, and food producers. Examples include Coop Denmark’s cooperation with Claus Meyer and Claus Holm, and Dansk Supermarked’s collaboration with Mette Blomsterberg. In this connection, it is emphasized that compromises are inevitable: “… I tend to say that we are on a journey; to make Nordic gastronomy accessible to consumers, we must make some compromises on the road” (Rasmus Damsted Hansen, Meyers Food). One interviewee emphasizes gastronomy actors’ insight into and acceptance of food industry processes as crucial to the creation of Gastro-Convenience products. This covers, among other things, requirements for product durability and the gastronomic player’s resources in terms of redefining the product so that it works in a context outside the restaurant sector. The interviewees emphasize, however, that cooperation does not necessarily have to involve actors working with the same product categories. It may be more beneficial to find front-runners in other areas and to establish cooperation based on the exchange of knowledge between the two parties: “Mikkeller is perhaps the world’s best brewery right now. It is very likely that they have knowledge we can benefit from in cheese making” (John Gynther, Arla Unika). In addition the extent to which consumers see an inconsistency between Nordic gastronomy and convenience products is seen as critical factor. Hence it is important for the food industry to develop product and marketing strategies that are based on an alignment of the NNC focus on naturalness and the acceptance of high quality convenience foods. Industry opportunity 2: local products. The NNC also offers propositions that do not lend themselves easily to upscaling, though they may still be relevant for the food industry. Thus value can be created by large food companies and retailers cooperating with producers of local products to promote mainstream brands. In such partnerships, highquality gourmet products are created with authenticity and storytelling as key resources. Several interviewees hence report that consumers are currently asking for locally produced Nordic foods with good stories. In this connection an interviewee refers to the EU system of origin marking and to a current project involving the Association of Danish Small Islands: “We have an EU project that deals with local profiling based on local food production, and this is where we must strengthen cooperation locally” (Laurids Siig Christensen, The Taste of Denmark). However, there may be challenges in relation to the relevant key processes in the business model; these may particularly be related to logistics and the move from small private farm stores to retailing: “My own little company produces geese on Sejerø, and we had to build our own slaughterhouse. We do the packaging and we do everything. I didn’t know anything before I started this up. Suddenly we are a very, very complex food-producing company, but we are still small” (Laurids Siig Christensen, The Taste of Denmark).
Future Outlooks: Nordic Gastronomy in Food Marketing and Catering
Industry opportunity 3: gastro-education. Lack of consumer competencies is another limitation on the food industry and grocery retailers’ scaling of gastronomic experiences. Conveyance of the optimal preparation of a gourmet product in a supermarket context is tricky. Thus the interviewees report that upscaling the Nordic food value propositions are limited due to consumers’ inadequate competencies in the preparation of high quality foods. This means that there is a business opportunity that depends on teaching consumers to use unfamiliar ingredients and to treat high quality foods carefully. “It’s about inspiring and helping our customers, so that’s also an option” (Jeff Salter, Coop). Although the idea of providing inspiration through recipes and instructions is not new, the marketing of Nordic foods by means of education still has potential. One option is to combine the marketing of gourmet products with cooking classes that focus on Nordic and other high-quality foods. Furthermore, because of the high level of social trust and geographical expansion the potential for using digital platforms for the common purpose of inspiration, education, and marketing of Nordic quality foods is large. In this context, there may be an untapped potential in social media opportunities; for instance, by setting up inspiring cooking communities or a real-time blog and/or a gourmet meal preparation hotline. Catering opportunity 1: package deals. The interviewees generally agree that rather than solely catering to the relatively few tourists who visit Denmark to experience its finedining restaurants, there might be a potential in developing better Nordic food value propositions for mainstream tourists. “It is about moving to the next stage, which is what we might term: Denmark as an interesting food country” (Eva Thybo, VisitDenmark). Package deals that involve local eateries as well as visits to food producers in the local foodscape might be an interesting offer. Emphasis should lie in creating regional gastronomic routes involving several aspects of the value chain from farm to fork. The interviewees suggest that visits to producers could be supplemented with, for example, fishing trips, the collection of herbs, or coproduction activities in restaurants. Such activities might be integrated into various food festivals such as Copenhagen Cooking or the Norwegian lobster festival. The advantage of gastronomic routes and package solutions is that they can be based on existing resources, including eateries, food producers, shopping, and accommodation facilities: “Package Deals are an obvious potential because there is so much out there already” (Tine Schriver, HORESTA2). However, cooperation between the parties involved is a potential barrier for the exploitation of the potential: “This requires collaboration with other sectors, and we are not very good at that in Denmark” (Eva Thybo, VisitDenmark). Catering opportunity 2: attraction eateries. According to the interviewees, only a limited number of the Danish tourist attractions have exploited the potential inherent in the 2
The Danish association for hotels and restaurants.
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interest in Nordic foods: “You might say that tourist attractions have failed to prioritize food. They do not see it as an important part of their offer” (Tine Schriver, HORESTA). Hence, the interviewees believe that strengthening the link between tourist attractions and food will create value for tourists. Especially in regard to cultural tourist attractions, such as art and cultural museums, there is a gastronomic growth potential in offering Nordic food, which is associated with their exhibitions. Such offers already exist; for instance, at the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde that offers a Viking menu, but the potential of initiatives like this is assessed to be much larger. The interviewees also agree that gastronomy and art are closely related, and that value can be created through experiences that combine food and art. For example, Tina Jakobsen, from Cafe Aalto at the Aalborg art museum stated: “To my mind, food is also art. There is much in visual terms that you can use. I believe that when you visit a place like this it should be a complete experience: that you actually get art on a plate.” Thus, restaurants should be inspired by the works of the associated museum, especially in connection with temporary exhibitions. There are also voices, however, that stress that museum eateries should be careful not to be to “avant garde” when aligning their menus with the exhibitions. As an example the ART restaurant at the ARoS (Viking name for the city of Aarhus) art museum in Aarhus, was replaced with a food hall: “People were reluctant to come here. They found ART a bit arty-farty. But then we did this concept with fewer dishes that are not so pricey and where you can choose how many you want” (Martin Søgaard, ARoS). Catering opportunity 3: local cooking. Several interviewees mention a need to raise the gastronomic level of countryside restaurants. For example, an interviewee commented that “the quality is very low. They do not even make their own mayonnaise. In 90% of the cases, it comes out of a container” (Bent Christensen, The Danish Diners’ Guide). In connection with the boosting of Danish nonelitist gastronomy, interviewees mention the Local Cooking initiative as a launch pad for creating stronger links in the food value chain. Local Cooking is a regional competition originating in the Zealand Region; it aims to give diners a top culinary experience based on the region’s produce and enable restaurants to draw attention to the local produce. A close collaboration between local food producers and eateries makes it easier to tell a story that appeals to tourists who have come to experience what the site has to offer: “This enables us to tell the story of where their steak has grazed near the North Sea and that the produce was grown at this or that farm, …” (Tine Schriver, HORESTA). Another interviewee says: “More initiatives like this would give tourists a better offering, and if they became stronger and developed across the country, it would be even better” (Eva Thybo, Visit, Denmark). Hence an expansion of “Local Cooking” is recommended or that similar events to cover other Nordic regions be launched. In addition, an interviewee comments on how the original Local Cooking network of eateries and food producers can benefit both parties: “What Local Cooking shows is that once contact is
Future Outlooks: Nordic Gastronomy in Food Marketing and Catering
established and things get done, then the kitchen will say, ‘Could you perhaps supply some small cauliflowers?’ Or: ‘I would like to take some of your free-range pork and I’ll take the whole pig’” (Tine Schriver, HORESTA). Thus, Local Cooking is also an opportunity to promote the sales of small, innovative local food producers.
11.6 DISCUSSION The NNC movement is driven by principles and competencies identified and developed by entrepreneurial chefs from fine-dining Nordic restaurants. These principles and competencies involved a focus on the freshness, purity, simplicity, and terroir of the Nordic region. Although the movement originated in the fine-dining segment, the chefs’ intentions were that the principles and competencies be exploited and expanded so as to benefit all Nordic food consumers. Because Northern compared to Southern European food producers have been more inclined to trade tradition and sustainability for efficiency and volume, the development of NNC was not only driven by a wish to retain and recapture local traditions, but also by a quest for sustainability and gastro-sophistication. Based on extant NNC literature and interviews with stakeholders in the food sector the discussion above has shown how NNC had developed since it was conceived in 2004. However, the discussion also revealed that although many of the NNC principles and competencies may be assimilated by the general Nordic food and catering industries, it is likely that the NNC label itself will disappear. However, although the NNC hype will fade, there are still plenty of opportunities to develop the NNC principles and competencies into viable value propositions and business opportunities. Above, six such opportunities for the Nordic food and catering industries were identified. The nature and potential size of the economic gains vary between these opportunities. For example, some concepts (e.g., Attraction Eateries, Gastro-Education and GastroConvenience) may add value to the products sold and meals served. In addition to the increased value in the product itself, local cooking concepts (e.g., Local Cooking, Package Deals, Local Products) may lead to secondary economic effects in the local area, not only from local food producers, but also from the input-output effects from subcontractors. An assessment of the economic potential of the six business concepts will depend on various conditions such as geographical location, potential customer base, existing infrastructure, etc. This, however, is beyond the scope of this chapter. All other things equal, it is, however, assessed that Gastro-Convenience has a greater economic potential than the two other initiatives (Local Products and Gastro-Education) identified for industrial application. This is due to the fact that the convenience area is generally growing, that there is a great potential for quality improvement in relation to the existing supply of ready-made meals, and that the Nordic food industries have the skills needed to scale their
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production, marketing, and export of gastronomic convenience products. However, a drawback of the concept is that consumers may or may not perceive gastronomy and convenience as a credible combination. Moreover, in regard to the opportunities identified for the catering sector, the economic potential related to Package Deals and for improving the food offerings at tourist attractions is assessed to be considerable. This is due to the fact that the customer base is already present at the tourist attractions and regions of interest, that the quality of the current offerings is considered to be relatively low, and that in some cases synergy to the core services of attractions can be created; for example, at art and cultural museums. However, setting up a restaurant or cafe is costly, so often it may be more fruitful to establish an alliance with a suitable local restaurant. In addition the development of tourist attraction eateries is conditional on the ability of the attractions and eateries to cooperate, as well as on the user demand for gastronomic experiences in connection with attractions. However, it is unclear to what extent the management of the attractions and those in charge of the eateries are willing and able to work together to exploit the synergies. At the same time, it is a question of to what extent customers are willing to spend more time and more money enjoying a meal when visiting an attraction. Acknowledging that the perpetual success and growth of the Nordic food and catering industries are not given, governments in the Nordic countries are supporting Nordic food on a continuous basis. In Denmark, this has resulted in the establishment of privatepublic initiatives such as “Food Nation” and “Gastro2025.” At the supranational level, The Nordic Council of Ministers has promoted the tenets behind New Nordic Food in a number of UN meetings and conferences and assigned leading chefs as NNC ambassadors. The exploitation of some of the business opportunities identified above, and especially those related to the catering sector, depends on further support from the Nordic governments.
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