Gastronomy

Gastronomy

14 GASTRONOMY By ROGER PHILLIPS SOAD) - all were famous gluttons. What we do learn from this book, however, is that the Romans were fond of using mus...

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14

GASTRONOMY By ROGER PHILLIPS SOAD) - all were famous gluttons. What we do learn from this book, however, is that the Romans were fond of using mushrooms because there were a number of recipes given both for specific species and for mushrooms in general. 'We thought it would be fun to experiment with one of these Roman recipes and try to adapt it for modern consumption. Here is the original version: 'MUSHROOMS, ANOTHER METHOD. Chop the stalks, place in a shaIIow pan, having added pepper,

lovage, a little honey. Blend with liquamen, add a little oil and let it cook.

The oldest known cookery book is attributed to a Roman called Apicius, but there were three men called Apicius in Roman times (one in 92BC, 14AD and

The key word here is liquamen, which was a kind of extract made from salted fish that the Romans appear to have prized highly in their cooking; it took six months to make! We thought that the nearest modern equivalent would be anchovies and tried cooking them with honey fungus, finding that this seemingly odd combination of ingredients made' a really interesting and unusually flavoured dish.

HONEY FUNGUS (Armillaria meIIea) - Roman style BC

Serves four: of fresh Honey Fungus 3 slices of whole wheat bread made into bread crumbs 1 small can of anchovies in olive oil 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon of finely chopped fresh lovage 1 clove garlic

2 cups

Clean the Honey Fungus with a damp cloth, or under running water if they are very gritty, then pat them dry with paper towels to remove the excess moisture. Place the bread crumbs, anchovies, and the anchovy oil in a blender and puree them. Put the puree to one side. Melt the butter in a shallow frying pan, add the mushrooms, garlic and lovage, and saute over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender (about eight minutes). Then sar in the bread-crumb mixture and heat for one minute to allow the flavours to amalgamate. Serve with plain broiled fish or meat. WARNING: If you are interested in eating wild mushrooms and toadstools, make sure they are safe. Every year people die from eating poisonous species. Find an expert, or leave them alone.