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New antimicrobials, rheology modifiers and other launches from In-Cosmetics 2008
F O C US strong foaming action. Nikkomulese rounds out Nikko Chemical’s family of emulsifying agents. The Nikkomulese line includes Nikkomulese LC, which exhibits moisturizing action, formulated for H/LC/E emulsions; Nikkomulese SE, which provides a ‘quick break’ effect and is intended for application in H/P/E emulsions reserved for cold or low processes; and Nikkomulese WO-NS, for use in low or silicone-free E/O emulsions. Nikko Chemical also offers Nikkomulese LH for application in H/E cream gels that are stable in the presence of electrolytes. Rhodia unveiled two new functional ingredients for skin and hair care applications. Miracare Plaisant provides exceptional flexibility of formulation and a creamy, rich foam, making it suitable for application in facial cleansers, shower gels, liquid soaps and shampoos. It is a mixture of zero-sulfate, biodegradable surfactants used to facilitate the production of natural gentle cleansers. The pearlescent agent Mirasheen STAR delivers excellent gloss and opacity, enhancing the visual appeal of a product. It is a liquid dispersion of ethylene glycol distearate crystals, suitable for use in liquid soaps, exfoliant masks, makeup removers, shampoos, and bath and shower products. Parfums, Cosmetiques Actualites, Apr/May 2008, (200), 128,131,132
ASSOCIATED PRODUCTS New antimicrobials, rheology modifiers and other launches from In-Cosmetics 2008 The In-Cosmetics 2008 show in Amsterdam saw the launch of many functional ingredients for personal care products. Rohm and Haas added Neolone CapG, a blend of methylisothiazolinone and caprylyl glycol, to its Neolone line of actives. Neolone CapG delivers robust antimicrobial properties, providing an alternative to parabens and formaldehyde in rinse and cosmetic care formulations. Surfatech launched its Spider Esters line of polar ester
JULY 2008
O N
S U R FAC TA N T S
spheres, claimed to be outstanding solubilizers for antioxidants, vitamins, peptides and sunscreen formulations, among others. With a spider web-like structure, Spider Esters comprise a hydrophilic body with hydrosoluble ‘paws’ and lipophilic ‘feet.’ Tinovis CD is a new cationic rheology modifying acrylic polymer from Ciba that can be used in body care and haircare formulations, including styling products and conditioners. This multifunctional ingredient provides targeted conditioning action, and facilitates the styling of wet or dry hair with no residues. Ciba also introduced Tinovis ADE, an anionic rheology modifier that enhances the sensory quality of a formulation. It is effective even at small concentrations, and finds application in standard emulsions as a polymeric emulsifier to control viscosity and stability. Tinovis ADE is ideal for use in body care, scrubs, moisturizers, lotions, rich creams and after-sun products. Inolex launched its new conditioning polymer Keazyne. A polyester 11, Keazyne provides emollient properties and the glossy look of esters combined with the cationic function of amine. This hydrophobic polyesteramine delivers outstanding conditioning action, suitable for application in anti-tangle cream rinses, styling creams or emulsions and anhydrous preparations. A new line of made-tomeasure actives from Seppic has been formulated to address the needs of scalps and hair exposed to various environmental strains. A sugar derivative, Aquaxyl rebalances moisture flows and rebuilds the hair shafts. Aquaxyl boosts the sensory properties of the foam in foaming products, and soothes the irritating effects of some surfactants. These purifying and dermoprotective ingredients, with antibacterial and antifungal properties, work on different levels of scalp irritation. Seppic’s new products include Sepicap MP for thermo-active protection; Lipoacide C8G and Lipoacide UG, formulated to address dandruff problems and for oily hair; and Thermoactive Sepicap MP, formulated to fight hair loss. Spain-based Derypol showcased Himosap GAX 132, a thickening
agent that does not contain paraffin, Laureth 7 or surfactant ingredients. Himosap GAX 132 exhibits stability in various pH levels and in preparations with salts. It enables formulation of transparent gels. Japan-based Shimizu Chemical Corp showcased hydrocolloidal polymers including purified glucomannan. Rheolex, offered in powder form, is a polymer of natural polysaccharides largely derived from konjac tubers. Use of the ingredient results in a formulation with exceptional emulsifying ability associated with its oil adsorption capacity. Rheolex has robust thickening properties, and is used to make especially high (non-gelified) viscosities in aqueous media by dissolution. In macro-sphericized form is Propol ISLB, which is based on 100% botanical glucomannan. The ingredient functions as a mild exfoliant with a purifying action. Jeen International introduced Jeesilc PS, a new line of silicone dispersions that delivers a powdery texture, and enhances the conditioning action of haircare and skincare products. These patented, non-reticulated linear polymers also boost the spreadability, texture, refraction index and general integrity of the film in cosmetic preparations. The plant-derived Sylvaclear polyamides from US company Arizona Chemical find application as gelling agents in various types of oil phases or water-glycol mixtures. The line comprises different grades with diverse chemical compositions including tertiary amide-terminated polyamides (ATPA), ester-terminated polyester-amides (ETPEA), polyether polyamides (PEPA) and polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides (PAOPA). Obtained from a botanical fatty acid dimer, the ingredients deliver transparency, gloss, consistency, long-lasting hold, softness, water resistance and emollient action to a variety of toiletries and cosmetic formulations. Sylvaclear A 2614V is well-suited for use in lipsticks and balms or the A200 grade for clear or translucent formulas. A 2614V is ideal for toiletry products such as shower gels in oily phases and WF1500V for aqueous formulas. Parfums, Cosmetiques Actualites, Apr/May 2008, (200), 108,128,132,141-142,144,146,147-148
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ASSOCIATED PRODUCTS New antimicrobials, rheology modifiers and other launches from In-Cosmetics 2008 The In-Cosmetics 2008 show in Amsterdam saw the launch of many functional ingredients for personal care products. Rohm and Haas added Neolone CapG, a blend of methylisothiazolinone and caprylyl glycol, to its Neolone line of actives. Neolone CapG delivers robust antimicrobial properties, providing an alternative to parabens and formaldehyde in rinse and cosmetic care formulations. Surfatech launched its Spider Esters line of polar ester
JULY 2008
O N
S U R FAC TA N T S
spheres, claimed to be outstanding solubilizers for antioxidants, vitamins, peptides and sunscreen formulations, among others. With a spider web-like structure, Spider Esters comprise a hydrophilic body with hydrosoluble ‘paws’ and lipophilic ‘feet.’ Tinovis CD is a new cationic rheology modifying acrylic polymer from Ciba that can be used in body care and haircare formulations, including styling products and conditioners. This multifunctional ingredient provides targeted conditioning action, and facilitates the styling of wet or dry hair with no residues. Ciba also introduced Tinovis ADE, an anionic rheology modifier that enhances the sensory quality of a formulation. It is effective even at small concentrations, and finds application in standard emulsions as a polymeric emulsifier to control viscosity and stability. Tinovis ADE is ideal for use in body care, scrubs, moisturizers, lotions, rich creams and after-sun products. Inolex launched its new conditioning polymer Keazyne. A polyester 11, Keazyne provides emollient properties and the glossy look of esters combined with the cationic function of amine. This hydrophobic polyesteramine delivers outstanding conditioning action, suitable for application in anti-tangle cream rinses, styling creams or emulsions and anhydrous preparations. A new line of made-tomeasure actives from Seppic has been formulated to address the needs of scalps and hair exposed to various environmental strains. A sugar derivative, Aquaxyl rebalances moisture flows and rebuilds the hair shafts. Aquaxyl boosts the sensory properties of the foam in foaming products, and soothes the irritating effects of some surfactants. These purifying and dermoprotective ingredients, with antibacterial and antifungal properties, work on different levels of scalp irritation. Seppic’s new products include Sepicap MP for thermo-active protection; Lipoacide C8G and Lipoacide UG, formulated to address dandruff problems and for oily hair; and Thermoactive Sepicap MP, formulated to fight hair loss. Spain-based Derypol showcased Himosap GAX 132, a thickening
agent that does not contain paraffin, Laureth 7 or surfactant ingredients. Himosap GAX 132 exhibits stability in various pH levels and in preparations with salts. It enables formulation of transparent gels. Japan-based Shimizu Chemical Corp showcased hydrocolloidal polymers including purified glucomannan. Rheolex, offered in powder form, is a polymer of natural polysaccharides largely derived from konjac tubers. Use of the ingredient results in a formulation with exceptional emulsifying ability associated with its oil adsorption capacity. Rheolex has robust thickening properties, and is used to make especially high (non-gelified) viscosities in aqueous media by dissolution. In macro-sphericized form is Propol ISLB, which is based on 100% botanical glucomannan. The ingredient functions as a mild exfoliant with a purifying action. Jeen International introduced Jeesilc PS, a new line of silicone dispersions that delivers a powdery texture, and enhances the conditioning action of haircare and skincare products. These patented, non-reticulated linear polymers also boost the spreadability, texture, refraction index and general integrity of the film in cosmetic preparations. The plant-derived Sylvaclear polyamides from US company Arizona Chemical find application as gelling agents in various types of oil phases or water-glycol mixtures. The line comprises different grades with diverse chemical compositions including tertiary amide-terminated polyamides (ATPA), ester-terminated polyester-amides (ETPEA), polyether polyamides (PEPA) and polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides (PAOPA). Obtained from a botanical fatty acid dimer, the ingredients deliver transparency, gloss, consistency, long-lasting hold, softness, water resistance and emollient action to a variety of toiletries and cosmetic formulations. Sylvaclear A 2614V is well-suited for use in lipsticks and balms or the A200 grade for clear or translucent formulas. A 2614V is ideal for toiletry products such as shower gels in oily phases and WF1500V for aqueous formulas. Parfums, Cosmetiques Actualites, Apr/May 2008, (200), 108,128,132,141-142,144,146,147-148
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