New model into how nonionic surfactants alter cleanser solution properties to create skin compatible cleansersrs

New model into how nonionic surfactants alter cleanser solution properties to create skin compatible cleansersrs

P1609 P1611 Clinical improvements in skin barrier properties with topical application of formulations containing natural southernwood Dara Miller, J...

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P1609

P1611

Clinical improvements in skin barrier properties with topical application of formulations containing natural southernwood Dara Miller, Johnson and Johnson Consumer Companies, Skillman, NJ, United States; Judith Nebus, Johnson and Johnson Consumer Companies, Skillman, NJ, United States; Warren Wallo, MS, Johnson and Johnson Consumer Companies, Skillman, NJ, United States

Evaluation of the pituitaryeadrenal axis function in patients on topical steroid therapy Miryam Kerner, MD, Haemek Medical Center, Afula, Israel; Avraham Ishay, MD, Haemek Medical Center, Afula, Israel; Dganit Rozenman, MD, Haemek Medical Center, Afula, Israel; Michael Ziv, MD, Haemek Medical Center, Afula, Israel; Rafael Luboshitzky, MD, Haemek Medical Center, Afula, Israel

Skin is under constant stress, both from external factors, such as the sun and other sources of free radicals, and from the progression of time and the intrinsic aging process. These factors can lead to weakened skin barrier properties, including visible signs of stressed skin on the face, such as roughness, dullness, and fine lines, and fragile, aged-looking skin on the body. Fortification and improvement of the skin’s moisture barrier properties is essential to restoring skin’s healthy appearance and to reducing visible damage caused by multiple skin stressors. Preclinical and in vitro data have shown the potential of a natural Southernwood extract to fortify and strengthen skin’s barrier. Two clinical studies were performed to assess the effectiveness of formulations containing a natural Southernwood extract in improving visible signs of stressed, weakened skin, and in restoring healthier, younger looking skin. In the first study, 30 healthy female subjects between the ages of 25 and 39 with visible signs of stressed skin including roughness, fine lines, lack of clarity, and uneven tone completed a 4-week study involving daily application of a facial moisturizer with Southernwood extract. Clinical evaluations indicated significant improvements (P \.05) in tactile roughness, visual dryness, and flaking by week 1, and significant improvements (P \.05) in fine lines, skin clarity, pigmentation, and skin tone by week 4. These improvements were maintained through a 2-day noproduct regression time point. Patients also perceived significant (P \ .05) improvements in the comfort and look of their skin, and digital photographs confirmed these improvements. In the second study, healthy female subjects between the ages of 30 and 60 with moderately dry, fragile skin completed a 2week study involving the twice daily application of a body moisturizer and hand cream with Southernwood extract to the lower legs. Clinical evaluations revealed significant (P \ .05) improvements in skin dryness, roughness, and flaking, and instrumental measurements of transepidermal water loss and skin hydration revealed improvements in the skin’s moisture barrier. In conclusion, these studies showed that formulations with Southernwood extract were effective in fortifying and restoring the healthy appearance of visibly stressed, weakened skin and provide dermatologists with the evidence-based clinical support for topical usage of this new natural ingredient.

Topical corticosteroids can be absorbed percutaneously and cause adrenocortical insufficiency because of the suppression of the hypothalamic pituitaryeadrenal axis. We evaluated the pituitaryeadrenal axis reserve by the intravenous 1-g adrenocoticotropic hormone (ACTH) test in patients on topical steroids. Fifty patients with dermatologic disorders were treated with topical steroids. Fasting serum cortisol levels were measured at baseline and 30 and 60 minutes after intravenous injection of the drug, and results compared to those from 50 controls. Compared to controls, patients had lower basal cortisol levels; lower cortisol levels in response to ACTH at 30 minutes; and lower cortisol area under the curve (AUC). The findings show that topical steroids induced profound suppression of the adrenocortical axis function. Withdrawing the drug puts patients at risk for acute adrenal insufficiency. Commercial support: None identified.

Commercial support: 100% sponsored by Johnson and Johnson Consumer Companies.

P1610 Cleansers with hydrophobically modified polymers demonstrate improved mildness and skin barrier integrity Neena Tierney, PhD, Johnson and Johnson Consumer and Personal Products Worldwide, Skillman, NJ, United States; Donzel Johnson, Johnson and Johnson Consumer and Personal Products Worldwide, Skillman, NJ, United States; Katharine Martin, Johnson and Johnson Consumer and Personal Products Worldwide, Skillman, NJ, United States; Lisa Gandolfi, PhD, Johnson and Johnson Consumer and Personal Products Worldwide, Skillman, NJ, United States; Russel Walters, PhD, Johnson and Johnson Consumer and Personal Products Worldwide, Skillman, NJ, United States Cleansing of the skin is necessary to maintain good hygiene, and surfactants within cleanser formulations are useful to solubilize and remove dirt, oil, and other unwanted substances from the skin surface. However, the interaction of surfactants with components of the stratum corneum can also cause deleterious effects, which can lead to erythema, dryness, skin barrier impairment, and sensorial irritation. It has been shown that low molecular weight hydrophobically-modified polymers (HMPs) are effective at associating surfactants related to the strong propensity for aggregation of the surfactant hydrophobic tail groups with the hydrophobic domains of the HMP. The resulting cleansing system, composed of a lower concentration of free surfactant micelles and polymer-surfactant complexes, have been shown to be less aggressive. In this work, surfactant-based cleansing systems containing HMPs were prepared and a series of in vitro tests and patch testing studies on human subjects were conducted to assess the effects of HMP containing cleansers on skin. In vitro studies were conducted using a skin equivalent model to evaluate the skin irritation potential of diluted cleansing systems. We observed a significant reduction in skin irritation related to cleanser exposure as measured via the inflammatory cytokine IL-1a, when comparing cleansers formulated with HMPs in combination with surfactants compared to surfactants alone. In addition, surfactant penetration into the stratum corneum was measured on human subjects after a 4-hour exposure of diluted cleansing solutions under an occlusive patch. After patch removal, consecutive tape strips were taken, and levels of surfactant were measured via colorimetric detection on each tape. HMP-containing cleansers were shown to have decreased levels of surfactant penetration into the stratum corneum, which was highly correlated to the amount of polymer-surfactant complexes within the system. Patch testing of HMP containing cleansers on human subjects with a history of atopy were also conducted. These studies showed an improved skin condition, including a significant decrease in barrier impairment as measured via transepidermal water loss after exposure to a diluted solution of HMP containing cleansers in comparison to cleansers without HMPs. These results show that cleansers with HMPs are beneficial in reducing irritation and surfactant penetration and preserving skin barrier integrity. Commercial support: 100% sponsored by Johnson and Johnson Consumer and Personal Products Worldwide.

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J AM ACAD DERMATOL

P1612 New model into how nonionic surfactants alter cleanser solution properties to create skin compatible cleansersrs Russel Walters, PhD, Johnson and Johnson Consumer and Personal Products Worldwide, Skillman, NJ, United States; Emmanuel Anim-Danso, Johnson and Johnson Consumer and Personal Products Worldwide, Skillman, NJ, United States; Lisa Gandolfi, PhD, Johnson and Johnson Consumer and Personal Products Worldwide, Skillman, NJ, United States; Michael Fevola, PhD, Johnson and Johnson Consumer and Personal Products Worldwide, Skillman, NJ, United States; Neena Tierney, PhD, Johnson and Johnson Consumer and Personal Products Worldwide, Skillman, NJ, United States Over the past 50 years, nonionic surfactants have long been used to create more skin compatible cleansers. Although nonionic surfactants, particularly ethoxylated nonionics such as PEG-80 sorbitan laurate have long been used commercially to the great benefit of patients with sensitive skin, in this study we elicit details of how these surfactants render a cleanser milder. Polyethylene glycol (PEG) is well known as a biocompatible polymer that can be used to modifiy surfaces to create ‘‘stealthy’’ bioinert materials. Here we explore how these nonionic surfactants alter the solution properties of surfactants, which leads to improved skin compatibility of cleansers. Dynamic light scattering is used to quantify the micelle size of different surfactant systems. Compared to anionic surfactants, the micelle size increases in these mixed anionic/nonionic micelles. The rate of surfactant arriving at the air/water interface is studied with dynamic surface tensiometry, which shows that these mixed micelles including ethoxylated nonionic surfactant have slower surfactant dynamics. Surfactants that have slower dynamics—that is, that move more slowly to the air/water interface—also move more slowly to the skin/water interface and are therefore less aggressive to the skin. In two in vitro measures, the addition of nonionic surfactant is shown to improve surfactant mildness. Fluorescence dye leakage across a monolayer of epithelial cells shows improved mildness (less disruption, and subsequent dye leakage, of the tight junctions between cell) with the addition of the nonionic surfactant. In addition, in a skin equivalent model, we observed a significant reduction in skin irritation related to cleanser exposure as measured via inflammatory cytokines such as IL-1a with the addition of the nonionic surfactant. We also observe corresponding clinical benefits of cleansers designed with these nonionic surfactants. In vivo patch testing of cleansers containing nonionic surfactants on adults with a history of atopy resulted in an improved skin condition. Finally, incorporating our learnings and other recent studies, we have developed a model of the arrangement of surfactant molecules in the micelle of these mixed nonionic/anionic surfactant systems that helps to explain the skin compatibility benefit imparted by these nonionic surfactants. Commercial support: Sponsored by Johnson and Johnson Consumer and Personal Products Worldwide.

FEBRUARY 2011